I am struggling to solder motor wres to the TinyHawk 2.  The pads are small and very close together.  I have the Sequre 100 iron and  BC-2 tip.  I am using flux and good rosin core  60/40 solder.  I would appreciate any tips to prevent bridging in such a small space.

-use a small tip
-presolder it
-solder fast with enough heat
-use a "helping arm", a "gum" to hold the wires in place

if your solder isnt a nice quality, you wont be able to do a good job. beginner does seem to struggle with soldering, often its just poor quality solder.

get the best solder, post your results we can probably tell how you can improve.


there is a good thread from "unseen" if i am correct, called "how not to solder" :-) but there are a lot examples and informations how to solder.

https://intofpv.com/t-how-not-to-solder

^^^* all good info... key is also to have good equipment.. I recently “upgraded” from my HF POS.. and it made a HUGE difference! And funny too... I was soldering my TH freestyle last night..
Oh get good magnifying glasses.. I use a jewelers loupe ..

That tip might be too big. Make sure you pre-tin the pads and wires.

Sometimes i cover the pads on small boards using cardboard to protect eveything I'm not soldering.. Just in case.

Some soldering tips: https://oscarliang.com/soldering-guide/

Racedayquads is out of these practice boards currently but other vendors have them and get some wire to practice with.
 Soldering wires to XT60 or battery pads uses a different technique (tip size,temperature,etc) than smaller wires like receiver,camera or vtx wires.Practice on a 2 dollar board keeps from damaging a more expensive FC,vtx or other component.
 
 https://www.racedayquads.com/products/di...er%20pract

A lot of it is just practice. Find a good temp, use more flux than you need, and probably get tools like a solder sucker or wick for when things goof up.

If you've got the nervous shakes and are old enough, a beer will fix that! It's my cheat.

“How do u get to Carnegie Hall from here..practice”
-Lt. Aldo Reigns-

There is far too much emphasis placed on using flux in addition to the flux already in a resin core solder.

There's a recent post from me in this vein, but bottom line, I have been soldering things regularly and always successfully since I was a kid, and that was a very VERY long time ago.

For electrical/electronic work have never used or needed anything other than core solder, a fixed temp iron, and a mag lamp.

Lots of additional flux chills the iron and the work area, blocks even solder flow, allows flow where its not wanted, forces the iron to be applied for too long, and is counter productive.

At the end of the day I don't think there is any right or wrong answer with regards to using flux (or not), and everyone has their own technique and personal preference as to how they do soldering. As long as the joint ends up looking and feeling solid without you having pumped unnecessary excess heat through the components / board then that is all that really matters.

From a personal standpoint I've been soldering for decades and I always use additional flux even when using resin core solder. For me, doing so has always helped to create much better looking joints that have a nice dome and which end up being ultra shiny, so I know I have a top quality joint.

If you watch pro electronic repair specialists at work on YouTube (Louis Rossmann, Paul Daniels and Northridge Fix to name a few), they always use additional flux when soldering and desoldering components which they then clean off with a swab and isopropyl alcohol afterwards, so to me that's as good an endorsement as any for using flux. But as said it's each to their own, so each individual should do whatever works best for them 

I agree with Snow. Do what you like. But Flux is your friend.

And those who have never seen proper soldering, go watch those channels.

Joshua Bardwell has a great (if a bit long    ) video on soldering. I learned quite a bit more than I expected to.