(11-Jul-2022, 06:08 PM)BigBeard Wrote: My question is whether or not you plan to run INAV or beta. It seems the position hold functions in INAV would be incredibly useful in this case

Hi BigBeard,

I plan to run Betaflight; that is what was installed at the factory; Betaflight 4.2.0.
At this point, I have not seen any advantage to iNav. What can it do for me ??

I can't seem to get my head around how position hold would be of any value. 
If you are "holding" a position, then how can you maneuver the quad and thereby
the attachment device to the location of the downed quad?? I will be manually
maneuvering the to quad to position the device which is simply "dangling" from
the quad by a "fixed" line of some type which is yet to be determined. 

Can you explain how position hold will help me?? How do you hold a position
yet still maneuver the craft. It seems contradictory. 

My guess is that Position hold, would be activated when you are right over the top of that which you need to rescue, but you don't have a winch, so it's pointless. if you did have a winch, you could line up over the target, use Position Hold (which i'm guessing uses GPS to hold the position), then work the winch and anything else needed to grab the other quad and retrieve it. Then release position hold and continue flying.

It might not mean that. It also isn't relevant since you don't have a winch.

Yeah, that is the way that I was looking at it. This thing is really just a quad with a
line attached and a targeting camera to see what you are doing.

Hi everyone,

You know I was having a bit of an RX-Loss on my last flight. Since, this XM+ receiver has worked
flawlessly in the past, I was thinking that maybe the batteries in the transmitter are low.

Now, Lemony has suggested something that I hadn't thought about; that the Bluetooth module
might be interfering with the receiver since they are both on the same frequency; 2.4 Ghz. 
I believe that he may have hit upon something here. I am presuming that the Bluetooth antenna 
is integrated into the FC board since there is no visible means to attach one. Even though I have 
removed it from the MODES tab in Betaflight, I have no idea if the actual device is still working 
or not. If it is, then I don't know how to disable it and prevent it from transmitting. I will need
to research this a bit.

Very Interesting. I hope that I can get this sorted because I really want to use that 30x30
FC board in this quad. 

I hate to use a 900 Mhz R9MM receiver since this is NOT a long range build. 

Let's see what options that I have before I go messing around with stuff.

Hmmm.... 

You know what, use what works. If you have something, that you know is rock solid and you have experience with it, even if it's more LR gear, then use it. Better the devil you know (and all that). it's one less thing to worry about, on the build.

Hi iFly

For your reference, Position Hold on iNav locks the drone at the current altitude and lateral position when activated. However, you can still subsequently use the sticks to move on from this point, it just stops dead at the new location when you let go of the sticks instead of drifting away. In fact, you could do an entire flight in position hold mode. Likewise the position hold altitude can be varied with the throttle stick, with the rate of change proportional to stick deflection up or down from nominal. Its pretty much how an off the shelf DJI drone behaves..self leveling mode that doesn't drift away with the breeze when you let go of the sticks.

(12-Jul-2022, 10:14 AM)roteron Wrote: Hi iFly

For your reference, Position Hold on iNav locks the drone at the current altitude and lateral position when activated. However, you can still subsequently use the sticks to move on from this point, it just stops dead at the new location when you let go of the sticks instead of drifting away. In fact, you could do an entire flight in position hold mode. Likewise the position hold altitude can be varied with the throttle stick, with the rate of change proportional to stick deflection up or down from nominal. Its pretty much how an off the shelf DJI drone behaves..self leveling mode that doesn't drift away with the breeze when you let go of the sticks.

Hi Roteron,

Thank YOU very much for that explanation. I didn't know it worked that way and no one
had ever explained it as such. Now, that does make a difference.  That sounds like something
that I would be interested in. I need to look into iNav and see where I can go. 


Again, THANK YOU Very Much.

iFly

You're welcome iFly!

2022-07-14

Well, she has some modifications and is back together again.

1) An EMF/RF shielding plate has been added between the FC and VTX.
2) A new top plate was cut and EMF/RF sheilding added to the bottom.
3) Different battery pads were used for the new top plate.
4) XM+ receiver and antennas were all relocated.
5) The piloting camera TPU mount was replaced by TadPole Cam braces.
6) Provision for additional top battery hold down plate. 

The current dry weight is 400.0 grams. 

Ifly,

FYI, The matek F722 se had dual switchable camera inputs. I never have used dual cams on mine so not sure how it works. It is discontinued but they have this one out now::


Though i pretty sure you dont want to spend another 90 $ on a FC.

Hi Rick,

On the one hand, it is a bit of money for an FC and I would also need an ESC.
On the other hand, thank you. I actually like a dual cam setup and will consider
all the options for future dual cam builds. 

Having the dual camera feature right on the FC might be quite nice.
The Lumenier LUX F7 Ultimate also has the same dual camera feature.

Except for the ViFly Cam Switcher, I already had all of the AIO FCs that I
have installed in this build. Unfortunately, two of the boards were identical
and had similar failure issues. I am chalking this one up to a batch of bad 
product from JHEMCU. 

What I like about the ViFly Cam Switcher is that you can set it up as a
harness with connectors and simply insert it between the camera and the
CAM input on the FC on ANY analog setup...for just $ 7.99 USD. 

You could add a second camera to a GEPRC Phantom and insert the ViFly
harness between the cameras and the FC. Done. Plus, NO configuration except
that you must have a switch set up on the transmitter on Channel 7 and 
NOTHING set up on AUX3 in Betaflight...just leave it clear. This is so simple
and will work with virtually ANY analog system. Also, easy to pull out. Just 
unplug it and plug the main camera back up to the FC. This is a very flexible
arrangement. I have been impressed. So much so, that I may well add a 
second camera to some of my other (existing) builds. 

Thanks.

By the Way, do you have a link to your RoninUAV Shinobi build ??

Found your retrieval magnet. 400 lbs pull.
Little over two pounds. I mean sure, it’s not light, and *total* overkill… but I think the last eCalc numbers I ran for you said this bird could handle up to 2455g of additional payload.

King Kong Magnetics Magnet Fishing Kits - $18.99 -

https://tools.woot.com/offers/king-kong-...source=app

Hi Lemony,

Wow, That is some magnet. If the magnets that I have already bought don't work,
then I might have to get one of these bad boys and try.

I want to get a couple of flights in and make sure this thing does ok in the air,
then I want to do some "weight" testing...see how much she will lift.

Thanks

I have purchased from this company many times. They have the neodymium rare earth magnets in all sizes and shapes. A tall cylindrical magnet is what I would try. They list the pull force in the upper right corner. You can also filter them by pull force...

https://www.kjmagnetics.com/

https://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=1&scri=67

The N52's are stronger than the N42's for the same size but also more pricey.

Hi Brett,

Thanks for that source.  I will keep it in mind.  I purchased a set of magnets some
time ago, but I don't know if they will be sufficient. If I need more, then I will
definitely be checking out that site.