Posts: 7 Threads: 2 Likes Received: 2 in 2 posts Likes Given: 3 Joined: Sep 2017 Reputation: 1 If you have a FC with on screen display capability, then there's not much need for telemetry, so using just a single UART connection to the receiver: F4 would be OK to get flying. Especially if it simplifies the build. I don't think telemetry is critical in the beginning, as long as a buzzer or lights are setup for battery voltage. It'll be spending more time on the ground than in the air, anyway. The QX7 controller I've been happy with, but then, not much to compare it to. The USB port is on the bottom to connect to the computer which is a minor annoyance for sims. It connects to the sim quite readily with minor configuration only. Personally, I'm not a huge fan of sims. They have their place, but there is no substitute for actual air time. I'll probably get knocked for that, of course  people are different in their learning styles. ![[-]](https://intofpv.com/images/collapse.png) • Posts: 12,099 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 20-Oct-2017, 03:59 PM (This post was last modified: 20-Oct-2017, 03:59 PM by voodoo614.) I have to disagree with telemetry. It is nice at the beginning to have because of the voice warnings. As a beginner, you are too focus on flying (not crashing) that you don't look at the OSD. Although, the flashing warnings from the OSD is hard to miss.
Funny comment about it will be on the ground more than the air. This is so true. I can't remember how many times I charge all my lipos, excited to fly, and crash and break something in the first 30 seconds.
Guess this is where I disagree again with the simulator. The simulator really helped me to learn the basic (not crash and turns). After that, it was all stick time. The better I got in real life, the better I got at the simulator. • Posts: 9 Threads: 1 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Oct 2017 Reputation: 0 Thanks Carl and voodoo. I'll definitely come back to this thread for reference.
My main question at this time is which radio should I get?
The Taranis X9D looks good, but the QX7 looks a little more streamlined with some newer features. It's also on sale. If I can get the radio at a good price now, I can figure out the rest as time goes on.
And do I want left or right hand throttle? I'm assuming left hand is typically your pitch/yaw
Thanks again • Posts: 12,099 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 • Posts: 1,504 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 944 in 654 posts Likes Given: 2,142 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 24 (20-Oct-2017, 05:03 PM)DangerZone Wrote: Thanks Carl and voodoo. I'll definitely come back to this thread for reference.
My main question at this time is which radio should I get?
The Taranis X9D looks good, but the QX7 looks a little more streamlined with some newer features. It's also on sale. If I can get the radio at a good price now, I can figure out the rest as time goes on.
And do I want left or right hand throttle? I'm assuming left hand is typically your pitch/yaw
Thanks again Pitch and roll on one stick, throttle and yaw on the other. Honestly BangGood often display a ridiculous 'sale' % reduction while the same item is available from multiple other sources at the same 'retail' price. see ready made RC here, Taranis QX7 retail price $104.99 Windless fields and smokeless builds • Posts: 12,099 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 I think Tom already covered left (mode 2) and right (mode 1) throttle. I just wanted to correct Tom, yaw and throttle on one stick is for mode 2 and 3. On mode 1, yaw/pitch on one stick and roll/throttle on the other. Mode 1 and 2 is the most common. There is actually mode 3 and 4 also but less common. Most in the States uses mode 2. I can't say for the rest of the world. It is like buying a right or left side drive car. Or skateboarding regular or goofy. Write with your right or left hand. I think you get the point. It is a pain to do, but with the Taranis you can reconfigure the stick to whatever mode you want. Posts: 9 Threads: 1 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Oct 2017 Reputation: 0 Is the X9D really that much better than the QX7?
