06-Oct-2020, 05:56 AM (This post was last modified: 10-Feb-2021, 01:51 AM by the.ronin.)
I finally got around to updating my old Betaflight Tuning guide. I'd tuned a handful of new builds both freestyle and racing since I wrote that. And even if I hadn't, wow that old guide looks like a complete mess now that I look at it lol.
This one is much more to the point and process oriented. There is less on the pontification and more on the practical advice ...
I've gotten so much out of this forum I figured this was the least I could do to give back. If it gets one dude or dudette to enjoy a well tuned quad as much as I have been, then it was well worth it.
[edit] Just *please* don't set your motors on fire. [/edit]
Enjoy!!
CHANGE LOG * UPDATE 02/09/2021 to version 2.4 -- Updated links and logo. * UPDATE 10/10/2020 to version 2.3 -- Clarified reliance on blackbox in the title and introduction. * UPDATE 10/6/2020 to version 2.3 -- Damn you OCD!!!! Last one I swear. For today. * UPDATE 10/6/2020 to version 2.2 -- Sorry made a few more OCD changes lol. * UPDATE 10/6/2020 to version 2.1 -- Incorporated feedback from members and corrected some typos and layout errors.
Maybe one little note: in the beginning when you're instructing how to set up the RPM filters, you're telling to set the PID loop freq to 8 kHz and DSHOT600. That is correct for F7 boards, but many (if not all) F4 boards might struggle with this as they're not powerful enough. For example my Mamba F4 Mk.II wasn't able to keep the 8 kHz PID and DSHOT600 with the RPM filters on, and while the quad flew, it didn't fly well. Reducing it to 4 kHz and DSHOT300 as recommended for F4 boards solved it and the quad is flying great since.
Thanks guys!! I don't have a fraction of the brain nor patience like many of you to make meaningful contributions to this forum so when something works for me like this tuning approach and it is well received, it means a lot!
And thank you very much for the feedback! I am about to upload a v2.1 reflecting your comments.
(06-Oct-2020, 08:25 AM)izzy26 Wrote: Maybe one little note: in the beginning when you're instructing how to set up the RPM filters, you're telling to set the PID loop freq to 8 kHz and DSHOT600. That is correct for F7 boards, but many (if not all) F4 boards might struggle with this as they're not powerful enough.
A "Pro Tip" has been added to check the CLI tasks and ensure 8kHz is registered for the PID loop otherwise to bring it down to 4kHz particularly for F4 FCs. Thanks izzy!!
(06-Oct-2020, 09:06 AM)Banelle Wrote: Does the method (or at least the starting values) change for different prop sizes?
Generally, it does not. I've used this method on my 3 inch Acrobrat and my 7 inch Super G Plus both using 4S. What changes is the P-D ratio. I noted this distinction in the new version. Thanks Banelle!!
(06-Oct-2020, 02:02 PM)coyote_dc5 Wrote: One question: is the old version applicable for BF4.1 and new version 4.2?
Yes. As an example, the filter settings are different in 4.1. With that said, the old version is a lot more theory and a lot less practical steps. You'll want to go with the steps in the new version using the settings from the old version. Thanks coyote!!
I fly a lot. And I'd like to think I'm pretty good as far as usually getting the quad to do what I want it to do, when i want it to do it. I've always wanted to really tune my fleet. But I've never tuned a thing.
This sir will change that.
Well done.
Deal
Here's the Deal
10" 6S FR10-G Long Range, 5" 6S Rooster, 5" 6S Badger, 5" 6S QAV-S, 5" 4S Badger, 5" 4S Phreakstyle Slam, 5" 6S Yema, 5" 4S Stark, 3" 4S Gecko, and a 3S 2.5" Tadpole, all of which are Crossfire. Tinyhawk, Tinyhawk S, and a DJI Spark. And projects on the bench....
If you guys do use this please let me know what you think. My concern was maybe I was getting lucky with a few builds when I wrote the first guide. But having done a lot more builds now each tuned using this method, I have to think it's a pretty solid process.
09-Oct-2020, 10:27 AM (This post was last modified: 09-Oct-2020, 10:28 AM by coyote_dc5.)
Been through the whole doc and it's helped me put my PID understanding building blocks together in my head so thanks. I think the doc should include an explanation on physical quad behaviour as opposed to just black box outputs. Not everyone will have the recording feature and may wish to tune either LOS or FPV and will watch for certain characteristics. How easy is it to add in ... To high FF will do this on a roll, flip etc too low Ps will drift, too high Ds will cause it to isolate etc
You bring up a good point in that my previous guide was specifically titled to refer to blackbox. In the next revision I will change the title to make this clear. The thing is I am a firm believer in using hard data to explain things and so this guide was always meant to make use of blackbox. As such, tuning by senses would be outside the scope of this guide, since the whole point of it is to focus on the empirical data and not (UAV Tech's term, not mine lol) "the force."
I guess the good news is that today's flight controller software has come such a long way, that most pilots could (and do) fly the default Betaflight settings and not be any worse for wear. Back in the day, you really knew when your tune was off. P term oscillations were not these super high frequency trills but defined shakes you could very easily spot. These days, trying to spot gyro overshoot is practically impossible even for the trained eye. That's why blackbox is so useful. Frankly, I'd never consider a flight controller without some form of blackbox logging capability.
(09-Oct-2020, 07:02 PM)the.ronin Wrote: Frankly, I'd never consider a flight controller without some form of blackbox logging capability.
Does your Mobula6 HD have blackbox logging capabilities?
I guess you're really talking about quads you build yourself. Sadly most of the AIO boards for micro quads have no onboard blackbox logging capabilities. You would have to buy an Airbot OpenLarger device and find a spare UART to wire it up to.