I have no experience with the C03 camera but many folks like the Caddx Ant nano. I have a bunch myself and the "lite" version weighs in at 1.7 grams, .25 grams heavier than the C03 but may look better for about 10 to 15 seconds less flight time but does not have screw holes for mounting.

The biggest thing I learned in the last few years trying to make a small whoop with good flight time is "every gram matters" especially on a 65mm whoop. Yours is the pro version which actually has 35mm props where the standard 65mm whoop has 31mm props.

I have pretty much given up on 65mm whoops as it is almost impossible to get more than three minutes of flight time without major weight reduction (Moblite6 as an example). 

Batteries also make a big difference in smaller whoops. As you increase the mAh, you also increase the weight and on this small of a quad, you will  gain a little more flight time with a larger battery but it is usually more sluggish and you eventually get less flight time because of the extra weight.

Here is a link to Joshua Bardwell's comparison of batteries. 
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1...1469545087

I just ordered some "1S folded cell" batteries as they out perform standard 1S batteries.

(20-Apr-2024, 04:21 AM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: - If you have 4 screws in each motor remove two from each.  You can use thread lock to stop the remaining two falling out. 

These motors only have 3 screws.  I just ordered some "PEEK Micro Flat Head Whoop Motor Screws" which are super light. I was curious so I weighed 12 of the steel motor screws and they come to about half a gram. I might be able to save about a quarter of a gram for a lot of money...
I should have weighed the screws before ordering and saved some money.

(20-Apr-2024, 04:29 AM)brettbrandon Wrote: I have no experience with the C03 camera but many folks like the Caddx Ant nano. I have a bunch myself and the "lite" version weighs in at 1.7 grams, .25 grams heavier than the C03 but may look better for about 10 to 15 seconds less flight time but does not have screw holes for mounting.

The biggest thing I learned in the last few years trying to make a small whoop with good flight time is "every gram matters" especially on a 65mm whoop. Yours is the pro version which actually has 35mm props where the standard 65mm whoop has 31mm props.

I have pretty much given up on 65mm whoops as it is almost impossible to get more than three minutes of flight time without major weight reduction (Moblite6 as an example). 

Batteries also make a big difference in smaller whoops. As you increase the mAh, you also increase the weight and on this small of a quad, you will  gain a little more flight time with a larger battery but it is usually more sluggish and you eventually get less flight time because of the extra weight.

Here is a link to Joshua Bardwell's comparison of batteries. 
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1...1469545087

I just ordered some "1S folded cell" batteries as they out perform standard 1S batteries.

Yes, I am learning that lesson. Every fraction of a gram counts. I actually have an Ant I pulled from my Mobula 8. It does have wires soldered directly to the camera and the plug is too big for the VTX on the Meteor65. So I will live with the CO3. It is really not that bad. Just a bit more fuzzy. Not as bad as the Foxeer Razor Nano I tried. Plus the Foxeer is pretty heavy also. 

After changing back to the CO3 camera I am now getting 3 1/2 minutes of flight time. It is really an improvement considering I was getting barely 3 minutes before.

I also find that when I increase capacity the weight goes up and it makes a difference with these tiny quads.

I have been watching videos about batteries. The Tattu 300 are supposed to be the Z folded cells and supposed to be the best. I guess they are not that bad. The ones I thought were bad are behaving now. I think it was because I didn't realize a little bit of weight made that much difference in flight time.

I also order a few different brand batteries to try. No more larger capacity. They are all 300 mah.

(20-Apr-2024, 04:35 AM)Brettbrandon Wrote: These motors only have 3 screws. 

Sorry half asleep. Considering I have several sets of those motors and others. You of course can't really remove any screws.

The expensive screws that save a quarter of a gram are the point where you realise you might be going way too far.

One possibility would be to go up to HM EX1002 20000kv with a 75% output limit (but they might go to 80%) to keep the amp draw under 5A.  The upside is you would go from producing 120g of thrust (@100%) to producing around 200g of thrust, which even when you remove the extra weight from it, may create a much longer flight time, given the need for less throttle.  But the size of the props will still limit things. Nix that idea.



More thrust, for a max of 4.5A and they are massively more efficient than the BetaFPV 0802.

(20-Apr-2024, 04:59 AM)Pathfinder07 Wrote: The expensive screws that save a quarter of a gram are the point where you realise you might be going way too far.

That's when you realize that this is an addiction.....

(20-Apr-2024, 04:38 AM)SeismicCWave Wrote: Yes, I am learning that lesson. Every fraction of a gram counts. I actually have an Ant I pulled from my Mobula 8. It does have wires soldered directly to the camera and the plug is too big for the VTX on the Meteor65. So I will live with the CO3. It is really not that bad. Just a bit more fuzzy. Not as bad as the Foxeer Razor Nano I tried. Plus the Foxeer is pretty heavy also. 

