I have a iFlight TurboBee 120RS V1 4S version that burned two motors, though the stack is working and the frame is in good condition so thinking about using the frame and 16X16 stack with other motors, 2-3S LiPo and biblade props.
The stock motors is 1104 4200kV and stock props Avan Rush three blade.

The question is if should go with 1103, 1104 or possibly 1204 and how high kV?
I´m leaning towards 110X since I want a lightweight and scilent TP to fly at a local field.
How high kV would be recomended for 2 or 2-3s LiPo and 65mm biblade on 1103 or 1104?

I´m not a huge fan of that particular frame and have a feeling that it won´t hold up for long, so I´m going to order a frame at the same time as I order the motors, a 25.5/26mm AIO and VTX. Have not decided if I´m going with a AIO with ELRS RX built in or maybe try the Happymodel Fyujon RX/VTX combo.

If it is the old iFlight 16x16 stack, I believe you want a motor that comes with motor plugs. Skystars has a cheap 1103-9000 kv motor, otherwise Happymodel has a good selection of 1103/1202.5/1203/1204 cheap plugged motors. They are not super durable but are pretty efficient and decent performers.
For kv, it may depend on your preference and you can set motor limits. but if you want quiet then maybe better to stay with the lower kvs. Also biblades sometimes have higher pitched sound than triblades and spin faster so may actually sound louder depending on the prop. For 2S somewhere in the vicinity of 8000-11000 and 3S maybe 5000-7000kv.

the question is performance or silence between 1104 and 1103.

if you are looking for a both worlds, the direction would be 1104/1204/1105 on some gemfan 3016x3 - on 3inch all would match better.

the only way to get the same results on a 2.5" is saving weight, but its more limited compared to 3inch.
a 2,5inch on 1102 motors could be less loud as example, but it should stay under 45g
there was the happymodel saifly which is a very lightweight and silent 2,5inch as example or the happymodel crux as example for 3inch

I have a 3" with Diatone MiniMamba stack and Diatone 1408 4000kv motors spining Gemfan Flash 3 blade props on 3-4s.
It totaly rips and is not so loud, tough I want something smaller and lighter, that´s why I thought about a 2.5" TP but maybe a really light 3" on 2s would be better?

I´ve found a few motors in the 1103/1104/1204 size with connectors, but if it hasn´t connectors it´s not a big deal since I use crimping tools for those kind of smal plugs almost daily in my work so could easily fix that in a coffe brake.

Found some 1103 7500kv and 1104 6500kv or 8000kv, maybe the 1103/7500 or 1104/8000 for 2s?

i would suggest 8000kv on 2,5inch on 3s.
if you like to go for 2s, choose at leats 8000kv up to 11000kv

a 1408 will be very loud in comparison, 1408 are power motors, they would need to spin 4inch or 5inch to be not loud

For cruising around a light 2S 3" is great and get you more flight time too, but if you are doing more acro/agressive flying or in windy conditions a 3S 2.5" would be more fun.
I tried to crimp on the motor plugs but had a terrible time as the connectors were so tiny, any tips on how to consistently get a good crimp?

Hi Swequad,

As a point of reference, I have a stock 2.5-inch GEPRC Phantom that has the GEPRC 16x16 
stack, 1103 8000 KV motors AND I built a 2.5-inch "Phantom" clone using the iFlight 16x16 
stack with the motor plugs and GEPRC 1103 8000 KV motors. I have used both 2S and 3S 
batteries with both quads and they both fly just fine. My standard battery is the GNB 3S 
1100 mAh one that weighs about 70 grams. Also, both quads are running the default, stock, 
tune that came with the stack. NO changes and NO tuning. Yep, they both fly fine.

I also have a 2-inch whoop running 1202 6000 KV motors which flies just fine on both 2S
and 3S batteries. 

I would not go higher than 8000 KV if you intend to use 3S batteries. Motors in the 5000 KV
to 8000 KV will run either 2S or 3S batteries. Yeah, 2S has less power, but sometimes that 
is not a bad thing. 

Although I don't have hard data, my perception is that the 1103 motors spin up a bit faster,
but the 1202 motors seem to be a bit more efficient. It all depends on what you want. Motors
in the 11xx - 12xx should all be fine, however, there will be performance differences depending
on the exact specifications of the motors.

