For ELRS, Jumper T-Lite 2 or T-Pro ELRS won't cost a massive amount and will suffice for what you need. Radiomaster Boxer or TX12 ELRS cost a bit more, but are also recommended. If you want something to use and abuse for a few months and then replace, maybe a LiteRadio 2 SE (you might even pick up a used one for cheap). Rx side, pick up any ELRS receiver, but preferably one that comes with a dipole antenna.

I think in regard the parts you bought, others seem to have covered it. That video you used as the basis of your build, the guy is from Canada and as I understand it, they don't have the same legal issues up there, that you have in the US. So flying heavier than 250g isn't so much a problem. Where as US pilots need to get professional qualifications to legally fly with quads over 250g. As ever it's up to you whether you follow the rules or not. But it's something to consider.

So the next bit for me is do you know how to fly safely? You say you are starting out and for your first build you are building a 6S cruise missile capable of killing someone? So if you can fly for 5 mins without crashing in acro mode, then you can probably fly a 6S quad, but it's not going to be ideal. Even 4S for your first quad is sketchy. Another thing is this thing is going to be noisy, like people are going to know you are flying for miles around you, police are maybe going to turn up and check your 107 license, Karens are going to bitch a lot.

As to what you could do to salvage this. Put the motors and Lipo(s) in your parts cupboard. Buy a set of Emax Eco 1407 4100kv and use those on your current frame. Buy 5-6 3S Lipos in a 450-700mAh size and if you buy CNHL, get the cheap ones (Ministar) because you are probably going to wreck them while you learn to fly, for example, these 450mAh would be fine.

https://chinahobbyline.com/collections/u...ug-3-packs

Then build it and fly it. On paper/YT these motors will run 4S as well, so when you want a bit more rip and have enough flight time and experience to not spend all your time smashing into the ground, you can buy some 4S Lipos to run on them.

(28-Feb-2023, 12:27 PM)cst3x6 Wrote: The Apex has a 4inch version as well, which is the same body as the 3 with longer arms. Maybe a compromise would be to get the longer arms in case your 3.5 inch prop doesn't fit.  But keep in mind that there is a relation between motor and prop size. If we go outside of their compatibility range we can easily burn out the motor, esc or both. You can always try to cap the motor on BF when its more powerful, but its and added complexity to your build which comes with risks..

Any particular reason you're doing this on a 3icnh frame?  
Since you're not going for sub 250 an alternative would be to keep this frame for a second build and getting a 5 inch one for this set of components. You would just be buying the new frame with a set of 5inch props..

I may consider the longer arms but the larger frames don't support the stack size I'm using. I checked out one of the models that is the same from but larger and it had additional leg screws that aren't there on the frame I have now.

(28-Feb-2023, 01:08 PM)sevro Wrote: Isn't the main perk on Amazon to be able to return items at will? As Lemony said, maybe you should reconsider your choices. FPV builds can be a little tricky there are a lot of parts that aren't good anywhere or certain combinations that can ruin the whole experience. The correct size prop barely fit at times by the time you've got the battery on there so you definitely want to avoid a slightly longer prop than the frame was meant for. You're just asking for the props to shred the battery and or the battery wiring.

If not using Amazon for the ability to return I've often found them to be more expensive nearly every time I've looked there for specific FPV gear when compared to Racedayquads, GetFPV and Pyrodrone though you need to spend closer to $100 to get "free" shipping at those sites. Particularly when you consider you've already paid a fee for Prime.

The reason I'm not able to return is just because most all of these items are no longer returnable, as theyre opened, have been soldered, etc. The props I bought were paired with the frame and motors I had purchased on Amazon, having seen others using the same combination also. I'm pretty well committed on the parts, but just trying not to actually break anything. If I have to change things later to increase performance in any direction, I'm cool with that learning experience

(28-Feb-2023, 02:09 PM)iFly4rotors Wrote: Hi Logan,

I would strongly suggest returning the FlySky transmitter and receiver.
Since you bought from AMAZON, returns are NO hassle.

If I were just starting out, then I would likely go with ELRS as the RC protocol.

I realize that a decent transmitter is a bit costly, however, getting something
similar to the RadioMaster TX16S MKII is full featured and will last almost
forever so you won't need to buy another one anytime soon. 

I totally agree with Lemony in that the motors are heavy for a 3 inch or even
a 4 inch and don't really get you anything. Also, have you considered the motor
mount hole spacing? Those big motors have a wider spacing and use thicker
mounting bolts than the frame is likely drilled for. 

