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Betafpv spi elrs 12a aio bricked after flashing firmware
#1
So I flashed to quicksilver last week and was having a blast and then wanted to turn off my melody startup on esc config because I chose the rick roll song and it was annoying me.

Esc config wasn't connecting to the FC for some reason, so I thought this must be a quick silver problem so I went to flash back to betaflight chose BETAFPVF411RX. Suddenly I got stuck on erasing on the loading bar, however in the corner of betaflight it said something like port disconnected so I thought this must be a gui error, regardless I waited a while and then decided it was time to unplug and replug.

No LED on FC, no device connected message on pc, nothing shows in device manager, nothing shows in zadig, impulserc driver fixer stays on searching. However red light still on VTX and rick roll song on esc's still plays, esc config still shows nothing.

I have tried holding the boot button when plugging into USB, tried different USB's slots and wires, ensured that usb port isn't broken on FC.

Is there anything else I can try to get my FC to communicate with my pc, it seems dead but there is still power running through it as it connects to vtx and ESC's.

Here is the link to the FC - https://betafpv.com/collections/brushles...controller
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#2
The target you flashed is the wrong one mate.

You need this BF target for this FC: BETAFPVF4SX1280

There is a BOOT button on this FC, press this down AND plug in the USB connection to the PC at the same time, keep the BOOT button depressed.

[Image: 88a3c8d54cce36d656c9fd127db8e037_8dd4f88...1663145284]

BF configurator should show "DFU" in the port section before you try to connect.  Now go to update firmware and make sure you use the target name I posted.  It should flash and then reboot.  Once you connect with BF configurator it will load the final config and all the LEDS should start responding.

Make sure when you go back to esc configurator to have a battery plugged in and a fan running on it to keep the vtx cool.
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#3
Yes I have tried holding the boot button when plugging into USB, tried different USB's slots and wires, ensured that usb port isn't broken on FC.
No LED on FC, no device connected message on pc, nothing shows in device manager, nothing shows in zadig, impulserc driver fixer stays on searching. However red light still on VTX and rick roll song on esc's still plays, esc config still shows nothing.
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#4
Kicking myself rn as I just discovered it was the frsky firmware I accidently flashed
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#5
Ok well that's a bugger.  Have you tried a diff usb cable?  Sorry to be captain obvious..
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#6
Yeah, tried different cables and usb ports on my pc
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#7
I seen there's a way to 'jumper the pins' isnt the boot button a jumper or something? Could my boot button be broken? I mean it clicks just fine, doesn't seem broken
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#8
The boot button just creates a bridge between the BOOT0 (#44) and VDD (#48} pins on the MCU (see the pinout of an F411 MCU below). So you can try doing the same manually with a piece of wire. Just be extremely careful not to bridge any other legs on the MCU if you try that. EDIT: Take care to locate the correct legs. Don't go by the orientation of the writing on the MCU. It is the dot/dimple on the MCU which denotes the corner where pin 1 is located.

With a USB cable plugged in you should be getting a reading of 3.3V on each of the VDD legs, so you can use a multimeter to check that, again being very careful not to accidentally bridge any legs with your probes.

[Image: TSYJwbl.jpg]
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#9
Can I use regular silicon 30awg wire?, I think I have a basic small multimeter, do I just hold it against an exposed piece of wire while it's bridged and plugged in via usb? Thanks for the help, I am a noob to this hobby, so I really appreciate it
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#10
(03-Feb-2023, 01:49 PM)Dronewhooper Wrote: Can I use regular silicon 30awg wire?, I think I have a basic small multimeter, do I just hold it against an exposed piece of wire while it's bridged and plugged in via usb? Thanks for the help, I am a noob to this hobby, so I really appreciate it

It doesn't matter what wire you use as long as it creates continuity between the two pins on the MCU while it is being powered up. I also described the procedure in another post HERE along with a visual photo. The F3 MCU on that FC has the same pinout as the F411 FCU on your FC.

Before you do that though, check for voltage between each of the VDD pins on the MCU (one at a time) and any one of the GND pads on your FC while a USB cable is plugged into it because if the MCU isn't getting any voltage then it's not going to power up which means you aren't going to be able to put it into DFU mode or connect to it from your computer.
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#11
I see, so I will try this tonight when I am free and give an update, just to confirm the MCU is this? And the pins also that need connecting?
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#12
It's not letting me send a picture, but I understand what to do, thanks
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#13
Be aware the boot button is very finicky on these boards. You have to be very firm when you hold it down or it doesn't register. Not to mention it's a complete pig to do while also faffing with a usb lead. Even more fun on the 5A FC.

Hope you get it fixed.
Try Not, Do or Do Not
- Yoda

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#14
pressing down hard on the boot button did the trick, thanks for the help guys, good learning experience, i was so depressed the past 24 hours thinking it was busted lol Big Grin
[-] The following 1 user Likes Dronewhooper's post:
  • ph2t
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#15
It's not fully broken until you see smoke pouring out of it and even then you can theoretically fix most problems with the right kit.

Software problems are not hardware, so recoverable. When you do a flash in BF, remember to set full chip erase to on, so it erases first, then flashes. That will help you avoid some problems with corrupted firmware.
Try Not, Do or Do Not
- Yoda

[-] The following 1 user Likes Pathfinder075's post:
  • Lemonyleprosy
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