This thread will be some 65mm and 75mm brushed and brushless builds.

First up is a 65mm brushed build.

Frame: Inductrix 65mm

AIO FC: Alienwhoop Project Zer0
Brushed AIO FC, F0 mcu
1-2s
2.25A (?!) 5v bec

Motors: NewBeeDrone BDR Unicorn 6mm Brushed 25500kv
(NBD has these on blowout for $5.99 for a 4 pack)

Cam: Some random backpack aio cam/vtx combo.

RX: HM EP2 (This board doesn't support CRSF protocol, so I'm flashing this rx with ELRS v3.3 to get true SBUS output)

Battery: Tattu 300mah. I'm using ph2.0 connectors because that's what I've got.

Props: NBD Azi 0.8mm tri-blades or quad-blades.



I've never been a fan of brushed whoops. I find them to be underpowered/unresponsive and a bit gutless. These motors are significantly higher kv than I've tried in the past, so I'm hoping they will change my mind.

This fc has been sitting on my shelf for 2 years. It came in my first purchase of a used whoop lot- the original owner said it needed to be reflashed.

At the time I was just learning how to set up betaflight and flash esc's, so I wasn't about to try to figure out how to flash an fc that didn't even have a usb port and used a completely different firmware. So, it sat on my shelf, and I completely forgot about it.

After Hugnosed posted a Silverware whoop build in the new Silverware/Quicksilver section of this forum, I remembered that I had it. When I finally opened up the box for the first time, I discovered that it also had a JHEMCU Beecore f4 brushless AIO fc in the box. I'm gonna go ahead and take that as a sign that I should also build some 65mm and 75mm brushless whoops. I'm really not sure of the specs of the jhemcu beecore board. Guess I'll find out. It'll work or burn out on a brushless build. Anyhow.

These brushed motors are a high enough kv that I expect to have to let them rest and cool down between batteries, so yeah, if I'm gonna do some proper whooping, ima need a couple brushless builds to fly while it's cooling down.

The previous owner was kind enough to leave me a programming harness. The ground wire is loose, that might be why the original owner had issues flashing it. I'll be removing this harness to save weight after I flash it.



This board can only run Silverware. It cannot run Quicksilver or BetaFlight.
Managed to find a user manual for this board:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2371/1...0424752178
A couple important things to note:
This board defaults to props out.
Apparently if you try to flash this board with your rx bound and your tx on, it can brick the board. May or may not be unbrickable. So, make sure that either your rx is not attached, or if it is, that your tx is off.

Okay, I'm gonna follow these youtube videos to compile and flash Silverware to this board:




Those directions didn't fully work for me. I'm using a knock-off st-link v2, and in order to connect, I had to use the outdated st-link utility to update the firmware on the dongle, and then run stm32 cube. Then I was actually able to connect to the zer0 board and do a full chip erase.



Hopefully that cleared out whatever the previous owner of this board did. Time to open up Keil and figure out my settings.
Alright, I officially don't know wtf I'm doing. 
Keil didn't want to connect or read my shit. That means I can't customize anything.
But, stm32 cube will allow me to read, erase, and write to this board.
I think I managed to flash the sbus version of silverware to this board. Maybe?
We'll find out- if it arms and spins a motor, we're good.

Alright, before I can try doing that, I need to replace the ceramic tower antenna that broke off of this ep2 rx with a 28mm to 30mm wire.
Done. Okay, now I need to flash that rx with elrs v3.3, sbus.
I had some trouble figuring out how to flash this with the unofficial elrs v3.3 master (thank you, Snow, for telling me how to do it.)
Checked this rx on a boad that can connect to betaflight- we've got proper sbus. Awesome! It’s a little buggy though.

Nah, F this. We're gonna figure out how to do this right.
Alright, I managed to open the config file in Keil. Turns out that the most recent version of Silverware supports CRSF protocol. Cool!
But.. I can't build it. I'm missing Arm Compiler version 5...



