Posts: 17 Threads: 8 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 1 Joined: Aug 2023 Reputation: 0 15-Aug-2023, 01:26 AM (This post was last modified: 15-Aug-2023, 01:33 AM by hananelroe.) ![[-]](https://intofpv.com/images/collapse.png) • Posts: 2,369 Threads: 74 Likes Received: 1,336 in 996 posts Likes Given: 771 Joined: Apr 2022 Reputation: 41 So You can get an upgrade board for the Literadio 2 SE that takes it up to ELRS 2. You would be advised to do so. https://www.ebay.com/itm/284970103153 The PDB, single esc will be ummed and arred at by the others, but if it works, I see no problem with it. Same with the motors. VTX / Camera, you can get a caddx ant nano (or similar) and cheap vtx for less than the one you specified. Eachine ROTG02 could be replaced with BetaFPV VR01 goggles, VR009 goggles. If you can afford it, the Eachine EV800D would be a better set of goggles. But the other two can be had or clones of them can be had, for about $45 on ebay. Try Not, Do or Do Not
- Yoda
• Posts: 1,727 Threads: 60 Likes Received: 1,000 in 726 posts Likes Given: 96 Joined: Jan 2023 Reputation: 51 Those motors are a little small to lift a 4" frame and the props you selected will not fit motor or frame. Separate ESC+pdb adds extra weight, it is good for learning about drones, but modern drones now have integrated or AIO controllers. You did not list any flight controller in your list, you would need one to fly the drone well. Some AIOs will have flight controller, 4xESCs, VTX, and RX in a single board, and would be cheaper than getting all the components separately. Downside is if any part breaks (and they are more delicate/fragile) then you have to replace the whole board.
If you are going for the building experience, there are probably some budget kits that you could buy with matching components. If you just want something cheap to fly, maybe consider the Darwinfpv Baby Ape v2, it is less than $75 shipped from China for a pnp version (add your own RX). It uses the same motors that you listed, but it runs 3" propellers. Posts: 5,851 Threads: 47 Likes Received: 2,774 in 2,236 posts Likes Given: 7,601 Joined: Jul 2019 Reputation: 97 Hi Hananelroe, The very first question is: Do you have anything yet? If you want to fly, then I agree with mstc, just buy a cheap BNF. The truth is that building is definitely NOT cheaper than buying. It just isn't. First, let's take a look at what you need to fly FPV. 1) Goggles (or monitor). Yes, you could use that little cell phone receiver, however, for a few dollars more you can get a set of real goggles that will work much better. 2) Radio control Transmitter. These are somewhat protocol specific. The current trend is to use ELRS as a Radio Control link protocol. The Transmitter and Rx receiver must match in order to work. 3) An aircraft. In this case a quadcopter. 4) Batteries for the quad, the transmitter, and the goggles (generally not included). 5) Battery charger for all the batteries. 6) An assortment of tools. If you build, a soldering iron is a necessity. Where you get things matters. If you are buying new gear from a reputable vendor, then everything will likely work as expected and will be returnable if it doesn't. When you buy used gear, then you just take your chances. If it works, great; if it doesn't, then you are just out of luck. The first thing would be to decide on an RC Link protocol and buy a Transmitter. This will determine what Rx receiver will be needed in the quad(s) and will work with pretty much all of the quads that you buy or build. Next, get a cheap set of real goggles which will work much better than any type of other "rig". On the cheap, you will be using analog video. All analog goggles will work will all analog video. I suggest that you buy goggles since you will need to have both hands free to control the quad. Plus, it is hard to see a phone or monitor if you are out in the sun. Believe me, I have tried. It is also challenging to get all that gear set up to be useable. The cellphone idea is good for an observer, but NOT
for the pilot. The next thing to consider is what you will do with the quad. Do you want to do fancy ACRO stunts, do you want to cruise around, do you want to do cinematic flights? Basically, what type of performance are you looking for? Also, what type of space do you have to fly in? The fastest and easiest way to get in the air is to buy a quad that is already built such as a Bind aNd Fly (BNF) or a Ready To Fly (RTF). Buying something new pretty much ensures that it will work. If you buy something used, then you take your chances. Buying is more cost effective than building, it just is. I just bought a Darwin Baby Ape 3-inch quad fully assembled for $ 70 USD. A quad can not be built for that price. It almost doesn't matter what size of quad you build, it will be much more than that. I won't tell you why most of the stuff in your list is either not compatible or will be challenging in one way or another. I will say that the frame is the only thing that I would consider out of the whole list. 1) Frame. Pick a frame based on the prop size such as 3" or 4" just be sure that the frame has mounting for desired FC package. 