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  My favorite part of this hobby
Posted by: Carl.Vegas - 11 hours ago - Forum: Off Topic - Replies (6)

(scroll down for TL/DR)

When I started being interested in quads, long before I bought my first $12 USB controller the idea of a hobby where folks constantly deal with crashes and repairs and building etc was daunting. I knew then but brushed off the idea that it could literally become one of those full-time hobbies.. You know the kind where you might have other hobbies but if they aren't related to your full time hobby they'll probably suffer from procrastination from time to time. The last hobby I had like that was cars and racing but it fell out of interest for me for a couple of various reasons (one of them being my race car is kapoot). 

What I didn't expect is for it to be one of the most intellectually challenging hobbies I've ever had (Almost equal to music production and sound engineering). The first few lessons I had to learned pissed me off. I mean I was like "dude, what did I get myself into"... I cannot tell you how upset I was that my fatshark goggles didn't come with a charger  ROFL I was almost ready to send them a nasty email to tell them what-for. By the time I was actually flying I was grateful that I already had my balance charger even if I have been itching for an upgrade lately but I'll stick with the B6AC for now. 

Learning to fly a quad that isn't doing the work for you... when part of what everyone is like "ooh and aaah" about quads these days is how they do everything... they fly on their own, they follow you around, if you push a button it'll safely navigate it's way back home... but we dont fly quads that do any of that... Instead ours are designed to go to an angle and stay there until told otherwise. Don't even get me started on the 2 week journey through blog posts, videos, forum threads to understand what PIDs actually do!

Now here I am getting ready to learn to build, and while I would say my flying skills are working their way to a low-moderate skill level I get to be a complete noob again when it comes to building... In fact I've already done 3 or 4 things wrong and I haven't even got my parts yet! (I'm thinking about going with different ESCs and maybe even a different flight controller)... 

the point or TL/DR for those of you who didn't read above but want to know what I am going on about so that you can participate:
I got into this hobby thinking it would require a normal amount of learning. Instead I have been blown away with how much I constantly get to learn as I progress and improve in the hobby. 

Question to everyone else... What's you're favorite part?

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  Swift 2
Posted by: PaulMek - Yesterday, 11:06 PM - Forum: Runcam - No Replies

Installed a Swift 2 on one of my quads and its AWESOME!  Video quality feels twice as good. Thanks guys!

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  FPV Radio Questions
Posted by: jwcalvert - Yesterday, 09:28 PM - Forum: Beginner Questions - Replies (4)

Two further questions if I may.

1)  Does it harm the receiver or transmitter if I power it on and have not screwed in any antennas.
Will it overheat etc.?
 
2)  My goggles have a mushroom antenna and a panel antenna, if I cover the mushroom antenna with a large chunk of tin foil to temporarily negate its power, will the unit be harmed?
I am trying to gauge the effectiveness of the panel antenna.

Thanks

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  Panel Antenna Direction
Posted by: jwcalvert - Yesterday, 09:21 PM - Forum: Beginner Questions - Replies (5)

With my FPV goggles, I got two antennae:  a mushroom antenna and a flat square one.
 
The flat square one is referred to in the goggle’s literature as a panel  ( not patch ) antenna.
There is virtually NO writing or label on either side.
BUT there is a faint outline of four small squares with what appears to be wiring between each square and the main pole.
The opposite side is just plain flat material.
 
So the question is :  which side is the active side which I point toward the vehicle?
 
I cannot find an answer anywhere on the web.
I do realize that it is very directional in the “facing” direction with little or no signal on the edges.

