Posts: 5,965 Threads: 47 Likes Received: 2,798 in 2,259 posts Likes Given: 7,776 Joined: Jul 2019 Reputation: 97 (11-May-2022, 10:08 PM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: Is it normal to have one profile cover many drones? i would have thought you would almost have one profile per drone, since nothing is exactly the same, even between identical builds, things can be slightly different. Or do you have one profile for all drones and then create new ones when you find need to. I'm guessing if you have 20 or 30 drones, that you might run out of profile slots on some controllers and that could be a strategy for limiting profiles. Guessing this is something I am yet to discover. Hi Pathfinder, Yes, it is normal to have one profile for many drones. Moreover, it is more efficient than having a transmitter "Model" (or profile) for each quad. NOTE: Infinitely many quads can bind to the same transmitter model, but, an individual quad can only bind to one transmitter model. Since a transmitter model can only be set up for one RC link protocol, I have a model for each of the three protocols that I use; 1) Bayang [toy], 2) FrSky D16 [XM+], and 3) FrSky R9. Yes, I only have 3 models. Most of the time I fly quads that have an XM+ receiver. Consequently, the transmitter is generally set to that model. I fly different quads and don't have to "mess" with the model on the transmitter. The same model also works with any size quad from a 65mm framed tiny whoop to 5 inch which is my largest build so far. That said, I have a 6 inch and a 7 inch in progress and I will use the same transmitter model for them as well. From everything that I have seen and done, the individual quad configuration is handled in the FC firmware (Betaflight for me). Everything happens here. I have 6 switches set up on the transmitter, but what they do is controlled buy the Betaflight settings without any changes to the transmitter model. Even if it is possible to do some configuration in the transmitter model, why?? You have to be in Betaflight anyway, but you don't have to make a bunch of models on the transmitter. Keep the transmitter simple. Anyway, that is how I do it. Posts: 4,073 Threads: 75 Likes Received: 2,549 in 1,858 posts Likes Given: 3,949 Joined: May 2021 Reputation: 121 11-May-2022, 11:07 PM (This post was last modified: 11-May-2022, 11:20 PM by Lemonyleprosy.) I only have a handful of models in my tx as well, one model/profile for each rx protocol- each model bound to rx #0. (Or with the same binding phrase in the case of ELRS) If we’re just talking about throttle limiting, I prefer to have it set up on my tx, controlled by a twisty knob. This way I can adjust the percentage of throttle limiting I want without having to plug back in to a computer. If I’m doing indoor testing I can dial it all the way down to my set limit, which is 50%. If I’m flying a whoop indoors I can dial it to 75%. If I want more throttle resolution and I know I’m not going to do any full throttle punches, I can set it at 80%, if I’m going all out I can dial it up to 100%, etc. This is just my personal preference. Edit- although honestly, regardless of what I’m flying these days I tend to just leave that knob at 100%. I don’t think I’ve actually dialed it back in *months*. After setting up battery sag compensation in betaflight, I stopped finding myself slamming into the ceiling or going wildly out of control until I’d burned off some of the battery’s voltage. I still slam into the ceiling occasionally, but that’s usually due to a different issue. Dangerous operations. Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about. I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose. Posts: 5,965 Threads: 47 Likes Received: 2,798 in 2,259 posts Likes Given: 7,776 Joined: Jul 2019 Reputation: 97 You can do the same thing in Betaflight by putting it on a 6 position switch or a rotary pot if you want to. Of course, it does still just stay with that quad. I guess if you want to be able to do it for any quad, then it makes more sense to put it in the transmitter model. The truth is that I only have 1 quad, the Meteor65s tiny whoop, with a throttle limit and I only fly it indoors. The SPI receiver range is not very good; maybe 100 feet or not. Consequently, this little guy is just an indoor craft, but it just is what it is. I just do not see the need for a throttle limit when flying outdoors where there is plenty of space. • Posts: 731 Threads: 20 Likes Received: 490 in 341 posts Likes Given: 420 Joined: Nov 2019 Reputation: 20 12-May-2022, 04:10 PM (This post was last modified: 12-May-2022, 04:18 PM by jasperfpv.) (11-May-2022, 10:15 PM)iFly4rotors Wrote: Hi Jasper From my perspective, it is more effective to keep the transmitter as generic as possible since all the transmitter is really doing is just sending signals to the FC firmware via the RC link receiver. It is the FC firmware (Betaflight for me) that determines what to do with it. In fact, it seems like all of a quad's configuration, settings, and specialization is managed in this firmware. Beside, we have got to be in the FC firmware to set up a quad anyway; this is also were all of the PID tuning happens. Why not set the throttle limit here as well. I just makes sense to me. If you use the same RC