Posts: 4,073
Threads: 75
Likes Received: 2,548 in 1,858 posts
Likes Given: 3,949
Joined: May 2021
Reputation:
121 Nice trick. I’ve got some normally closed tweezers, I’m gonna have to put them to use and try this next time.
Dangerous operations.
Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about.
I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
• Posts: 5,848
Threads: 47
Likes Received: 2,773 in 2,235 posts
Likes Given: 7,598
Joined: Jul 2019
Reputation:
97 Yes, I have several different "styles" of the normally closed tweezers
and use them all the time. In addition to using them as clamps, they
are great for picking up small things that my fingers simply can not
grasp.
• Posts: 2,369
Threads: 74
Likes Received: 1,336 in 996 posts
Likes Given: 771
Joined: Apr 2022
Reputation:
41 I freely admit to avoiding boards with those slots on them, for the very reason of soldering stuff to them.
Try Not, Do or Do Not
- Yoda
• Posts: 5,848
Threads: 47
Likes Received: 2,773 in 2,235 posts
Likes Given: 7,598
Joined: Jul 2019
Reputation:
97 I agree with Suros. The semi-circle cut out "pads" are super easy to solder.
When tinning them, the solder just fills up the hole. {I stand the board on
it's edge so the cutouts are like alleys that fill up and hold the solder}.
Place a wire over the pad, place the soldering iron on top, very light pressure,
when the solder melts, the wire sinks down into the recess and done.
By the way, I always solder motor wires without the FC mounted. So,
I stand the board up on its edge so that the cutouts are down with the
wire on top. The board is secured in that blue tac putty stuff. When the
solder begins to melt, the wire drops right into the cutout. Super easy.
I will take cutout motor pad over flat pads any day.
Side note. you can make the exposed wire a bit long if you want and
trim it after it is soldered.
•