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Taranis two switch arm and PID adjustment
#1
I wanted to share some tweaks I have done to with two switch arming and PID adjustments with my taranis and Betaflight.

The way I have done it is based on Joshua Bardwells two switch arm but with some small modifications:


First, my taranis is slightly modded where I have removed the SF and SG switches and moved SE to SF position. The reason for this is that SE and SG is in the way for my fingers the way I hold my transmitter. That was the reason why I didn't like the Taranis in the first place, now I love it! I didn't remove the switches completely, I just taped them up and fastened them inside the transmitter.





TWO SWITCH ARM
I use two switches to arm my quad because I don't want to arm my quad unintentionally. This has happened to me before as I had just one switch to arm and it was too easy to flip the switch by accident if I had to do something like bending over to look at something or whatever. I'm sure you guys see the picture.

The way my switch works is that the throttle have to be at 0. Then I put my SD switch in the down position (up is down on the taranis as most of you already knew) and then I activate and hold the SH switch (the spring loaded switch) for 0.5 sec.

As you can see in the picture below, channel 5 (AUX1) is my arm channel. When the Logic switch L14 is low then ch5 is low (-100), and when L14 is high then ch5 is high (100).






In order to get this working, we will need to add some logical switches to the taranis:


L14 is the guy that controls arming/disarming and is high when L12 is high, and low when L13 is high. This is a sticky switch so it will hold it's high status because L10 is a pulse which only activates L12 for 0.1 sec.

L13 is high when the switch SD is in the up position or middle position. This is so that I'm able to disarm the quad.

L12 activates L14 as mentioned before and it is activated if L10 and L11 are high.

L11 is high when the throttle is at zero. this is done so I can't arm ifI have some throttle applied.

L10 is a 0.1 sec pulse which is activated if switch SH is held for more than 0.5sec and if switch SD is in the down position.


Here is a video where I demonstrate how it works:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58pVfw-4...e=youtu.be
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#2
PID adjustments with switches

This is also based on Joshua Bardwells in-flight adjustment video but with a small twist. the difference is that when Joshua Bardwell has his adjustment switch high/low, the PID values increases/decreases continuously, while I have done it so I just increase/decrease the value by one for each time I flicker the switch:




This is how I adjust my Cleanflight/betaflight PIDs from my taranis and the way the switches work:

when flipping SE in the high position (up position), the PID tuning mode is activated and the left potmeter (LS) sets the Roll, Pitch or Yaw adjustment, while the right potmeter (RS) sets the P, I or D.

LS high/RS high adjust Roll P
LS high/RS mid adjust Roll I
LS high/RS low adjust Roll D

LS mid/RS high adjust Pitch P
LS mid/RS mid adjust Pitch I
LS mid/RS low adjust Pitch D

LS low/RS high adjust Yaw P
LS low/RS mid adjust Yaw I

SB up will increase the PID value 1 up and SB down will decrease the value by 1. in order to increase the value by, lets say 5, the switch have to be flickered 5 times. The quad will beep two times for each increment upwards and one time for each downwards.











Ch8 (Aux4 in betaflight) is a mix between the SE switch, RS pot and LS pot. Since SE is a 3-way switch, I decided to let it be low in the down and mid position. When SE is in the up position, the RS and LS is active and will adjust the full range of the channel (again, the up position in real life is down on the taranis, confusing right?). 30 and 70 is something I have tuned to match the adjustments in betaflight.

Ch9 is operated by two logical switches L20 and L21 which tells the channel to be either high or low. L20 is an edge/pulse function when SB is is in the up position and L21 when SB is in the down position. If you want the PIDs to increase/decrease automatically without having to put the switch SB back in the middle position for each time, skip this part.







In the adjustment tab in Betaflight/cleanflight, you can set up so that if Aux4 is in a sertain range, it will adjust the sertain PID value up/down when Aux 5 is high/low.
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#3
I did a small change to the way my two arm switch works. The old method didn't allow quick re-arm if you realised you disarmed to quickly and wanted to re-arm mid air, so I added a 3 second delay where I could just flip the disarm switch (in my case SD) back into armed position. If the SD switch have been in the disarmed position for more than 3 seconds, I have to redo the two-switch-arm procedure in order to arm again. 

I have just tested/simulated the functions on my Taranis and not with the quad so be careful and test it properly before using it.


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#4
Such a great idea Smile
will try that on my setup this week!
Don't be a LOS'er, be an FPV'er :) -- Blog - Facebook - Instagram - Twitter - Google Plus
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#5
Nice work Oyvinia! I love the idea of a 2 switch arming procedure and will have to get this done soon.
Thanks for sharing Thumbs Up
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  • oyvinla
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#6
(15-Jun-2017, 11:05 PM)oyvinla Wrote: I did a small change to the way my two arm switch works. The old method didn't allow quick re-arm if you realised you disarmed to quickly and wanted to re-arm mid air, so I added a 3 second delay where I could just flip the disarm switch (in my case SD) back into armed position. If the SD switch have been in the disarmed position for more than 3 seconds, I have to redo the two-switch-arm procedure in order to arm again. 

I have just tested/simulated the functions on my Taranis and not with the quad so be careful and test it properly before using it.



Great article. I sliced the heck out of my palm when setting my quad at the race line. The transmitter was hanging from a neck lanyard and whenI bent over my gut hit the arm switch and the props made mince meat of my palm. So your article is great!!!

The delay to rearm doesn't work for me, in that it doesn't allow for arm AFTER I disarm the quad. It seems to delay the disarm for 3 seconds. Thought I would pass this on. Thanks for your work!!
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#7
(01-Jul-2017, 07:50 PM)peru Wrote: Great article. I sliced the heck out of my palm when setting my quad at the race line. The transmitter was hanging from a neck lanyard and whenI bent over my gut hit the arm switch and the props made mince meat of my palm. So your article is great!!!

The delay to rearm doesn't work for me, in that it doesn't allow for arm AFTER I disarm the quad. It seems to delay the disarm for 3 seconds. Thought I would pass this on. Thanks for your work!!

Thanks, I have a friend as well who was too lazy to do this and he also unintentionally armed the quad while leaning down to pick it up. I think he then understand why I stressed him so much about it  Cool

Thanks for the heads up, the rearm works for me, but it looks like I have done a small modification after I posted this. I'll review it when I get back home in a couple of days
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#8
On mine I have 3 switches total as part of arming and disarming. I had beat a guy's hand up when he was helping me recover my quad and I felt really bad so I set up 2 more switches to override my arm switch. Specifically S1 and SC (the long switches on the front in the middle right next to the pots). They way they work is if either one of them is anything but full-on then the arm switch is overridden as being off. My SF switch is my main arm/disarm switch.

The side benefit from this is because I have 3 switches set to full on when flying, when I need to disarm I can flick any of the 3 depending on which hand feels like it could reach first. I didn't expect this benefit but recently realized I've been using it to disarm quicker. 

So here are some scenarios to explain what happens:
SF: Off, S1: Off, SC: Off = Disarmed
SF: On, S1: Off, SC: Off = Disarmed
SF: On, S1: Half, SC: Half = Disarmed
SF: On, S1: Off, SC: On = Disarmed
SF: On, S1: On, SC: On = Armed

(If anyone wants me to explain this setup let me know. It's not as elegant as Ovinla's but it works for me)
carl.vegas
Current Quads: Operational: Diatone GT2 200 In need of repair: Bumble Bee, tehStein,  Slightly modified Vortex 250 
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