Posts: 266 Threads: 99 Likes Received: 5 in 5 posts Likes Given: 13 Joined: Sep 2020 Reputation: 0 Hi guys, so yerterday Sainsmart TPU arrived and I did a first test on my Ender 5 with recommended Ender 3 V2 95A TPU CURA settings just like SnowLeopard recommended me ( https://docs.sainsmart.com/article/nen99...u-profiles). Only thing I changed was Infill from 20 to 100. Cura printing settings: https://imgur.com/a/8YA9D0o Print is ok, but I think I'm doing something wrong, maybe you can help me out. 1) TPU hairs, how can I get rid of them? Is there any way to print without them? Pic: https://imgur.com/a/raIF5zd 2) I find it too flexible. Maybe it's because I come from printing PLA but it feels weird to mee... check this video and tell me if this is normal/good, please. Video: (I know I should print an actual case on TPU for my GoPro, but this was just a first print try hehe) • Posts: 21,169 Threads: 581 Likes Received: 8,918 in 6,598 posts Likes Given: 1,425 Joined: Jun 2018 Reputation: 786 You nearly always get some stringing when printing TPU on an FDM printer that you need to clean up afterwards (cut away or melt back with a hot air gun or naked flame) but yours does look particularly bad. If retraction isn't enabled then try enabling it, then play around with different retraction settings (retraction distance and speed) which will cause the filament to be temporarily pulled back into the nozzle during extruder axis moves where no printing is being done and when the extruder needs to cross a void in the print. You can also try decreasing the print temperature a little to mitigate some of the oozing. You can also try slowing down the print speed. It's all about experimentation along with trial and error until you get an acceptable level of stringing that you are happy to accept for post-print clean-up. Unfortunately 3D printing can end up being another hobby that becomes just as time consuming as FPV. As for the mount being overly flexible, I personally wouldn't use that type of mount printed in TPU. You really need a one-piece mount IMO that has the camera as close to the mounting foot as possible without a hinge mechanism so it is far more solid and "connected" to the quad. Just search for some other GoPro mounts on Thingiverse and you will see what I mean. Posts: 266 Threads: 99 Likes Received: 5 in 5 posts Likes Given: 13 Joined: Sep 2020 Reputation: 0 (22-Dec-2020, 03:18 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: You nearly always get some stringing when printing TPU on an FDM printer that you need to clean up afterwards (cut away or melt back with a hot air gun or naked flame) but yours does look particularly bad. If retraction isn't enabled then try enabling it, then play around with different retraction settings (retraction distance and speed) which will cause the filament to be temporarily pulled back into the nozzle during extruder axis moves where no printing is being done and when the extruder needs to cross a void in the print. You can also try decreasing the print temperature a little to mitigate some of the oozing. You can also try slowing down the print speed. It's all about experimentation along with trial and error until you get an acceptable level of stringing that you are happy to accept for post-print clean-up. Unfortunately 3D printing can end up being another hobby that becomes just as time consuming as FPV. As for the mount being overly flexible, I personally wouldn't use that type of mount printed in TPU. You really need a one-piece mount IMO that has the camera as close to the mounting foot as possible without a hinge mechanism so it is far more solid and "connected" to the quad. Just search for some other GoPro mounts on Thingiverse and you will see what I mean. Ok then, I'll experiment with retraction and see If I can get rid of the stringing. I'm using this type of mount because I'm afraid to damage my GoPro8 and with it I can protect , is there a better material for this kind of pieces? But yeah you are right I know what king of mount you are talking about I found this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4311253 thoughts? • Posts: 21,169 Threads: 581 Likes Received: 8,918 in 6,598 posts Likes Given: 1,425 Joined: Jun 2018 Reputation: 786 22-Dec-2020, 04:25 PM (This post was last modified: 22-Dec-2020, 06:46 PM by SnowLeopardFPV. Edit Reason: Typo corrections. ) Yes, that is the type of mount I'm talking about. There are loads of variations available in the same style. You just need to decide which one you prefer the most. Unfortunately no case/mount is going to protect the GoPro in a crash. If you stick a $300 GoPro on a quad you either need to be a really good pilot or just accept that it's going to get damaged at some point. Otherwise put a less expensive camera on the quad. I have a $100 RunCam 5 on mine for this very reason because if it gets damaged then I won't get too upset. The guys in the US are fortunate enough