(21-Oct-2019, 04:58 AM)bLoWsMokE Wrote: Which post? What issue? ;O

His post above with pics of the flight controller.  He's given me a chance to save it!  I hope to have time to work on it Thursday night.

(21-Oct-2019, 01:42 PM)mwbyrd Wrote: His post above with pics of the flight controller.  He's given me a chance to save it!  I hope to have time to work on it Thursday night.

lol IDK what post you're talking about... Someone said betaflight has a big issue? There are a lot of posts so I skimmed but I didn't see anything. 

Hi there! Definitely no luck with the VTX, none of the parts gets extremely hot and neither give me a short when i use the multimeter, Maybe something inside the VTX got loose or something and is causing this.

I need to get back in the air and fortunately i got a refund for the FC/VTX alone, which is great. All i have now is the ESC from my original FC/VTX stack, and i'm looking for a good FC/VTX combo to replace the original one. I could get the one that originally come with the stack but so far only Bangood have it and i want it as soon as possible. I found this stack which have VTX and FC: https://www.racedayquads.com/collections...v-v2-stack Would it work by connecting this to my 4 in 1 ESC? I mean, the previous connection was plug and play, but i'm not sure if this new FC/VTX combo could match my ESC right away. Thanks for your help.

(26-Oct-2019, 09:37 AM)CM17X Wrote: I need to get back in the air and fortunately i got a refund for the FC/VTX alone, which is great. All i have now is the ESC from my original FC/VTX stack, and i'm looking for a good FC/VTX combo to replace the original one. I could get the one that originally come with the stack but so far only Bangood have it and i want it as soon as possible. I found this stack which have VTX and FC: https://www.racedayquads.com/collections...v-v2-stack Would it work by connecting this to my 4 in 1 ESC? I mean, the previous connection was plug and play, but i'm not sure if this new FC/VTX combo could match my ESC right away.

If you want to keep your existing ESC and are happy to stay with an F4 FC then that Kakute F4 V2 is probably as good a choice as any. You will just need to splice the ESC connector cables together because the one on the ESC has 7 pins while the one on the FC has 8 pins. You may even find you can remove the pins from one end of the KTT ESC connector and put them in the 8-pin Kakute connector if they are the same type.

With the motor wires (pins 5-8) you can either connect them up so the motor numbering matches like below and then remap any that are in an incorrect position in Betaflight Configurator, or you can wire them up as below and any you find to be in the incorrect position you can just swap the pins over in the plug accordingly. We can help you with either of those options later if you get stuck.


Kakute F4 V2 FC     KKT-40A ESC
---------------     -----------
Pin 1 (Battery) --> BAT
Pin 2 (R5) -------> Not Connected
Pin 3 (Ground) ---> GND
Pin 4 (Current) --> CU
Pin 5 (M1)--------> IN1
Pin 6 (M2) -------> IN2
Pin 7 (M3) -------> IN3
Pin 8 (M4) -------> IN4

(26-Oct-2019, 03:22 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: If you want to keep your existing ESC and are happy to stay with an F4 FC then that Kakute F4 V2 is probably as good a choice as any. You will just need to splice the ESC connector cables together because the one on the ESC has 7 pins while the one on the FC has 8 pins. You may even find you can remove the pins from one end of the KTT ESC connector and put them in the 8-pin Kakute connector if they are the same type.

With the motor wires (pins 5-8) you can either connect them up so the motor numbering matches like below and then remap any that are in an incorrect position in Betaflight Configurator, or you can wire them up as below and any you find to be in the incorrect position you can just swap the pins over in the plug accordingly. We can help you with either of those options later if you get stuck.


Kakute F4 V2 FC     KKT-40A ESC
---------------     -----------
Pin 1 (Battery) --> BAT
Pin 2 (R5) -------> Not Connected
Pin 3 (Ground) ---> GND
Pin 4 (Current) --> CU
Pin 5 (M1)--------> IN1
Pin 6 (M2) -------> IN2
Pin 7 (M3) -------> IN3
Pin 8 (M4) -------> IN4

I could try that, but where I am supposed to solder or attach the missing 8 cable of the ESC if it only have 7 pins?
Thank you so much for your help. I still on the fence to buy the KKT, I'm proning to get the same FC which comes with this LDARC Tower but I'd like to know how to work around as well.

(27-Oct-2019, 04:14 PM)CM17X Wrote: I could try that, but where I am supposed to solder or attach the missing 8 cable of the ESC if it only have 7 pins?
Thank you so much for your help. I still on the fence to buy the KKT, I'm proning to get the same FC which comes with this LDARC Tower but I'd like to know how to work around as well.

You don't solder it anywhere. The Kakute F4 V2 can take telemetry data from the ESC (current, RPM, temperature etc.) but the KKT ESC board doesn't have the ability to provide telemetry data. So just remove the pin from position 2 of the Kakute ESC harness (or cut that wire off).

Hi guys! I want to add an input to this thread since it got solved, partially...
I got the same FC (KK Superfly tower) for fix my build, my first move was to connect it to the 4in1 ESC and the receiver; i've tried boot it up using the smoke stopper and it went flawless, i got all the initialization beeps and the smoke stopper was off.
I've decided to connect the camera and boot it again, turns out i got the same behaviour i got before in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdN-cGUA...e=youtu.be | The smoke stopper remains ON and the FC doens't completely boot.

So i checked for continuity on the cables and connectors of the camera and there was no beeps, but i did notice that there was some readings for no reason i know. 
I opened the back plate and found this horrible thing... That little thing (picture attached, look closer to the connectors) is desoldered from the PCB, it seems like the crash was so hard that it got loose, made a short and burned my old FC.





