TBH the ESC telemetry pad offers very little benefit these days. It's probably not even worth the hassle of connecting it up and wasting a UART. All it really offers is individual motor RPM, temperature, and current draw, but the current draw telemetry doesn't usually work if the ESC has analogue current measuring sensor (a single shunt resistor), and with bi-directional DSHOT switched on, RPM data is sent back to the FC via the standard ESC data connection and not via the telemetry line. So that just leaves ESC temperature, but I don't know of anyone who uses that. Having 4 temperature readings in your OSD just clutters up the screen for no real benefit.

So I got some more configuring to do. Hopefully the weather turns good today.
Before I screw with the settings on this one I’m going to read a ton of stuff on how to set it up right for 7”. I’m convinced I got a bad esc but I sat on it so long nobody would rightly take it back. So an expensive lesson on what not to do when you don’t know what you did. @V22 if you want a practice esc I’d really like to know what happened to it!! Well going to put the finishing touches and then start testing it out

The new Tmotor F7 stack worked right out of the box with default BF settings! No fluttering towards the sky, just smooth awesome power. I 'm guessing I just got a bad stack cause i didn't change a thing except solder in the new stack! Now I've got a few questions about motor temperature. After doing multiple tests of 1 min the motors get warm not hot. Is this normal for bigger motors. Haven't got into much changing of blheli 32 settings but messed with the timing and ramp up power. It sounds best at 17' with a 40% ramp up power. Setting at Oscars 22' did make the motors noticeably warmer so backed it back down till I got to 17'. Now I'd like to reduce the heat in the motors. Throw your ideas at me! After lunch I'm going to change the PWM to 48K and see what that does. Switching dmag from low to high didn't really change temp noticeably so I set it back to low. Its really a lot of data, I started a spread sheet.

Here’s a picture of the new stack soldered in! So far it’s been out on several around the front yard LOS flights. Now to go down the rabbit hole to get the perfect tune. Does anyone know what temperature these larger motors run at? I’m sure the generate more heat but how much more? Is there a range of temperatures to stay within? I got a hand held infrared gun cause doing this with a contact thermometer was going to take way to long. 

All I can say is wow! I’m going to need bigger batteries for the chameleon. Took it out and flew a few packs and this thing really   and gets! Thanks hugs for suggesting these motors! They now sound like that video of the brother hobby 2810’s. The flight characteristics are very different then the 5”.  It seems to glide more when throttle cut instead of just dropping. Propwash, huh this beast is not affected at all.  You can drop it right through the wash and not even a twitch.

Be careful with the temperature because I already had to replace 2motors because of probably temperature -stators glue failed and they started to move and broke wire finally :/

For battery consider this long gnb 4500mah it is 500g but gives you ability to fly about 10-20 min depends on the throttle

I’ve managed to keep motor temp pretty low. I haven’t altered the filter sliders but I did adjust the low notch filter. I ran back to back packs and the motor temp was 100-104F. The most info I could gleam from the internet was you don’t want to exceed 140-160F, dependent on who was talking. I think you would benefit from the Tmotor stack. My motors just sounded terrible on the lux7 razor 55 stack. It flew just fine before changing any settings. No matter what I did with that other stack it flew like crap! 
    How many cells are you talking about for the battery? I’ve looked at 6S and they are way to big in that size. Cause I need bigger batteries or I’m gonna be stuck with 4min flight times!

6s only
https://banggood.com/Gaoneng-GNB-22_8V-4...ID=6299051

(29-May-2021, 08:26 PM)Kevin2112 Wrote: Here’s a picture of the new stack soldered in! So far it’s been out on several around the front yard LOS flights. Now to go down the rabbit hole to get the perfect tune. Does anyone know what temperature these larger motors run at? I’m sure the generate more heat but how much more? Is there a range of temperatures to stay within? I got a hand held infrared gun cause doing this with a contact thermometer was going to take way to long. 

Generally, if the motors are too hot to hold, you'll wanna ratchet back the tuning / apply more filtering.  Although I've always wanted to take out the temp gun and really note the data between "cool" and "too hot" motors.

I was flying back to back packs and never hit but 102F and they rapidly cool off. I’ll give them a little more filtering to see if I can get it down lower. My 2306 1700 on 6S do not even start to get warm but there not pulling as many amps either.

@D00lar you’re flying the chameleon 7” also correct? Does the battery fit on the top plate or does it hang off the back. I put my gps up where the GoPro would go so that cuts a little off of how far forward I can mount the battery. To far forward will block some of the gps. When I build this I didn’t figure in the need for large batteries…. They are expensive yikes!

did you explore startup/rampup power?

Yes, I turned it down to 35, any more below that and it got a real mushy feeling on the throttle.

yep i did lowered runpup power also and also feel beter and no vibrations recorded on onboard mic and there was a lot of thease before!

!kevin no i have projecr 399 super g plus