Haha, maybe!
Update today - super happy about progress because I think I am done with the hardest part (at least what I think that it is the hardest).
I bought some capacitors and extended it with a 20 AWG wire, measured everything and soldered also my XT60 pigtail.











BUT I am again concerned.. as always 
What do you think, are my positive and negative joints too close to each other?
I mean, when I look at them in real life, I would say they are 100% bridged.
But when taking picture or looking into magnifier it's not bridged.
I also did check it with multimeter, at first I had 1sek beep because of capacitor, and then whenever I touch both pads, no beeps.
So there is no short circuit but the distance there is like 0.5mm.

Tell me, is 3mm difference better than 0.5mm or it doesn't matter, since if any water gets there, it will short out even with 3mm? 

Just let me know If I am worried too much, or is there really bigger risk having so small gap, then I will definitely re-solder one of them.

BTW. I also noticed that for negative joint, solder didn't come out of bottom as it did for positive pad.
Will it make my connection weaker?

Well it is quite close to each other. There's too much solder I would say, judging from the size of the pad that is partly visible under the negative wire.

I know that soldering the battery leads is annoying and difficult, but I would probably try to redo it and use a bit less solder.

Most likely it's fine and it would work. Solder normally doesn't reflow itself, unless you're planning to pull hundreds of amps continuously through those pads (which would bring other problems).

P.S.: The solder didn't come through the negative pad because the negative pads are the most difficult to get heated properly - and from my experience, Kakute board was the most difficult one to heat the negative pad properly. It's because all the negative pads on the board are all internally connected, which creates a very good heatsink. Anyway, it shouldn't make the connection weaker really. Many flight controllers or 4in1 ESCs use just a single side pad and they are just fine.

At first glance it looks like they are not touching but when I zoomed in it actually did look a bit too close for comfort. Not that the solder can melt and touch - but that something conductive can get in there.

Either way, def consider some conformal coating and that will take care of any conductive debris / water droplets risk.

Thanks guys, that was what I needed.
A good night sleep. 

I guess I have to start trust more on my own judgement, I grabbed the FC and resoldered both pads.
A bit of struggle, and don't want to go there the 3rd time, so this is what I managed. I know not the best, but will do.

Still a bit too big and unfortunately not symmetric, but heck - better than before IMO.





So tomorrows plan If I get free time is to finish soldering ESCs to FC and figuring out the rest of wiring.
Since I don't have same camera and RX that Oscar used in his tutorial, I need to do some digging.

Definitely much better 

Looking forward to the next progress. Don't hesitate to ask if you run into any wiring issues

Thanks, well I did try to solder ESCs yesterday.
It seems like I am making every possible mistake I can. haha.

Turns out I have cut my wires too short, mostly signal and telemetry wires.
Didn't leave any slack, forgot that you can nicely tie them together and work with the longer lengths.

So was a bit disappointed and will redo half of wiring for ESCs.
Another issue is that I am not using fan / fume extractor when soldering, and this is getting annoying.
Maybe will get that first until I solder more.

Fume extractor is good. I just have the cheap Hakko one. Works great. Save your lungs.

Fume extractor is definitely a good idea. I should get one too... At this point, my soldering work is also a breathing exercise as I first take a deep breath, solder stuff, hold the breath until the smoke is gone and then breathe again. Which is slightly suboptimal approach so to say

Definitely not optimal.

(27-Nov-2019, 03:30 PM)izzy26 Wrote: Fume extractor is definitely a good idea. I should get one too... At this point, my soldering work is also a breathing exercise as I first take a deep breath, solder stuff, hold the breath until the smoke is gone and then breathe again. Which is slightly suboptimal approach so to say

I use the same system.....I just need to make a fume extractor...

(27-Nov-2019, 07:24 AM)notafraid_fpv Wrote: Thanks, well I did try to solder ESCs yesterday.
It seems like I am making every possible mistake I can. haha.

LOL don't be so hard on yourself man!! Remember half the fun is the build. And for masochists like me, its maybe 75% of the fun lol.

I can't tell you how often I put together and take apart a build. First 3 times its on purpose to test fit. The next 3 times is because I messed up the measurements the first 3 times lol. The whole "measure twice cut once" adage evidently never sunk in with me. But in fairness, I am also super OCD and cut my screws, wires, everything down to size. I typically even cut off all the wires on brand new motors and put on new ones cut to size. But that's just me lol.

I've been soldering for more years than I can remember and I've never used a fume extractor. I just breath as per normal when I'm soldering. Should I be worried? All I know is that I'm still here, for now at least

I think it probably matters most if you are prone to breathing problems or asthma, or you are soldering for hours on end. I probably get a more harmful intake of bad air and fumes on my daily commute to and from London than I do from 30 minutes worth of soldering.

Of course, you could always just wear a respirator like the urbex guys do

I basically resoldered everything. Haha.
It was way easier soldering everything on FC first, only then to ESC.

So guess all I needed was a pint of beer and I was on my way.
I still have to wire camera, vtx, rx and a buzzer 

Prepare for wiring questions! Will post them tmrow.

Damn, looking good very clean!

Is there any reason you didn't add the negative signal wire for the ESCs? While it's not strictly needed in all cases, it is generally good practice to add it for twisted pair and rudimentary signal shielding reasons. In fact, with bi-directional DSHOT now implemented in Betaflight 4.1, you could even argue if there is any point connecting up the telemetry (blue) wire anymore.