(20-Oct-2019, 08:34 PM)CM17X Wrote: Sadly no.
I did every check suggested by Snowleopard and the other guys but I'm still getting the same "short" out of nowhere. I have already one month without flying and it's killing me. Waiting for a replacement.
Do you have the same FC?

When the video come on an off like that... are all the lights on the VTX going on and off too coinciding with the picture loss?

(20-Oct-2019, 08:54 PM)bLoWsMokE Wrote: When the video come on an off like that... are all the lights on the VTX going on and off too coinciding with the picture loss?

I'm not sure what you mean, dude, but the FC acts like normal, the lights comes up.
By the way the video doesn't come on and off it was me disconnecting and connecting the battery, I did the video that way to show that I get video while the quad is booting up.

(20-Oct-2019, 09:25 PM)CM17X Wrote: I'm not sure what you mean, dude, but the FC acts like normal, the lights comes up.
By the way the video doesn't come on and off it was me disconnecting and connecting the battery, I did the video that way to show that I get video while the quad is booting up.

so you plug in, see video for a second, then the video goes away? That is odd...

And I meant the VTX lights... When the video goes away do the little led lights on the VTX turn off as well?

(17-Sep-2019, 12:37 AM)CM17X Wrote: Hi there, @snowleopard.
I've checked for continuity in all the pins you suggested, actually, i've tested the whole FC with no continuity at all. I just cleaned the FC with isopropyl alcohol and i'm waiting for it to dry and test again.

Also, i did perform a continuity check with every single cable connecting the FC to thge ESC an they have continuity, meaning that none of them is loose or broken.
Edit: Well, after clean it with alcohol and try again, the problem still . If someone have more ideas, i'm willing to try. Thank you.

OK, so you don't have a short on any of the power rails so you likely have a faulty component somewhere on the FC that has gone bad and is drawing excess current which is causing the smoke stopper bulb to come on. That doesn't just happen because of a short, it's just that a short is usually the most common reason for that.

When you power up the board from a LiPo, are any of the components on the FC getting hot to the touch if you put your finger on them?

(20-Oct-2019, 09:57 PM)bLoWsMokE Wrote: so you plug in, see video for a second, then the video goes away? That is odd...

And I meant the VTX lights... When the video goes away do the little led lights on the VTX turn off as well?

Lights remain on all the time, but the bulb in the smoke stopper lights up and the video goes off.

(20-Oct-2019, 08:34 PM)CM17X Wrote: Sadly no.
I did every check suggested by Snowleopard and the other guys but I'm still getting the same "short" out of nowhere. I have already one month without flying and it's killing me. Waiting for a replacement.
Do you have the same FC?

I don't have the same flight controller. I have the one that comes stock on the Eachine Tyro 129.  I kind of got frustrated and hooked it up to Betaflight and powered it up and the Smoke Stopper bulb went off!   And I didn't get any smoke so I'm kind of like....I'm going for it.

Now my issue is that the FC has three super tiny pads and two have to be jumped to set it to SBUS or IBUS.  Well, I'm new to soldering and totally jacked these pads up.  Were there were 3, now there is one...So in Betaflight, it's not seeing any stick movements.  I'm 90% sure because the FC has no idea how to send the stick signals.

So...I'm going to order a relatively inexpense FC/ESC combo from RDQ and see if that works later this week. I have to go out of town for work for two days so the timing should be better.  Plus I'm getting thinner solder and solder sucker to help when I make mistakes.  (Trying to find some Solder wick without much luck locally....)

(20-Oct-2019, 10:34 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: OK, so you don't have a short on any of the power rails so you likely have a faulty component somewhere on the FC that has gone bad and is drawing excess current which is causing the smoke stopper bulb to come on. That doesn't just happen because of a short, it's just that a short is usually the most common reason for that.

When you power up the board from a LiPo, are any of the components on the FC getting hot to the touch if you put your finger on them?

I need to try again to test, but as far as I remember it doesn't, just the normal heat you'd expect with a powered VTX and no air flowing. Anyway I'll check and post back. Thank you.

(20-Oct-2019, 11:11 PM)mwbyrd Wrote: I don't have the same flight controller. I have the one that comes stock on the Eachine Tyro 129.  I kind of got frustrated and hooked it up to Betaflight and powered it up and the Smoke Stopper bulb went off!   And I didn't get any smoke so I'm kind of like....I'm going for it.

