Hello guest, if you read this it means you are not registered. Click here to register in a few simple steps, you will enjoy all features of our Forum.
This forum uses cookies
This forum makes use of cookies to store your login information if you are registered, and your last visit if you are not. Cookies are small text documents stored on your computer; the cookies set by this forum can only be used on this website and pose no security risk. Cookies on this forum also track the specific topics you have read and when you last read them. Please confirm whether you accept or reject these cookies being set.

A cookie will be stored in your browser regardless of choice to prevent you being asked this question again. You will be able to change your cookie settings at any time using the link in the footer.

Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Brushed 65mm whoop and probably some brushless 65/75mm whoops
#16
That’s how I’m approaching it.

I figure even once I fail out, I’ll keep trying the weekly challenges on my own.

Hopefully there is No Talk Trick Tutorials available for all of the tricks. Big Grin
Dangerous operations.

Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about.
I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
Reply
Login to remove this ad | Register Here
#17
This pile of bits will hopefully end up being a 2s 75mm.

[Image: N4Sn53Ql.jpg]

It’s an old 1-2s JHEMCU beecore f4- apparently this board is absolute crap and likes to burn out mosfets on 2s. Hopefully I won’t have that problem. I’ll be tossing a capacitor on it, an xt30, and maybe a 95% motor limit. If this aio dies, I’ve got another 2s aio from ph2t that might work- I think it just needs a replacement 5v regulator or maybe a mosfet or two.

Motors will be old boldclash 0703 12000kv. Man, these motors are a pia to rebuild. They don’t have c or e clips. They have this stupid press washer type thing.

I’ve got a couple spare press washers and bushings (thanks, Brian!) so hopefully I can fix the motors that are trying to lose their bells.

I don’t know what those tri-blade props on them are, but, those are the only three in good shape that I have- so they’ll be removed. The only 1mm shaft 40mm props I have are the crappy bi-blades that come on a moblite7, so I’ll be using those. 

Nothing about this build is ideal, but, I’m using what I’ve got. I’m kinda regretting giving away most of my brushed and brushless whoop gear- but not really, ‘cause I know those things helped get other people into the hobby, and I wasn’t going to fly them… until now, when I’m trying to get a number of builds ready for IGOW4. Tongue
Dangerous operations.

Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about.
I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
[-] The following 2 users Like Lemonyleprosy's post:
  • Brian_OH, iFly4rotors
Reply
#18
I did a double check, and my Boldclash 703s are the 15,000kvs, and those were the stock motors from my B06. I do remember a couple different versions of those, and one kv was for that "Not a Whoop" brushless micro that I hardly heard anything about. The Boldclash motors work with all the KK 40mm props from their brushed Tiny 7, and the Beta 75s, and are the same as the props on the Mobula & the HM 702-3 , 802 motors.

Should be kool to see a Boldclash rising from the ashes again !
[-] The following 2 users Like Brian_OH's post:
  • Lemonyleprosy, iFly4rotors
Reply
#19
It might even get this boldclash canopy and cam/vtx. Big Grin

[Image: uwYTYpol.jpg]

As far boldclash motors, I’ve got…
0703 12000kv
0703 10000kv
0603 16000kv

None of those are high enough kv for me to want to run them on 1s.
Well, maybe the 0603 on a 65mm build, but, I like my motors to spin faster.
Dangerous operations.

Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about.
I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
Reply
#20
?? What did the 603s come on? I don't remember anything Boldclash brushless with those tiny motors, and don't remember a 65 brushless from them either . . . or I would have got one !! 8^} I thought they just had the B06 & the kinda open prop thing . . . I barely remember it, just didn't seem interesting to me, but had 703s I thought. I know Boldclash was pretty early with their little brushless motors for their Whoops, and made a decent variety for a small company, but they also had the super tiny 1.0 PH connectors when everybody else, cept Blade, was using, and still are using the 1.25s, so it's change the connectors, or solder the motors on . . . which defeats the purpose of the plugs in the first place. 

Those B06 canopies are great & my go to till there were no more to go to, but was also using the KK canopies, which have been what I've been using mostly since on all my Whoops, and work great and get a lot of air flow through the canopy, especially the ones with the open stripe on top.

I don't doubt the 12s & 10s can run on 2S, but I don't remember the B06 being able to run 2S, and just had the single PH2 batt connector. I never opened mine up to check out the board, but don't remember anyone talking about 2S on a B06. I know you're using a different board, and yea, that low kv, I'd want 2S too.