to have Best Buy insurance cover in that if they damage a GoPro they just take it back to Best Buy and get given a brand new one in return. Sadly nowhere else in the world seems to offer that same level of insurance cover. • Posts: 266 Threads: 99 Likes Received: 5 in 5 posts Likes Given: 13 Joined: Sep 2020 Reputation: 0 (22-Dec-2020, 04:25 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Yes, that is the type of mount I'm talking about. There are loads of variations available in the same style. You just need to decide which one you prefer the most. Unfortunately no case/mount is going to protect the GoPro in a crash. If you stick a $300 GoPro on a quad you either need to be a really good pilot or just accept that it's going to get damaged at some point. Otherwise put a less expensive camera on the quad. I have a $100 RunCam 5 on mine for this very reason because if it gets damaged then I won't get too upset. The guys in the US are fortunate enough to have Best Buy insurance cover in that if they damage a GoPro they just take it back to Best Buy and get given a brand new one in return. Sadly nowhere else in the world seems to offer that same level of insurance cover. Interesting, so I'm gonna ty to print this one... I guess I'll need to use supports to print it, firs time using them on CURA, any recomendation? • Posts: 21,169 Threads: 581 Likes Received: 8,918 in 6,598 posts Likes Given: 1,425 Joined: Jun 2018 Reputation: 786 You will definitely need to use supports. That's going to be quite a challenging item to print. I would probably print it with one of it's sides face down to minimise the amount of supports that will be needed which will be wasted TPU and a longer print time. I'm not familiar with Cura because I use PrusaSlicer, but use the option that puts supports everywhere (i.e. both on the build plate and within voids of the print itself). Alternatively put in your own manual support enforcers where you think them necessary. • Posts: 21,169 Threads: 581 Likes Received: 8,918 in 6,598 posts Likes Given: 1,425 Joined: Jun 2018 Reputation: 786 If you don't need the ability to fit ND filters then I would print the mount linked to below instead because it's a much simpler design and will cause you less headaches. As before, print on it's side with supports everywhere. I normally print TPU items with a 0.2mm layer height but I would be tempted to print this with a 0.3mm layer height which will significantly reduce the print time. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4343659 • Posts: 266 Threads: 99 Likes Received: 5 in 5 posts Likes Given: 13 Joined: Sep 2020 Reputation: 0 (23-Dec-2020, 12:33 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: If you don't need the ability to fit ND filters then I would print the mount linked to below instead because it's a much simpler design and will cause you less headaches. As before, print on it's side with supports everywhere. I normally print TPU items with a 0.2mm layer height but I would be tempted to print this with a 0.3mm layer height which will significantly reduce the print time. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4343659 Wow, I've been trying things and the lower estimated time printing at 0.3 layer heigh is 12h!! Printing 0.15 its 1day and a half Aaaand I need the ND filter one cause im into cinematic fpv hehe well wish me luck haha • Posts: 21,169 Threads: 581 Likes Received: 8,918 in 6,598 posts Likes Given: 1,425 Joined: Jun 2018 Reputation: 786 Unfortunately due to the slow printing speed required for TPU, some of the prints can take a long time. You just have to pray that nothing goes wrong part way through the print. I just loaded up the ND filter mount into PrusaSlicer and with a print layer height of 0.3mm it's giving a print time of 8 hours 2 minutes using the 95A TPU profile from the SainSmart website. I can only guess that a Prusa i3 MK3S can handle printing TPU faster than the Ender 5 can. 8 hours is still a long time though. • Posts: 13 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Aug 2020 Reputation: 2 I'm a big fan of the tree supports in cura. They use less material and print faster. If you find 95A too flexible for your application you could use 98A TPU. • Posts: 13 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Aug 2020 Reputation: 2 I dont know if this works for 95A TPU but it does for 98A. Try a .6 nozzle .3 layer height .9 line width. 110% flow rate. I'd show you my last print with these settings but It keeps disappearing when I press add attachment. Maybe I'm too noob for pictures? • Posts: 12,099 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 • Posts: 13 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Aug 2020 Reputation: 2 • Posts: 12,099 Threads: 125 Likes Received: 3,739 in 2,836 posts Likes Given: 99 Joined: Feb 2017 Reputation: 388 • Posts: 266 Threads: 99 Likes Received: 5 in 5 posts Likes Given: 13 Joined: Sep 2020 Reputation: 0 • |