05-Jun-2022, 02:36 AM (This post was last modified: 05-Jun-2022, 02:41 AM by Lemonyleprosy.)
(05-Jun-2022, 02:13 AM)kafie1980 Wrote: Just go with SBUS and make your life easy. On a small quad like this you don’t need much telemetry and just setup audio alerts for LQ etc on your radio.
^^^yeah, ima just do this. I’m capable of smd work, so I could probably break out a pad if I *really* needed to, but it is not worth it for this bird. It’s not gonna be flying out far enough for me to worry about losing rx signal- in my environment I’ll lose video far before I lose rx signal.
Any kind of smd work tends to turn into a night of cursing and frustration, and then some purchases of replacement parts the next day.
I’d be willing to try for funsies if I had a hot air rework station, but I don’t.
Dangerous operations.
Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about. I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
05-Jun-2022, 07:32 AM (This post was last modified: 05-Jun-2022, 09:54 AM by Lemonyleprosy.)
Okies, here’s where I’m at:
The led/buzzer cable that I initially soldered wasn’t long enough. Extended it, all good. Tried to use those purple gummies- there’s no way to shove them through the FC. I mean, I can, but by the time I do they are so mangled that they’re no longer giving me any isolation from my screws.
Unless I want to mount my FC above my vtx (I don’t- vtx puts out more heat than any other component and I don’t want that heat rising up to my FC) then there is no way for me to access the USB port without removing a prop guard. Guess I better try to do my best to set everything up prior to final assembly.
Apparently HGLRC couldn’t be bothered to mirror the prop guards, so the crossbars and little landing feet are gonna all be going in different directions.
Y’know, I’ve been wanting to try a pusher, and the mounting holes on these prop guards go all the way through… all I’d have to do is figure out how to route my motor wires after I flipped them upside down since the motors mount onto the guards…
Dangerous operations.
Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about. I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
My motor wires for this build are excessively long for two reasons:
1: I honestly don’t expect this build to stay together very long before I cannibalize it for parts. I’m hoping that I’ll be pleasantly surprised and this thing is awesome, but, I am going into it with a negative bias for a number of what I think are valid reasons.
2: Before I cannibalize it I wanna try turning into a pusher, and that will require some longer motor wires for some creative motor wire routing.
Dangerous operations.
Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about. I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
However, I do think that the weak part is the few bolts that hold the prop guards to the frame, especially since the motors are only mounted to the guards with NO support.
If the frame breaks where the whoops mount, that will pretty much take care of that frame, however, if the whoops don't break they could be used on another frame by simply mounting them under the motor which is how many of the prop guards mount anyway.
07-Jun-2022, 07:06 AM (This post was last modified: 07-Jun-2022, 08:00 AM by Lemonyleprosy.)
Here’s my rx to fc wiring in case I’m pulling a bonehead move and wired it wrong.
Diff All is below. Other important bits: JHEMCU SI-F4 Flytower bits (F411 FC). ESC flashed with Bluejay, 48khz. VTX is working fine and dandy. Betaflight 4.3 RC7.
Haven't set up modes yet because rx is not responding.
Target is MatekF411 because that’s what what little documentation I could find on this old stack says it should be.
# serial serial 0 8192 115200 57600 0 115200 serial 1 64 115200 57600 0 115200
# vtxtable vtxtable bands 6 vtxtable channels 8 vtxtable band 1 BOSCAM_A A CUSTOM 5865 5845 5825 5805 5785 5765 5745 5725 vtxtable band 2 BOSCAM_B B CUSTOM 5733 5752 5771 5790 5809 5828 5847 5866 vtxtable band 3 BOSCAM_E E CUSTOM 5705 5685 5665 0 5885 5905 0 0 vtxtable band 4 FATSHARK F CUSTOM 5740 5760 5780 5800 5820 5840 5860 5880 vtxtable band 5 RACEBAND R CUSTOM 5658 5695 5732 5769 5806 5843 5880 5917 vtxtable band 6 IMD6 I CUSTOM 5732 5765 5828 5840 5866 5740 0 0 vtxtable powerlevels 5 vtxtable powervalues 25 100 200 400 600 vtxtable powerlabels 25 100 200 400 600
# master set acc_calibration = -29,19,-196,1 set serialrx_provider = CRSF set motor_pwm_protocol = DSHOT300 set yaw_motors_reversed = ON set vtx_band = 5 set vtx_channel = 8 set vtx_power = 3 set vtx_low_power_disarm = ON set vtx_freq = 5917 set gyro_1_align_yaw = 1800
profile 0
profile 1
profile 2
# restore original profile selection profile 0
rateprofile 0
rateprofile 1
rateprofile 2
rateprofile 3
rateprofile 4
rateprofile 5
# restore original rateprofile selection rateprofile 0
# save configuration save
Dangerous operations.
Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about. I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
(07-Jun-2022, 11:41 AM)iFly4rotors Wrote: I am curious.
