Posts: 102 Threads: 20 Likes Received: 8 in 8 posts Likes Given: 77 Joined: Jan 2021 Reputation: 0 I've built two quads a 5" and 7" both esc's blown a 45a iflight and a 60a tmotor that did a test flight and lasted 1min.
I'm guessing faulty soldering.
But can someone tell me if going higher in amps makes it more bulletproof, will it last longer?
I've now ordered 10 x 60a individual esc's
I'm guessing that the bigger you go the heavier it is and obviously dearer.
I've read that someone used an 18amp esc... i was astounded.
Bardwell seems to favour 30-35amps.
Will going higher than needed make it last longer or wasting money? I HATE FRSKY!!! ![[-]](https://intofpv.com/images/collapse.png) • Posts: 731 Threads: 20 Likes Received: 490 in 341 posts Likes Given: 420 Joined: Nov 2019 Reputation: 20 07-Feb-2021, 09:12 AM (This post was last modified: 07-Feb-2021, 09:12 AM by jasperfpv.) 45A for 5" and 60A for 7" should survive your 1 min test flight. There's likely something wrong with your build to cause this.
I am using a 35A 4 in 1 ESC on a 5" 6S KISS build and it has survived multiple crashes and repeated turtle mode stuck in a tree. • Posts: 1,490 Threads: 92 Likes Received: 574 in 468 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Nov 2020 Reputation: 27 Look at a desktop i7 and its phat heatsink.
Look at an Asus gaming laptop.
Now look at Macbook Air.
Clearly, smaller/lighter = less performance, because cannot remove heat.
Good/expensive ESC make less heat. Good ESC have big FET and thick heavy PCB. Amp rating is based on fast air blowing.
Being able to fly doesn't mean good soldering. Especially if only 1 min. Im 99% sure you shorted something.
With everything unplugged, use multimeter to check for short from both + and - to each motor pad.
I was able to fly 10min+ flights with broken iFlight, all week long. Motors not hot. Battery OK. Faint buzzing. Odd lower performance. Then, after landing, sudden burst of flame. that desoldered all wires.
So yeah.
.if its not working 100%.. it will probably get worse. • Posts: 6,091 Threads: 172 Likes Received: 2,283 in 1,830 posts Likes Given: 4,718 Joined: Feb 2019 Reputation: 100 if you have a fault in the system, a higher rated esc wont prevent befor the same issue.
no need to choose a higher rated esc than the motor will draw.
on a normal flight, the ampdraw doesnt reach the peak, an average ampraw is mostly pretty low.
a good esc can handle much higher peaks for a short time than the rating which is for continious draw.
the most batteries dies or doesnt provide the current, 45a x4 is 180a, not much batteries will provide this for more than a few seconds, the 45a esc could handle more than 180a for a few seconds. something else might be the bottleneck.
what settup do you use, motors props battery and uaw? Posts: 1,490 Threads: 92 Likes Received: 574 in 468 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Nov 2020 Reputation: 27 07-Feb-2021, 12:13 PM (This post was last modified: 07-Feb-2021, 12:15 PM by romangpro.) In general, it doesnt hurt to get higher amp ESC. It should be big and heavy - unless you got cheap one that just says "60A".
**It is better to get a quality brand 40A ESC that will be reliable and have less noise than cheap one labeled 60A**
based on my experience:
7" to 9": its expensive quad. probably long range. typically 6S so lower amps. Big quad is hard to tune, so want lots of filtration.
BLHeli_32 60A - Holybro Tekko32 or HobbyWing or Mamba F60Pro. If you are mostly cruising 50A ok.
5" : 2207/2306 6S get into 30A. 4S into 40A+.
2507/2408 bigger motors 50A. Ive used couple Mamba F40 stacks and only fried one. But 50A ESC are so cheap now. Beware discount 20mm ESC - if it looks like good deal, it probably isnt.
3" and 4". Toothpick builds, you only need like 10-15A, right?
I killed 4 AIO boards. iFlight. Flywoo. JHEMCU.
Avoid 2-channel FET. Those black squares.. if there are only 12 on one side = bad. Avoid all 20A/13A ETC.
Just get JHEMCU F405 35A its like $35.