protocol, you could probably use just one transmitter model for each type of firmware. Again, quad specialization is handled by the FC firmware configuration. Anyway, that is my perspective on it. ![High Five High Five](https://intofpv.com/images/smilies/custom/high-five.png) We are probably talking about the same thing but in a round about way. I don't set up any of my models with throttle limit / curve and then copied across multiple quads as I set them up. It makes no sense to apply that to all the quads. If a quad needs some custom throttle curve on the transmitter, it can be done later but I won't copy that quad settings when i setup another betaflight quad later on. Not talking about pids/firmware setting in my previous post , purely re radio transmitter. When I setup Kiss firmware and FalcoX quad on my radio, I don't copy the Betaflight models for these quads as they are different. I have 25+ quads on my radio at the moment with Crossfire, ELRS, XM+, RXSR, Frsky D8 SPI, so there's some variation in the model setup. • Posts: 5,965 Threads: 47 Likes Received: 2,798 in 2,259 posts Likes Given: 7,776 Joined: Jul 2019 Reputation: 97 (12-May-2022, 04:10 PM)jasperfpv Wrote: We are probably talking about the same thing but in a round about way. I don't set up any of my models with throttle limit / curve and then copied across multiple quads as I set them up. It makes no sense to apply that to all the quads. If a quad needs some custom throttle curve on the transmitter, it can be done later but I won't copy that quad settings when i setup another betaflight quad later on. Not talking about pids/firmware setting in my previous post , purely re radio transmitter. When I setup Kiss firmware and FalcoX quad on my radio, I don't copy the Betaflight models for these quads as they are different. I have 25+ quads on my radio at the moment with Crossfire, ELRS, XM+, RXSR, Frsky D8 SPI, so there's some variation in the model setup. Hi Jasper, Yes, perhaps we are sort of saying the same thing, but maybe not. I want very few generic transmitter models with all the customization in the FC firmware. If I understand you correctly, you prefer for that individual customization to be in the transmitter model rather than the FC firmware. On the one hand, we are doing the same thing in different places. On the other hand, it does make a difference where those customizations are applied. It looks like you have 5 RC protocols. My transmitter would only have 5 models one for each of the RC protocols. Everything else would be set in the FC firmware regardless of what firmware that was. In fact, a model set up for the FrSky D16 XM+ receiver would likely work regardless of the FC firmware installed. The radio transmitter just sends the signals, the FC firmware determines how to handle them. You might experiment with this and you might find that you could simplify your transmitter to just one model for each RC protocol. Would that not be a simpler and perhaps an easier way rather than having a bunch of models on the transmitter. Think about it. I fly over 2 dozen quads with just 3 transmitter models. Most of my quads use an XM+ receiver, but I do have a few with R9MM receivers, plus I still fly my Bayang [toy] quads with this the same transmitter. It seems that we all have our way of doing things. Mine is to keep the transmitter "light" and simple while making ALL customizations in the FC firmware configuration. It just seems logical to me. I can grab a quad and fly it without changing anything on the transmitter since most of mine are FrSky D16 XM+ receivers. For R9, I have to change the JR bay module anyway so switching the model is automatic and only to the R9 one. I don't fly the Bayang toy quads as much these days, but it is no problem to switch the model for those rare occasions. Anyway, I guess that is just me. • Posts: 731 Threads: 20 Likes Received: 490 in 341 posts Likes Given: 420 Joined: Nov 2019 Reputation: 20 15-May-2022, 06:53 AM (This post was last modified: 15-May-2022, 07:02 AM by jasperfpv.) I think we are misunderstanding each other. Thx for the suggestion. I'm doing that already for the different RC protocols as I don't create a new model each time I add a quad. Anyway, we are taking the thread off track. Posts: 320 Threads: 21 Likes Received: 162 in 117 posts Likes Given: 185 Joined: Apr 2022 Reputation: 5 Just a quick update here... After flying a bit with the meteor I decided to buy the Crux3 as well. Initially I wanted to buy the 35 but given the lack of battery stock for it I went with the younger sibling as it would allow me to jus use the same batteries as the meteor. Very nice done, I didn't expect it to be so different from the meteor, even though its 1s its so much faster.. It takes a bit of an adjustment to get the hang of it but I'm getting there, had I gone with the 35 I would have had a much bigger struggle to handle it where I fly mostly (I'm not an experienced pilot) and would have to go fly it on a bigger open space (which in turn would reduce the frequency I would fly it, specially at the beginning). It's also much more efficient with the battery than the meteor, which I was not expecting at all.. With the same 450 batteries I'm getting 6-7 min on the crux vs 4-5 on the meteor (not doing anything crazy