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Smoked my first ESC
#1
Hey everyone! I'm working on a new build and just smoked my new ESC!  I'm not sure why though, I did have a smoke stopper on the plug, so I'm hoping for some insight as to why this could have happened?  I have the RDQ Bardwell 4-in1 ESC, it didn't come with a capacitor so I installed a panasonic 1000uF 35V with the huge negative symbols to the negative pad on the ESC.  When I plugged in the battery, it immediately smoked! The receiver received power though (I'm also using the RDQ Bardwell Flight Controller plugged into the ESC with the cable that came with it) and it bound to my transmitter instantly.

Any ideas what I may have done wrong?
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#2
I guess the first question is, what type of smoke stopper did you use. If it was one of those poly fuse ones then they're about as useful as a chocolate teapot.

Did you perform a continuity check with a multimeter between the positive and negative LiPo connections and also between the 5V rail and GND before you plugged in a LiPo?
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#3
(13-Dec-2019, 11:26 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: I guess the first question is, what type of smoke stopper did you use. If it was one of those poly fuse ones then they're about as useful as a chocolate teapot.

Did you perform a continuity check with a multimeter between the positive and negative LiPo connections and also between the 5V rail and GND before you plugged in a LiPo?

Thank you for responding so quickly!!

I use the RDQ XT60 smoke stopper with the LED

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/sm...e397&_ss=r

I did not do a continuity check.. my bad. I’ll check that, hopefully I didn’t smoke the FC too, I have a feeling I did though since it doesn’t want to respond when I plug in the USB port and try to pull up BF.

Can you tell me what I would want to check for the 5V rail to the Ground? Which pads do I test?
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#4
(13-Dec-2019, 11:37 PM)eforden Wrote: I use the RDQ XT60 smoke stopper with the LED

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/sm...e397&_ss=r

Yep, those fancy looking smoke stoppers are useless. They don't trip quick enough in the event of a short circuit (see this post). Throw it away and build yourself an automotive bulb smoke stopper instead. See Oscar's article on how to make one HERE.

(13-Dec-2019, 11:37 PM)eforden Wrote: I did not do a continuity check.. my bad. I’ll check that, hopefully I didn’t smoke the FC too, I have a feeling I did though since it doesn’t want to respond when I plug in the USB port and try to pull up BF.

Can you tell me what I would want to check for the 5V rail to the Ground? Which pads do I test?

Just put your multimeter into continuity ("beep") mode and then put one probe on a 5V pad and another probe on a GND pad. You shouldn't get a beep. Do the same with the LiPo pad connections.

Also, prior to powering up, always inspect the boards with a magnifying glass to check for any solder balls or splatters of solder that may have ended up between or across pins of components or pads.
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#5
(13-Dec-2019, 11:47 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Yep, those fancy looking smoke stoppers are useless. They don't trip quick enough in the event of a short circuit (see this post). Throw it away and build yourself an automotive bulb smoke stopper instead. See Oscar's article on how to make one HERE.


Just put your multimeter into continuity ("beep") mode and then put one probe on a 5V pad and another probe on a GND pad. You shouldn't get a beep. Do the same with the LiPo pad connections.

Also, prior to powering up, always inspect the boards with a magnifying glass to check for any solder balls or splatters of solder that may have ended up between or across pins of components or pads.

I do also have the light bulb one, but didn’t use it this time - I should have.

I’m not getting continuity on the 5V and GND, but when I touch the battery lead there is a super quick beep but nothing constant..
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#6
(13-Dec-2019, 11:47 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Also, prior to powering up, always inspect the boards with a magnifying glass to check for any solder balls or splatters of solder that may have ended up between or across pins of components or pads.

Super good advice. I had solder ball on my FC and it started fire. just saying.. Big Grin
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#7
(14-Dec-2019, 12:14 AM)notafraid_fpv Wrote: Super good advice. I had solder ball on my FC and it started fire. just saying.. Big Grin

Yes it is, and I did this a few times with a magnifying glass, I was super careful and made sure there weren’t any solder balls or splatter.
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#8
(14-Dec-2019, 12:07 AM)eforden Wrote: I’m not getting continuity on the 5V and GND, but when I touch the battery lead there is a super quick beep but nothing constant..

The quick beep is just the circuit charging capacitance. A continuous beep is indicated of a short.
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#9
(14-Dec-2019, 12:07 AM)eforden Wrote: I’m not getting continuity on the 5V and GND, but when I touch the battery lead there is a super quick beep but nothing constant..

Unfortunately it's a bit late to be checking continuity now with something already smoked because there may have been continuity before but whatever fried may have broken that continuity. It needs to be checked before connecting up any power.
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#10
(14-Dec-2019, 12:26 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Unfortunately it's a bit late to be checking continuity now with something already smoked because there may have been continuity before but whatever fried may have broken that continuity. It needs to be checked before connecting up any power.

Alright, I'm back in business.  I thankfully ordered a backup ESC and FC, got things resoldered to the new boards and everything is good.  I checked the continuity before plugging anything in and didn't get any beeps from anything.  I used the lightbulb and it did not stay lit!  I'm able to successfully connect to BF now.
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#11
This is a separate topic, but I have a 2 position On/Off switch that I got off eBay with XT60 connectors.. after not too much use, it stopped working reliably. Any suggestions on where I can pickup a new switch so I can just build my own?
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#12
(14-Dec-2019, 08:08 PM)eforden Wrote: This is a separate topic, but I have a 2 position On/Off switch that I got off eBay with XT60 connectors.. after not too much use, it stopped working reliably. Any suggestions on where I can pickup a new switch so I can just build my own?

You can pretty get a SPST switch anywhere. Your local hardware store. Just make sure it is rated for whatever you want to use it for.
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#13
(14-Dec-2019, 08:48 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: You can pretty get a SPST switch anywhere. Your local hardware store. Just make sure it is rated for whatever you want to use it for.

Ok cool, thanks! What rating would I want if I’m using it for 4S LiPos?
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#14
(14-Dec-2019, 10:34 PM)eforden Wrote: Ok cool, thanks! What rating would I want if I’m using it for 4S LiPos?

Most switch, unless it is a micro switch, will be able to handle 4S. The rule of thumb, if a switch is rated at 15A 125VAC, will handle 15A at 30VDC.
[-] The following 1 user Likes voodoo614's post:
  • eforden
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#15
(14-Dec-2019, 10:34 PM)eforden Wrote: Ok cool, thanks! What rating would I want if I’m using it for 4S LiPos?

Base it on the bulb you are using. Assuming you are using a 27W bulb and a 4S LiPo (16.8V), the maximum current the smoke stopper will allow through it is 1.6A (27 / 16.8). Most SPST toggle switches will easily handle in excess of 15A.
[-] The following 1 user Likes SnowLeopardFPV's post:
  • eforden
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