After changing back to the CO3 camera I am now getting 3 1/2 minutes of flight time. It is really an improvement considering I was getting barely 3 minutes before.

I also find that when I increase capacity the weight goes up and it makes a difference with these tiny quads.

I have been watching videos about batteries. The Tattu 300 are supposed to be the Z folded cells and supposed to be the best. I guess they are not that bad. The ones I thought were bad are behaving now. I think it was because I didn't realize a little bit of weight made that much difference in flight time.

I also order a few different brand batteries to try. No more larger capacity. They are all 300 mah.

It seems that the NewBeeDrone 300mAh batteries pretty much out perform most all the batteries out there. They are pretty much the first choice of racers but they don't come with a BT2.0 connector which is what I think you have.. This video is what made me order some...

(20-Apr-2024, 05:25 AM)brettbrandon Wrote: It seems that the NewBeeDrone 300mAh batteries pretty much out perform most all the batteries out there. They are pretty much the first choice of racers but they don't come with a BT2.0 connector which is what I think you have.. This video is what made me order some...

Yeah, I don't have any adapter for them yet so I didn't order any. I just checked. I have an order coming from NBD. There are some CHNL packs but not the Nectar ones. I should put an order in for some just in case.

(20-Apr-2024, 06:05 AM)SeismicCWave Wrote: Yeah, I don't have any adapter for them yet so I didn't order any. I just checked. I have an order coming from NBD. There are some CHNL packs but not the Nectar ones. I should put an order in for some just in case.

weBLEEDfpv does have 300mAh folded cell batteries with a BT 2.0 connector, but unfortunately do not have stock right now...
https://webleedfpv.com/collections/batte...-batteries

Unfortunately NewBeeDrone does not make their batteries with BT2.0 connectors.

(20-Apr-2024, 06:46 AM)brettbrandon Wrote: weBLEEDdrone does have 300mAh folded cell batteries with a BT 2.0 connector, but unfortunately do not have stock right now...
https://webleedfpv.com/collections/batte...-batteries

Unfortunately NewBeeDrone does not make their batteries with BT2.0 connectors.

I just ordered some Nectar gold and A30 connectors. I already have male and female PH2 plugs so I can make my own adapter. The A30 battery side will plug right into the BT2.0 on the quad side.

(20-Apr-2024, 01:56 AM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: mstc, if you put 9V through the V3, does it run any cooler due to consuming less mA?

Power is the key here, which is volts x amps, so assuming it draws the same power, more or less current should not make a difference on heat production (as long as the wires are of sufficient gauge). But because the VTX has to regulate the voltage to the level where the chips can use it (I am guessing 3v range) then the efficiency of the regulators comes into play. Typically regulators will be less efficient bringing 9v down to 3v, then say from 5v to 3.3v. And in fact we see that on the 1S VTX. Lee did some testing where he compared the power draw at different voltages, and it drew quite a bit less power at the lower voltage. But this was done on the older v2 board which had a much smaller range 3.1-5v. I did some rough testing on the v3 board and seem to recall at 13v the power draw was actually only slightly more than at 5v, but probably should rerun the test. The problem is I believe the VTX will only go to true max power (500mw) when the reception is bad, so one would actually need to shield the goggles or put them far away to get that mode to kick in on the bench.

So 5V is probably still the magic number. I also didn't realise output power couldn't be forced.

Lots of batteries. I went overboard buying batteries. 

Also testing out a light weight canopy. I had to add a spacer in the back to angle the camera down. Otherwise I was just looking at the ceiling the whole flight. I don't fly it fast so no sense having the camera pointing that high up.

Yes, color (colour) does not match yet. I have more canopies coming in different colors.

Hi SeismicCWave,

Looks good. Hey, what is in a color anyway as long as it flies.

I am interested in seeing a build with that toothpick frame in the background.


Later, iFly  

(21-Apr-2024, 09:52 AM)iFly4rotors Wrote: Hi SeismicCWave,

Looks good. Hey, what is in a color anyway as long as it flies.

I am interested in seeing a build with that toothpick frame in the background.


Later, iFly  

LOL, yeah. I cannot see the color of the canopy from the camera anyway.

I am collecting parts to build that AOS 3" tooth pick in the background. I am still deciding on what FPV system to use. I have the Walksnail 1S system and various components for an analog system. I don't have an analog VTX with 25.5mm hole spacing though. They are all 20mm spacing. I have motors and another flight controller on the way.

That canopy is sweet. Must buy some of them myself. They would suit some of my bigger builds just as easily as the smaller ones.