The Ronin-MK1 ONE is build #12 and is intended to be a sub 250 gram Long Range quad. This is my first build using one of The.Ronin's frames. I am excited to get the craft together and in the air
NOTE: Misc parts, bolts, connectors, fabricated plates, columns, wire, etc. will NOT be included.
____________ PARTS LIST ____________ {will update as needed until build is complete}
18-May-2021, 01:42 AM (This post was last modified: 12-Jun-2021, 02:51 PM by iFly4rotors.)
//////////////////////This Post will be the Build Process/////////////////////////
Build is now complete: 2021-06-01.
2021-05-20
Ok, all of the components have been located and the FC has been backed up and has my initial configuration settings. Yeah, I do this first thing; right out of the box; before ANYTHING is connected.
As expected from others, the holes are a little "tight". The 2mm holes seem to be, maybe, just barely 2mm; no problem, I just drilled them out with my standard 2.38mm {that is 3/32 inch} bit as I have done on 2mm holes in the past. This slight over boring provides just enough slack for adjustment during the assembly. I have never experienced any adverse issues using this bore size. I tighten them bolts down real good.
To my surprise, the arm bolts still did not go through. I measured the bolts which measure 2.47mm which is likely within normal tolerances for an M2.5 bolt. so I drilled the holes in the arms with a 2.5mm bit {NO over boring for these holes}. Now, the bolts fit perfectly and go in smoothly.
Yeah, I drilled out every hole that I will be using; M2 bolts got 2.38mm hole, M2.5 got 2.5mm hole. Now, ALL is good.
I have also added a piece of RF/EMF shielding tape to the underside of the top frame plate. I will not be using the extra "X" brace. I give Ronin a thumbs up for using the press nuts. Consequently, the "X" brace can be easily added or removed from the bottom without the need to manage nuts on the top.
I will also be using some extra nylon standoffs to get the GPS unit a little above the top deck. Plus, one to support the VTX antenna. Otherwise, this build should go together pretty much by the book. }
The frame with camera weighs only 41.9 grams{less camera, that makes the frame weigh 37.6 grams with hardware}. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________
2021-05-24 {Update}
Well, today, I got the Ronin-MK1 ONE assembled.
The Ronin-MK1 frame was very nice to build with; it is spacious, solid, and everything has a place to mount and holes to mount with. I especially like the design of the top plate with the sides having the swoops which will help keep the battery straps separated. Although some of the holes were a little tight, I would rather have them that way than too loose. They really don't need much; just a "hair". Physically, everything went together quite well with plenty of room for the extra wire that I always allow. The big 1000 uf capacitor fits nicely behind the FC. I cut a piece of slightly curved plastic from an old square bottle and just shrink wrapped the GPS to it. The antennas got my standard "Hot Glue and heat shrink tubing" treatment. All antennas are angles back about 20-30 degrees {yeah, I am not that precise}. When in flight the GPS will be about level and the others vertical. I routed the XT30 towards the back to keep well clear of the props. I decided to direct solder the motors, but did not cut the wires; instead I just "folded" and taped them to the arms. I am quite pleased with how this build has turned out.
First, there was an issue with the GPS. Fortunately, it was just an oversight on my part. I neglected to turn on the GPS in the Betaflight configuration tab OK, got that fixed, seems to work just fine.
The Total Dry Weight is 144.2 grams. Well it is a little over my estimate of 120-130 grams, but that is ok. I never really figure out the exact weight of the hardware. First, I never really know what I will use and I will use what I need so I am not skimping on hardware. On the plus side, it is about 20 or so grams lighter than most of my other 4 inch builds.
In preparing for a flight and checking the video...NOOOO....just snow...No Video, No OSD...Just snow. Since there is no OSD info and screen is not just black, my guess is that it is either the VTX or the FC. But I am done for today.
Pictures added...well that fills up the picture allotment for this post. Additional pictures will be in the following post.
24-May-2021, 10:23 PM (This post was last modified: 27-Jul-2023, 01:01 PM by iFly4rotors.)
2021-05-24 No video; just static, No OSD info, just static on all channels.
2021-05-25
First thing, charge up a GNB 3S 1100 mAh battery and try it. Wow, we have video. But wait, after a few minutes the video goes to static. Unplug and try again. Each time I would get video for a few seconds and then static. After about 4 tries, no video...just static. This might be a heat related issue with the VTX, but I have never experience this behavior.
Also, the RC link was working, but now it is not working. Confusing. Time to pop the hood, check things out, and start swapping out components. Grrrrr
2021-05-26
After sleeping on it, I have made a decision. 1) dismantle the quad, 2) put connectors on the motors, 3) put all the Flywoo electronics in a box {will deal with that later},4) use a different VTX, maybe Zeus, and 5) use a HIFIONRC F7 AIO.
