Got another one.

I need a good charger that will charge multiple batteries at the same time, as well as charge my Fat Shark HDO's.

So many charger/battery options I'm totally lost.

I did however solder my motors and ESC's last night, so something is actually happening, hehe.

Deal

I like ISDT charger. Pick the one appreciate for what you are charging. Basically form factor and how much AMP you need. Some chargers require separate PSU, but is more portable. Field charging using larger lipo is nice. ISDT will charge everything, but you will need to make adapter for some things. To charge multiple lipo, you can get a parallel charging board.

I have an older Imax B6 charger that I use a parallel board. I can charge six XT-30 packs at a time. Also have a newer ISDT SC-608, now discontinued, that I use for charging single packs. Love them both!

When I purchased the IMAX charger, it was about $30 for both the charger (complete with various cables) and a 12vdc power supply. The ISDT was a bit more, about $30 for the charger and $10 for a decent power supply. I also had to build the various connecting cables, so that was likely another $10. I would say that for the money, the B6 charger is reliable and a steal!

IMAX charger is rated at 50W. If you are using 4S 1300mah-1500mah, you can't charge more than 3 lipos at once. I have the IMAX too, and I ran into the limit and it gets annoying especially when you want to charge a tons of packs. For a few more dollars, you will be set for future expansion.

Excellent advice. I do plan on 4S for my first build, and only being able to charge three batteries at once could be an issue.

So a bench charger that plugs into the wall that will charge multiple batteries, and a portable that charges off of a larger LiPo to field charge batteries seems like a good path. By larger are still meaning a 4S just larger size?

I might do some looking today and definately ru. This by you guys before I commit.

Again, my continued thanks.

Deal

ISDT will take 3s-8s. But you will need at least 24V or 6s to take advantage of the charger.

Anyway, JB explains it here.

I too like the ISDT brand, but prefer ISDT D2 charger.  I currently have a Hyperion charger that is getting a little old, about 11-12 years old.  When I replace it, it will be with the ISDT D2.  The D2 doesn't need a power supply.  Just plug into the wall and go...

This is a great PSU for the iSDT Q6 charger:
https://oscarliang.com/lantian-400w-24v-power-supply/
It's 400W, so there is headroom even when it's running at the charger's maximum 300W.

This is the setup I use for field charging with the iSDT charger, a 6S 10000mAh battery:
https://oscarliang.com/charge-lipo-batte...the-field/

I personally prefer the Q6 over the D2 because or portability the PSU is cheap enough to purchase separately and it's more flexible that way

My vote goes to the ISDT Q6 as well! Simply little beast that will handle a lot.

Just to confuse you even more and add another charger into the mix, I was originally looking to get an ISDT D2 but my attention got diverted by the SkyRC Q200 and that is what I ended up buying.

The Q200 can charge 4 batteries at the same time on separate channels without any of the concerns or potential pitfalls of parallel charging which is something I didn't want to get into when I first started dealing with multiple cell LiPos. Like the ISDT D2, it has a built in AC to DC converter and plugs directly into the main so it's really designed for desktop charging. It does however have a XT60 DC socket that can handle a 12-18V input voltage so if you really want to, you can use it to charge out in the field, although I'd say it's a little heavy and bulky for that. I don't (yet) have any need to do field charging so it suits me perfectly

I'm sure this has been covered, but do/can I put the black signal wire on the black (-) ESC battery pad? I do not have a signal ground spot. I was going to....

I have a 6" pigtail. Is that a good length, or should I wait to solder it as it might need to be shortened? I was going to solder it first, because I figure if I mess anything up it would probably be while trying to fill those holes.

Deal

p.s. This is getting fun. I'm hooked....

(30-Nov-2018, 12:55 AM)Deal-E-O Wrote: I'm sure this has been covered, but do/can I put the black signal wire on the black (-) ESC battery pad?  I do not have a signal ground spot.  I was going to....

Yes, you can solder it to the negative ESC pad. You probably already know this but in case you don't, make sure you twist the signal and signal ground wires together where they run from the ESC to the FC. If you also have a telemetry wire then you can alternatively "braid" the three of them together rather than twist them if you want to.

(30-Nov-2018, 12:55 AM)Deal-E-O Wrote: I have a 6" pigtail.  Is that a good length, or should I wait to solder it as it might need to be shortened?  I was going to solder it first, because I figure if I mess anything up it would probably be while trying to fill those holes.

Even though you can cable-tie the pigtail back if it's a little longer than you need, 6" is quite a long pigtail for a 5" quad. You may want to size things up first before you commit to soldering it to the FC. A little bit of slack is useful but too much might just get in the way. I have a 4" pigtail on mine which is slightly on the short side if I'm honest, but another 2" would make it way to long.

Thanks man. I'll hold off on the battery connection. I'll get on the ESC connections. Roger on the black and white being twisted. I'm getting closer....

Deal

Okay, so I think I have everything ready to solder. I just need to clarify where exactly everything goes before I get down to it. For future reference, I'm using a Lumenier F4 AIO FC. Here we go....

Video:
Foxeer Falkor Mini cam has a five pin harness. VCC, GND, VID, OSD, and VSEN. I figured VCC to 12v under video on the board since the camera can take 5-40v and the Unify Pro takes 5v. There is a 5v and a 12v under video on the FC. GND to G. VID to IN which I assume is video in. Not sure about the OSD or VSEN.

TBS Unify Pro 5G8 V3
VID to Out, GND to G, +5v to 5v. Not sure about the AUD.

Hellgate buzzer. There is a 5v buzzer spot on board. GND on buzzer to Buzz -, +5v to Buzz +, Buz- to Buzz- sounded right to me.

FrSky 2.4 GHz ACCST R-XSR.
Not really sure about this. GND, +5v, S.PORT, SBUS OUT/CPPM, SBUS IN is what I'm working with. There is an SBUS on the FC. Not sure in or out.

So, that's that. I was thinking running wires up from under the FC and soldering on the top. Issues? Any interference issues I need to be concerned with when placing the VTX or RX?

Did I miss anything?

Batteries and charger are on the way too.

Deal

p.s. Man, I suck in the simulator, hehe.

(09-Dec-2018, 05:23 PM)Deal-E-O Wrote:  Not sure about the OSD or VSEN.

OSD doesn't need to be connected it's for changing settings using the joystick. VSEN is for monitor battery voltage, if you are using Betaflight OSD then you don't need to connect this pin.

TBS Unify Pro 5G8 V3
Not sure about the AUD.

That's SmartAudio: https://oscarliang.com/vtx-control/


FrSky 2.4 GHz ACCST R-XSR.
Not really sure about this.  GND, +5v, S.PORT, SBUS OUT/CPPM, SBUS IN is what I'm working with.  There is an SBUS on the FC.  Not sure in or out.

5V/GND these are self-explanatory. you want to connect SBUS OUT to your FC's SBUS pin. Not SBUS IN.


So, that's that.  I was thinking running wires up from under the FC and soldering on the top.  Issues?  Any interference issues I need to be concerned with when placing the VTX or RX?

I'd suggest soldering everything on top, it's much easier to repair or change things around later on.