The SB LEDs come all connected -- how does one separate them into individual light strips?  Just snap them?  Cut them?
Thanks for helping.

Hello.  First time poster (had to say that).

So I have 14 quads that all use ELRS so I'm vaguley familiar with how it all works. But, last night I was troubleshooting a new build in Betaflight and could not get the transmitter to work (moving sticks and seeing the bars move in BF).  Everything was set correctly from Ports to CRSF etc.  So I decided that after hours of pulling my hair out trying different things and soldering the RX to various UARTs, that I would remove it and plug in a BetaFPV Flat ELRS I had laying around.  It instantly worked first time.

Great, but here's the question.  My BetaFPV RX has DIY 3.0.1 FW on it from factory, and my transmitter is a Radiomaster TX16S running 3.2.0 ELRS.  HOW IS IT THAT THE  3.2.0 TRANSMITTER IS ABLE TO TALK TO THE 3.0.1 RX?  I thought this wasn't possible.

Hi all,

In order to use VTX Administrator feature in Expresslrs 3.0, do i need to solder smartaudio wire between vtx and fc?

Thanks.

Hey yall how are you doing I currently have a Nazgûl 5 analog 6s yeah I’m trying to convert to Digital using my Caddex vista and I would like to be able to keep my dji controller and goggles . As I was using that on the Nazgûl 5 hd digital version. So if some can tell me we’re I need to wire up my Vista as well help me walk through the process of updating it in Betaflight.

For quite a long time now I have used the GNB 520mAh and 650mAh 1S on many of my 75ish sized quads (even brushed ones) when fast garden and house cruising in Angle to get better duration. Oddly, the 650 is actually significantly smaller than the 520 and very similarly proportioned to the 450.

For those immediately about to comment on weight, here's a comparison on my collection of 1S cells, several weighed and amount averaged:-

GNB  650mAh               14.2g
GNB  520mAh               12.8g
GNB  450mAh               12.6g
GNB  300mAh               10.8g   (Note:-  comparable 17mm wide cell, not the narrow "Indy" stick sized)
EMax 450mAh              12.5g
NanoTech 550mAh       15.7g

Now, I would argue that at worst, a extra 3.5g on a powerful brushless 75 unless out and out racing isn't a punative amount, especially when considering the extra current drain of a HD video system being added. Certainly seems to make no adverse difference to my use of fast criusing around, or the "almost pointless" freestyle ability that ducted quads are capable of anyway.

Hovever, having experienced the basic stupidity and fragility of the Happymodel Moblite7 frame design, and taking note of the wide comments "on't net" that the BetaFPV Meteor 75 frame was very good, I ordered direct from BetaFPV. 

On arrival to my surprise I found that the 650 mAh GNB would not fit. Hadn't even considered that!

I'd bought three frames, different colours, and they are all the same, so not an isolated case.  Does look a better designed and made object though!

For your interest, here's some of my 75 capable cell 1S/2S quad collection and their battery cage fit for the 650mAh GNB, yes, or no.

Tiny (LDARC) 7                  Yes
Tiny (LDARC) 8                  Yes
Inductrix FPVPlus+             Yes    (Note: vertical mount keeping ducts completely clear, AFAIK the only one of that design)
Trashcan                            Yes
Mobula 7                            Yes
Moblite 7                            Yes
Moblite 7 (with E010 cage) Yes

Meteor 75                          No

Oh, OK! 

I have not listed those that have strap fixing like the TinyHawk Freestyle and TinyHawk Race in the table since they accomodate a far bigger range of sizes single or paired for 2S. And  they are not ducted............  

Its not terminal in the sense that the Meteor 75 cage looks plenty robust enough for the lower two cross bands to be centre split and then they will expand to still hold the cell well, but thought it might be of interest.

And for additional interest, the Meteor 75 frame and the Moblite7 bare frame are the same weight, 5.5g

Went and bought a 1.5mm hex key and finally adjusted my DJI FPV controller 2 left gimbal so it doesn't return to center and holds its position.

I already have like 70 hours in sims with the controller behaving as it did on day 1, but instantly this feels better not having no resistance to throttle

Hey out there; I'm having some issues getting my FC to receive input data from my receiver. I've got the receiver wired according to the FC manual, I've checked all of the connections, and I've tried two different receivers (one off of a fixed wing that I had just been flying so it should be good) and both bind and send back telemetry to the radio.
I've pretty much boiled it down to it being an IO setup issue, but I don't know how to read the dump to figure that out.

Here's the rundown on parts:
FC: HGLRC Zeus5 - Manual
Receiver: Crossfire nano rx (not the pro)
Radio: Tango 2 pro v3

This should be wired according to the manual and I continuity tested that the two pads R2 and RC to ensure that they are jumped.
(Sorry, best image I could get with my phone)


The wiring should match the output map configuration as I set it up in the radio.