2) Flight Controller/ESC. The easiest to work with is a single board AIO (All In One) which includes the ESCs. Some boards even come with an Rx Receiver built in. Next, the choice is mounting format: Whoop style, 25.5 x 25.5 diagonal oriented, 16 x 16 square stack or AIO, 20 x 20 square stack or AIO. This is more of a personal choice since they all work the same and configure the same. It is just about mounting preference. Well, I like the "whoop" mount because I can use it in any build, but that might just be me. Finally, the rated Amps for the ESC. For a 3 or 4 inch build, a 20 to 35 amp board is plenty it all depends on the motors and the load. NOTE: If the AIO board does not include the Rx Receiver, then you will need to buy a separate Rx Receiver (that matches the transmitter). Yes, you could use individual ESCs, but why. It just makes the build harder (a lot more soldering) and offers no real advantage. You will also need a PDB and a Flight Controller board. With today's 4-in-1 ESC boards, a typical stack has 2 boards; an ESC board and a Flight Controller board. Sometimes, the stack will also include a VTX board. 3) If you are on a budget, the video system will be analog because HD digital systems are Extremely Expensive. There are two components in the video system. 1) the Camera and 2) the VTX. All analog cameras are basically the same. Yes, some have a little better resolution and there is quite a range in cost. By the way, higher price does not necessarily mean better. The VTXs are also all very similar. The two things to consider are the power output and mounting format. Generally, 200 mW is good enough for short to medium range. Some VTXs have a particular mounting pattern such as diagonal whoop, 16x16, 20x20, 30x30, or no particular mounting. Most VTXs also have SmartAudio for controlling features while in flight. 4) Now, we are down to motors. There are actually more things to consider than one might think. First, you have motor mounting format. Next, you have the propeller mounting; 1.5mm or 2mm shaft in T-Mount OR 5mm shaft. Next, you have the size both width and height. Then, you have the Kv which relates battery voltage to RPMs. A typical 4-inch quad has 1404 size motors in Kv ranges from 3500 Kv to 5000 Kv depending on the size of the battery (number of cells). I have used 1404 3950 Kv motors on 4-inch craft with both 3S and 4S batteries. When building a quad, a bit of planning goes a long way towards having a finished product that works and does what you want it to do. It is a lot more than just getting a bunch of parts and putting them together. Things are NOT universal. Components need to be selected that match correctly with other components. The following is a list of components from my Phantom-4X build which I run on 3S and 4S batteries: Frame: "Custom", any 4-inch with whoop mounting will work. FC: HIFIONRC F7 AIO 2-4S Whoop w 25A ESC <-- Don't know if still available Motors: Flywoo NIN-1404 3750kv Dave_C edition V2 ultralight VTX: Flywoo GoKu TX-Nano 450mw VTX Antenna: VAX Minion Pro Camera: CADDX Ant 4:3 silver NANO <-- Any analog camera will work. Rx Receiver: <consider ELRS> Although some of the components listed might not be available, any similar item will work. Posts: 17 Threads: 8 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 1 Joined: Aug 2023 Reputation: 0 Thanks for the incredibly elaborate reply! I have soldered before, so that's not a problem for me. About the price - it's less cheap upfront, but since you can replace parts, isn't it cheaper on the long run? About the phone vrx - I plan to use it with Google cardboard, so it's pretty much the same as goggles, I think? Here's a video about it: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yWnN4AwtHc...xlcw%3D%3D The rest of your points are very valid, thanks for your help! Of course if I said something wrong here, I'd be very happy for you to correct me • Posts: 5,851 Threads: 47 Likes Received: 2,774 in 2,236 posts Likes Given: 7,601 Joined: Jul 2019 Reputation: 97 15-Aug-2023, 06:32 PM (This post was last modified: 15-Aug-2023, 06:33 PM by iFly4rotors.) Hi Hananelroe, First, there is nothing wrong with your concepts. We all have valid opinions, just different and some more workable than others. I just hate to see someone go down a path and later wish they had been advised to go down a different one. About the price - You can replace parts on a BNF quad as well. Most FPV quads that you would be looking at use standard, off-the-shelf, parts that are the same as if you were building one. Take for example, a GEPRC Phantom Freestyle for about $ 140 USD (PyroDrone) It uses all standard parts that you would buy if you were building one. Thing is, you can NOT buy the same parts and assemble the quad for that cost. I know, I have tried. In fact, I built a Phantom clone it cost me more. Companies that sell BNF quads get parts a lot cheaper than we can because they buy in bulk or just manufacture them. The repair factor is simply not an issue. Anything on a BNF or RTF FPV quad can be repaired, modified, or upgraded. It is not any different than if you had built it. About goggles. That setup you are looking at will end up costing as much or more than a decent cheap set of goggles and will be more of a pain in the arse to actually use. Is it cute? I guess that depends. Truthfully, you are not really saving any money, it just looks like you are. Add up all the costs including the receiver, the headpiece box, and any other thing you might need. By the way, what if the phone rings? Especially right when you need to be watching the quad or performing a maneuver? Disrupted video is one of the major reasons that folks lose quads. If anything on the phone comes up that overrides the video...well...now you have to fiddle with the phone...who is flying the quad? Just give this some serious thought. I am sticking with my recommendation to buy a set of real goggles. Later, iFly  |
