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| DALPROP Quality |
| Posted by: Carl.Vegas - Today, 03:48 AM - Forum: Beginner Questions - Replies (4) |
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Much has changed since my last post in the microquad section. I've hit a significant milestone in my practice in liftoff (it turns out there really is a turning point in having control!) and now have 2 quads on order (china is too slow... I needed to get something to supplement the toy)...
I decided to go with a Vortex: the UmmaGawd version. As a noob of course I am required to be obsessed with rotor riot videos and as a liftoff player I must be completely sold on immersionRC products... (yes I am brainwashed, but I recognized that it happened and I am enough of an old fogey to not care)...
The thing is, while it ships with props everything I see that no one sticks with the 4 blade purple people eaters...
Anybody use Dalprops... are they as durable as the reviews suggest or have I just ran into websites that are fluffing the reviews?
| Killing VTXs |
| Posted by: Ringo - Yesterday, 04:21 PM - Forum: Beginner Questions - Replies (6) |
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So I'm very new to this hobby but am loving it. I just built a new mini quad (Armattan Chameleon) with an Omnibus F4 Pro FC, Armattant PDB V3, FrSky XSR, and originally a TBS Unify Pro VTX.
After my first couple of flights my VTX would only give me video if I was pointing straight at it and within a couple feet. I thought I messed up the UFL connector so I had a spare unify pro I swapped for. Same issue happened. I ensured I powered it via a 5V pin as I had to bridge RAM to VCC for full 4S to camera as camera wouldn't produce an image (Omnibus was putting out 4.43V when bridging RAM to 5V so I had to use 4S.)
Because the unify pro only supports 5V I used a spare 5V on the board. The board is rated to supply 5V 3A.
After the second unify pro stopped working I swapped it out for my Aomway 200mW VTX. To use the Aomway I had to solder leads to the RAM pin to get full 4S as it needs at least 7V.
The Aomway worked for quite a while. I actually don't know if it died from a wreck or not where I noticed too late that the SMA male tip broke off. Maybe it over heated without that small piece, but it stopped transmitting altogether. I tried a new antenna on it and confirmed it is done.
The one thing that concerns me, and why I came here to you all and tell this to ...is maybe it's back current from active braking from the ESCs? I was running it pretty hard to see how it performed. I did some 5-10 second punch outs. In blackbox I notice during those punch outs that it couldn't record anything (just missing data for those blocks.)
Any thoughts? How do I keep from eating up VTXs? (I'm also worried that maybe the Omnibus BEC cannot handle the active braking ...and I have Lipo positive lead going into Omnibus FIRST in order to use the FC's onboard current sensor.)
Thanks in advance!
| Very bad experience with BangGood! |
| Posted by: molitar - Yesterday, 09:59 AM - Forum: General Multirotors Talk - Replies (9) |
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So purchase over $230 for my FPV gear from them. I get a BAT QX105 that has a motor mount that is loose fitting causing the motor to come halfway out of the mount and flip it over. It causes two of the props to fall off and trying to put them on again they are too loose and fall off as I found out in mid flight. I contact Banggood and explain the situation!
They said to do anything I have to take pictures of the problem? I reply back so you want me to purposely damage the drone more by putting back on the two loose props and removing the tape that is holding the motor in so I can film it while the motor pops out and 2 rotors fall off causing even more damage to the drone?
There reply is what I would call bogus.
Quote:Dear Marvin ,
Thanks for your Email.We are sorry about all the inconvenience.without an evidence that it is difficult to provide after sales help.Hope you understanding.
I really do not understand how a company can treat there customers like this especially for such a low value item as 2 props that will cost them what maybe a buck! That was all I was asking for I had already ordered extra mounts and propellers but why should I have to replace defective ones. If this is the type of customer support I may have to look elsewhere as a buyer.
| Eachine Wizard twitches in air |
| Posted by: checcles - 02-26-2017, 11:36 PM - Forum: Beginner Questions - No Replies |
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Eachine Wizard running the most up to date Betaflight and Dshot150, and ESC's with up to date firmware with this problem when I fly:
I've tried changing the props, I've made sure everything is tightened down properly, I'm just stumped. Flysky i6x, sbus.
| FT48X VTX Issues? |
| Posted by: jimohalloran - 02-26-2017, 07:23 AM - Forum: FPV Gear - Replies (2) |
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Has anyone had experiance with the FT48X video transmitter? I've had three die in quick succession.
One was working on the bench, then I noticed sometime later it had died (no lights when powered up, the LCD display does not light up, no video signal). I'd only hovered the quad in my backyard a couple of times to make sure everything was working.
The other two both flew a couple of 3S flights (maidening two brand new builds), then flew a pack on 4S and died on landing. When I touched down (not super smooth, but not a crash by any means), the video turned to snow, and there's no lights , etc on the VTX again.
Bit unhappy that all three expired after less than 20 minutes flight time. Has anyone had experience with these VTXs? Is this a common problem? The VTX is wired direct to the PDB, no capacitor, is that a problem? Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks!
| XSR gets REALLY hot |
| Posted by: jamesw - 02-26-2017, 05:10 AM - Forum: Radio Transmitter and Receiver - Replies (7) |
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I just picked up a brand new Flip32 Omnibus F3 and a brand new XSR.
Having only used a D4R-II and PPM before, it was relatively easy to set this up....although I noticed as I was messing around that it was getting incredibly hot. So hot I couldn't hold the XSR in my hand.
Now I'm pretty sure this is because I have the Lipo going full power to the FC. It can handle that. But apparently the XSR can't?
If I plug in the Lipo, that's when the heat happens (and at least one time led to the XSR rebooting itself after a few minutes) but if I plug in only via USB, the XSR powers on and gets warm, but not incredibly hot.
Anyone know how I can use the full Lipo power but not overpower the XSR?