These 802s might have enough revs for ya . . .
[-] The following 1 user Likes Brian_OH's post:
  • Lemonyleprosy
Reply
#21
Yeah, I would fly the crap out of those 802 30000kv’s if I had them. Big Grin

I’ve got a couple boldclash boards, and yeah, they are all strictly 1s. If it wasn’t for that, I’d go ahead and use one and do a proper boldclash build. But, I want to run 2s, and I want an f4 mcu so that I can put Quicksilver on it.

I’ve got no clue what those 0603’s came off of, they came in one my purchases of random boxes of used whoop bits a couple years ago. I think I’ll slap them into a 65mm frame and see how they do.

The one in the bottom left needs to have it’s shaft shoved deeper into the bell:
[Image: D8X2bdNl.jpg]
Dangerous operations.

Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about.
I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
Reply
#22
My last few nights have been a whole bunch of frustration.

First, I built a 2s 75mm. No matter what I did, I couldn’t get the board to recognize my ELRS rx. I tried everything, from inverted crsf via sbus, to a pull up resistor, to ELRS v3.3 true sbus inverted and not, etc. The one uart with an rx pad available just doesn’t want to play. Alright. I’ll do some probing on this board later, and maybe wire straight into the damn mcu.

So, I moved on to a 1s 75mm build… %{#%#*^, a vtx that was working no longer works, and I destroyed two different f3 boards. I somehow managed to lift the video in pad on one, and the video out pad on the other.

I’m gonna hafta wire directly to the osd chip if I want to use either of these boards, or bypass osd, or, I need a new lightweight aio fc.

What the hell, man. It’s not like I don’t know how to solder.

No flights tonight, and no successful builds. Meh.
I should have made use of the daylight while I had it and flown my built birds, but, I really thought that I could get a new bird in the air with just another few minutes of work…… and another few, and another few…
[Image: DAKWA4Zl.jpg]
Dangerous operations.

Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about.
I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
Reply
#23
That sucks, maybe the soldering tip needs replacing? Which board is not taking the ELRS? I have some old Frsky whoops and was thinking to add ELRS to them, but having second thoughts. Onboard ELRS is just so much easier, cleaner, and lighter too.
Reply
#24
(30-Apr-2023, 03:40 PM)mstc Wrote: That sucks, maybe the soldering tip needs replacing? Which board is not taking the ELRS? I have some old Frsky whoops and was thinking to add ELRS to them, but having second thoughts. Onboard ELRS is just so much easier, cleaner, and lighter too.

Yeah, the tip probably needs replacing. It’s a year or two old, and I solder pretty much 3 nights a week. It’s had quite a bit of use. It’s at the point where even after using hard rosin and copper to clean it, solder doesn’t want to stick to it for long.

The board that absolutely refuses to recognize an ELRS rx is an old JHEMCU beecore f4 (1-2s, 5a aio).
Dangerous operations.

Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about.
I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
Reply
#25
I threw together an 85mm whoop tonight.
Haven’t flown it other than a couple hover tests (one motor kept stuttering, so I increased startup power- seems to be good now, but we’ll find out for sure this weekend when I try to properly fly it).

BetaFPV 85mm frame.

I was planning on just doing a straight transplant of all of the guts from my broken HM Bassline build, but, that didn’t work out. One of the 1103 motors on the Bassline has a bent shaft,

So, this 85mm build got the DarwinFPV 15a ELRS aio, the I don’t remember what vtx, the ant nano, the lumenier axii vtx antenna, and the… maybe crux3 canopy? from my Bassline build.

The 1103 motors wouldn’t have worked on this build anyhow- they’re not tall enough for the props to clear the prop guard supports.

I used some no name 1104 6000kv motors. When I say no name, I mean legit no name- there are no markings on these motors. I pulled them off of a furibee… dinosaur something.

Even with those 1104 motors, I still needed to add some spacers to give the motors enough height for the props to clear. I cut up the landing gear from the furibee to make spacers. Apparently this BetaFPV 85mm frame wants 1105 or 1106 motors- but that’s unnecessary for 2” props.

Anyhow, here she is. I put GF 2035 quad blade props on it to start. Gemfan is dumb and doesn’t use the standard naming system for props, so while 2035 should be 2”, 3.5” pitch props, they’re actually 2”, 2.43” pitch props. They’re probably going to get replaced with some proper 2”, 3.5” pitch tri-blade props, but, we’ll see. I don’t really know what these motors can handle, because, y’know, absolutely no markings on them and no datasheet. 

I still need to finish throwing together a 75mm 1s whoop and a 75mm 2s whoop, but, I’m still pissed off about lifting pads on two f3 aio boards, and not being able to figure out how to get that one 2s f4 aio board to recognize a receiver.