What do you expect from this build?  Racing? Super Freestyle? Other?

It is always better to define the purpose and then build something that is 
specific to the intended use. Especially at first, you might want to follow
the specs from others or even factory BNF builds for the type of quad that
you want to build.

Bigger is better, until it isn't. 

With all the heavy gear, I suppose that you are not concerned about the weight
as this beast will likely be over 250 grams. If so, do you plan to register the
drone, install remote ID, use commercially {leading question here}, and do you
have or plan to get a Part 107 pilot's license? Basically, have you reviewed and
considered the FAA regulations?  While this might sound silly, it is REAL nonetheless.
As the saying goes: Ignorance of the law is no excuse. 

I will definitely be upgrading if this hobby sticks, but I had researched a decent bit into this being a decent place to start if unsure. I actually have two of them, as I bought one for my son so we could use the sims together to learn. 

The motors are already mounted and I had confirmed the hole spacing prior to purchase, as well as the prop fitment, which was a recommended pair on Amazon (as well as being the same config others I was watching on youtube). 

I really wanted to just build something fast, with fpv capability, and hopefully, the ability to carry a camera for some hobby photography. The motors I just went big with, as well as the battery. I will probably have to get at least a different battery and throttle down the motors from what's being suggested, but I am just hoping to get this powered with nothing getting burnt out as of now. I'm definitely aware this will be a learning experience and I'll likely be making some changes. 

I'll be researching more as I learn and taking all the advice in mind as I'm learning about the hobby with my son

Hi Logan,

I would watch your amp draw. Put the amp draw on the OSD and just be careful not to
exceed the 35A rating on the ESC; 35x4 = 140 Amps total. Although I don't have specs
on your motors, 35A seems a bit marginal for them.

Well, there are a couple of ways to tone things down a bit.  On the one hand, limiting the
throttle is probably a good idea, however, you might try a flight or two first just to see how
the quad performs. When I build a quad, I like to taker her out for a spin or two just to get
a baseline before I start tinkering around with things like tuning and limiting. Maybe you do 
need to change something, then again, maybe you don't. 

I go by the following philosophy:

If it Ain't Broke, then Don't Fix It.

Still, keep an eye on the amp draw until you are sure you won't cook the ESC. 

iFly 

Regarding not burning anything out, I just checked those motor specs. They are only rated for 4s. The batteries you bought are 6s.

So if you don’t want to burn them out, you will need to set a motor output limit of 66%. Make sure you set a motor output limit- this is not the same as a throttle limit. A motor output limit will make sure that your motors never receive more than 4s voltage when running on a 6s battery. A throttle limit will still allow your motors to spin faster when the pids tell it to, which would allow them to burn out.

You’re also dangerously close to the limit of your esc rating. They are rated for 35A. The 3200kv version of those motors, on 4s with 3” props pulls 33.06A peak. If you fit those 3.5” props on them, you will very likely be exceeding the 35A rating of your esc’s.

To be safe, you might want to set an even lower motor output limit.

Edit- iFly4rotors beat me to it.

(28-Feb-2023, 10:55 PM)iFly4rotors Wrote: Hi Logan,

I would watch your amp draw. Put the amp draw on the OSD and just be careful not to
exceed the 35A rating on the ESC; 35x4 = 140 Amps total. Although I don't have specs
on your motors, 35A seems a bit marginal for them.

Well, there are a couple of ways to tone things down a bit.  On the one hand, limiting the
throttle is probably a good idea, however, you might try a flight or two first just to see how
the quad performs. When I build a quad, I like to taker her out for a spin or two just to get
a baseline before I start tinkering around with things like tuning and limiting. Maybe you do 
need to change something, then again, maybe you don't. 

I go by the following philosophy:

If it Ain't Broke, then Don't Fix It.

Still, keep an eye on the amp draw until you are sure you won't cook the ESC. 

iFly 

I had seen something recently that had prompted me question compatibility with the ESC's but I can't remember what it was. I believe I have preset the throttle down to 25% in betaflight already but I'll have to check it through again before powering up with a battery. I also bought a smoke stopper device as a precaution, too.

(28-Feb-2023, 10:58 PM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Regarding not burning anything out, I just checked those motor specs. They are only rated for 4s. The batteries you bought are 6s.

