Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 01-Feb-2018, 07:25 PM (This post was last modified: 01-Feb-2018, 07:37 PM by sloscotty.) Let's start with the name... This is the Tiny Whoov, as named by the original designer, Alex@BadAssDrones. You've seen them called "tiny whoovers", and they are (collectively). I would also say that when you "fly" one of these things, you are "whoovering". Well, I could go on, but I'll just say I wanted to give the designer his due. These things are super easy to build - you should be able to build one in less than two hours. What do you need? - The printed plans (Download the PDF)
- An 80mm quad like the Inductrix or E010
- An A4 or letter-size sheet of 5-6mm foam (Depron, MPF, fan-fold, etc)
- Some spray adhesive
- Some foam-safe glue and/or a hot glue gun (I recommend Foam Tac for foam to foam and hot glue for the electronics)
- A cutting knife (Exacto, etc) and a straight-edge
- Optionally an emory board and some colored markers
I followed the plans as closely as possible for my build. The video below details the build (and includes a brief whoovering run at the end): Notes: The motor order is the same as on your quad. Steering is done with yaw control. If you have an FC capable of running Betaflight, there is a way to modify Betaflight to give you hover control via an Aux channel (see rafl's comments on Thingiverse) and get better "steering" with both sticks. Not mentioned in the video: be sure and tack down your front motor wires with hot glue if not using the ducts. If you have any questions about the Betaflight mod, I'd be happy to try to help or point you in the right direction. I've already been through it for my " mini whoov". Happy Whoovering!! Posts: 1,504 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 944 in 654 posts Likes Given: 2,142 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 24 I have started to build one of these, and I was thinking that maybe steering could be transferred to the other stick, simply by swapping the wires to the front 2 motors, but keeping the placement of the motors the same? I thought that this way, by applying roll the same motors and rotations would be activated as using Yaw in the original configuration. With the possible added benefit of applying forward pitch to speed up the rear 2 motors (might need to be used in conjunction with more thrust to offset the reduction in speed from the front 2 motors) to act as a kind of turbo boost..? Not sure how the gyro and accelerometer would react though? Windless fields and smokeless builds • Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 03-Feb-2018, 09:29 AM (This post was last modified: 03-Feb-2018, 09:41 AM by sloscotty.) I don't think that will work Tom. Yaw works because the opposite motors are spinning in the same direction. If you swap one adjacent pair, then opposite motors will be spinning in opposite directions. I believe you will find that you get uncontrollable spinning. As far as pitch goes, when building as shown, you will find you need to hold forward pitch to keep the Whoov from flipping over backward when applying throttle. Building wiith the E010, I found that I could trim the pitch control all the way forward and leave that stick alone. (I had to redo that with each fresh battery though - those little Tx's don't remember their settings.) If you've always wished you had more rudder muscle memory, the Whoov is a great trainer! EDIT: I misread your post. If you swap only wires, won't your motors/propellers spin backward (if at all)? I think that would "suck" your motors to the floor...? • Posts: 1,504 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 944 in 654 posts Likes Given: 2,142 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 24 03-Feb-2018, 01:43 PM (This post was last modified: 03-Feb-2018, 01:44 PM by Tom BD Bad.) I meant - wire the front left motor to the front right pads and vice versa, but keep the physical motor position and rotation/polarity the same. So the front left motor is receiving the signals intended for the front right, thus a 'roll left' input will increase the speed of both the motors wired to the right side of the board, which now increases the speed of both CCW motors, positioned rear right and front left, resulting in yaw. Windless fields and smokeless builds • Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 03-Feb-2018, 02:05 PM (This post was last modified: 03-Feb-2018, 02:20 PM by sloscotty.) Won't that result in a clock-wise spin (right yaw)? • Posts: 1,504 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 944 in 654 posts Likes Given: 2,142 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 24 Sorry, as this is purely theoretical for now, I am being non specific with Yaw direction, either way, just trying to get the roll stick to do the steering with stock TX and FW! Swapping the rear motor pads to get the correct yaw direction is just as 'simple' a solution. Windless fields and smokeless builds • Posts: 1,504 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 944 in 654 posts Likes Given: 2,142 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 24 WoovHoo! I don't have FPV on it, and I have scaled it up very slightly to use Eachine H8 mini props, but it works, and works well; even with a 1S 600mAh TGY graphene!! I have also just wired the motors in standard config for now, its granny's birthday and I'm being rushed out of the house, I will try swapping motor wiring to get yaw on the other stick, and let you know how it works... Windless fields and smokeless builds Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 Great! Hope you get a chance to get it in a big gym - These things are a blast!! Posts: 1,504 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 944 in 654 posts Likes Given: 2,142 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 24 05-Feb-2018, 05:43 AM (This post was last modified: 05-Feb-2018, 06:26 AM by Tom BD Bad.) Ok I swapped the motor wiring and yep, it didn't work! It still worked well, but steering was still on yaw, the motors were a bit twitchy trying to use roll, but the FC wouldn't allow it. As I mentioned I used Eachine H8 props, the main reason, apart from the extra thrust from the slightly longer props but also because they have the shaft hole all the way through. Because of this I have turned the rear 2 vertical fins around and mounted the props 'upside-down' and made it a pusher. Scotty you mentioned that you need to use forward pitch to stop the nose rising up, the pusher config has put the rear thrust further back, and a bit higher for clearance with the longer props and so I can full throttle without any nose lift at all! Also as I mentioned earlier, I can 'fly' this with a 600mAh battery, if you were to place a larger battery closer to the front, it might help alleviate the nose lifting..? Edit to add : I can't say for the true inductrix Whoov, but mine does work on tarmac! Windless fields and smokeless builds Posts: 2,416 Threads: 51 Likes Received: 1,861 in 1,175 posts Likes Given: 3,315 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 74 05-Feb-2018, 09:56 AM (This post was last modified: 05-Feb-2018, 10:00 AM by sloscotty.) Pusher is a good idea! Might have to try that on my next one...maybe with brushless motors too... Here's an interesting take from AirHogs - it can eject the "drone". Posts: 91 Threads: 10 Likes Received: 84 in 45 posts Likes Given: 105 Joined: Aug 2016 Reputation: 2 Kits are already available in the UK: https://www.dronejunkie.co.uk/tiny-whoov...rcraft-kit Should have one soon - sooner than the Eachine E010 from Banggood anyway! |