Posts: 19 Threads: 6 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Nov 2020 Reputation: 0 I just purchased a Pavo20 by BetaFPV and have been trying to setup a separate switch so that I can turn on and off the light strip. The only way I have been able to make it work is with the User1 setting in Betaflight BUT it always comes on when I arm the quad....I want to be able to turn it off after arming if needed. I have search all over Youtube and also left a message for Joshua Bardwell with no reply.....so is this not possible?
Thanks for any help!
TxFlyer ![[-]](https://intofpv.com/images/collapse.png) • Posts: 926 Threads: 68 Likes Received: 339 in 253 posts Likes Given: 153 Joined: Dec 2021 Reputation: 19 The SpeedyBee Bee35 Meteor LED strip comes with a control board that can be UART connected, and a range of pre-programmed sequences/patterns. Is that what you seek? • Posts: 1,729 Threads: 60 Likes Received: 1,003 in 728 posts Likes Given: 96 Joined: Jan 2023 Reputation: 52 10-Feb-2024, 10:56 PM (This post was last modified: 10-Feb-2024, 10:58 PM by mstc.) In your USER1 mode, if you have a LINK setup then you need to remove that and only add a RANGE. You should select an AUX channel different from that of your arm switch and set your range accordingly. If you are still not able to turn it off independently, double check your PINIO_BOX setting. Go to CLI and type SET PINIO_BOX, the first number should be 40 for USER1. https://betaflight.com/docs/wiki/guides/...d-PinioBox • Posts: 180 Threads: 18 Likes Received: 48 in 45 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Apr 2023 Reputation: 3 11-Feb-2024, 06:37 AM (This post was last modified: 11-Feb-2024, 06:06 PM by segler999.) I agree. I have a Cinebot30 with a LED strip. In BF there is a USER1 mode with its own switch and its own AUX channel. Works fine and is independent of the ARM channel. Working from memory here, but I believe mine is USER1 on Aux4, which is an on-off switch on my transmitter.
If you do a search for setting up the LED strip for the Cinebot30, I'll bet it will work for your system, too.
• Posts: 19 Threads: 6 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Nov 2020 Reputation: 0 Thanks guys, I will give this a try and let you know....I appreciate everyone's reply! • Posts: 5 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Apr 2024 Reputation: 0 26-Apr-2024, 06:32 AM (This post was last modified: 26-Apr-2024, 06:32 AM by Paglia.) (11-Feb-2024, 09:02 AM)TxFlyer Wrote: Thanks guys, I will give this a try and let you know....I appreciate everyone's reply! Hello to all, I'm new and I have this problem too, have you solved? Mine stay always on! The user1 tab works correctly, the PINIO 1 assignment is right...I think my led strip have a faulty little PCB transistors, do you know the diagram how it works? Thanks and sorry for my English! • Posts: 1,729 Threads: 60 Likes Received: 1,003 in 728 posts Likes Given: 96 Joined: Jan 2023 Reputation: 52 That board should just be a transistor or mosfet switch. The right pin (yellow wire) is connected to the FC pad setup for PINIO, that is what turns the power on/off to the LEDs. If you have a multimeter you can double-check to make sure the voltage is being toggled on that pin when you move your radio switch. • Posts: 5 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Apr 2024 Reputation: 0 (26-Apr-2024, 02:27 PM)mstc Wrote: That board should just be a transistor or mosfet switch. The right pin (yellow wire) is connected to the FC pad setup for PINIO, that is what turns the power on/off to the LEDs. If you have a multimeter you can double-check to make sure the voltage is being toggled on that pin when you move your radio switch. Problem found, the signal cable (yellow) with GND has been reversed!!! Thanks for support! • Posts: 5 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Apr 2024 Reputation: 0 (26-Apr-2024, 02:27 PM)mstc Wrote: That board should just be a transistor or mosfet switch. The right pin (yellow wire) is connected to the FC pad setup for PINIO, that is what turns the power on/off to the LEDs. If you have a multimeter you can double-check to make sure the voltage is being toggled on that pin when you move your radio switch. I was wrong again I think...the LEDs aren't very bright, but I think I'm powering them from the yellow cable in this way, I think the problem is on the transistor side because the FC switches well from low/high state by reading the voltage of the PIN. But I have an even bigger problem, now I only get 0.8v from the O3 power supply and it doesn't work anymore... • Posts: 1,729 Threads: 60 Likes Received: 1,003 in 728 posts Likes Given: 96 Joined: Jan 2023 Reputation: 52 If you used the PINIO pin to supply the LED strip, then most likely it drew more current than the pin could supply and maybe you damaged that pin on the FC. The PINIO should only be used to turn on/off the switch which to the 5v supply. However it should not affect your O3. The Betafpv AIO has a 9v BEC, are you referring to the power supplied out from the AIOs VTX plug? If that is the case, then maybe somehow the 9v BEC has been damaged. If you have tiny probes, you can check it on the AIO. The top pad is from the 9v BEC, the middle pad goes to the pin. If your 9v BEC has failed, you could remove the bridging resistor and solder a wire from the middle pad directly to vbat. That would provide direct lipo voltage to the VTX plug. ![[Image: fSghYlzl.png]](https://i.imgur.com/fSghYlzl.png) • Posts: 5 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Apr 2024 Reputation: 0 (26-Apr-2024, 08:32 PM)mstc Wrote: If you used the PINIO pin to supply the LED strip, then most likely it drew more current than the pin could supply and maybe you damaged that pin on the FC. The PINIO should only be used to turn on/off the switch which to the 5v supply. However it should not affect your O3.
The Betafpv AIO has a 9v BEC, are you referring to the power supplied out from the AIOs VTX plug? If that is the case, then maybe somehow the 9v BEC has been damaged. If you have tiny probes, you can check it on the AIO. The top pad is from the 9v BEC, the middle pad goes to the pin. If your 9v BEC has failed, you could remove the bridging resistor and solder a wire from the middle pad directly to vbat. That would provide direct lipo voltage to the VTX plug.
Yes i thing i have damaged the 9v BEC  If I make a bridge like you said are you sure I won't damage other components of the FC? I also thought about connecting the positive of the O3 directly to the lipo, but using the middle pad works better... • Posts: 1,729 Threads: 60 Likes Received: 1,003 in 728 posts Likes Given: 96 Joined: Jan 2023 Reputation: 52 It will be at your own risk and depend on your soldering skills so you will have to decide. If you feel more comfortable cutting the O3 wire and soldering it to vbat, that is another option.
However it should work, as you can see Betafpv uses that bridging point to send either 9v or 5v to the VTX plug. You can test the continuity and decide for yourself. That middle pad should lead only to the VTX plug, but as they don't provide a detailed schematic, there are no guarantees. • Posts: 5 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Apr 2024 Reputation: 0 (26-Apr-2024, 09:57 PM)mstc Wrote: It will be at your own risk and depend on your soldering skills so you will have to decide. If you feel more comfortable cutting the O3 wire and soldering it to vbat, that is another option.
However it should work, as you can see Betafpv uses that bridging point to send either 9v or 5v to the VTX plug. You can test the continuity and decide for yourself. That middle pad should lead only to the VTX plug, but as they don't provide a detailed schematic, there are no guarantees. I did as you told me, soldered directly onto the pad without touching the O3 cable. Everything seems to work very well, I hope the O3 doesn't suffer from being directly connected to the battery... Thank you very much for the support you've given me!! I'm in debt!!! • |