Yeah, this is why I use connectors. When something doesn't go right or something needs changed, it is a lot easier to just unplug, replace, and plug it in. Everything unplugged except the motors which I just cut off at the FC. The motors will have connectors when this gets put back together. Besides, if I want to try different motors later, the swap will be easy.
At this point, I have removed all components from the frame except the motors. Now, here we go...
2021-06-01 {Update} Rebuild Complete
I did replace the camera cage with aluminum camera braces {that I just happen to have in the parts bin} which made working with the camera easier for me since I use a 14mm micro size camera. The required spacers were easier to get in with these braces. It is interesting that the aluminum cam braces are actually a little lighter than the original cam cage.
Also, notice that I have installed a thin plastic shield between the bottom frame and the FC in order to provide electrical isolation.
The GPS is connected with 2 connectors; one connector for the RX-TX signals, the other for the power which is routed outside the frame to provide access for powering the GPS with an external batter at a new location to get a satellite fix before powering up the quad. Also, the GPS is attached to a piece of clear plastic with heat shrink tubing and mounted 20mm above the top deck.
I have used a HIFIONRC F7 AIO 45A flight controller board and a Panda VT5804_AIR VTX.
The FC was wired with connectors for everything while on the bench. Power was applied with a smoke stopper to ensure that there were no shorts in the system. The VTX was connected, the system powered up, and tested. The system powers up ok and the VTX works fine. Next, the Rx receiver was connected and tested; OK here, too. The electronics package was then mounted onto the frame and the motors were tested. All appears to be OK...close it up and tie up the wires.
Completely assembled, the new dry weight is 149.6 grams; just enough to run a 2S 18650 pack and keep under 250 grams {I think}. However, I really don't intend to run 18650s on this build, but you never know. I have just barely 100 grams to work with for a power source. I will likely run my standard GNB 3S 1100 mAh battery most of the time.
The hover test was successful. Even though I kept the altitude to about 3 feet, he was very stable and easy to control.
25-May-2021, 03:08 AM (This post was last modified: 25-May-2021, 03:11 AM by iFly4rotors.)
(25-May-2021, 02:23 AM)the.ronin Wrote: A post.
[lol sorry couldn't resist]
Hi Ronin,
I like having the first few posts
I guess I could delete one of them but I am keeping one for the Video Issue...and more pictures.
I like building with the Ronin-MK1 frame. It has the features that I like. I am very pleased with how well everything went together. I like those little holes at the rear of the plates; nice if you need to zip tie something. I also like the way it looks. You have done an EXCELLENT job with the this venture.
This frame is better than the Katana frame which I have always liked.
Now, I just need to get that d*mn video diagnosed. Since, I used connectors, I can swap out the VTX and see if that is the issue.
The rebuild is complete, see Post #3, and everything works fine. Over, the dry weight has increased from 144.2 grams to 149.6 grams which is fine as I didn't try to build a super light craft. However, I can still run a 2S 18650 pack and be just barely below 250 grams AUW.
Hey Ronin, sorry man...I swapped out the cam cage for aluminum cam braces which made it easier for me to get the camera spacers in there since I am using a 14mm micro cam, the Foxeer Razor Nano 1200 TVL. This is an excellent analog camera for the $ 18.00. Nothing fancy, just a good quality little camera.
The hover test went splendidly. The craft was extremely stable and easy to control even though I kept the altitude to about 3 feet since I was inside the house. Now, I need to get him out and get a maiden flight completed.
01-Jun-2021, 05:16 PM (This post was last modified: 01-Jun-2021, 05:17 PM by the.ronin.)
Whhhaattt?? You dare blaspheme the hallowed frame of the Ronin?? LOL that's awesome man. Really, I originally wanted to to go alu cam cage. In fact the original Project Seppuku was designed with that in mind. Going 3d alu milling on the production turned out to be a bit more involved and a lot more costly than sticking to 2d cf cutting. You really need to be producing in very large quantities for it to make sense. But it is something I have been exploring and talking (read: haggling like a mother effer lol) to potential sources in China for the MK2 line but that's pretty far out in the future.
Dude, I keep missing your posts because you are editing already posted posts. Sorry about that man. WOW!!!!!!!!! That thing is sick dude. That alu cam cage install is looking very clean man. The entire build is looking super clean. I do think the clinch nuts isolation plate might be much but if it weighs nothing, hey why not.
(01-Jun-2021, 05:16 PM)the.ronin Wrote: Whhhaattt?? You dare blaspheme the hallowed frame of the Ronin?? LOL that's awesome man. Really, I originally wanted to to go alu cam cage. In fact the original Project Seppuku was designed with that in mind. Going 3d alu milling on the production turned out to be a bit more involved and a lot more costly than sticking to 2d cf cutting. You really need to be producing in very large quantities for it to make sense. But it is something I have been exploring and talking (read: haggling like a mother effer lol) to potential sources in China for the MK2 line but that's pretty far out in the future.
