Hello FPV enthusiast and friends this thread will be dedicated to my second build. I hope that my skills are grown since last build thread and last build. Here are components which i consider to buy and some of them I already own.

FC:            Holybro Kakute F7 V1.5 (own)
Frame:      iFlight XL5 V4 (227mm) (own)
Motors:     iFlight XING X2207  2450KV (red) (own)
ESC:         Holybro Tekko32 F3 Metal 4-in-1 65A (own)
VTX:         RUSH TANK (if somebody know where to buy second edition of this VTX let me know because i saw that exist)
Camera:    I have RunCam micro eagle on my first build but I'm open to suggestions for a different camera

TX:           TBS CrossFire Nano RX (own)
Antenna:   Foxeer Lollipop (own)
Propellers: HQprop 5.1x4.1x3 (own)


So here it is my list for the second quad if someone has some suggestions for VTX or camera feel free to express your opinion. 
Thanks to SnowLeopardFPV for ESC suggestion :

p.s. I need to share a photo of the frame and motors because they look awesome  so mush prettier than my old build   

For a camera, I would probably take a look at the RunCam Phoenix 2. If you want to make use digital UART for camera control (the camera's OSD menu) rather than analogue camera control then you will need to pay $3 more and get the JB edition. The non-JB edition only has analogue camera control.

I'm sure others will chime in with other suggestions.

I'm so glad you didn't decide to buy an iFlight stack to go with that frame

Niiicceee ... dude that will be a beastly 5 inch with 65A metal ESCs!!


[edit] ... wait, 4S / 5 inch? Do you think the 65A might be a bit too much? I was already thinking that was a whole heck of a lot of headroom on 6S / 5 inch.

yes, it is for 4s I asked once for overkill ESC and got the answer that there is no such thing as overkill ESC so I ordered best ESC in class :')

I asked on my local community page for suggestions about camera and VTX and the most common answer was:

Foxeer predator v4 and TBS unify pro32

Does anybody have some experience whit those products? and does anybody know what is the difference between predator v4 full-size and micro-size camera? is the difference just in the size and weight and can I mount both of them in my frame?

yes ,I have also have this frame for a while
very beautiful and good
printed some feet for it

wr Henk

(15-Jul-2020, 12:50 PM)Smokie Wrote: yes ,I have also have this frame for a while
very beautiful and good

Which camera do you have?

(15-Jul-2020, 10:55 AM)ssaakkaa Wrote: and does anybody know what is the difference between predator v4 full-size and micro-size camera? is the difference just in the size and weight and can I mount both of them in my frame?

I believe they are both identical. Unless you are looking to save every last gram of weight, I would personally just go for the full size camera if it will fit your frame. It will look better in the frame aesthetically because it will fill the whole (or most of) the width of the body, and it will be a bit more durable and better protected as well because the circuit board is inside the camera housing rather than sticking out the back exposed.

I started to build and prepare quad for soldering so I have a few questions because I never installed a 4in1 ESC. first question how to wire motors to ESC?



something like this on picture 1 or like this:



also, I have a question about mounting ESC to the stack? do I need to use soft mounting? or just stack it on plastic holders like this?



I guess if I want to use soft mounting I need to use long screws which I got in the box with the frame and separate ESC from FC with nylon nut?

I would just route the motor wires around the stack stand-off and the onto the pads, not around the top plate stand-offs. So route them between the top plate stand-off and the stack stand-ff if that makes sense. The wires will then look neater that way because they will run along the full length of the arm to the stack.

You don't need to use the rubber grommets to soft mount the ESC. They just help to add a bit of vibration dampening in the even of a crash. They are more important if you use metal stack screws like I am. The only minor issue you have without using the grommets is that the holes in the ESC board are larger than M3 so the ESC is now rattling around on the stand-offs until you tighten another one down on top of it. Not a big deal but that would irritate some people (like me ).

ok routing the wires around stack stand-off make sense I'll do it like that.

I can use metal stack screws also, in that case I need to separate ESC from FC with nylon nuts? and is there any benefits with metal stack screws? Once when I crashed my previous build, nylon standoffs broke so i thought that is better to break nylon standoff than FC or ESC in this case...

It's all pros and cons with metal screws vs nylon stand-offs. If you ask different people you will get a different answer. On my Martian II frame I'm using nylon standoffs (and like you, some of those also broke after a failsafe crash). On my Acrobrat frame I'm using metal screws. On my new 5" frame I'm going to be using metal screws. The anti-vibration grommets help to cushion any impact in a crash so they help to mitigate the fact that you are using metal stand-off screws.

If you use metal screws then I suggest putting the screw through the bottom of the frame and then put a nylon nut on the screw to keep it securely retained in place. Do that for all 4 screws. Then put the rubber grommets in the ESC holes with the long part on the bottom facing downwards. Then slide the ESC down onto the 4 screws so the grommets sit on the nylon nuts.

The Kakute F7 has a soft mounted IMU on the board so there is no need to soft mount the FC itself which means it doesn't have grommets. If you have some stand-off spacers like in the image below then put some of those on the metal screws after fitting the ESC and then put the FC on top of those. If you don't have any then just improvise with nylon nuts stacked on top of each other to create an appropriate spacing height / separation.

nice thank you for answer

No problem

One thing to be careful of that I forgot to mention. The Kakute F7 FC has metal rings around the mounting holes. Use a multimeter to check that those aren't connected to anything on the board, and if they are then that they're only connected to the ground plane on the FC and not something else. If they are connected to something other than the ground plane then you are going to need to insulate the holes from the metal screws in some way. Hopefully they are just reinforcement rings and nothing more. Unfortunately I don't have one of the same FC's so I can't check for you.

tanks for pointing that out i will let you know when I check