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3 inch build list
#1
Been reading up, and was wondering if everything here seems right, or if I’m missing something.

Frame
https://m.banggood.com/VX145-145mm-Wheel...92676.html

Motors

https://m.banggood.com/4-X-Racerstar-Rac...20744.html

Fc/esc

https://m.banggood.com/20x20mm-HAKRC-Min...46529.html

Camera

https://m.banggood.com/it/Eachine-VTX03-...14206.html

https://m.banggood.com/it/Orange-1200TVL...50403.html

Buzzer/led

https://m.banggood.com/Matek-LED-Tail-li...04158.html

Rx

https://m.banggood.com/818CH-Mini-Receiv...83313.html

And this on top

https://m.banggood.com/Hawkeye-Firefly-1...mds=search


Hope to start slowly accumulating parts and getting this set up. Would still need props obviously.

Everything seem not too crappy?
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#2
It looks like you have everything needed to get airborne.  This should be a good budget build and parts are available to replace things as they wear out or break.

What are you powering this with?  I would steer clear of the ZOP and XFPower type packs as they are very heavy.  I have purchased them in the past and found that it is better to not try to save money on the batteries.  My favorite packs for my Japalura are the Lumenier 700mah Graphene 4S.  They weigh in at about 80g.  In comparison, the XFPower 850mah 4S packs weigh in at over 115g.  For the extra weight, there is no extra flight time and the Lumenier's fly the same duration without LV alarms despite being 150mah less.
SoCal Kaity :D
OMG, no one told me it would be this much fun!  Addicted :)
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  • Jakefpv
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#3
Your FPV camera is a likely too big. They recommended a micro camera.

No experience with the HD camera.

The way the buzzer led is designed, I don't know how you are planning to mount it to the frame. The other issue, there is no dimensions to the frame, the led likely is too big.

How are you going to mount vtx? Maybe consider a VTX that mounts to stack if you have enough room.
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#4
(07-May-2018, 04:24 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: Your FPV camera is a likely too big. They recommended a micro camera.

No experience with the HD camera.

The way the buzzer led is designed, I don't know how you are planning to mount it to the frame. The other issue, there is no dimensions to the frame, the led likely is too big.

How are you going to mount vtx? Maybe consider a VTX that mounts to stack if you have enough room.

I’m not sold on that frame, tbh, I just liked the top camera mount.
As far as buzzer/led I was planning to mount on the very back, with the led pointing straight back
I saw a few stacks that included a vtx, but was trying to keep everything around this price or lower.
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#5
(07-May-2018, 01:26 PM)kaitylynn Wrote: It looks like you have everything needed to get airborne.  This should be a good budget build and parts are available to replace things as they wear out or break.

What are you powering this with?  I would steer clear of the ZOP and XFPower type packs as they are very heavy.  I have purchased them in the past and found that it is better to not try to save money on the batteries.  My favorite packs for my Japalura are the Lumenier 700mah Graphene 4S.  They weigh in at about 80g.  In comparison, the XFPower 850mah 4S packs weigh in at over 115g.  For the extra weight, there is no extra flight time and the Lumenier's fly the same duration without LV alarms despite being 150mah less.

Batteries are whatbim absolutely not goIng to skip out on.
I ordered a bunch of batteries from bg to try on my mantis 85, one of which is a zop. It’s gsrbage.
Going to have to tweak this, smaller camera, and perhaps a stack that includes the vtx.
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#6
If you're in the US, try to buy from a US based shop like GetFPV. Ships faster, better service/support, and helps keep our guys in business. I've made two returns at GetFPV, one was my fault, they were super accommodating. I buy from RaceDayQuads a lot too. And FPVdirect.com is a few towns over from me, hook them up!
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#7
Better fc/vtx combo ?
https://m.banggood.com/LDARCKingkong-20x...43028.html

Also looking at this frame
https://m.banggood.com/IFlight-Vertigo-V...78855.html
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#8
The new FC/VTX might be better, considering this will be a tight build.