Thanks

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  Let's speed things up :)
Posted by: matejfpv - Yesterday, 08:44 PM - Forum: Videos - Replies (1)

I've been trying to speed things up and combine some moves together, what do you think how I did it? Smile

[url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAFzHdhOhqw&feature=youtu.be]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAFzHdhOhqw&feature=youtu.be
[/url]

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  Diy quadcopter
Posted by: Maddy K - Yesterday, 10:22 AM - Forum: Beginner Questions - Replies (5)

1. Brushless Motor (4 pcs)
2. Electronic Speed Controller (Abbreviation: ESC, 4 pcs. Common brands have Hobbywing, Tatttu, Little Bee T-motor etc.)
3. Propeller (4 pcs)
4. Flight controller (The common brands have KK, FF,ADUINO Open pilot etc.)
5. Battery
6. Remote control
7. Flying Platform (Not a choice)
8. Charger (Try to choose balance charger)
Right? Huh Huh Huh Huh

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  Quick 1-wire ESC Flashing Harness
Posted by: Aaron - Yesterday, 06:50 AM - Forum: Tutorials, Hacks and How-to - No Replies

Since my experience with EMAX ESCs and the "BLHeli" install on them I have a policy on my workbench that says every ESC when it arrives gets connected to something and flashed.  Basically they couldn't be flashed once on the built quad requiring them to be removed, flashed and the quad reassembled again!  The EMAX supplied firmware certainly didn't provide a good flying experience, once I had a normal BLHeli flashed on the quad became flyable and I was able to enjoy a new hobby.

The last batch of Multistar ESCs I bought the USB programming adapter to do the initial flash, but most ESCs don't need that special hardware and instead can be flashed via your Flight-controller OR via and Arduino.

Oscar has a great tutorial on that process on his blog. -- > https://oscarliang.com/esc-1-wire-bootlo...li-simonk/

This tutorial is to take you through a bit of a parts-bin scurry to show how I've made a very simple harness to do 1-wire flashing of new ESCs on the bench.  It removes the hassle of having built a new craft with ESCs all tucked away only to then struggle with bench flashing the ESCs - instead get them flashed when they arrive - you'll be able to do a basic determination of whether they even work!


My ESC's of the moment are DYS 16a Mini's I bought for AUD2.63 each from Hobbyking (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/dys-blheli-1...-2-4s.html)

They use 1mm pin-headers but could easily have the headers desoldered and be direct wired into any build. 

   

I'm going to make a cable that will let me use my XT60 to JST adapter that I had previously put togther to do bench testing of my brushless gimbal and other JST equipped gear.  It's a AUD5 switched JST  cable with an XT60 on one end

   

When I made that cable I actually cut off the JST socket to fit the XT60 so I'll reuse the JST socket for this adapter.  I've also hustled up out of the scrap pile a length of 3-wire Servo lead with plug, and a length of opto ESC cable with plug.

So then I've joined it all together and covered the joins with heatshrink:

         

The ESC "end" isn't going back into the connector shell as the pitch doesn't quite fit.  In fact I've had to use pliers to squash these down a little to get a good mechanical fit on the DYS ESCs.   Instead they are covered with heatshrink.

       

At this point I need to remind you that the power feed is LIPO voltage and you should actually attach whatever connector suits your ESCs - 2mm  bullets for example.  Ofcourse you could also direct solder the wires quickly to your ESC or use your imagination and try test-lead clips or similar if you have some laying about.

         

At the other end you can see the JST plug and the single wire to plug onto the Arduino.  I've also put some Dual-wall (adhesive lined) heatshink of the main join area to protect the wire joints and give the whole thing more of a harness feel.

Total cost was AUD0.00 becuase I keept all my off-cuts and connector ends and have a lot of heatshrink and stuff on-hand.  The XT60 and JST lead would be about $5 if you order one from Banggood and extra JSTs are about $1.

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  PID values: same quad, different FC
Posted by: yelrx8 - 24-Apr-2017, 08:14 PM - Forum: Tuning Clinic - Replies (5)

Question:
Can PID values interchange between different FC's tuned on the same quad?

I'm building a new mini-quad on a PixRacer (arducopter) and it is nearly identical to another one I previously built and tuned with a mini Revolution (dRonin). The frame is the superlight Diatone Blade 180.
The revo dronin build is 'Autotuned' and flies great with near zero effort. I'm kind of spoiled because I have no experience manually tuning PID's. Thus I want to just transfer the values over to the new pixracer arducopter build. If anything, just for a good starting point.
btw, arducopter's autotune is very intense, long duration requiring more than one full charge batt, large space, and is said not to work well with mini-quads. dRonin's autotune is a 75-sec process and I've done quite a few new quad tunes, up to 280mm in my living room.

