I have posted a few threads where I built stuff or fixed stuff, but this is my first real “Build “ thread where I choose all the parts. My Tyro builds were just put’em together and then fix all the S*&T that was broken when they sent me the bogus parts. But I did learn a lot on troubleshooting and repair. So Good investments , and now that they have decent parts they are pretty nice flyers. It’s all good. So with the approach of Thanksgiving and the inevitable sales I knew I would want a winter project and tried to decide what to build. I really like my refurbished Tyro 79 so I have a nice 3” freestyle. And my Tyro99 Is a pretty nice 5” freestyle. I have a bunch of Whoops both brushed and brushless and I must admit they get most of my fly time. My current favorite is my Mobula7 HD and my preferred fly style as of late is low and slow proximity flying. I really like flying in the woods.
I decided to Build an analog 3” cinewhoop with an action cam. I also wanted to use some of the parts I have on hand. I have also wanted to play with INAV for sometime now, so the time is now.
I received an email from RDQ the Monday before Thanksgiving with a Mamba 40A F405 stack on sale. It was this one   The promotion in the email was that it came with a $25.00 gift card.  I ordered it. And then on the next sales I ordered some motors, props, BN-880 gps and a new fpv Cam. And somehow ended up with another $25.00 gift card. So I ended up with enough stuff to start a new build for about $150.00.
I think I have everything else or will make it here, including the ducts and frame.

I will start with the obligatory shots of the new parts. I know 30x30 boards are a bit big and 40amps is way overkill for 16xx motors but $55 is hard to beat for a F4 FC and 40A esc. Which is why I will be making my own frame, to get everything where I want it.



More to come
 
Scott


   

If those are the HQ d75mmx5 props, I’m a big fan. They’re much more durable than gemfan’s version.

I’m curious to see your frame and duct design.

(09-Dec-2021, 01:36 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: If those are the HQ d75mmx5 props, I’m a big fan. They’re much more durable than gemfan’s version.

I’m curious to see your frame and duct design.

They are the HQ's. Glad you like them. I am a HQ prop fan in general, so I gave them a try.
I have had some of this stuff for a few weeks and a lot of the design is done but we have to start at the beginning right?

I know to get a performance boost from a duct you need to go fast to get the efficiency. So I think that on a slow crusier they are more of a Prop guard or bumper. I was torn as to leaving them open or full ducts. So, I will start with full, I can open them up later to save some weight.

Scott

another reason for open propguards befor ducts because of the noise :-)

did you consider a pusher with bottom mounted battery? :-) i liked it on 4inch with guards

I started out with them in 3” ducts that were used as prop guards, then ditched the guards. The damn prop guards could take less of a hit than a prop can. Now I go back and forth between the HQ d75’s and 3x3x3 on my main 3” depending on my mood. The d75’s give me a nice floaty feel with significantly more hang time, which is nice sometimes.

(09-Dec-2021, 03:09 AM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: another reason for open propguards befor ducts because of the noise :-)

did you consider a pusher with bottom mounted battery? :-) i liked it on 4inch with guards

I have not considered a pusher they look funny to me.    This would also be my first top mounted battery build. 
I would think that disturbing the incoming air ( to the duct by going over all the mounting stuff ) would have less of an undesirable effect than disturbing the exit air. Which would be a benefit to a pusher.
Any other benefits ?

Scott

I built several 3" TP3 clones.. the Apex1303.6 powered is my favorite.

Then a short experiment with prop guards
Happymodel 1203 on 100mm frame and GF65.
Flying.. sucks.

I figure I need 2.5" triblade for better low end thrust, and ditch the prop guards.

Hi Scott,

Looks like you are off to a good start.

Yes, I am also a fan of the HQProp props. I find them much more durable than any other
brand that I have used including the Gemfan props. Much prefer HQProp props.

By the way, I have one pusher build which flies ok, but not much different than my standard
builds. For me an issue with the pusher is the take off unless you have some type of landing
gear. You have to support it some how while you are getting ready to launch. 
For me it is just a PITA.

Anyway, it will be interesting to follow this build and see how it all turns out.

I got suddenly and unexpectedly rather busy, ( Pesky customers ) So this had to take a back seat for a bit. It may be a slow build but I will get back to it here shortly.

Scott

Sorry I have not posted progress on this project, while I have been working on it I have not had the extra time to post. I have been taking pictures throughout the build so if I do not detail something that you would like to see, ask , I may have pictures.
I still have not come to a decision on which style to go with, “Ducted” or “Shielded”.  So I think I will do both. It is just a matter of a second frame. And that is not that big of a deal either as I am making the frames. 
Late in 2019 when I kinda lost interest in FPV I decided to build a Laser engraver. I built a 7watt diode laser( NUBM44 ). It was a fun project and kind of a neat toy. It will not cut or engrave metal and is limited to cutting 3mm plywood at best. When I started designing my frame for the ducted version I decided to burn one out of plywood for a rapid prototype to check some clearances, I also wanted to get the camera position nailed down so nothing shows in the fpv feed. When my final prototype is “approved” I will mill the frame out of CF or G10.
Cutting one out.







After I started adding parts I was surprised how rigid it was getting ,



 after I put the top plate on I started thinking “I could fly this thing” And I think I will. I bet it will be rigid enough for a slow cruiser, certainly not up to freestyle but good enough to make my decision on which frame style to use before I commit to expensive Carbon Fiber.
Here is my solid model so far, I still have to add a tail cage, something to tie the back together and hold my GPS and antennas.



Up next the Camera Cage


Scott


                         

Dude that is sick!!!

That is awesome. I’m looking forward hearing about how it flies with the wooden frame.

This makes me want to dust off my 3d printer and actually use the 10w laser module that I put on it… …but that would mean actually learning a cad program and I’ve been putting that off for a couple years now.

(08-Jan-2022, 09:59 PM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: That is awesome. I’m looking forward hearing about how it flies with the wooden frame.

This makes me want to dust off my 3d printer and actually use the 10w laser module that I put on it… …but that would mean actually learning a cad program and I’ve been putting that off for a couple years now.

Check out Lightburn software. 30 day full featured trial. Very good software and there is a version for g-code based grbl and Marlin version as well. Mostly for big CO2 machines but works good for our diode Lasers.

Scott

I am not sure I really need a cage around my camera, I have never broken one in a crash before but I guess the first time is always near. Plus they look cool and I wanted to make one. So here we have my version.

This is the Solid model in my CAD program

 
After modeling we need some tool paths, so into the CAM program to work out a machining strategy, define tools and then generate toolpaths.



Then to the CNC milling machine
set up the stock and define the coordinate system. If this had been a production run I would do this all differently but as a one off pair I am doing them with no fixtures or machine finishing and deburring.
Here is one being milled out. The part will finish at .187” thick. I am machining to a depth of .2” The parent stock is .250”thick 6061 T6 aluminum. So I am milling 5 sides with this set up.


 
I then moved in on the stock and cut another one. Rough sawed the 2 pieces out. Turned them over and held them in the vise and machined off the back and brought them down to the finish size of .187”.



Liberated from the parent stock


 
Here they are in the vise to have the notches squared up and the holes drilled and tapped.


 
After some hand deburring and sanding 



and some various glam shots








Scott


Next up will be "The Ducts "


                                       

Wow, beautiful aluminum milling there, if nothing else this build will be a work of craftsman art!