Is this fixable with some solder or i have to buy another camera? This is a CADDX ratel.

Thanks for reading and for your help!

Very fixable. Looks like a capacitor. Just resolder it back into place.

(30-Nov-2019, 06:47 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: Very fixable. Looks like a capacitor. Just resolder it back into place.

Even after fixing that cap, is it possible that it won't work still because he's trying to power everything with a smoke stopper still on it? Or should everything work fine even with a smoke stopper?

(30-Nov-2019, 11:21 PM)bLoWsMokE Wrote: Even after fixing that cap, is it possible that it won't work still because he's trying to power everything with a smoke stopper still on it? Or should everything work fine even with a smoke stopper?

That is hard to say. Something else could have burnt. So it still might not work. But worth a try.

(01-Dec-2019, 12:01 AM)voodoo614 Wrote: That is hard to say. Something else could have burnt. So it still might not work. But worth a try.

So, I went to an electrician guy yesterday and he did the soldier for me, I have not those tiny solder skills. His solder was nasty it looks ugly but the cap is attached and seems like it's not going anywhere.
I plugged the camera to the FC/VTX and powered the whole system with the smoke stopper and this time the bulb remains off! The whole beeps are heard and I was able to see video through the goggles. So far it looks like it worked. But now that the black raven of the bad luck arrived (BlowSmoke) I got a bit worried. Despite the precautions I took and the results, it could still burn something?

Also, we need a badge for Bad Luck Pilot, while testing the system (with the camera disconnected, of course) I was testing the receiver inputs, as expected, the receiver was comunicating with my TX, I've armed the quad and started to throttle for a bit, also, weny for 80% throttle or so when suddenly the notors stopped and I realized that my receiver wasnt taking inputs, I've checked under the stack and the receiver has the red led on. God Sakes! I tried re-binding it with no avail, also tried to update it with the controller and got an error; long story short, for some reason my R9MM stopped working on the bench without any reason I can identify. What could have gone wrong? Now I need another receiver.

Have you try reflashing the R9MM?

(01-Dec-2019, 03:11 PM)CM17X Wrote: So, I went to an electrician guy yesterday and he did the soldier for me, I have not those tiny solder skills. His solder was nasty it looks ugly but the cap is attached and seems like it's not going anywhere.
I plugged the camera to the FC/VTX and powered the whole system with the smoke stopper and this time the bulb remains off! The whole beeps are heard and I was able to see video through the goggles. So far it looks like it worked. But now that the black raven of the bad luck arrived (BlowSmoke) I got a bit worried. Despite the precautions I took and the results, it could still burn something?

Also, we need a badge for Bad Luck Pilot, while testing the system (with the camera disconnected, of course) I was testing the receiver inputs, as expected, the receiver was comunicating with my TX, I've armed the quad and started to throttle for a bit, also, weny for 80% throttle or so when suddenly the notors stopped and I realized that my receiver wasnt taking inputs,  I've checked under the stack and the receiver has the red led on. God Sakes! I tried re-binding it with no avail, also tried to update it with the controller and got an error; long story short, for some reason my R9MM stopped working on the bench without any reason I can identify. What could have gone wrong? Now I need another receiver.

I wouldn't keep trying to run your quad and see video and run the motors and trying all these things with a smoke stopper on it.... the smoke stopper is just to see if there is a short... I'm not saying I have any basis for what I'm saying lol it's just that when you're bringing the motors up to 80% and using the all the quads functions I would only do it with a fully functioning battery. To me trying all that stuff with a smoke stopper sitll attached would be just as much of a risk as not using the smoke stopper to check for shorts... Again I don't have a basis for this, it's just more of a gut feeling, basicalyl since I wouldn't expect everything to work correctly with a smoke stopper... so I might expect something to go wrong if I tried.

And are you saying i'm the black raven of bad luck lol? I don't understand   What the hell did I do that is so unlucky? 

Edit: If you did this 80% motor thing etc with a regular battery and no smoke stopper, just disregard the message in that case. 

(01-Dec-2019, 09:18 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: Have you try reflashing the R9MM?

I got an error and won't let me update it.
I've checked a picture I took of it and the receiver is full of mud, not that full but It still have debris from the last crash. I wonder if it got burned by a short under raising the motors speed or something. The receiver still flashing like it is still alive, I mean, red led, green led, etc, just wont bind or update.

(02-Dec-2019, 12:11 AM)bLoWsMokE Wrote: I wouldn't keep trying to run your quad and see video and run the motors and trying all these things with a smoke stopper on it.... the smoke stopper is just to see if there is a short... I'm not saying I have any basis for what I'm saying lol it's just that when you're bringing the motors up to 80% and using the all the quads functions I would only do it with a fully functioning battery. To me trying all that stuff with a smoke stopper sitll attached would be just as much of a risk as not using the smoke stopper to check for shorts... Again I don't have a basis for this, it's just more of a gut feeling, basicalyl since I wouldn't expect everything to work correctly with a smoke stopper... so I might expect something to go wrong if I tried.

And are you saying i'm the black raven of bad luck lol? I don't understand   What the hell did I do that is so unlucky? 

Edit: If you did this 80% motor thing etc with a regular battery and no smoke stopper, just disregard the message in that case. 

Besides me, you're the unluckiest person I know wit electronics, and there is a tree that proves it! LoL

I don't know, man, it should work with the capacitor re-soldered, I don't see why not, but now you made me afraid.