Does PID values have some inherant dependancies like gyro/sampling rates, making them not interchangable? Another thought I have may be, the PID's can be transferable in similar flight stacks architecture in the same family (dRonin is from same TauLabs/OpenPilot/LibrePilot/cleanFlight/etc), but may not be compatiable with dramatically different flight stacks (like arducopter/px4/etc).

Comments?

Thanks,
yelrx8

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  Turnigy Evolution
Posted by: scottiedonedidit - 24-Apr-2017, 07:38 PM - Forum: Radio Transmitter and Receiver - Replies (1)

Does anyone know if the turnigy evolution works with anything other than the TGY-iA6C or the Flysky FS-A8S?  I don't care for the TGY because the antenna seem to break off easily without a simple fix...

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  KINGKONG TINY7 - 75mm whoop
Posted by: Tom BD Bad - 24-Apr-2017, 05:46 PM - Forum: Brushed Micro Quad - Replies (2)

Thanks to Sandra and BangGood for offering this item in return for a writing a pre release article.

Coming soon, to the airspace in a room near you... (If you live near me that is!)
The KINGKONG TINY7!

Purchase from BangGood here -
https://goo.gl/pk5nOJ

The Tiny7 is the newest in quite a long line of brushed micro FPV quadcopters but I don't think its going to stay at the back of the line for long. There are a lot of tinywhoop's around, from guys who modded the original 'inductrix,' those later who added FPV to the Eachine E010 and others who went all out with the carbon fiber and aluminium upgraded chassis from RakonHeli. All these micro-quads used small 6x15mm brushed motors to drive them, this is where the KINGKONG TINY7 differs from the rest...

Yes it 'looks' like just another one of those tinywhoop's, but on paper at least, there isn't the least bit 'whoops' about it! Look closely and you will see the chassis is 1cm larger than 'your average whoop' but that allows for larger 7x20mm motors to drive more torque hungry, 40mm tri-blade props. If your still looking closely you can see that the props look pretty aggressive, with a high angle of attack, almost like a brushless whoop.

The camera on board the Tiny7 has more than the usual 600 TVL boasted by most older tinywhoop's, more even than the 700 TVL 110° FOV on the Eachine wizard X220 which is 3 times the size! No less than an 800TVL and 150° FOV camera feed being transmitted through a 25mW 16 channel VTX.

On the RX side of things, the Tiny7 has the following options -
Receiver:
AC800(Frsky D8R, Frsky:X9D X9E X12S)
FM800(Futaba Fasst)
FS PPM(Flysky FS-RX2A : FS -I6, FS-I6X, FS-I6S,
FS-TM8, FS-TM10, FS-I10)
DSM2(DSM2)

The KINGKONG TINY7 is quite heavy at 44 grams, all up weight, compared to the 26g advertised by the 'E010s' stats. The 75mm chassis has additional support over and above the original form factor of the inductrix frame, with additional cross supports between the prop shrouds. The added resilience may well be necessary if the 720 motors are able to propel those 44 grams as quickly as I hope. Remember that 12 of those 44 grams are the battery though, and while we are on the subject...

The batteries are 1s 500mAh with a 30c discharge rate, (photographed with 'PeakPower' battery) even smaller Whoop's prefer a larger (~45c) discharge rate than this so I hope there is enough punch to deal with its heft...? I have confidence that KINGKONG know how to make good props to take full advantage of the bigger 720 motors though.

This hardware has all been backed up by an SP Racing F3 brushed FC running betaflight 3.0.1.

Edit to add : it also comes in 4 cool colours with matching props, if you get the advanced version you get all 4 different colour canopies and 16 props (4 sets in 4 colours) as well as 5 batteries and a 5 port charger.

I have to say I am really looking forward to getting this in the air..!

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