So if you don’t want to burn them out, you will need to set a motor output limit of 66%. Make sure you set a motor output limit- this is not the same as a throttle limit. A motor output limit will make sure that your motors never receive more than 4s voltage when running on a 6s battery. A throttle limit will still allow your motors to spin faster when the pids tell it to, which would allow them to burn out.

You’re also dangerously close to the limit of your esc rating. They are rated for 35A. The 3200kv version of those motors, on 4s with 3” props pulls 33.06A peak. If you fit those 3.5” props on them, you will very likely be exceeding the 35A rating of your esc’s.

To be safe, you might want to set an even lower motor output limit.

Edit- iFly4rotors beat me to it.

Oof, it sounds like I'll definitely have to throttle it down pretty low to be safe. That's alright for now, I'll probably buy some 4s batteries in the near future, as well as some smaller motors from the sound of things.

(01-Mar-2023, 02:05 AM)LoganFPV Wrote: Oof, it sounds like I'll definitely have to throttle it down pretty low to be safe. That's alright for now, I'll probably buy some 4s batteries in the near future, as well as some smaller motors from the sound of things.

650mah to 850mah 4s would be a good size for that frame, but even using 4s batteries you’ll still want to set a motor output limit of maybe 85% on it to keep your amp draw within your esc rating with 3.5” props.

(28-Feb-2023, 06:50 PM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: For ELRS, Jumper T-Lite 2 or T-Pro ELRS won't cost a massive amount and will suffice for what you need.  Radiomaster Boxer or TX12 ELRS cost a bit more, but are also recommended.  If you want something to use and abuse for a few months and then replace, maybe a LiteRadio 2 SE (you might even pick up a used one for cheap).  Rx side, pick up any ELRS receiver, but preferably one that comes with a dipole antenna.

I think in regard the parts you bought, others seem to have covered it.  That video you used as the basis of your build, the guy is from Canada and as I understand it, they don't have the same legal issues up there, that you have in the US.  So flying heavier than 250g isn't so much a problem.  Where as US pilots need to get professional qualifications to legally fly with quads over 250g.  As ever it's up to you whether you follow the rules or not.  But it's something to consider.

So the next bit for me is do you know how to fly safely?  You say you are starting out and for your first build you are building a 6S cruise missile capable of killing someone?  So if you can fly for 5 mins without crashing in acro mode, then you can probably fly a 6S quad, but it's not going to be ideal.  Even 4S for your first quad is sketchy.  Another thing is this thing is going to be noisy, like people are going to know you are flying for miles around you, police are maybe going to turn up and check your 107 license, Karens are going to bitch a lot.

As to what you could do to salvage this.  Put the motors and Lipo(s) in your parts cupboard.  Buy a set of Emax Eco 1407 4100kv and use those on your current frame.  Buy 5-6 3S Lipos in a 450-700mAh size and if you buy CNHL, get the cheap ones (Ministar) because you are probably going to wreck them while you learn to fly, for example, these 450mAh would be fine.  

https://chinahobbyline.com/collections/u...ug-3-packs

Then build it and fly it.  On paper/YT these motors will run 4S as well, so when you want a bit more rip and have enough flight time and experience to not spend all your time smashing into the ground, you can buy some 4S Lipos to run on them.

I greatly appreciate the information you provided on recovery options! I started researching what you provided and have found these, as I prefer to stick to amazon. Would these work? I'll probably still be throttling things down pretty severely getting started. I do have some experience flying drones, both real world and in sim, but this is the first foray into FPV.

Motors, XING 1404 4600kv
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TG2...HONZ&psc=1


Batteries, 1500mah 4S from CNHL
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V1T...C73N&psc=1

Or Batteries, 850mAh 4S by BETAFPV
https://www.amazon.com/BETAFPV-Battery-S...181&sr=8-4

Yes, but the batteries are too heavy. I wouldn't go any higher than maybe 700mAh. Big batteries are for more long range flights than cruising or freestyle. If you powerloop with a heavy battery you might find it exceptionally hard to pull out, sort of like trying to powerloop a house brick.

Also bear in mind that every crash with this build is going to cost a lot of money to fix. A new motor $16, props (variable), new frame parts or new frame (whatever you paid for it) I don't fly anything that heavy and if you manage to burn out the ESC or kill the FC then it will probably hurt a lot. If you had asked before buying we would have told you to buy something small that you can smash up and repair, that wouldn't cost you a lot to fix. In fact if you can afford it, I would still suggest you buy a 1S whoop, like a Mobula7 or similar sized whoop. If you break it, it will cost you far less to fix than the 3".