Dude, I keep missing your posts because you are editing already posted posts. Sorry about that man. WOW!!!!!!!!! That thing is sick dude. That alu cam cage install is looking very clean man. The entire build is looking super clean. I do think the clinch nuts isolation plate might be much but if it weighs nothing, hey why not.
Dude that's a sick build.
Hi Ronin,
First, the camera cage. I was really trying to use it, but I was having trouble getting the camera spacers in while mounting it. I just happen to have the aluminum camera braces in the parts bin {I think they are parts for a GEPRC Cine-"something"}. They swivel on the mount bolt so I was able to position the spacer on the tiny little bolt and then swivel it to the camera. I does, however, sit back a bit and allows the prop tips to be in view which doesn't really bother me {but they have some adjustment, I will work on it}. For the next one, I will get a bigger camera so I can use your cam cage. I wouldn't change your cam cage. I have also used the Armattan Tadpole cam braces which I do like, but they are smaller.
Yeah, I like to have the build specs and the original build in the first two posts and update them until the original build is complete. That way it is all together and anyone viewing the thread can see the whole build in the first two (or three) posts. Plus, you can only attach 10 pictures to a post so that gives me more space for pictures. In the future, I will add a new post indicating an update.
Thanks for the complement on the build; much appreciated.
<<<< NOW for the FUN >>>>
I have just returned from taking the Ronin-MK1 ONE on the maiden flight. SWEET !! It was a very GOOD first flight. The craft handled quite well and was easy to fly; the response to control felt good to me.... and this all on the default factory tune. In my haste, I neglected to set up the OSD so all I had was battery, RSSI, and Fly Time.
Being fitted with my standard GNB 3S 1100 mAh battery, the Fly Time was 15:33 minutes.
Now, there has been absolutely NO battery calibration so, I am very pleased and excited.
Wait whats wrong with the alu cage? If its 20mm tall, it should be all good. I don't think I follow. I'd just hate for you not to use it it looks so damn good man lol.
02-Jun-2021, 01:18 AM (This post was last modified: 02-Jun-2021, 01:19 AM by Kevin2112.)
Very cool looking build Harry! I forgot to take into account for something on my 7” build…complete set of new much bigger batteries. I thought I could just use my 6S 1250’s. No bueno….they are to small for the 2810’s. This unknown mistake will cost an additional many hundreds! I think the next build will be going with a smaller kwad!
(02-Jun-2021, 12:23 AM)the.ronin Wrote: Wait whats wrong with the alu cage? If its 20mm tall, it should be all good. I don't think I follow. I'd just hate for you not to use it it looks so damn good man lol.
15 MINUTES???? LOLOLOL dude that is crazy.
Hi Ronin,
Yeah, I was excited to get over 15 minutes on the Maiden Flight...I haven't even calibrated the battery yet. I really like this build...it is just SWEET to fly. It compares favorably with the Katana builds except the Ronin-MK1 ONE is getting better Fly Times right out of the gate.
Nothing is wrong with the aluminum cam brace, which, by the way is from a GEPRC Rocket. Yeah, it is nice that you can buy individual spare parts for a lot of quad frames. I buy parts that I like the looks of and think that I can use. The aluminum braces mount like columns so they swivel on the mount bolt. Since I needed to use spacers for the camera, I was having trouble holding and get everything together with the CF mounts since they "lock" into the frame plates and are secured by the lateral standoff columns. There is nothing wrong with the CF braces, I just didn't have a camera to fit them property....that is just me... I typically use 14mm cams. However, if I ever get a Tarsier, it will be a different story. On my next order, I will add a 19mm cam so I can use your CF cam cage.
(02-Jun-2021, 01:18 AM)Kevin2112 Wrote: Very cool looking build Harry! I forgot to take into account for something on my 7” build…complete set of new much bigger batteries. I thought I could just use my 6S 1250’s. No bueno….they are to small for the 2810’s. This unknown mistake will cost an additional many hundreds! I think the next build will be going with a smaller kwad!
Hi Kevin,
Thanks, Man. Here is the real deal...it FLIES really well. I was impressed by the Maiden Flight with NO tune, No calibration...just assemble and go. If things continue to get better, I might even shorten some wires and remove the motor connectors which will drop 8-9 grams right off the top.
Well you know, big motors need big power. I have two 7 inch builds to complete, but then I will likely be back to 4 inch. I will take into account your experience and use decent size batteries with the 7 inchers. The largest motor that I have is 2306 for one of them. Yeah, being eccentric, I have a set of smaller motors for the other one...who says they won't work...never know till you try. I play outside the box and have pushed a lot of motor/prop combinations that were not on the "recommended" list...but I have a theory...will see how it goes.