Yes, you can use 1303 or even larger, but why? The prop size is really the limiting factor as it is
the prop surface (and RPM) that determines the thrust. Plus, bigger motors are heavier.

By the way, the 2.5-inch is my overall favorite size.

Later, iFly  

My Tinyhawk freestyle is 2.5”, Avan rush props.. stock motors on a Darwin 1-3s AIO.. fly it on 3s ALL DAY… can’t remember what the size or KV the motors are.. also Emax has “updated” made improvements on these motors.. (wires entering motor)… but they still use “double shafts”…I would replace them with another manufacture.. but I still have spares in my toolbox..

(30-Sep-2023, 12:57 PM)Rob Axel Wrote: My Tinyhawk freestyle is 2.5”, Avan rush props.. stock motors on a Darwin 1-3s AIO.. fly it on 3s ALL DAY… can’t remember what the size or KV the motors are.. also Emax has “updated” made improvements on these motors.. (wires entering motor)… but they still use  “double shafts”…I would replace them with another manufacture.. but I still have spares in my toolbox..

Hi Rob,

My all stock (still), first run, 2.5-inch EMAX Tinyhawk Freestyle (the original one, not the upgraded one)
is factory fitted with EMAX TH 1103 7000kv motors. Yeah, it still has the original dual 1S battery connector 
so I only use 2 x 1S cells (effective 2S). I have just not been able to convince myself that it is worth
changing the connector as it flies fine for my style and is great when flying in locations with limited 
space. As mentioned, this quad is completely all stock, no modifications, no tuning, and it is still
going strong. IE: If it ain't broke, then don't fix it. 

Later, My Friend, iFly  

I totally agree, and as for changing the connector(xt-30) I have read there maybe a possibility of to much current flow and could cause the esc to fail..
The only time I would suggest any changes is if a component (aio) failed.. mostly due to cost.. I have about 12 tinyhawks (wife’s class) and WHEN (not if) the AIOs failed (mostly from abuse)..the cost of a new Emax aio can be cut in half with a Darwin and a Betafpv frame swap..

Hi Rob,

You know, I have a spare Tinyhawk Freestyle frame that a bought just in case I needed it.
So far, not needed it. When I get finished building the house for our son, I might just do a
build with it. Hmmm. I will need to cut a top plate, but that is not a big deal; just cut it from
clear LEXAN plastic. Yeah, I will also likely need to cut an FC adapter and maybe use a set of 
aluminum cam braces up front for the camera mount. 

As always, I am impressed with your wife's work with the kids and your support for them. 

Later, My Friend, iFly  

I don’t care for the TH frames EXCEPT the “pro pilot” frame.. the motors and props sit a little “deeper” so when u crash the props don’t hit first (as much).. I like the Darwin aio 1s, the ELRS version has high failure rate but the d8 I have has taken abuse and asked for more.. I also prefer the Betafpv frame (inverted) the camera will mount between where the battery located..

I ordered 1103 10000kv for 2S and 1104 7500kv for 3S, a 3" TP frame and a AIO so I´m going to build one 2.5" with the 1103/10000/2S and a 3" with the 1104/7500/3S.

Thanks for your help sorting out the kv for 2S and 3S, I come from fixed wing flying, been flying since early 90´s and in fixed wing the motor choise is not as crittical as on quads.

(29-Sep-2023, 01:02 PM)mstc Wrote: For cruising around a light 2S 3" is great and get you more flight time too, but if you are doing more acro/agressive flying or in windy conditions a 3S 2.5" would be more fun.
I tried to crimp on the motor plugs but had a terrible time as the connectors were so tiny, any tips on how to consistently get a good crimp?

Do you have a grimping tool of good quality? That really makes a BIG difference! I have acces to "industrial quality" crimping tools trough my work and crimps a lot of different smal connectors when working, so I gues good tools and practice is the way to go.

Hi Swequad,

Yes, it is always nice to have quality tools, mostly. That said, I have a cheap soldering iron and I buy
most of my "quad" tools from Amazon; funny Chinese names or nameless, but they all seem to work
well. My "handyman" tools are pretty much all DeWalt.  

The motors that you have chosen should work just fine for you. 

Have Fun.

Later, iFly