I like your first frame better. Vertical arm and motor mount is one more thing to go wrong.

The Matek LED you linked needs standoff and nothing else around it to mount. You first frame has side CF that will get in the way of mounting the LED. Unless you fly in low light LOS, I would not bother with LED. Just get a simple 5V active buzzer or use ESC beeper.
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#9
You could do an Airblade Eclair build. I have a 2.5" that i like. They provide a nice recipe of suitable parts:
https://www.airbladeuav.com/collections/...-frame-kit
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#10
(07-May-2018, 06:41 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: The new FC/VTX might be better, considering this will be a tight build.

I like your first frame better. Vertical arm and motor mount is one more thing to go wrong.

The Matek LED you linked needs standoff and nothing else around it to mount. You first frame has side CF that will get in the way of mounting the LED. Unless you fly in low light LOS, I would not bother with LED. Just get a simple 5V active buzzer or use ESC beeper.

I also like that frame better however no full measurements about it, though I am seeing pictures on the page with 3 high stacks.
There is a bnf that uses this frame, it’s about the same price point, however doing it this way I can have a better fc, potential 4s (is there any reason to run 4s on such. Tiny build?) and better motors than what comes stock, for still the same price point. I’ll probably go with that first frame just because I can run a mini hd cam cube on the top with limited effort.
I suppose I can go without the leds, that were strictly for looks tbh, noticed you can change led settings on BF, but I’ll skip those, at least for now.
Still unsure how to setup the esc as a buzzer I’ll watch some YouTube vids tonight on it (finally got WiFi at home!!)

Thanks for all the responses guys, not going to start this immediately but instead get a component or two every paycheck and slowly get it going, starting with the frame this week.

What I’m at now

Frame
https://m.banggood.com/VX145-145mm-Wheel...92676.html

Motors
https://m.banggood.com/4-X-Racerstar-Rac...20744.html
(I don’t want to cheap out too hard on these,but the frame fits several sized motors, is there a different size or brand I could go with, or would I be best off with these?)

Fc/vtx/esc
https://m.banggood.com/LDARCKingkong-20x...43028.html
(This seemed like the best choice for budget build that had 20a for 4s if I decided to ever be crazy and slap those on here)

Rx
https://m.banggood.com/818CH-Mini-Receiv...83313.html

Camera
Still not sure, want something small and on the cheaper side. May use one of my 2 q90c cams but would need to mount it somehow


Puts the build at just under 150(not including cameras)
Should be fun once I get all the details squared away and obtained!
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#11
(07-May-2018, 06:50 PM)txbdan Wrote: You could do an Airblade Eclair build. I have a 2.5" that i like. They provide a nice recipe of suitable parts:
https://www.airbladeuav.com/collections/...-frame-kit

I was looking at that but honestly wanted a frame that seemed a bit more boxy if that makes sense. Should be better for holding larger batteries, a little more room to work in, and room to upgrade parts if I chose to do so. That a good alternative frame though if I decide against the one I’m looking at now
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#12
To make esc buzzer, you will need Dshot capability ESCs with the latest blheli firmware.

Goto CLI
set beeper_dshot_beacon_tone = #
# equal 0-5. 1-5 will give you an ESC tone. 0 turns esc tone off.
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#13
(07-May-2018, 09:35 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: To make esc buzzer, you will need Dshot capability ESCs with the latest blheli firmware.

Goto CLI
set beeper_dshot_beacon_tone = #
# equal 0-5. 1-5 will give you an ESC tone. 0 turns esc tone off.
Ok cool, going to try to flash my mantis up to newest firmware for whatever I can, and will have to do this when the scratch build gets done. May sell my q90c and use the cash to get this build done quicker because I’m excited haha

I believe the esc in the stacki have is dshot capable, of not I’ll get something else and jus skip the buzzer..
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#14
You can still have regular buzzer. I just wire along the lipo pigtail and tape the buzzer to the lipo wires like I did in the Frankenstein build. Works great and you don't even need to bother finding a place for it.
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