I attached the dump as a text file; let me know if there is anything else I need to post up for information.

Attached Files

  cli_dump.txt (Size: 25.17 KB / Downloads: 40)

Hi, I have questions about the antennas on the O3 air unit. I have generally a poor understanding of antenna technology, and I can't seem to find good information on the internet.

I see that the O3 antenna is a dual band, dual polarized antenna. On the antenna, I also see that there are two I-PEX connectors coming out of the single antenna housing. I'm guessing there are two physical antennas housed in the little bulb at the end.

General questions -
>What are the two bands in the "dual band"? Is one band 2.4ghz, and another 5.8ghz?
>I'm assuming 2.4ghz is the radio and 5.8ghz is the video, right?
>Does antenna 0 correspond to 2.4ghz and antenna 1 correspond to 5.8ghz? Or is there some other shenanigans going on where a single antenna can do both?
>If a single antenna can be dual-polarized, why do they even make LHCP or RHCP antennas? Or is antenna 0 LHCP and antenna 1 RHCP?
>If the DJI antenna is dual-polarized, does that mean it can be replaced with either a RHCP or LHCP antenna? Or do I need another dual-polarized antenna? Or would I just get one LHCP and one RHCP?

Questions more pressing for me:
>My Cinebot30 had a I-PEX extension wire in place approximately 30mm in length from each I-PEX lead. Somehow the cable pulled out of one of the I-PEX connectors. I pulled off the heat shrink and soldered the coax together. Will this even work?
>If one of my antennas doesn't work, will the other one fill in? I.e., are they in a 'diversity'-style configuration?
>I have heard that radio antennas should not be cut or extended. Does the cut/extension limitation only apply to radio antennas, and not VTX antennas? I was a little surprised to see that it came with an extension from the factory.
>Can I slap on any old VTX antenna onto this thing, assuming I get an I-PEX or an appropriate adapter? What about polarization and dual band?

I know that's a lot, but I can't seem to quite figure this out and there is very little information out there that makes sense to me. Thank you! I am using an ELRS Tx and Rx so I do not need the DJI radio link, if that makes a difference.

Hello, I'm tkahou from China.
I have been enjoying building fpv drones and open-source drone systems for the past 3 years.
Glad to join this community, say hi to all!

never touched silverware befor, a buddy had two betafpv 1-2s silverware aios, he wasnt able to get them working

took them to the bench, that beginner explore feeling xD

first recognized difference was the osd overlay. it does overlay befor the cam signal and not after like on common flightcontrollers. tbought it doesnt work, after attaching a cam - all was there :-) 

opentx work to settup channels. the vtx channel is switchable with a switch - feels s like 100times to get back on the channel xD 
an arm switch, a flyghtmode switch, a turtle switch and one for vtx channels - i disabled the vtx switch :-)
it feels all i need is there :-)

rotor directions? props in or out? i just went for props out as first try, switched two cables in the motorconnector and it flew :-) it flew well by defaults.
a few wired things, startuppower seems to low, it happened that it didnt start spinning.
osd jittering on the ground and some fails or sort of unsuccsessfull reboot. power it again did solve it than.



than i went into the osd settings and wasnt able to switch from "starter" to "advance" which allow to settup pids, vtx, rates, rotor and motordirections....  seems nice, i didnt research more.

went for the second board which had many unsuccsessfull trys, all worked so far. there was faults by the voltage readout, accurate when power but later sometimes displays 2,6v or 5,6v, it was accurate or complerly wrong, never between. something doesnt work. i thought about a capacitator than to compensate some noise.

than the second maiden, some lineofside rolls and flips, nice!

i went again to the osd settings and after a few trys, holding for more than a second swithed from starter to advanced. i opened the config menu and saw all the options until it started to act wired.
it started to change the rates by itself, i tried to controll by the sticks but i couldnt. - it went to the tx settings and choosed "d16" by itself. it choosed "d16" by itself! can ypu believe that? thats a kick in the ... no fc ever did such thing to me or is it the receiver? anyway it was so strange, i builded so many quads in my live, a beginner would cry, but in my case i had to laughter and it seems it stays funny, comes to my worst case storys but with a smile without getting angry about. 

soldered an xm plus to it, but couldnt get it to work with the bound receiver. 



anyway after first work to get the first fc in the air it started to get simple, everything needed seems to be there. the flightperformance by defaults gave stilm a good feel, i was able to curve precise, very promising!
i hope when i try to enter advance configs on that board it wont shut down the rc link xD but i guess this wont, hopefully