Had a mild crash into a wall with my tinyhawk 3. At first, wouldn’t even power on, but now it powers on without the secondary beeps. Im pretty sure its an fc problem. No osd, and no rx, but everything else seems to work just fine.

A few questions.. was it operational at all? Did u fly it? Did u crash it? Did u update it? Does it respond in betaflight?

Sounds like the 5v regulator is dead, or, a wire came loose and is shorting out the 5v rail.
Make sure all wiring is good.

You can confirm it’s the 5v regulator by seeing if it will connect to betaflight via usb.

If it does, than it is most likely the 5v regulator, in which case you’ve got a couple options:
-Purchase a replacement aio FC
-Supply 5v to the 5v rail externally

If you run 1s batteries, you would need a voltage booster:
https://www.racedayquads.com/products/ma...gJGrvD_BwE

If you run 2s batteries, you’ll need a 5v bec:
https://www.racedayquads.com/products/ma...gLA-vD_BwE

In either case, you’ll wire the input to your main power wires. On the output, you’ll wire the 5v out to a 5v pad on the FC.

Third option is to replace the bit on the board itself if you’re capable of smd work.

I believe the person who responded above (Rob Axel) is one of our resident tiny hawk experts, so he may have another solution.

(14-Nov-2022, 12:42 AM)Rob Axel Wrote: A few questions.. was it operational at all? Did u fly it? Did u crash it? Did u update it? Does it respond in betaflight?

I flew it before. Worked before the crash fine.

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(14-Nov-2022, 12:49 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Sounds like the 5v regulator is dead, or, a wire came loose and is shorting out the 5v rail.
Make sure all wiring is good.

You can confirm it’s the 5v regulator by seeing if it will connect to betaflight via usb.

If it does, than it is most likely the 5v regulator, in which case you’ve got a couple options:
-Purchase a replacement aio FC
-Supply 5v to the 5v rail externally

If you run 1s batteries, you would need a voltage booster:
https://www.racedayquads.com/products/ma...gJGrvD_BwE

If you run 2s batteries, you’ll need a 5v bec:
https://www.racedayquads.com/products/ma...gLA-vD_BwE

In either case, you’ll wire the input to your main power wires. On the output, you’ll wire the 5v out to a 5v pad on the FC.

Third option is to replace the bit on the board itself if you’re capable of smd work.

I believe the person who responded above (Rob Axel) is one of our resident tiny hawk experts, so he may have another solution.

Ok.

(14-Nov-2022, 12:49 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Sounds like the 5v regulator is dead, or, a wire came loose and is shorting out the 5v rail.
Make sure all wiring is good.

You can confirm it’s the 5v regulator by seeing if it will connect to betaflight via usb.

If it does, than it is most likely the 5v regulator, in which case you’ve got a couple options:
-Purchase a replacement aio FC
-Supply 5v to the 5v rail externally

If you run 1s batteries, you would need a voltage booster:
https://www.racedayquads.com/products/ma...gJGrvD_BwE

If you run 2s batteries, you’ll need a 5v bec:
https://www.racedayquads.com/products/ma...gLA-vD_BwE

In either case, you’ll wire the input to your main power wires. On the output, you’ll wire the 5v out to a 5v pad on the FC.

Third option is to replace the bit on the board itself if you’re capable of smd work.

I believe the person who responded above (Rob Axel) is one of our resident tiny hawk experts, so he may have another solution.

Did not connect to betaflight. What would be the best option? I can solder. I also use 1s batteries.

(14-Nov-2022, 12:42 AM)Rob Axel Wrote: A few questions.. was it operational at all? Did u fly it? Did u crash it? Did u update it? Does it respond in betaflight?

No betaflight response.

(14-Nov-2022, 02:03 AM)LDR_R4ndom Wrote: Did not connect to betaflight. What would be the best option? I can solder. I also use 1s batteries.

Then it sounds like you’re not getting voltage on the 5v or 3.3v, or your mcu is dead. Does the mcu (main stm32 chip) get hot when it’s plugged in?
Unless Rob says otherwise, I think it might be toast, and you’re gonna have to get a new fc.

(14-Nov-2022, 02:23 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Then it sounds like you’re not getting voltage on the 5v or 3.3v, or your mcu is dead. Does the mcu (main stm32 chip) get hot when it’s plugged in?
Unless Rob says otherwise, I think it might be toast, and you’re gonna have to get a new fc.

Mcu does not get hot at all. :c
Is there any other option do you think to get it running? Or is there anyway i can save the fc? I really dont want to drop 90$, as the quad costed 180$ by itself. Also, would the chip look damaged or burnt if i took it apart and looked at it?

(14-Nov-2022, 02:29 AM)LDR_R4ndom Wrote: Mcu does not get hot at all. :c
Is there any other option do you think to get it running? Or is there anyway i can save the fc? I really dont want to drop 90$, as the quad costed 180$ by itself. Also, would the chip look damaged or burnt if i took it apart and looked at it?

Damage might not be visible, but if you can spot it visually, it’d certainly narrow down the problem.
You’ll want to take it apart regardless to make sure nothing got disconnected or otherwise broken. Look over the board carefully with a magnifying glass, look for anything burnt, any random balls of solder or other conductive material anywhere it shouldn’t be that could be shorting something out.

You could do some careful probing with a multimeter and see if you are getting 3v and 5v to the appropriate pads, and try to trace back the issue.

I don’t know if the tiny hawks have a special frame design that will keep another aio from fitting, but if not, there are certainly cheaper aio board options.

(14-Nov-2022, 02:41 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Damage might not be visible, but if you can spot it visually, it’d certainly narrow down the problem.
You’ll want to take it apart regardless to make sure nothing got disconnected or otherwise broken. Look over the board carefully with a magnifying glass, look for anything burnt, any random balls of solder or other conductive material anywhere it shouldn’t be that could be shorting something out.

You could do some careful probing with a multimeter and see if you are getting 3v and 5v to the appropriate pads, and try to trace back the issue.

I don’t know if the tiny hawks have a special frame design that will keep another aio from fitting, but if not, there are certainly cheaper aio board options.

Ok. Ill update you on it later when i have time.

Yeah, no such thing as a “mild crash”.. I’ve seen FCs get taken out by a blade of wet grass and then again had my Tinyhawk freestyle survive getting run over by a car…
Sounds like ur aio is toast.. but don’t fret, I do have some “good” news.. u can save it (kinda)..
https://intofpv.com/t-resurrecting-dead-emax-tinyhawks
Yes, it is easier to just purchase a new Emax AIO, but the cost is crazy.. u could just buy a new Mob6 /7
I love the Tinyhawk setup (ez pro pilot)and still believe it is the best intro into fpv .. unfortunately it’s the Emax “eco system”..
Feel free to pm me if u have any questions /. Issues

(14-Nov-2022, 12:39 PM)Rob Axel Wrote: Yeah, no such thing as a “mild crash”.. I’ve seen FCs get taken out by a blade of wet grass and then again had my Tinyhawk freestyle survive getting run over by a car…
Sounds like ur aio is toast.. but don’t fret, I do have some “good” news.. u can save it (kinda)..
https://intofpv.com/t-resurrecting-dead-emax-tinyhawks
Yes, it is easier to just purchase a new Emax AIO, but the cost is crazy.. u could just buy a new Mob6 /7
I love the Tinyhawk setup (ez pro pilot)and still believe it is the best intro into fpv .. unfortunately it’s the Emax “eco system”..
Feel free to pm me if u have any questions /. Issues

Ok. Thank you!