Okay, figured out how to download a legacy version of arm compiler v5 from arm's website.
It was a bit of a pia, took some giving up of my information to get it to download, and then I had to install and reinstall things and then do it all over again because the arm compiler v5 needs to be installed in the arm subdirectory of the keil installation folder. Urgh. I'm too drunk for this shit. I hate software.

Then, in Keil, I had to go to Project - Manage - Project Items - Folders/Extensions: and point it to the v5 compiler.
Had to fix a few errors.

Okay, I've got what I think is a compiled .hex file of my custom settings. Should be set up for crsf protocol now. Maybe. Gonna use stm32 cube to flash that hex file, then I'm gonna flash my ep2 rx with my regular non inverted, non 3.3 experimental, usual elrs build.
Oh, snap! When I hit arm (and I have aux6 [sd] in a low position) with a motor plugged in, it spins!!!

Maybe I can actually build this thing now. This little bird has turned out to be a hell of a headache, I'm glad I didn't try this 2 years ago when I first started out.

These motors with their rainbow colors are perdy.



Alright, so, this is actually my first proper 65mm brushed build. I've had a variety of brushed quads in the past that I didn't build. I had to take my heat gun on low to heat up this frame enough to get the motors to fully seat. Is that normal? If it is, how the hell do you get the damn things out without breaking the frame when you need to replace them? Does this inductrix frame just have tighter tolerances than others?



I've been at this little 65mm build for about a week now. I thought it would be a simple thing, but with having to learn the software and whatnot, it's taking me as long a larger build. I'm cool with that.

I might finally get this little bird in the air Wednesday night.

Maybe.

I have a soft spot for brushed whoops. My first whoop was a blade inductrix and it was really fun. I later found out about newbeedrone and got a hummingbird and was truly amazed at how well it flew. Like you mentioned above, they were all mostly gutless and didn't have any authority lol.

Those unicorn motors you have will put that brushed whoop into a different light. The motors are closer to brushless power and the whoop will still be lighter than most brushless whoops out there. I still fly mine from time to time! I think they are more fun for cruising around the house than the brushless ones because they seem to have more control. Not as fun outside though.

I appreciated brushed whoops when I was first learning how to fly, but I quickly found myself wanting more power, so I started building brushless. All the brushed whoops just sat on my shelf until I eventually gave or traded them all away.

I’m really hoping that these motors do give me a new appreciation for brushed whoops. All of the brushed and brushless whoop builds in this thread won’t be for outside flying- my goal is to set up a racetrack in my shop and have things I can fly when it’s too late to tear up the sky with my larger birds.

I’ve got a box full of whoop frames and older f3 and f4 1s aio’s, might as well put them to use.

I leave the little 615s for the toy LOS WHoops, the big boys FPV all run 716s in brushed. I still have my original B03 that I put their cam/canoy on & using their "Hot" motors. My other has a Beecore/Silverware board, and right now, some new Tiny Whoop Boss Sauce 716/17,500kvs and is noticeably faster than the B03, but it was faster with it's Boldclash Hot motors too. I was going to try their  NOS Sauce 18,000kvs and see if the difference is what they say before I try their Bald Eagle Sauce 19,100kvs, which are the same kv as the brushless 802/19s on a bunch of the Mob6s & 7s. They do say those start cutting into the air time.

I got an easier way for my Silverware Whoops, I still have a couple I used, and a couple brand new Beecore/Silverware boards . . . originally made by Happymodel, and those came out the same time as the Beta brushed Silverware boards, which in some electronics reviews way above my level, said they weren't as good as, and didn't have as good of components as the Beecore. I made twins in 65s, 75s & 85s brushed, with a Boldclash B03 Pro board and a Beecore/Silverware board. I used the B03 frame & the Cockroach frames for the 65s, & the 75s & 85s the KK Tiny frames. Both had the BClash Hot 716s, the 75s, KK 820s from their Tiny 7x & the 85s, the KK 8520s from their Tiny 8. I used a mix of what ever was on sale with the AKK/WolfWhoop AIO 200mW switchables, and a couple Boldclash 25mW cam/vtx/canopies & KK canopies on all of them. Every one of my Beecore/Silverware boards out performed, out flew and stayed in the air longer than their B03 brothers 