Like would the QX7 do alright for the first while so I could maybe invest a little more of my budget into say better goggles etc? I'm really leaning towards the quality of the visuals. I've seen some videos with a lot of video interference and static, and I would really like to keep that to a minimum if possible. • Posts: 12,099 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 QX7 is more than adequate. • Posts: 9 Threads: 1 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Oct 2017 Reputation: 0 Okay, that's settled. Now I'm looking at goggles. I like the idea of getting something cheap to start and saving my money for something nicer like the Oamways or Fatsharks. What do you guys think of these EV800D goggles for the price? https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-EV800D-...mds=search • Posts: 1,504 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 944 in 654 posts Likes Given: 2,142 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 24 (20-Oct-2017, 07:45 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: On mode 1, yaw/pitch on one stick and roll/throttle on the other. Oh really, I always thought mode 1 and 2 were the same, just on opposite sticks! Thanks for the clarification. re. EV800D goggles - they have a built in battery which is both pro and con... Pro - you don't need to buy a battery separately like you do with some goggles. Con - You can't easily swap out the battery for a charged one, if it runs flat in the field. They do have a built in DVR which is nice, but you may feel limited with the 800x480 screen resolution as FPV cameras improve. Danger, you keep saying that quality of FPV image is paramount. FYI, almost any 5.8ghz FPV setup will suffer from interference when you fly behind obstacles, or to the range limits of your VTX/antenna. All the great quality FPV vids that you see on youtube are captured with a go pro or similar 'action camera.' The RunCam Split is a new FPV and HD camera in 1, it writes video to an SD card on board the quad so it doesn't capture the interference that you will see in your goggles. There are some digital HD FPV streaming solutions that have started to hit the market, but they are still VERY expensive. Windless fields and smokeless builds • Posts: 12,099 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 There is some caveat with buying the QX7. Remember it doesn't come with batteries and it doesn't have internal charging circuit. So you will need a charger (which you will have anyway). So you will need to add $15 to your final price of the TX. $120 for QX7 vs $190 for X9D. • Posts: 9 Threads: 1 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Oct 2017 Reputation: 0 Okay, I get the impression that the X9D is pretty much the industry standard. I found this one with a receiver and apparently the receiver has a 1km range. Is this a good buy or are there better receivers with similar range out there for the $38CAD price difference between this package and just the radio? https://www.banggood.com/FrSky-2_4G-ACCS...mds=search Also, on goggles. If the EV800s aren't the greatest, what should I be looking at? You guys don't know how much I appreciate all this help. Your knowledge is saving me so much time and internal deliberation. The community surrounding this sport is great. • Posts: 1,504 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 944 in 654 posts Likes Given: 2,142 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 24 Sorry man, I didn't mean to put you off the EV800D, they do have pretty good specs, and they are probably the best bet under $100. Most box goggles have the same 800x480 res, I just like the goggles two's HDMI input option and 1920x1080 res for displaying sims. You could put the $70 difference into upgrading other components, or maybe buying an extra ESC and motor. Its good to have a few spares, especially those components that are out at the edges of the quad getting pounded into the dirt over and over again! Being grounded for a month while waiting for a delivery is one of the hardest parts of the hobby! Windless fields and smokeless builds • Posts: 12,099 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 21-Oct-2017, 08:03 AM (This post was last modified: 21-Oct-2017, 08:13 AM by voodoo614.) (21-Oct-2017, 05:20 AM)DangerZone Wrote: Okay, I get the impression that the X9D is pretty much the industry standard. I found this one with a receiver and apparently the receiver has a 1km range. Is this a good buy or are there better receivers with similar range out there for the $38CAD price difference between this package and just the radio?
https://www.banggood.com/FrSky-2_4G-ACCS...mds=search I wouldn't do X8R. Too big for a mini quad. Stick with XSR, XSR-M, X4RSB. Don't worry about the range. You will run out of range on the FPV before you loose range on the radio. QX7 is a great radio. Just wanted to point out that the price difference is not as wide. $70 is still a lot of money. • Posts: 2,286 Threads: 38 Likes Received: 1,527 in 995 posts Likes Given: 1,881 Joined: Apr 2016 Reputation: 72 (20-Oct-2017, 02:00 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: Wouldn't some of you agree that he is better off with an AIO F3 instead of a F4, especially when he is using Frsky. The reason is F4 only have one UART with hardware inversion, while F3 has inversion on all UART. It is confusing enough wiring up for the first, let alone trying to find the non_inversion signal. This is a concern, but if you look around, there are decent F4 AIO flight controllers which have the correct number of inverters to handle both S.BUS and SmartPort telemetry without having to solder tiny wires to the receiver. The big benefit with an F4 is being able to run dynamic filtering without breaking a sweat and still have CPU power left for the next clever feature that the Betaflight guys add in the next major release. • |
