Hi everyone, new here and new to flying as well.

Currently learning to fly indoor with the NewBeeDrone Hummingbird F4 Pro, really enjoying it.

I'm thinking of building a HD whoop which can be fly both indoor and outdoor.

As I'm new to this, I need some advise on the below build, what do everyone think?

Recommendations/suggestions for better parts are highly welcome 

Frame: NewBeeDrone 75mm cockroach frame
Flight controller: Crazybee X V2.2 
Motor: NBD silver motor 0703 16420kv
Camera: Runcam split 3 lite
Canopy: Mobula6 canopy
Props: Gemfan 1635 50mm

I believe no soldering is requires for the above parts, should be able to plug and play everything.

Hi chinti,

Well, it looks like the parts might work and maybe are plug and play. I am assuming that the motors have connectors that match the Crazybee board so that should be plug in and go. The camera appears to have a plug as well, however, I am not sure that the Crazybee board has a connector for the camera. Also, with the camera, you have to be careful that the wires match. I find that many of the cameras are actually NOT wired the same as normal connectors. You just have to be careful.

Also, be sure that the camera fits decently into the canopy. 

I am taking it that you don't know how to solder {{- YET -}}

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Frame: NewBeeDrone 75mm cockroach frame
Flight controller: Crazybee X V2.2          <- Do you have a link to this board?
Motor: NBD silver motor 0703 16420kv  <- Do you have a link to these motors?
Camera: Runcam split 3 lite
Canopy: Mobula6 canopy
Props: Gemfan 1635 50mm

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Hey, thanks for the feedback.
Here's the link for the AIO and motor

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/ha...se-your-rx

https://newbeedrone.com/products/0703-si...5-cable-x4

Yea, I'm still learning how to solder but it's no problem even if it's not plug and play. I can slowly learn and solder it.

Hi chinti,

Interestingly, I just gave a recommendation to another member CLICK HERE. 

Personally, I think the GEPRC F4 v1.2 12A AIO is a better board and about $10 less money. Plus, it is in stock at RDQ.

Ah yes, soldering. Well, there must be a million YouTube videos {some better than others} and there are at least a few different threads on this forum {with various approaches and methodologies}. 

The fundamental concept that somehow seems to get glossed over is how soldering actually works {and it works the same way whether working on electronics, automotive electrical systems, or sweating copper pipe}. The basic principle is that solder, with the help of flux, will bond to Hot Metal {copper pads, wire, pipe joints}. So, if you put flux on a copper or brass pad, heat the pad, then touch the solder, it will bond. The iron or torch is used to heat the metal, not melt the solder. 

To illustrate this, 
take a wire {smaller rather than larger}, 
remove some insulation, 
add some flux, 
put some solder on the tip of the iron,
hold a HOT iron to the side of the wire, and 
touch solder to the top of the wire,
When the wire heat ups the solder will flow and bond to it. 

The biggest mistake that people make is trying to "melt" solder onto a cold piece of metal. This DOES NOT WORK and will result in a cold solder joint. They call it that, because the metal was not hot when solder was applied; it was cold. 

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That said, sometimes the pad is so tiny that you have to put some solder on the tip of the iron and then touch the pad; just long enough to heat the pad and bond a drop of solder. Usually, this is about a second.

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The temperature of the iron is less critical, but it must be hotter than the melting point of solder; 63/37 solder melts at 183 degrees Celsius, so the iron should minimally be higher than that temperature. A lot of people set the iron between 260C and 350C. 

How to Solder Guide for FPV Beginners - Oscar Liang

good morning, thanks for all the links. im watching a tons of video on soldering right now while practicing on a mamba practice board.

is flux a must during soldering?

im also having a bit of dilemma right now.

i have been thinking maybe i should just build a 3inch quads instead of an outdoor whoop.

the cost is maybe around 100~150usd more but it seems more worthwhile?

with a 3inch i can pretty much fly anywhere outdoor without worrying much about winds and i can also mount my gopro on it.

(30-Dec-2020, 02:20 AM)chinti Wrote: good morning, thanks for all the links. im watching a tons of video on soldering right now while practicing on a mamba practice board.

is flux a must during soldering?   YES. Most rosin core solder has flux inside, but extra flux really does help a lot.

im also having a bit of dilemma right now.

i have been thinking maybe i should just build a 3inch quads instead of an outdoor whoop.

the cost is maybe around 100~150usd more but it seems more worthwhile?

with a 3inch i can pretty much fly anywhere outdoor without worrying much about winds and i can also mount my gopro on it.

Hi chinti,

Well, a 3 inch cinewhoop can be flown both indoors and outdoors; plus it can carry a GoPro. 
If you could only build one, then this might be a really good option. 

My Phantom-X is basically a 4 inch quad, but the other day, I installed 3 inch pop guards and 3 inch tri-blade props.
Interestingly, if you build a 4 inch, you have a nice open prop build, but you can use 3 inch guards and props when you want a "whoop". Sort of the best of both worlds. In fact, I have started a build, FrankenFly-2-4, using a 4 inch frame base, but Taycan 2.5 inch ducts with 2.5 inch props. I will try it out. If I want a change, I can remove the ducts and use either 3 inch or 4 inch props. 
I am expecting this build to cost a little over $200 USD by the time it is finished. Also, I am estimating the finished dry weight of the craft to be about 160 grams.