. . . plus, ain't nothin like flying a Silverware Whoop. It's like pulling out "Old Trusty" to go flying. They just seem so tuned in to how the thing flies, and almost anticipates what I'm gonna do. As superb as the B03s fly, the Silverware just seems to take it up a couple levels, and I can get away with even more crazy ash Whoop stuff without even thinking about it. Those boards came out about a month before I was going to sacrifice a B03 board & try the Silverware flash . . . but buying all those BS boards also left me with a lot more B03 boards left too. You should really like your Silverware Whoop.

Wierd you mentioned brushled, I got the nostalgia jones a little bit ago, and picked up  three Inductrix boards with that stupid tiny 1.25 batt connector the size that the motor plugs use. With all the Whoops I've had, I'd never tried an Inductrix. 

I also picked up an  Alien Whoop Silverware board, " Best in class flight controller running NotFastEnuf Silverware firmware," no onboard receiver. It doesn't come with one, but you still need to pick the board to match what receiver you want to use. I guess they have different versions with different receivers setups. I got the Frsky setup & will use one of NewBees >1g FRsky Beececevier. They even have an ELRS version. I thought it can be set up for 2S too with some firmware changes, and was only $15, Also bought a  Happymodel Turtlebee F3 brushed with an onboard DSMX for around $25 shipped, so if your board doesn't workout, there are some good options still around, and at a tolerable price. 

This should be an interesting project(s) coming up, and I like the way you bring your creations along, and post the big building steps & first flights. Keep it going !!

Thanks! I’m hoping to be pleasantly surprised by this little bugger. I’m also hoping to get it in the air tomorrow evening, and then get started on a 75mm brushless build in between flights.

With new bushing Boldclash 703/15kvs ? Really interesting to see how that goes . . . [insert fingers crossed icon here]

I kinda just want to leave mine in their boxes, but it's always tempting when I come across one in a thread or a vid . . .

The micro sd card in my tx16s decided to die tonight. That's not really surprising- it's a known issue, and because of that, I keep regular backups of the sd card.

I'm honestly surprised it lasted two years.
Anyhow, this tx only needs a 256mb micro sd, but, the smallest spare I have is 32gb. Bit of a waste, but not really if it keeps me in the air.

Anyhow, back to the build.
Dude, small things are hard to work on. I'm used to building things heavy, where I've got so much thrust that 10g, 20g, 30g+ isn't really gonna make a damn bit of difference.

I've got no problem soldering the tiny things- it's the having to stop and think, "how much weight is this gonna add? 'cause 1g is gonna make a difference in how it flies."

Since I'm trying to keep things light, the AIO cam is being held in place with some minty fresh dental floss. Tying a bit of floss around it seemed like it would be lighter than blobbing a bunch of hot glue. Speaking of AIO cams, I need to dig through my spare parts boxes and see if I have any other cheap AIO cam/vtx options. I pulled out two for this build- one doesn't transmit video. The other one that I'm installing in this bird doesn't transmit anywhere near the band or channel that the leds say it should be.

On that note, if any of you have some old cheap aio vtx/cams collecting dust, please pm me- I'd like to take them off your hands and put them to use.



That 3d printed cam mount is super stringy. My prints have been getting crappier and crappier lately- it might be time for a new nozzle, or I might need to take a torch to it and burn out residual junk.

This board has a 2.25A 5v bec, and I've connected my rx to it- but I'm going to connect my aio cam to my main battery in, because this board doesn't have osd- so hopefully by wiring it up this way I'll be able to get battery voltage via the aio cam's native osd. (edit- nope.)