yet, just doing some low altitude sharp turns and the odd roll and flip here and there). Very happy with the purchase and I would recommend it for anyone looking for something to fly outside on the 1s side of things.. Posts: 2,688 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 1,429 in 1,073 posts Likes Given: 854 Joined: Apr 2022 Reputation: 43 I think if I was getting one, I'd go with the 1-2S version, for exactly the same reason. I already have some investment in 2S batteries. Try Not, Do or Do Not - Yoda • Posts: 320 Threads: 21 Likes Received: 162 in 117 posts Likes Given: 185 Joined: Apr 2022 Reputation: 5 Yeah, in the current market situation one has to adapt a bit... The elrs version only comes in 1s, the 2s is the older frsky version, which would require an external elrs rx (in case someone might wonder). I think I'm settled with the small 1s drones for now. Might do the odd modification here and there, but I really want to get a slightly bigger freestyle build for my next one.. • Posts: 2,688 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 1,429 in 1,073 posts Likes Given: 854 Joined: Apr 2022 Reputation: 43 I'm probably going Pavo30 next. Something 4S that will carry a session cam and has a lot of power under the bonnet. Besides that I will probably start my first build as well, by picking up a frame or maybe two. I saw these 2" Twiglet frames that are mega cheap. Might get a couple of them and put something together that I can learn to build on, but ultimately can maybe give to my nephew to learn to fly on. Probably a 1S/2S build, but whoop small. Try Not, Do or Do Not - Yoda Posts: 4,073 Threads: 75 Likes Received: 2,549 in 1,858 posts Likes Given: 3,949 Joined: May 2021 Reputation: 121 That twiglet frame looks like it would be fun with some high kv 1104 or 1106 motors. Dangerous operations. Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about. I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose. Posts: 5,965 Threads: 47 Likes Received: 2,798 in 2,259 posts Likes Given: 7,776 Joined: Jul 2019 Reputation: 97 (23-May-2022, 08:36 PM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: I'm probably going Pavo30 next. Something 4S that will carry a session cam and has a lot of power under the bonnet. Besides that I will probably start my first build as well, by picking up a frame or maybe two. I saw these 2" Twiglet frames that are mega cheap. Might get a couple of them and put something together that I can learn to build on, but ultimately can maybe give to my nephew to learn to fly on. Probably a 1S/2S build, but whoop small. Hi Pathfinder, Yeah, that Twiglet frame is cute. Since there is only a "bottom" plate {like the original toothpicks}, just pick up a canopy for a tiny whoop or toothpick, bottom sling the battery, and you are good to go. • Posts: 1,845 Threads: 203 Likes Received: 346 in 264 posts Likes Given: 306 Joined: May 2020 Reputation: 11 A tiny whoop indoors is what helped me use goggles,then a Geprc phantom in backyard. You could start with a phantom but you would stand a better chance of not losing your phantom if you started with a tiny whoop indoors. Posts: 5,965 Threads: 47 Likes Received: 2,798 in 2,259 posts Likes Given: 7,776 Joined: Jul 2019 Reputation: 97 24-May-2022, 01:39 PM (This post was last modified: 24-May-2022, 01:42 PM by iFly4rotors.) +1 I agree with Rob, My first open prop freestyle was the EMAX TinyHawk Freestyle. Flying this quad on 1S in our back yard, I almost lost it 3 times and that is with my wife as a spotter and knowing {or so she thought} precisely where it went down. One time it took us over 30 minutes to find the thing where she saw it crash. That said, I discovered the same thing with tiny whoops. I got one stuck in a tree in our back yard and that was a real PITA to get it out. Another time, crashed the tiny whoop in the brush with wife spotting it took us about 20 minutes to find it. Until you get used to flying FPV, you either need a confined space or a LOT of "clear" space. If you get tangled in a tree, you will understand. OR, if it crashes in any type of tall grass, brush, or pretty much any plant life. Just because it is your back yard, doesn't mean you can't lose it; or more specifically just not be able to retrieve it; Unless you have a clear 40 acre back yard with very short grass. • Posts: 2,688 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 1,429 in 1,073 posts Likes Given: 854 Joined: Apr 2022 Reputation: 43 Not sure if Rob3ddd's comment was aimed at cst3x6 or me. But. For me the backyard isn't that big. Trees also don't worry me that much, i will be throwing a 20m rope and my basic arb gear in my flight bag, so i can scale pretty much any tree, if I need to. Honestly I'm more worried about losing it on a roof. My plan is fly it inside mostly until I have the control bit down, maybe fly it at a bando near me that is basically one big room. https://youtu.be/OPxA3wG-R1s?t=34 Or at a park a couple of miles away that is basically massive with several areas without trees that you could get away with flying a small whoop, on a Sunday morning. But initially, until I shoot around my house in acro at full power, probably no major stuff. When I get the Pavo, I will probably look at GPS too. Try Not, Do or Do Not - Yoda • |