This AIO was released back in January, and seems was designed specifically for the new Crux35 HDZero. It is one of the very few 4S capable AIO with an onboard ELRS RX available on the market. On top of that it is stocked and at a relatively reasonable price. 

It has a HD VTX plug, and is only for digital VTXs as it has no analog OSD chip. For any build that fits a 20x20 board, this is a great option (ie Crux35, Scythe frames). The USB plug however does come out the rear, so may not be suitable for all frames.

For the Crux it is a very simple drop in replacement. I like it much better than the previous board that came with the Crux35 v2, the CrazyF411 ELRS. That was a 25x25 whoop board, it was only F411 with one usable UART (this board now has 2 free UARTs) and did not have a VTX plug (not even a spare vbat pad). The motors wires all run nicely off the sides on the new board, and not the tangled mess when you try to square mount a whoop board. Also HM kindly did NOT solder the motor plugs (as they did on the CrazyF411) making it easier to solder motors directly. The new board also now comes with 8M blackbox.



Have not tested its durability yet, but both @fpvme and I got one and replaced the old faulty boards in our digital Crux35 v2s. Simply drop in and no issues so far. I liked it so much I got a second one for a Scythe build.



One problem with this board is the mounting holes are undersized (just barely larger than M2) making it nearly impossible to get the gummies in. I had reservations about drilling them out as I was worried about the metal shavings. I resorted to cutting the gummies in half and sandwiching the board, not ideal, but seemed fine in flight.



Here trying to keep the battery lead and capacitor wires as short as possible while still leaving a little flex room. Printed a TPU mount to hold both the XT30 and 10mm cap. I was considering a super low profile build, 15mm stack would be enough with a Walksnail 1S board, but too bad I only have 20mm standoffs.



Just barely enough clearance to reach the USB, probably could tweak the cap angle. The bottom gets all low profile screws.



Now which motors to use for this build... probably go with my favorite 1404s, T-motor.

I was planning to use the Walksnail 1S VTX for this build, but the VTX plug on the AIO only outputs vbat. So using a 4S lipo would fry the VTX. Decided to perform bypass surgery. I clipped the bottom of the socket pin, a little difficult as it is in a tight spot flush against the board. Covered the vbat pad with some electrical tape, and then soldered a jumper wire to an adjacent 5v pad. Happymodel does not provide the spec for their BEC, but hopefully it is rated 2-3A.



Going with some Galloping 1404s. I really liked their 1505s, smooth, powerful enough, budget priced, but probably softer aluminum as I destroyed some crashing on pavement. Will see how the 1404s perform.



More of that blue and orange color mix (@pathfinder  )

(28-Apr-2024, 03:05 AM)mstc Wrote: I was planning to use the Walksnail 1S VTX for this build, but the VTX plug on the AIO only outputs vbat. So using a 4S lipo would fry the VTX. Decided to perform bypass surgery. I clipped the bottom of the socket pin, a little difficult as it is in a tight spot flush against the board. Covered the vbat pad with some electrical tape, and then soldered a jumper wire to an adjacent 5v pad. Happymodel does not provide the spec for their BEC, but hopefully it is rated 2-3A.

You are very brave. I am still learning.