I wasn't really sure what to do with the motor wires. I wasn't okay with them just hanging loose- that's just asking for them to snag on something in a crash and pull loose. The motor wires weren't long enough to wrap around a strut/support. I decided to use some kapton tape on the lower half of the motors to take up the slack.



ELRS rx is being held in place with a bit of 3m VHB double sided tape. I have no strain relief on my main ph2.0 power connector. I don't like that, but, there isn't a good place to zip tie it to, and it's not like this thing is gonna hit something with the force that my larger builds will. Still, I don't like it.
Meh. My ph2.0 connector is a bit long. I could probably save half a gram or a gram by making it half as long- but without strain relief, I'd rather it had some slack.




Alright, we're at 20g dry, 28g wet. I have no idea if that's a good weight for a 65mm brushed build, or if I did my usual heavy build. I can say that this is the lightest bird I've ever built.




I dunno if you can tell from this lofi video, but, it certainly doesn't fly like the gutless brushed quads I've flown in the past.


Whelp, it's fun as hell to fly, but my video is absolute shit. My goggles are on r2 because that's where I get the cleanest video, but, this little aio vtx/cam doesn't transmit raceband, so... I dunno.
I've got no visual indicator of when my battery is getting low. I have to pay attention to my throttle and land when it seems like it's taking significantly more throttle than it should. I tried setting low voltage cutoff via stick gestures, but I'm not 100% sure that stick gestures are working like they should. I'm also not 100% sure that my channel settings are correct, or that I know what each channel does. I might need to spend some more time going through the config file and then recompile it.

Next up will be a 75mm brushless build. I haven't decided on motors- it's gonna use some boldclash 0703 10000kv, 12000kv, or some NBD 0802 20000kv. Or maybe some HM 0802's. I feel like those lower kv boldclash should be able to handle 2s, so I might need to make a 75mm 1s with the NBD's or HM's, and a 75mm 2s with the boldclash.

I signed up for this year's International Game of Whoop competition, so I need to throw together multiple whoops. One of the requirements is that the whoop has prop guards/ducts, and as of right now, my only built quad that has guards/ducts is this 65mm brushed build. I don't know what the challenges are going to be, so I figure I should probably have multiple birds to choose from. I should be able to build quite a few with what I've got on my shelf. I've also got some prop guards of various sizes that I can toss onto some of my open prop builds. I'd really like to make my 2" Jitterbug build suitable for this competition, but I dunno if I can fit any prop guards on it. Maybe I can trim some 2" props down and make it work without losing too much thrust.

[quote pid='194235' dateline='1681368969']

I signed up for this year's International Game of Whoop competition, so I need to throw together multiple whoops. One of the requirements is that the whoop has prop guards/ducts, and as of right now, my only built quad that has guards/ducts is this 65mm brushed build. I don't know what the challenges are going to be, so I figure I should probably have multiple birds to choose from. I should be able to build quite a few with what I've got on my shelf. I've also got some prop guards of various sizes that I can toss onto some of my open prop builds. I'd really like to make my 2" Jitterbug build suitable for this competition, but I dunno if I can fit any prop guards on it. Maybe I can trim some 2" props down and make it work without losing too much thrust.
[/quote]

Nice you got it flying! Yeah those brushed motors have some decent power for sure. 

I did IGOW for 2 seasons and it's pretty fun. It'll really help you learn how to do certain tricks and you'll become a better pilot a lot quicker than you would flying on your own as it forces you to complete a challenge within a week lol. Always have a backup whoop as well otherwise you could very well miss a deadline to turn in your video submission if you have a whoop down for repairs.

I think the rules state that it needs to be a traditional ducted frame up to 85mm. I think you can do 2s as well. I don't think the jitterbug will qualify unfortunately. So get that 75mm built next!

Hi Lemony,

Thanks for starting this thread. Yeah, I also started with 65mm framed 
tiny whoop sized quads; yep, in the house. In fact, I still fly them when
I am flying inside and like them for indoors. They fit the space and just work. 
Not much to do with them and easy to repair. I still have a couple of dozen 
and tons of spare parts. 

