OSD is for cam control with either FC or the joystick usually included in the packaging.

VSEN is for the camera generated OSD to get battery voltage. This is for people that don't have BF OSD. You will not need this.

AUD is for Smartaudio. Controls your VTX through BF CMS menu. You wire it to a free UART TX or softserial TX.

The ground on Hellgate needs to go to ground on FC and not Buz- on FC. Otherwise you will have a constant buzzing.

You want SBUS out to FC SBUS. are you planning to hook up S. Port for telemetry?

Unity Pro:
So do I hook the AUD to TX3 or TX6? I was going to pick TX3, not that I know, hehe. Do I get the 5v and G from the same row that I get the TX(3,6) from, or from under the video section? The spots exist both places. If I use the ones by the TX(3,6) that frees up the 5v under the video for the camera if that matters.

R-XSR:
Do I use the GND, +5v, and SBUS spots that are grouped together? Only SBUS I see on the board and I don't know it it's In or Out. I naturally want telemetry, but I'm foggy as to the process.

You guys are awesome.

Deal

Either TX3 or TX6 will work.

All 5v are on the same rail. So does not matter which one you choose. Pick what works best for your setup.

It is SBUS OUT from R-XSR to SBUS on FC.
For telemetry
https://oscarliang.com/sbus-smartport-telemetry-naze32/

So cut the SBUS In from the R-XSR, SBUS Out to SBUS on FC, +5v to +5v, GND to GND, and S.Port goes on the other TX that I didn't use for the Unity Pro.

TX3 RX3 TX6 RX6. Are there any differences between any of these?

Deal

A given UART port has a TX (transmission) and RX (receive). Generally, RX ports are for radio receiver and ESC telemetry. And TX is for almost everything else. There are exceptions to this. Once you use either a TX or RX, you cannot connect another device. For example, if you use TX3, then you cannot connect anything else to RX3. There is no difference between TX3 or TX6 as far as function. They represent two different ports you can use. Same goes for the RX.

You don't have to cut SBUS IN, just remove the pin from the connector. Lift the little plastic tab holding the pin in. Save the wire with pin, in case you need it in the future. Especially if you don't have the tool to make a new wire when you need it.

Gotcha. Thanks, again. I hope to get this finished this week, if work allows.

Deal

Everything is here, minus good battery straps which arrive Monday or Tuesday. I have one that will work if I need it to. Hell, I'll zip tie one on if i have too, hehe. I'll be finishing up with the build this weekend hopefully. Once it comes to the BetaFlight I will be crawling back here for help I'm sure, hehe.

I got 10 (Xilo 1300mAh/100c should be good enough to start, or are these total crap? Figure I'll smash a few regardless) batteries to start. Figure charge up one for the programming as i don't know when I'll actually be able to fly. Good idea or bad? Charge them all in anticipation of flying this coming week?

Deal

So, a balance/charge, 4s, 1300mAh, 1.3A. Correct?

Deal

Or more amperage? Math and logic tells me to multiply 1.3 by four. I want to get this right. First time, hehe.

Deal

No, 1C charge rate, so you want to charge it at 1.3 amps for long battery life. And don't charge those batteries until you're ready to use them. It's easy to damage lipos if you leave them fully charged for more than a day or two, always leave them at storage level (3.8V) if you're not using them.

Good deal. Charging one at 1.3 so I can set the quad up at least. Thanks.

I assume new batteries come charged to proper storage level?

Deal

You can't assume anything. When you get your packs. Check voltage. Check all cells are close to each other. I have had packs come with bad cells.

(15-Dec-2018, 07:14 PM)Deal-E-O Wrote: I assume new batteries come charged to proper storage level?

They should come pre-charged at a charge voltage of around 15.2-15.4v but like Voodoo, I've also had a brand new LiPo with a bad cell from the off, so it's good to get into the habit of always doing a battery cell/voltage check before you start a charge or discharge cycle, and also before you connect a new charged LiPo to a quad if you want to get really pedantic.

For any batteries you charge up and then don't end up using, always discharge them back to storage voltage as soon as you can. I charge my batteries up on the morning of the day I intend to use them and  as soon as I get back I immediately put any used ones on a charge cycle up to storage charge, and any unused ones on discharge cycle back down to storage charge. So my batteries only remain at full charge or minimum safe voltage for the minimal amount of time.

16.7 charged and 15.2/15.3 out of the box. Good, bad, ugly? 16.7 seems low....

Deal

(15-Dec-2018, 11:09 PM)Deal-E-O Wrote: 16.7 charged and 15.2/15.3 out of the box.  Good, bad, ugly?  16.7 seems low....

My Tattu's came charged at 15.4 out of the box. My charger storage charges them to 15.2. There is an acceptable window for storage charge and both of those values are fine as are yours. Fully charged should be 16.8 so it looks like you're losing 0.025V per cell. Not the end of the world but ever millivolt counts. I guess it depends how OCD you are.

Is it the charger showing that voltage or the battery checker? What are the voltages of the individual cells showing?

Also, you are doing a balance charge aren't you and not just a normal charge?