This 85mm build is running Quicksilver, because I still haven’t learned how to tune, and when it comes to defaults and presets, Quicksilver just flies so much damn better than Betaflight,
[Image: UPDZSKbl.jpg]
[Image: PM7sivtl.jpg]
[Image: P8Ks0AYl.jpg]
[Image: y3FD5KMl.jpg]
[Image: LR9A8DBl.jpg]
Dangerous operations.

Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about.
I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
[-] The following 2 users Like Lemonyleprosy's post:
  • mstc, iFly4rotors
Reply
#26
I considered putting 1207 5200kv motors on this bugger, but, the 1207 motors I have need 4s, 2.5” high pitch props or 3” medium pitch props to shine, and even then, they suck juice like a mf-er. On a 2s 2”, they’d just be unnecessary weight.

I have some 1106 motors, but they’re lower kv- and I’m trying to make this thing fly good on 2s, because igow rules say 2s max. If I wasn’t building it for igow, well, I’d be building open prop.

Still, I could replace that big ol’ antenna on this 85mm build with a dipole and save a gram or two…
Dangerous operations.

Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about.
I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
Reply
#27
Hi Lemony,

Have you ever tried using round brass Male/Female standoff columns screwed into the motors
and then screw the mount bolts into the spacers; like I did on the Rescue-1 build. The round 
brass standoffs are very thin so they should clear the center easily enough. I am assuming 
that the motors are drilled and threaded for M2 bolts.

Yeah, the brass standoffs come in two types: 1) the standard hex and 2) round (thinner).

Later, iFly   High Five
______________________________________
My BUILDS  ||   My INDEX   ||  Parts Guide  <-- Download


[-] The following 1 user Likes iFly4rotors's post:
  • Lemonyleprosy
Reply
#28
Pretty, matching color motors/props. What 3S pack do you plan on running?
And as for 1207 motors... maybe you'll get a minute of flight time (or less as the whoop will have entered the stratosphere)
[-] The following 1 user Likes mstc's post:
  • Lemonyleprosy
Reply
#29
iFly, that’s a good idea, I’ve seen you use brass standoffs like that before, but I always forget when I’m doing my own builds. I think all my brass stand-offs are m3 though, or have a threaded section that is too long.

Mstc- this bird will be strictly 2s. The motors should be able to handle 3s, but I built this specifically to compete in igow4, and one of the requirements for that is 2s max cell count. For my usual flying, I’ll be reaching for my 3s 2” open props builds to fly long before I reach for a 2” with prop guards. I crash too hard and often to keep prop guards in one piece.
Dangerous operations.

Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about.
I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
Reply
#30
One of those no name motors is dead. It just twitches when I try to run it up.

I switched motors, and it ran up fine- so it’s not an esc issue.

Okay, I swapped that no name 1104 6000kv motor out for an hglrc flame 1105 6000kv motor.
Got rid of the spacer for that motor, because with an 1105 I’ve got enough clearance for the prop to not hit the prop guard supports.

Can’t really tell from the pictures because the replacement motor is also purple and black, but, it was the front right- I moved the rear right no name 1104 to the front, and put the 1105 on the right rear.

[Image: JNUtzZcl.jpg]
[Image: ZsgP3hdl.jpg]
[Image: MPasBawl.jpg]

Got a few good flights in.

But, then I started losing screws on crashes.
[Image: wQj4ec6l.jpg]

Cool, I’ll use some bigger screws, whatever.

But, after a few hard crashes, one of my motors decided to switch directions.
Wtf, yo? I’ll plug back in and reverse it, but, I’m not really sure why it decided to change direction.
It doesn’t make sense to me at all.

There’s no bridging on motor pads. No short on motor wiring. I don’t know what the hell could cause a motor to change direction after a crash.
Dangerous operations.

Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about.
I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
[-] The following 1 user Likes Lemonyleprosy's post:
  • iFly4rotors
Reply


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Discussion small (65/75mm) digital whoops, managing flight times ph2t 24 676 25-Jun-2024, 02:21 AM
Last Post: ph2t
  3D Print Tiny Whoop Gate KENN 2 101 20-Jun-2024, 01:01 AM
Last Post: KENN
  Build 35mm CF frame pusher whoop ph2t 8 244 19-Jun-2024, 10:02 PM
Last Post: drumgod
  Help 75mm Tinywhoop wobbles/shakes/jello when using 3 or 4 blade props fpvgeten 6 200 18-Jun-2024, 07:38 PM
Last Post: fpvgeten
  How do you store your Micros and Whoops? Cyberess 19 761 17-May-2024, 01:36 AM
Last Post: brettbrandon


Login to remove this ad | Register Here