Get some cheap, light lipos until you get the whole flying bit down. You will want to fly for probably no more than 3 mins per pack until you get a real handle on it. Three mins is a long time when you are starting out and I can get that (easily) from a 550mAh (and more likely 3-4 mins of acro).

Also the prices are expensive on Amazon. Get them directly from CNHL, who usually have deals on things. Something like below would be ideal and they ship from their US warehouse, so delivery should be pretty quick. Also those 1500mAh Lipos weigh nearly 200g. Start with a Lipo weight around 60g and learn to fly. For a 200g battery, you are going to need a Part107 license since your total weight will be far in excess of 250g, or I suppose risk the $10000+ fine and possible jail time.

https://chinahobbyline.com/collections/c...6886482134

EDIT: those 1404 motors have 9x9 motor mounting pattern. Your initial large motor purchase had 12x12 motor mounting. Measure your frame to make sure that it can fit 9x9.

Those 1404 motors are perfect, and they’ll fly well on 3s or 4s. They’ll also pull considerably less amperage, so you won’t have to worry about your esc’s.

I fly 850mah 4s batteries on my 3” and 3.5” builds, but as Pathfinder noted, they are a bit heavy.
They will work just fine though.
1500mah will not, it is way too big.

The CNHL battery Pathfinder linked to is a good choice.

If you want to stick with batteries you can purchase through amazon, try these 4s 650mah GNB batteries:
https://www.amazon.com/GANENG-650mAh-Bat...th=1&psc=1

For something more tame, try these 3s 850mah GNB batteries (as you go down in cell count you can go up a bit in mah while still saving weight):
https://www.amazon.com/Gaoneng-850mAh-11...ast_sto_dp

Edit- personally, I’d stay away from the betafpv brand batteries. I’ve had excellent experiences with CNHL batteries, and GNB is also recognized as a good battery brand.
I’d also suggest getting the 3800kv version of those motors rather than the 4600kv version.

Everyone probably has a different preference, but I think a 3.5" build strikes a nice balance for starting out and my favorite size to fly (not too loud, not heavy enough to do too much damage, not too big for the backyard, easily carry HD cam and digital, good flight times). I see a lot of amazon links, and sure everyone shops differently, but just wanted to mention for drone stuff there are a lot of good online shops as well (like RaceDayQuads and Pyrodrone). Prices tend to be better than Amazon especially if you're getting parts for a complete build, they ship quickly (but does take a few days to arrive), most have decent customer service/support, and more importantly I find it a lot easier to browse/search for parts the way their websites are arranged.

(01-Mar-2023, 04:01 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Those 1404 motors are perfect, and they’ll fly well on 3s or 4s. They’ll also pull considerably less amperage, so you won’t have to worry about your esc’s.

I fly 850mah 4s batteries on my 3” and 3.5” builds, but as Pathfinder noted, they are a bit heavy.
They will work just fine though.
1500mah will not, it is way too big.

The CNHL battery Pathfinder linked to is a good choice.

If you want to stick with batteries you can purchase through amazon, try these 4s 650mah GNB batteries:
https://www.amazon.com/GANENG-650mAh-Bat...th=1&psc=1

For something more tame, try these 3s 850mah GNB batteries (as you go down in cell count you can go up a bit in mah while still saving weight):
https://www.amazon.com/Gaoneng-850mAh-11...ast_sto_dp

Edit- personally, I’d stay away from the betafpv brand batteries. I’ve had excellent experiences with CNHL batteries, and GNB is also recognized as a good battery brand.
I’d also suggest getting the 3800kv version of those motors rather than the 4600kv version.

I just snatched up those motors and the 650mah batteries. My wife will probably kill me if I ever speak aloud how much I've spent on this project.

Edit: Oh yes, I had confirmed it is compatible for both 9x9 and 12x12

(01-Mar-2023, 04:21 AM)LoganFPV Wrote: I just snatched up those motors and the 650mah batteries. My wife will probably kill me if I ever speak aloud how much I've spent on this project.

I just edited my post.
Those 1404’s have a 9x9 motor mounting pattern. Your original large motors had a 12x12 motor mounting pattern. You need to measure the motor holes on your arms real quick and make sure they’ll fit, otherwise you’ll need to cancel that motor order. My apologies.