Recently built a 2” quad using 1103 10,000kv motors and a 25a esc. Decided to upgrade to diatone toka 1206 3600kv motors. I soldered on 1 motor, and it beeped like normal. Went to test spin it, but nothing happend. Though bi-directional esc was the problem (esc doesn’t support 2 way) and the moment i turned it off, sparks flew from motor and fc and esc turned off. Solder job seems just fine. 25a esc, and f405 fc.

Essential Information Missing.

What Supply voltage? Same for both motors?

Check the rated supply voltage for both motors.,

Puzzled as to why you replaced 10000kV with 3600kV, that's a hell of a difference!?

(14-Nov-2022, 06:57 AM)BadRaven Wrote: Essential Information Missing.

What Supply voltage? Same for both motors?

Check the rated supply voltage for both motors.,

Puzzled as to why you replaced 10000kV with 3600kV, that's a hell of a difference!?

Went from 2-3s to 3-4s.

The sparks bit sounds like a short or too much power. Guessing you fragged the esc. If not, try removing that motor and using a different one. if it still sparks, then maybe the esc has an issue.

Sparks = short. Simple. Now its time to inspect the boards to see what damaged has been done.

A magnifying glass and a multimeter in continuity mode are your best friend. Looks for solder balls and shorts between neighbouring soldered connections. Also check the pins on the wiring harness between the FC and ESC. If you have the FC/ESC stacked with little gap then ensure the gummies/grommets are stiff enough that the two boards do not contact each other. Avoid any exposed wires near stand-offs or mounting screws.

Sparks from the motors.. I would check the motor windings

So after testing somehow the fc is fried? At least the motor and esc are okay. Kinda confusing…

(14-Nov-2022, 11:45 PM)kafie1980 Wrote: Sparks = short. Simple. Now its time to inspect the boards to see what damaged has been done.

A magnifying glass and a multimeter in continuity mode are your best friend. Looks for solder balls and shorts between neighbouring soldered connections. Also check the pins on the wiring harness between the FC and ESC. If you have the FC/ESC stacked with little gap then ensure the gummies/grommets are stiff enough that the two boards do not contact each other. Avoid any exposed wires near stand-offs or mounting screws.

There was a disconnected wire on the fc for the rx, but it happened afterwards.

Yeah the fc shows no sign of life but the esc and motors are working just fine luckily. Only 20$ repair compared to 50$ esc and 50$ motor sets.

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Thank you!

Also, im assuming the positive wire that powers fc from esc shorted out the fc as it is disconnected. Darn these wires… thank yall for the help!

I’d strongly suggest investing in a short saver and a good multimeter.

I’d also suggest taking a deep breath and looking over everything real close with a magnifying glass prior to applying power.

These are things I learned after accidentally making a board or two release magic smoke.

A brushless motor shouldn’t ever spark. If it does, you’ve got a screw touching a winding, or, something prior to the motor failed and pumped enough power through the motor that it burned through the coating on the magnet wire in the motor and caused it to short out, or you were pushing too much power to that motor, causing it to burn through its coating and short out or straight destroy the copper winding.

Either way, you’ve now got some exposed and uncoated wire in that motor if it’s still running.

It’s not like a brushed motor where there is place that if things are out of tolerance, electricity might arc.

So, if that motor sparked- I’d replace that motor for sure, or at least keep an eye on it and know that it could kill an esc- and I’d potentially replace the esc that was powering it.

I’d reassess the voltage I’m pushing through that motor, as well as the prop size.

You could take the bell off of the motor and if you can see the damage, coat it with something to keep it from arcing again- but you still need to determine the initial cause of the failure. If you just run it as is, imho you’re very like to blow an esc or more.

(15-Nov-2022, 07:43 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: I’d strongly suggest investing in a short saver and a good multimeter.

I’d also suggest taking a deep breath and looking over everything real close with a magnifying glass prior to applying power.

These are things I learned after accidentally making a board or two release magic smoke.

A brushless motor shouldn’t ever spark. If it does, you’ve got a screw touching a winding, or, something prior to the motor failed and pumped enough power through the motor that it burned through the coating on the magnet wire in the motor and caused it to short out, or you were pushing too much power to that motor, causing it to burn through its coating and short out or straight destroy the copper winding.

Either way, you’ve now got some exposed and uncoated wire in that motor if it’s still running.

It’s not like a brushed motor where there is place that if things are out of tolerance, electricity might arc.

So, if that motor sparked- I’d replace that motor for sure, or at least keep an eye on it and know that it could kill an esc- and I’d potentially replace the esc that was powering it.

I’d reassess the voltage I’m pushing through that motor, as well as the prop size.

You could take the bell off of the motor and if you can see the damage, coat it with something to keep it from arcing again- but you still need to determine the initial cause of the failure. If you just run it as is, imho you’re very like to blow an esc or more.

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