can i print a 5mm thick cup to put my ospray ariel inside as i keep cracking the outer cover on them in my local bando.. will doing this cut down on connection to the vista neb pro ?
hello all, i have two quads using the caddx vista nebular pro and dji goggles 2 in the uk.. what is the procedure to unlock the fcc mode ? do i need to do anything with the vista or is it all done in the goggles 2 sd card. i also fly another quad with the dji 03 unit on my goggles 2, do i need to do anything on the 03 hope you can help thanks steve..
hello all users of the caddx vista, runcam link air unit lite. this help thread is in line with my new 5in LR build thread. on the get go, i installed the caddx polar using the stock antenna. goggles and air unit are both rooted and running max 1200mw. my goggles have iflight crystal patch and stubbies. i suppose everything’s set to do LR. BUT someone here already forewarned that stock antenna that came with the polar bundle sucks! i still did a range test since i have nothing on hand to replace it.
true enough i lost goggle video feed on one of the flights at only 1.5kms away. it froze then went into a pixelated mess. fortunately gps rescue saved the day. i did succeeding flights around this distance and i monitored goggles HD signal health indicator closely. it diminishes from 4 to 3 bars then turns into RED and suddenly you get frozen image that either recovers or worse stays frozen like what happened above. i discontinued distance testing after the poor observations.
a far cry from my other caddx vista with iflight albatross antenna which easily covers 2kms from my initial range tests. it also turned RED a few times but only momentarily. AND it never lost video feed at all. so for testing purposes i took the better antenna and slapped it on the 5in LR to continue range testing.
i see the caddx vista is rated at 4kms max range on paper. what must be done to the system in order to accomplish this? can other users validate this conducted with actual flights? if so, what vtx antenna are you using?
I want to bind my Transis x9 Lite S with the XM+ and since my x9 Lite S has the ISRM_N v.1.1.3 LBT/EU i need the same 1.1.3 firmware version 1.1.3 EU for the XM+. I hope someone can help
I recently decided to get into Fpv wings after flying quadcopters for years. I picked up a Baby AR wing pro as it seemed a nice starting point size-wise. It's maiden went very well and all was well. A couple of flights (and bad landings) later, one of the elevons began to break off at the foam hinges. I don't have much experience with this EPP foam material, but I definitely knew when I was building it that those foam hinges were going to be a weak point. After some research online most solutions pointed towards some special kind of tape or hinges made from glue. None of these options enticed me as I wanted something confidently strong and something that did not look like a botched job either. As a temporary measure I simply hot-glued the fracture in the foam and continued on (pictures below). As strong as it was, it broke again from an unfortunate crash, and the repair rendered the hinges to be quite stiff, and not able to throw about half as much. Devastated about my new wing, and replacement parts being non-existent for this model, I had to do some thinking. Previously I had 3D printed a small wing model that relied on fully 3D printed elevons and hinges. So what I'm wondering is should I cut off the elevons and replace the foam hinges with a very thin slit of 3D printed plastic that would slit into the elevon and wing, or just 3D print some elevons with these slits attached and do something similar. Has anyone any experience with this type of repair job or any suggestions? TIA
Hey guys, i plugged in my Fc into Betaflight Config and while sitting flat on the table the 3d Model "heading" angle slowly ticks up. Its round about 1 deg every 1 sec. Is my FC damaged or can I do something about it? Thanks for any advice.
Posted by: Red_ran - 25-Mar-2024, 02:30 AM - Forum: Electronics - No Replies
Hey everyone, wondering if I could get some input from people who have more electrical know-how ...
I was looking at this document which has the pin out for TBS fusion. Wondering if it would be possible, using a Raspberry Pi Pico, to wire some panel buttons to a header to change channels on the Fusion, instead of using the joystick? Or better yet, is there someway of wiring up something to replace the joystick completely? For context I'm working on a DIY FPV display, here is the shell so you have some idea of what I'm hoping to accomplish (receiver module will go into the side)
I finally bought a set of these 360° Propeller Guards for my Mini 2 and I'm really glad I did.
This quad has basically been sitting for the past 3 years with maybe 15 flights on it. I would fly it up high, get some great shots, but nothing like flying FPV freestyle or racing.
But now, with the guards on, I can cruise around the yard, the block, up/down the street, without fear of bumping into something and destroying props or hurting someone.
This will be cool for sight seeing at the parks now, early morning or early evening when people aren't there.
It's kinda difficult flying in 'angle mode' all of the time, and I miss the actual camera rolling and pitching that happens along with non-camera quads. The gimbal works to conceal what the quad is doing most of the time, so flying nice lines is really a challenge. There's also higher latency too. The guards add weight, of course, and make it more susceptible to wind. Still, I can get 15min flights per battery.
But now this quad is getting some air-time I already got a half-dozen practice flights in this weekend
This is my first build. Everything appears to be working well...except I think the antennas are too long and floppy, and will get chopped by the propeller. My thoughts are:
1) Bend them downward and secure them that way with a pin through the printed tail piece. If I did this, it would never actually sit flat, always pitched forward with stress on them. 2) Somehow put something in place to force them to always be straight out with little to no bending.
Hey guys. First post here. Hope the is ok to post here.
I’ve been flying for about three months now. I have a Nazgûl V3 with upgraded 03 air unit. I had a gnarly crash the other day after hitting a power line. It broke an arm and a motor. I replaced the motor with a stick Xing-Epro 2207 1800kv motor to match the others. I also upgraded from a Zorro to a Boxer. When I take off now, it flies perfect for about 15 seconds, at which point it does a death roll always to the left and crashes. I thought it was based off % of throttle but it always seems to happy right at 15 seconds.
Trouble shooting - 1. Reflashed to known working version in betaflight 2. Check every solder and connection. 3. Added cap back that had come off during crash 4. Removed LEDs I had put on 5. Flashed different PID settings 6. Checked over betaflight for any odd settings 7. Used my zorro to verify it’s not the radio
I’m at a loss. Any suggestions would be amazing. Thanks in advanced guys!!