It will be interesting to see how things progress. 

iFly 

iFly- thanks! I don’t know why I wasn’t building and flying whoops over the winter instead of flying 3” birds in the dark.

Lukeman- this years IGOW requirements are:
-ducts/prop guards
-less than 100mm diagonal motor to motor size
-props smaller than 2.5”
-1s or 2s, max charge 4.35v per cell
-0 to 70 degree camera angle
-other misc stuff

Sounds like they’ve opened it up to larger whoops since you last did it?

Welcome to the Whoop side of the Force . . . you will grow stronger as you delve deeper into it's secrets . . . 

plus, they're still a helluva lotta fun whoopin through the house with the brushed 65s, but those higher revving 716s have more than enough power to carry the FPV in a canopy to protect it, more power than I need in my house layout, short runs on a decent long course weaving around, and they'll fly for 5 minutes + - on 450s. The 615s would struggle with the weight, or flight times went stupid. That's when everybody started buying up the Santa Whoops & the Red & Blue Knights. JJRCs & Eachine. They had the 716 motors on plugs & you can power up the AIO cam from the board too. They ran on Bayang protocol, like the Boldclash.

I still have my first brushed B03 FPV 65 & it's twin with the Beecore/Silverware board. Whoopin in the house over Winter, they'll see almost as many batts as my M6 & my 65 & my Mobula & the 75 1S 802/19s, which is a flippin awesome inside 75 with tons of power & stays in the air forever, even longer than the Mobula, super light feel & like a Snapper 7 on steroids outside.

Just remember when you're deciding which direction you may want your project to turn . . . nobody can possibly have too many Whoops.  May the FWorce be with you !!

8^}

(13-Apr-2023, 08:55 PM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: iFly- thanks! I don’t know why I wasn’t building and flying whoops over the winter instead of flying 3” birds in the dark.

Lukeman- this years IGOW requirements are:
-ducts/prop guards
-less than 100mm diagonal motor to motor size
-props smaller than 2.5”
-1s or 2s, max charge 4.35v per cell
-0 to 70 degree camera angle
-other misc stuff

Sounds like they’ve opened it up to larger whoops since you last did it?

Yeah they definitely loosened up the requirements. That's awesome. Sounds like we need to make you that 2-2.5" with ducts and run a 2s build lol.

(13-Apr-2023, 08:55 PM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: iFly- thanks! I don’t know why I wasn’t building and flying whoops over the winter instead of flying 3” birds in the dark.

Lukeman- this years IGOW requirements are:
-ducts/prop guards
-less than 100mm diagonal motor to motor size
-props smaller than 2.5”
-1s or 2s, max charge 4.35v per cell
-0 to 70 degree camera angle
-other misc stuff

Sounds like they’ve opened it up to larger whoops since you last did it?

I fancy having a go at that.  How do you join/enter?

I would probably use my Beta 85 for now until I can build another 65/75mm.

Scratch that, I joined (for the lulz).

(13-Apr-2023, 09:43 PM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: I fancy having a go at that.  How do you join/enter?

I would probably use my Beta 85 for now until I can build another 65/75mm.

You can register here (also has rules and info about it):
https://www.internationalgameofwhoop.com/

The four week long preseason starts 4/20 (next week). The regular season starts 5/18. I’ll definitely be doing the preseason to get the hang of the whole thing. Looks like the first preseason week’s challenge is “hover and forward flight”.

Pretty sure I can do that.

I don’t expect to make it too far, but it’ll fun learning new tricks that I probably wouldn’t have attempted or heard about otherwise.

Yeah I see orbits are on one of the weeks. I have no skill in them at all. Could be fun to learn.

Wonder what the tricks will be. I struggle to visualise some tricks and unless I do that I find it hard to actually do them. Oh well, hoping it will add some new tricks to my repertoire. Don't think I have a chance in hell of winning anything, but if it's fun, who cares.