Nice build. I liked that everything has a connector, and even multiple connectors for some components. I'm always for a modular build. Out of curiosity, what is the connector you used for the motors?
I currently have MR30 and MT30, but haven't decided to use them yet, as I'll test first with a direct solder before considering changing to a connector.
05-Jun-2021, 01:42 PM (This post was last modified: 05-Jun-2021, 02:17 PM by iFly4rotors.)
Hi m3sgal,
I have used connectors since my very first build, the Phantom-X which was also slated as an experimental craft that I intended to swap components for testing. The connectors make swaps easier. Although they do add some weight, it is worth it to me and does not adversely affect the performance. What I end up with is a quad that is easily maintainable with the ability to swap some components {particularly the Rx receiver} without dismantling the quad.
The connectors for the smaller components are JST 1.25 2-pin, 3-pin, and 4-pin depending on the component and my intent.
For the motor wires, I use 2 different connectors depending on the motor size. For motors smaller than 1404, I often use a JST 1.25 3-pin connector {this is the size that whoop boards have for motor connectors - plug and play}. For larger motors that are on this build {and shown in the wired up FC pic}, I use standard 3 wire servo connectors which come pre-wired. I normally buy the "extension" type since they come with both a male and female connector. I cut off each connector with the length of wire that I need. {the connectors can also be purchased in kits if you desire to build your own} The nice thing about these connectors is that they are NOT keyed and can be reversed which allows changing the motor direction quickly without the need to use software.
There are two methods of changing the motor direction. First, there is the good "old fashion" method where you reverse any two of the motor wires. The servo connector is simply unplugged, flipped, and plugged back in. Done.
The other method of changing motor direction is to use BLHeli. This method is helpful if the motors are soldered in since it is a pain to have to re-soldier the motors just to swap wires especially if the quad is assembled. This is one reason that I rarely solder the motor wires to the FC. Another "trick" is to use racewire which allows the soldered connections to be out on the arm so a motor can be swapped or configured without the need to get into the FC.
By default, the camera has a connector so this is a no brainer.
Early on, I decided to use connectors for the Rx receiver. Since I wire my receivers as SBUS, I can quickly change the receiver from an XM+ to an R9MM without having to dismantle the quad. Also, if I want to move a receiver to another quad, again, no worries.
At first, I was using a 4-pin connector for the VTX, again, easy to swap out. Although most of my VTX boards are 5V, the VTX {both of them} used in this build take battery voltage which is 7 plus volts. Since the voltage requirements are different, I decided to split the connection into 2; one 2-pin for the signals {video and SmartAudio} and one for power. This method allows me to swap between VTXs with different voltage requirements. If 5volt, I will use a connector soldered to the 5 volt rail. If 7+ volts, I will use a connector soldered to the battery {or a 9 volt pad if the FC has one}.
For the GPS, I was using a 4-pin connector, however, I have now split this into two 2-pin connectors; one for the TX-RX signal and one for the power. Plus, I use sufficient length and position to allow the connection to be easily accessible in the field. When I arrive at a new fly location {or different than the last location}, I plug an external battery into the GPS for several minutes to allow the acquisition and fixing of satellites. When I am ready to fly, I disconnect the external battery and plug the GPS into connector attached to the quad's power system. Now, when powered, the GPS does not take so long to acquire a satellite fix.
I also use a connector for the buzzer. I use a JST 1.25 3-pin and mark the set with a piece of black heat shrink. Red to B+, Black to GND, and Yellow to B-. I can use one of those buzzers that wire in, but have a little battery or a standard 2-wire buzzer {one without a battery} or even swap between them should I need or want to.
Also note that I use Red and Black wires for power and the appropriate color of wire for the signals. I always have multiple color wire sets in an assortment of sizes, but the 26 gauge (AWG) is used the most. I also have multiple colors of heat shrink tubing that I might use to "mark" a wire or set of wires.
I will mention that I generally have more wire than other builders and have to "stuff" it in somewhere. While this may detract from the looks a bit, these quads don't get marks for being "pretty" anyway. Form follows function. If it don't fly ,it doesn't matter how it looks. Oh yeah, aerodynamics really is a non-issue for quadcopters. The props drawing air from the top {front if it is moving} for most of the surface area pretty much trumps any normal "air flow" over the craft anyway.
I have attached a "bottom" view of the Ronin-MK1 ONE showing the GPS power connector and the motor wire connections. In the past, I have just tied the motor connectors to the top of the arm, but decided to relocate them to the under belly for this build. It does provide a cleaner "top" view. The GPS power connector is easy to reach.
Nah...I like Ronin-MK1 ONE ![[Image: smile.png]](https://intofpv.com/images/smilies/smile.png)
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OK, got that fixed, seems to work just fine. 
Confusing. 
Grrrrr
