Hello gang! Well with COVID still the big news I’m building this instead of my racer. 
Soooo snow and ice in south Texas! I’m sure my order for motors and camera and all the other goodies are frozen in the quantum space time continuum somewhere, cause it ain’t here! So I’m stuck inside cause idiots in TX don’t know how to drive in this , it’s so very probable someone will run into you! So this is kinda my excitement today because I’m snowed in! So this is just for fun, serious build pics to come. I should be building today but...super excited to join the LR crowd with a screamer but also a LR cruiser. This is what I have planned so far. Does anyone have any battery thoughts, like how many mah I can go? Thinking 6S but may jump it up to 7S if components will allow. Haven’t really researched that much on what size will work. Crazy snow for here! It’s not but every 40 years it gets down to 8F.
@kaitylynn this props for you. I know nothing! (Pun intended)

Build specs:
Armattan Chameleon 7” TI LR frame
Lumenier lux F7 ultimate 
Lumenier 55-65 4-1 ESC
TBS unify pro 32HV
Frsky MXR9 OTA receiver
Brother hobby avenger 2810 1500KV
Foxeer T-Rex 1500TVL 1.7 camera
Matek M9M-5883 GPS
Various props of different pitches
Green/black toxic wire braid


I think the landscaping is dead fosure!

i think that you can go even over 4200mah with thease motors ;D
ps nice grinder =]

wow. killer parts.
Beast class.

2810 is huge (and heavy) for 7"
Xing2 has 3106 and Kabab fpvcycle also has 310x

Maybe the weak spot is the frame.
Website says 4mm, 303mm and 150g. Thats not thick/strong enough. 6mm min for 7"+ or untunable frame resonance.

Would that be more for replaceable arms? Not many frames come unibody anymore.

Today just seeing how much spread I can get between the FC and ESC. The chameleon only has 22mm of headroom.  Cutting it close, I’m at 20.50mm with 24mm screws. Looks like that will allow good airflow with 7.3mm between and 5.75mm off the frame. One thing I noticed with the FC is that to access the micro USB port/micro sd from the side the motor connector has to be on the outside. Not sure if I’m ok with that. If I turn it, my camera wires won’t reach! Will have to ponder on that one. Learning from my first build, just figure the height of the stack using one screw and don’t fight having all four screws in! Those little silicone spacers are tight and you could damage the board trying to slide down multiple times. This is where purchasing the extra screws and spacers really came in handy.  Just temporarily mounted the motors with two screws to see how long to make the braided wire sleeves. Check to make sure the motor mount screws don’t touch windings! 8mm worked perfect with the TPU soft motor mount/arm protectors. Going with a toxic green overall look on this build, a little disappointed about the darker green and black. I thought it was going to be a little brighter green and black.



I really like the heat shrink idea. Really neatens things up!

(28-Feb-2021, 09:59 PM)Kevin2112 Wrote: Today just seeing how much spread I can get between the FC and ESC. The chameleon only has 22mm of headroom.  Cutting it close, I’m at 20.50mm with 24mm screws. Looks like that will allow good airflow with 7.3mm between and 5.75mm off the frame. One thing I noticed with the FC is that to access the micro USB port/micro sd from the side the motor connector has to be on the outside. Not sure if I’m ok with that. If I turn it, my camera wires won’t reach! Will have to ponder on that one. Learning from my first build, just figure the height of the stack using one screw and don’t fight having all four screws in! Those little silicone spacers are tight and you could damage the board trying to slide down multiple times. This is where purchasing the extra screws and spacers really came in handy.  Just temporarily mounted the motors with two screws to see how long to make the braided wire sleeves. Check to make sure the motor mount screws don’t touch windings! 8mm worked perfect with the TPU soft motor mount/arm protectors. Going with a toxic green overall look on this build, a little disappointed about the darker green and black. I thought it was going to be a little brighter green and black.

Kevin—

Where at in south Texas are you?  I’m in north Houston, TX and caught quite a bit of snow myself.

I have a few videos but I havent posted it.

Last, what do you consider Long Range?  I’m curious where you plan on flying this in Texas to not have power lines and WiFi routers killing your range!

(01-Mar-2021, 04:32 AM)luispequeno Wrote: Kevin—

Where at in south Texas are you?  I’m in north Houston, TX and caught quite a bit of snow myself.

I have a few videos but I havent posted it.

Last, what do you consider Long Range?  I’m curious where you plan on flying this in Texas to not have power lines and WiFi routers killing your range!