2.5"/2" Ok, here your AUW is like 30g so a 8g 35A board wont do. 99% likely your only option is 1S/2S 5A board. • Posts: 1,490 Threads: 92 Likes Received: 574 in 468 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Nov 2020 Reputation: 27 • Posts: 102 Threads: 20 Likes Received: 8 in 8 posts Likes Given: 77 Joined: Jan 2021 Reputation: 0 Thanx 4 all the replies, much appreciated, cleared up info about ESC's... 45a from a reputable manufacturer. Need to improve my soldering skills.  I HATE FRSKY!!! • Posts: 1,490 Threads: 92 Likes Received: 574 in 468 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Nov 2020 Reputation: 27 Send us what you gonna buy..
DroneMesh on youtube does noise/filtration tests.
Also, regardless which, add a lowESR close to ESC:
3" or smaller: 220uF
5" : 470uF (4S) -1000uF (6s) 35V Panasonic FM
7"+ 1000uF or bigger.
If its on end of 10-15cm XT60/XT90 cable, its no good. • Posts: 102 Threads: 20 Likes Received: 8 in 8 posts Likes Given: 77 Joined: Jan 2021 Reputation: 0 I ordered Hobbywing Skywalker 60a (delivery in a week or two)and I have been putting the cap directly onto the pads of the ESC... I HATE FRSKY!!! Posts: 102 Threads: 20 Likes Received: 8 in 8 posts Likes Given: 77 Joined: Jan 2021 Reputation: 0 (07-Feb-2021, 06:33 PM)romangpro Wrote: If its on end of 10-15cm XT60/XT90 cable, its no good. Not sure what you mean!!! I HATE FRSKY!!! • Posts: 21,165 Threads: 581 Likes Received: 8,917 in 6,597 posts Likes Given: 1,425 Joined: Jun 2018 Reputation: 786 (24-Feb-2021, 07:08 AM)Titanv11 Wrote: Not sure what you mean!!! Like this... https://www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/produ...-capacitor I disagree about it being no good. Plenty of people have had success doing this, and where there no room to fit one inside the body of the quad, having a capacitor connected via remote wires away from the board is better than having no capacitor at all. Posts: 102 Threads: 20 Likes Received: 8 in 8 posts Likes Given: 77 Joined: Jan 2021 Reputation: 0 Ahh.. ok.
Its much more convenient to put it directly on the pads for me.. thanx Snow I HATE FRSKY!!! • Posts: 1,490 Threads: 92 Likes Received: 574 in 468 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Nov 2020 Reputation: 27 Well.. I agree its a hasle to squeeze it under a canopy.
On Podracer, I jammed 470uF sidewayz under the camera. No other place to put it.
If a canopy has a "wider" skirt, I put double sided tape/foam on the FC and lay the lowESR right ontop.
Then the nano VTX lays against one side, and the receiver on the other side. • Posts: 244 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 8 in 8 posts Likes Given: 229 Joined: Jan 2023 Reputation: 0 (24-Feb-2021, 10:37 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Like this...
https://www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/produ...-capacitor
I disagree about it being no good. Plenty of people have had success doing this, and where there no room to fit one inside the body of the quad, having a capacitor connected via remote wires away from the board is better than having no capacitor at all. Prof, why is it bad if the capacitor is far away from the ESC, even though it is connected to it? • Posts: 2,369 Threads: 74 Likes Received: 1,336 in 996 posts Likes Given: 771 Joined: Apr 2022 Reputation: 41 There is a video somewhere on YT of a guy who tests cap placement. He tests a single cap on the power lead. A cap on the power lead and on the power lead pads (technically probably a cascade). A cap on power leads, power pads, and esc's. There was some analysis, but I think the take was ideally you have one on your power leads somewhere, either at the connector, like Snow indicated, which is what i use and one on each ESC, which no longer applies as only the hardcore pilots use single ESC's. At the bare minimum, get one of those caps on the power leads. They cost very little and they will shave ripples off the power. If you have one of those modern shitty TDK gyros like ICM42688, then you should probably use more than one and the ones with big capacitance, ie 470uf or maybe bigger if you are playing with 6S. But for most basic builds, something like the one UMT sells will be ideal. I literally bought 10 of them last year to add to my builds. Got rid of some of the drift I've had on ICM20689 due to the first one. If you are buying caps, get Panasonic and tailor it to your quad. You don't need 35V caps for a 2S quad. Try Not, Do or Do Not
- Yoda
• |