Is the SBUS pad inverted on that FC ??
Will ELRS work with an inverted SBUS pad??
Pads marked "SBUS" are always inverted by default on an F4 FC. It is just a normal UART RX pad with an inline hardware inverter to uninvert the inverted SBUS signal that comes in from an SBUS receiver.
The ExpressLRS devs added the "rcvr_invert_tx" option for ELRS receivers to the 2.0 ELRS firmware which when switched on inverts the CRSF signal before outputting it (so it ends up inverted just like an SBUS signal). This then allows the inverted CRSF signal to be fed into F4 FCs which only have an SBUS pad available for the receiver. The inverted CRSF signal then gets uninverted again by the inline hardware inverter on the SBUS line so that a normal uninverted CRSF signal ends up going into the UART on the MCU (which is set in Betaflight to receive a CRSF protocol signal). It's quite a clever way of allowing ELRS to be used on FCs with limited UARTs, one of which only has an SBUS connection.
10-Jun-2022, 06:55 AM (This post was last modified: 10-Jun-2022, 09:00 AM by Lemonyleprosy.)
Whelp. We have another atmospheric river blowing in. It's June, so local rivers shouldn't be on flood watch, but they are, so yay for global warming.
I managed to get two flights in tonight during breaks in the rain, but it's pretty steady buckets of water falling from the sky, so this is a build night. Not a very successful build night though.
I tried downgrading to the last stable version of BF to get this rx to work, no luck. I spent about an hour and a half in the ELRS discord help channel, and we're all just as lost. It should work. I've replaced the EP2 with a known good working EP1 that was on another quad that only has an sbus pad- still didn't work. Hooked up a known good xm rx, and it does work- so it's not the fc. Yay for that!
Okay, fine, for whatever reason this fc doesn't want to work with ELRS. Cool, I'll use the xm. It's a close proximity build so it doesn't really matter.
This bird is getting a dipole antenna because I've destroyed most of my u.fl antennas.
Assembled. Setup. Time to attach props...
...and these 1204 motors apparently aren't high enough for the props to clear the prop guard supports. As a side note, I didn’t use the included motor bolts, because they would have been rubbing all up in my windings. Included bolts were m2 5mm, I used m2 4mm.
Grrrrrrr. Okay. I can switch to 1106 motors, or I can print some 1 or 2mm motor spacers to lift them up. Maybe I’ll end up using those m2 5mm bolts after all, after raising the motors up 1mm.
This bird has officially become my most difficult build so far. Shouldn't be, but it is. Every step seems to cause a new problem.
I *will* get this thing in the air. It's gonna take me a bit though.
I should probably also note that the black tpu V antenna holder is mounted backwards in this build- it wasn’t supposed to be necessary because I was planning on using an ep2 rx with a ceramic antenna, so I went ahead and mounted a ridiculously large capacitor, and was only planning on using that V mount as additional support for the rear ducts since they didn’t have anything else holding them together back there.
Dangerous operations.
Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about. I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
...and these 1204 motors apparently aren't high enough for the props to clear the prop guard supports. As a side note, I didn’t use the included motor bolts, because they would have been rubbing all up in my windings. Included bolts were m2 5mm, I used m2 4mm.
Grrrrrrr. Okay. I can switch to 1106 motors, or I can print some 1 or 2mm motor spacers to lift them up. Maybe I’ll end up using those m2 5mm bolts after all, after raising the motors up 1mm.
...
Hi Lemony,
Now I am a bit confused
First, why do the props need to be higher than the guards?? On my whooped quads, the props sit inside the duct, below the top of the duct. See picture of my Tiny-Black-85which is fitted with 1202 motors.
So, with the props on, is there clearance between the tip of the prop and the side of the duct If there is, then it should be good to go. { 2 inch props, correct? }
If you really want to raise the motors...I have used M2.5 x 5mm nylon standoff columns {the M2 bolt will go through these without hanging up on the threads}... also, iFlight makes spacers that they call "Motor Guards".
10-Jun-2022, 07:53 PM (This post was last modified: 10-Jun-2022, 07:58 PM by Lemonyleprosy.)
The problem is that the props are clipping the supports that go from where the motor mounts to the bottom of the ducts- the motors need to be raised a mm or two in order for the props to sit inside the ducts and not hit the supports.
If you look at what I have my motor wires zip tied to- those supports. It’s hitting right where they connect to the duct.
Dangerous operations.
Disclaimer: I don’t know wtf I’m talking about. I wish I could get the smell of burnt electronics out of my nose.
Sick man you got me wanting to build a whoop now too lol. Been waiting for that HDZero nano cam for it.
I'd caution against TPU motor mounts more than 1mm thick. I generally keep mine to just 0.5mm. I've found that any thicker, to use as riser pads which I've tried before, and they get way too smushy at best requiring you to tighten every flight and at worst causing some funky vibrations which is exactly the opposite of what they were meant to do.