I live out near luling along 10. There’s nobody around here. I think long range is how far and what I have to walk through to get a crashed quad. I’d like to earn that 5km badge someday! I’ve not noticed even big power lines effecting the quad. My cousins got some of those couple hundred feet tall ones. I’ve never had even static in my googles from them. I’ve never had WiFi interference so don’t even know what that would appear as.

(01-Mar-2021, 04:46 AM)Kevin2112 Wrote: I live out near luling along 10. There’s nobody around here. I think long range is how far and what I have to walk through to get a crashed quad. I’d like to earn that 5km badge someday! I’ve not noticed even big power lines effecting the quad. My cousins got some of those couple hundred feet tall ones. I’ve never had even static in my googles from them. I’ve never had WiFi interference so don’t even know what that would appear as.

That’s awesome, I guess that is still South Texas.....

On a diff.note I’m considering going to the hill country area (San Antonio) to find some hills and fly....

Is there anything near you similar to this?  My max range has been 1.1km so far....

Sweet man, I will look into those place in the future. — I’m looking to drive 2-3hrs west of Houston and pull over somewhere, do a long range fly, and go back home LOL

I had FPV Crate package fall off the map due to the snow storm. It shipped on 2/12 (from Florida) and arrived today, 2/28 LOL.

Then I had a Rush Solo come from ProgressiveRC (from Seattle Washington) and it shipped on 2/22 and arrived yesterday 2/27.

So depending where your stuff is coming from and when it left... you could have FredEX packages stuck somewhere — I would like to see videos of this 7” LR drone... it seems like it’ll be heavy, need a larger battery pack, but probably tons of thrust to carry it all.

The best feature of heavy drones (from what I see/read, not from experience) is they do very well with cinematic type flying. I have 3 - 5” drones and they’re all pretty much on the heavy side.. so they fly real steady (in my opinion) — my lightest one I use to do freestyle stuff!!

Going to temporarily mount the VTX today. After consideration I’m going to put in front of stack. There’s more room  then the back. This VTX is not small either. After measuring there will be 4mm between top plate and VTX. I did not soft mount this, I guess you could soft mount but I think in this case I’ll just put on nylon threaded spaces. Had to make custom 13mm ones so everything will fit and M2x 25mm screws. I just took out the factory screws and substituted the longer ones. So far looks like it’s going to work. I drilled the holes with a template made from tracing paper. Just paint ends of screws with sharpie and press on paper. The actual piece I used had way smaller markings, you wouldn’t see them if I didn’t exaggerate the size. Used a drill press and shopvac with the exhaust hose out the door. Removed the VTX for soldering motors. 

Next, soldering up motors. There are 12 pads for motors. Four groups of three. These three wire motors do not care which wire goes to which pad in the group of three. All the wire connections are fine in the example. These are 3Phase motors. If you switch any 2 wires it just changes the direction the motor will rotate. Will sort the motor direction in blheli 32 latter on. When soldering, tin the wires and the pads first. Then solder the wires to the pads. You can’t use to much flux! It cleans up real easy with  91% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush. This is where the reverse tweezers really help. Race day quads have some decent ones for $5.00. I did my last build without them....much easier to hold and place wires with them! I like to solder 1 motor at a time. I’m sure you can do them all at one just make sure you don’t get the wires crossed with a different motor pad. Not sure what would happen but I’m sure it won’t be good. After all wire soldered clean pads and wires of the excess flux. Go over your soldering with a magnifying glass for any bridges that might have occurred while soldering one. If you find a bridge it’s no problem to fix. Just pick one of the bridged motor tabs and apply a generous amount of flux to it. Apply the soldering iron on the opposite side of the solder bridge and reheat. The bridge should melt and come towards the iron side. Move the iron around a little if it doesn’t come over. Just keep the heat source on the far side of the bridge.  Make sure your iron is shiny clean for this. The last check I’ll do is with a continuity checker. There should be no continuity between ground and each motor tab and no continuity between any of the motor tabs. Doing this now will help if you have a problem down the road. You know your soldering on the esc is good.

Is this flying yet? What size of battery did you go with?

I have Emax 2807 eco ii 1500kv coming in soon — these are good for 3s-5s and I think I’m going with 4s so I can have the best flight times — I’m gonna end up playing with batteries though..

So I’m curious if you’ve done playing around w/batteries yet?

No it’s not flying yet. It’s as far as the build pictures go. I was waiting for a piece. Now I have everything I will start to finish it. Still not sure what I’m going to do with the RX antenna and gps.

build it! :-) i like to see how the huge motors work on that frame and how it performs :-)

Hi Kevin,

GOOD LOOKING Build      Very CLEAN.    

I like the paracord for the motor wires.    

Look forward to seeing the finished quad.