I'm obsessed with these 'lil buggers at the moment.


I just love how they turn on a dime and turn small spaces into serious rippage arenas (at scale of course!).

These are all 1S walksnail rigs, running different setups as I try to figure this scale out.   It's winter here in AU and pretty bloody cold in Melbourne so these pushers are getting the most action.

From left to right:

• 31mm pusher on the nanofly16 CF frame.   Betafpv 0702 30000kV motors using meteor65 air ducts.   JHEMCU gsf405-bmi 5A aio (rare these days and $$).
  
• 40mm whoop on meteor75 air frame.   Rcinpower 1102 22000kV motors.   Betafpv 12A V3 aio.
  
• 35mm pusher on fractal75 CF frame.   Rcinpower 0802 27000kV motors using meteor65 pro ducts.   Betafpv 5A aio.
  

All of them are running the 1S vtx, all heatsinks removed.  Yes it does mean I have to have a fan on it basically all the time when it's on the bench or armed, ready to fly.   You can't do these whoops and have any real performance with all the heatsinks on the walksnail vtx intact.   It is just too heavy.

Haven't built (small) whoops in ages and have been really impressed by the improvements from the motors to the frames.  The ducts on the betafpv frames (65air, 65pro, 75air) are really freakin good, I'm super impressed as to how resilient they are.   The motors are another thing, the speed and quality of them is crazy.  Even the good old betafpv motors have come a long way.  The 0702 dual bb are very smooth.   

The rcinpower 0802 motors are tiny beasts.    These things, I swear.....   Gold/red is the 27000kV, pink/blue are the 25000kV variants.  The are notchy as hell for such small motors.   


On the lower kV motors(pictured) I tried using thicker gauge wire to try and dump more current.  I also increased the gauge on the battery cable as well.  This resulted in me smoking a 5A aio, it was one of my jhemcu gsf405 5A aios that are rare to get these days.   So shit to that.  

I've found the main advantages of the pusher config with CF frame as this scale is durability and tune.  You can really up the PIDs to make it a dialed in setup.   The ducts don't deform and the CF frame only has to deal with an AUW that is at most (including batt) 45g so it doesn't break.

The camera is exposed and I've killed one lens already.  Thankfully I learned that the nano camera lens is a drop in for the lite camera lens so I was able to repair it easily enough.  I might re-think the canopy setup on the whoops but I do love that style.


Being able to just whoop around at home, going fast through the garden beds, ripping down the driveway or hallways, lol.   It's just so much fun.   No large quads can turn as quickly as these things and whilst the top speed is nothing to really speak about the shear proximity to which one flys, and flys hard is where the excitement comes in.   These things can pull off the feeling of going fast rather well. 

To get the most out of it you need to strip the vtx down to the bare minimum.   Here the 1s V3 vtx has been decased and the heatsink from the main soic removed as well.   All the pusher configs require the FC to be mounted with the usb facing up as there is no access from underneath.   This means the vtx is on the lower part of the stack.  Good for durability but bad for airflow.


This setup really helps keep the vtx cool.   The elrs antenna sticking out the front shows the orientation with the main soic getting some airflow.   Both pushers are setup like this.   The whoop has the vtx on top, with the soic facing up (see tree pic above).

Both pushers have an offset to them so the battery can fit between the ducts, level with the motors/props.   Something about being aligned to the source of thrust I think, yeah I feel this is contributing to the handling.   Makes for a tidy battery setup and is crash resistant (battery doesn't move!).


A lovely, aggressive stance.


I had issues with this betafpv 5A FC and a noisy gyro.  Couldn't get it to fly smooth at all.  Tried different BF builds all the way back to 4.3 and still no luck.  Ended up installing quicksilver on this 35mm pusher and it runs very well.


Yes, plastic stack screws that are secured by the TPU battery holder - and it still flys a treat!   Gotta love modern software on modern flight controllers.  Amazing what shit they can account for!

Will post some video soon, trying different spots as I'm sure everyone is sick of my front yard, lol.

For the 35mm pusher did you print the battery holder yourself? I need some 1S 300mAh holders and cannot find any.

Yes I designed the battery mounts myself in tinkercad.  Pretty simple setup.  I have one for 300mAh stick batts and one for 500mAh batts.

Here is the 300mAh holder on the 31mm pusher.



Would you like the stl or a tinkercad share link?

Thanks for the offer.  I don't have a 3D printer or even access to one.  Thus, I would like to simply buy a 1S 300mAh holder.  From somebody.

ripping around at home.

(19-Jun-2024, 03:41 PM)ph2t Wrote: ripping around at home.

Awesome rip on an awesome ripper! Who would have believed that this would be possible 10 years ago: such image, such small size!

(19-Jun-2024, 04:12 AM)segler999 Wrote: Thanks for the offer.  I don't have a 3D printer or even access to one.  Thus, I would like to simply buy a 1S 300mAh holder.  From somebody.

Man, segler we have all been there: need a print, find a way of getting said print, rinse and repeat... many times.

Couple viable choices as I see it:

1) get it printed from someone that can - can do right now
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=fpv+3d+printing+sevices

2) get a 3d printer, learn how to use it and enjoy the freedom - learning curve/time tho

from one pilgrim to another, enjoy the ride... 

(19-Jun-2024, 04:12 AM)segler999 Wrote: Thanks for the offer.  I don't have a 3D printer or even access to one.  Thus, I would like to simply buy a 1S 300mAh holder.  From somebody.

I can do a little CAD and I have two very old first generation 3D Printers that I built from scratch. I can print TPU on one of the printer. The other one needs a major overhaul.

So for things I need I either can draw up the design on CAD or find a public design on places like Thingiverse and I email Brain3D to see if they can print for me. 

https://brain3d.com/pages/fpv-drone-products

So far they have printed quite a few items for me. They are in Florida I think and very friendly and easy to work with. I started using them when I was looking for canopies for my AOS T3 tooth pick frames. 

Then Drumgod got me to draw a spacer for the gimbals on his Radiomaster Boxer. Before Drumgod sent me samples he printed out I asked Brain3D if they can print some for me just for fun. They did and they look very good.

So yes, there are quite a few 3D printer floating around in the world and many 3D printing services. Just find yourself a design and have them printed.

Not having access to a 3D printer is not an issue anymore. Of course learning to use a 3D printer is another hobby in itself. So you you need another hobby.......

Wow, that video looks like it's literally on rails!

The other day I noticed you can get a basic SOVOL printer, running Klipper firmware, for $250 on Amazon... I think the Bambu A1 Mini is getting down in that range too. The newer printers seem much easier to set up and operate.