Now my issue is that the FC has three super tiny pads and two have to be jumped to set it to SBUS or IBUS.  Well, I'm new to soldering and totally jacked these pads up.  Were there were 3, now there is one...So in Betaflight, it's not seeing any stick movements.  I'm 90% sure because the FC has no idea how to send the stick signals.

So...I'm going to order a relatively inexpense FC/ESC combo from RDQ and see if that works later this week. I have to go out of town for work for two days so the timing should be better.  Plus I'm getting thinner solder and solder sucker to help when I make mistakes.  (Trying to find some Solder wick without much luck locally....)

Wait a second after you hooked this yo Betaflight, the smoke stopper bulb went off? Well, I can connect it to BF but it doesn't go off. I tried to convince myself that maybe the crash somehow messed up the software but I'm not that naive to think that anymore.
Your case is strange.

By the way in not 100% sure but that FC looks in a very bad shape, so your problem or short is associated to those pads.

(20-Oct-2019, 11:17 PM)CM17X Wrote: Wait a second after you hooked this yo Betaflight, the smoke stopper bulb went off? Well, I can connect it to BF but it doesn't go off. I tried to convince myself that maybe the crash somehow messed up the software but I'm not that naive to think that anymore.
Your case is strange.

By the way in not 100% sure but that FC looks in a very bad shape, so your problem or short is associated to those pads.

Yeah...I"m pretty sure I toasted the EXTREMELY tiny pads that I had to jump to tell the receiver to communicate in SBUS... I tried to 'clean' off some of the solder to rebridge, but think it might be too late.

But it talks to Betaflight!

Total beginner here so it was bound to happen....right?

(20-Oct-2019, 11:34 PM)mwbyrd Wrote: Yeah...I"m pretty sure I toasted the EXTREMELY tiny pads that I had to jump to tell the receiver to communicate in SBUS... I tried to 'clean' off some of the solder to rebridge, but think it might be too late.  

But it talks to Betaflight!

Total beginner here so it was bound to happen....right?

Those pads are (were) connected to tracks on the circuit board. Get a scalpel or x-acto knife and scrape the silkscreen (resin coating) off the tracks to expose the copper for the two tracks that you need to bridge (tracks at the green arrow and either the yellow or red arrow depending whether you need IBUS or SBUS).

Make sure you use a fine tip and on a temperature controlled soldering iron. 300°C (572°F) is hot enough. Use lots of flux and thin 63/37 or 60/40 leaded solder. Avoid the lead free crap. Using a small piece of wire to help bridge the tracks is also easier. Just hold it in place with tweezers and solder it in place (don't forget to douse it in flux).

(20-Oct-2019, 10:34 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: OK, so you don't have a short on any of the power rails so you likely have a faulty component somewhere on the FC that has gone bad and is drawing excess current which is causing the smoke stopper bulb to come on. That doesn't just happen because of a short, it's just that a short is usually the most common reason for that.

When you power up the board from a LiPo, are any of the components on the FC getting hot to the touch if you put your finger on them?

Would plugging in a normal lipo battery cause any further damage in this scenario?

(21-Oct-2019, 12:13 AM)bLoWsMokE Wrote: Would plugging in a normal lipo battery cause any further damage in this scenario?

Possibly, but the board is already seemingly fubarred, so nothing ventured, nothing gained

(21-Oct-2019, 12:00 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Those pads are (were) connected to tracks on the circuit board. Get a scalpel or x-acto knife and scrape the silkscreen (resin coating) off the tracks to expose the copper for the two tracks that you need to bridge (tracks at the green arrow and either the yellow or red arrow depending whether you need IBUS or SBUS).

Make sure you use a fine tip and on a temperature controlled soldering iron. 300°C (572°F) is hot enough. Use lots of flux and thin 63/37 or 60/40 leaded solder. Avoid the lead free crap. Using a small piece of wire to help bridge the tracks is also easier. Just hold it in place with tweezers and solder it in place (don't forget to douse it in flux).

Thanks SnowLeopard. This is the kind of info I was looking for. I have some thin solder from RDQ on order and some solder wick to help clean it up. I'll give your idea a shot Thursday when I get back into town.

I also saw the post about the Alarming issue in Betaflight (it may have been on another forum) that I'll look into.

I'll keep everyone posted.

(21-Oct-2019, 01:07 AM)mwbyrd Wrote: Thanks SnowLeopard. This is the kind of info I was looking for.  I have some thin solder from RDQ on order and some solder wick to help clean it up.  I'll give your idea a shot Thursday when I get back into town.

I also saw the post about the Alarming issue in Betaflight (it may have been on another forum) that I'll look into.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Which post? What issue? ;O