Hi Everyone!
I want to set up my Jumper T-lite to control my Cetus X - FrSky version.
Atm I have bound the Jumper T-lite to the Cetus X and got it to fly. However it zooms around like a blue assed fly on heat. When it hits the floor it kangaroos around until it turns upside down, then it stops!

My constraints are:
I only have Android based devices (No Windows computer).
Betaflight cofigurator, even the Android version, doesn't support the Cetus X FrSky version (only the Cetus x Elrs version).
Betafpv configurator supports the Cetus X FrSky version.

I'm trying to get the hang of OpenTx on the T-lite to bring the Cetus under control.
Any tips would help. (Except 'bin the Cetus X FrSky'!).
Is the kangarooing due to Airmode? If so, how could I turn it off?

Yes, this thread is a spill-over from my first thread - Help 'Android configure Cetus X'
Learning all the time!

The T-lite has a very small led screen, but I feel that with patience this should be possible.

Is the T-Lite the Multiprotocol version or the ELRS version? If multi, it should bind without issue. If ELRS, then it isn't going to work due to being a completely different protocol.

As for it kangaroo'ing. Get used to disarming just as it lands. With time and practice you can actually land without this issue, without disarming, but it's something you learn over time. And yes it is due to airmode. The problem is you can't use Betaflight, if you could, you could tweak things like airmode. I actually wondered a while back whether you could put arm on a three position switch and have say pos 1 disarm, pos 2 arm / no airmode and pos 3 airmode on. that way as you come to land, you could switch arm to the middle position which would disable air mode, ready for landing. For now, I would suggest you get used to disarming, just as it touches down.

If that's the Silverware version, you're probably going to have to find a way to use the BetaFPV configurator. You might be able to change some settings with stick gestures, but those were limited in what you could change. You can check the Silverware Wiki & see if they have a section for the BetaFPV version there, and might help you out. If it's Betaflight and the BF config & the SpeedyBee config can't access it, again, you're probably stuck finding a way to use BetaFPV's proprietary configurator. You're going to have to make the changes you need to make in the flight software, and not just changing something on the radio.

You don't have to dump the whole Whoop, you could keep the quad & motors from the Cetus & dump the garbage Beta board for a Crazybee Frsky, Flysky, or DSMX, your Jumper can fly all of them, and be able to use the normal BF configurator & set it up how ever you want . . . 

Sorry, I think BetaFPV products are way overpriced, & their electronics are bottom grade garbage seconds, and that's being very polite. After having 5 out of 5 Beta boards either DOA or bite on first flight, I'd never buy anything electronic of theirs, especially their f/c boards again. Their customer service sucks pond scum too. They do make a great regular 85 & a regular 95 Whoop frame, but those are the only two things BetaFPV I'll buy.

Unless you're flying in Acro or AT, doesn't matter if Air is on or off. You can also put Air on a 2 way switch, and turn it on and off as needed. I set my modes on a 3 way switch with Angle, AT & Air, which is Acro with Air. Also make sure "Air Mode always on" in the Config tab is set to "Off" . . . if you could get to it with the Bf configurator . . .

Hi Nigels,

What you say is happening might be related to the mode you have it set to and the fact that you are not used to controlling it just yet.

The manual has some information about setting the different modes and a few other things via OSD (On Screen Display, when you access a configuration menu of the drone via the goggles display, when you're all connected).
Since you're using a different radio then the stock one, try to just check if the switches of your radio are somewhat mapped according to what the manual says for the stock one (they probably are, since you can arm it and take off). If they indeed are, then you can at least use the different modes to make it easier to fly it. I suggest to first try the N (normal) mode first on Slow setting and then work your way up in Speed and eventually on modes, to S (sport) and M (Manual).
You can see which mode you're on on the lower right corner of the goggle screen/OSD.

There is no mention of AIRMODE on the OSD menu, or in the manual at all, so lets assume that from factory settings this thing should fly just fine as it is unless there is a problem with it. It might need to be calibrated as well (check the manual below to see how its done).

You can check the manual here if you don't have one printed out: https://support.betafpv.com/hc/en-us/art...rsion_.pdf

(27-Mar-2023, 09:21 AM)cst3x6 Wrote: Hi Nigels,

What you say is happening might be related to the mode you have it set to and the fact that you are not used to controlling it just yet.

The manual has some information about setting the different modes and a few other things via OSD (On Screen Display, when you access a configuration menu of the drone via the goggles display, when you're all connected).
Since you're using a different radio then the stock one, try to just check if the switches of your radio are somewhat mapped according to what the manual says for the stock one (they probably are, since you can arm it and take off). If they indeed are, then you can at least use the different modes to make it easier to fly it. I suggest to first try the N (normal) mode first on Slow setting and then work your way up in Speed and eventually on modes, to S (sport) and M (Manual).
You can see which mode you're on on the lower right corner of the goggle screen/OSD.

There is no mention of AIRMODE on the OSD menu, or in the manual at all, so lets assume that from factory settings this thing should fly just fine as it is unless there is a problem with it. It might need to be calibrated as well (check the manual below to see how its done).

You can check the manual here if you don't have one printed out: https://support.betafpv.com/hc/en-us/art...rsion_.pdf

Thanks for that, particularly for the link to the manual which I hadn't found.
At the risk of throwing good money after bad, I've bought the proprietary transmitter second hand to see what's supposed to be happening. It should be here on April Fool's day!

No worries, glad that the info shared can be of some help to you.

Hopefully the "new" transmitter wont be a joke But in the mean time you can try playing around with the switches on the Jumper and check if they are actually configured or not according to the manual or at least identify which switch is doing what, if they turn out to be all good, you at least have a spare controller if you ever need it and if not.

(27-Mar-2023, 03:47 AM)Brian_OH Wrote: If that's the Silverware version, you're probably going to have to find a way to use the BetaFPV configurator. You might be able to change some settings with stick gestures, but those were limited in what you could change. You can check the Silverware Wiki & see if they have a section for the BetaFPV version there, and might help you out. If it's Betaflight and the BF config & the SpeedyBee config can't access it, again, you're probably stuck finding a way to use BetaFPV's proprietary configurator. You're going to have to make the changes you need to make in the flight software, and not just changing something on the radio.

You don't have to dump the whole Whoop, you could keep the quad & motors from the Cetus & dump the garbage Beta board for a Crazybee Frsky, Flysky, or DSMX, your Jumper can fly all of them, and be able to use the normal BF configurator & set it up how ever you want . . . 

Sorry, I think BetaFPV products are way overpriced, & their electronics are bottom grade garbage seconds, and that's being very polite. After having 5 out of 5 Beta boards either DOA or bite on first flight, I'd never buy anything electronic of theirs, especially their f/c boards again. Their customer service sucks pond scum too. They do make a great regular 85 & a regular 95 Whoop frame, but those are the only two things BetaFPV I'll buy.

Unless you're flying in Acro or AT, doesn't matter if Air is on or off. You can also put Air on a 2 way switch, and turn it on and off as needed. I set my modes on a 3 way switch with Angle, AT & Air, which is Acro with Air. Also make sure "Air Mode always on" in the Config tab is set to "Off" . . . if you could get to it with the Bf configurator . . .

Hi thanks for that.
I suspect if I could fly acro it would be controllable, but I don't yet have that skill, (I'm trying to develop it on a sim)
I might consider changing the FC board in the future, but atm it sounds like opening a whole new can of worms!
I'll definitely pursue the Silverware wiki whilst I wait until my proprietary TX arrives (see reply post below to Cst )

If it's a LiteRadio 1, please let me know how you get on with it. I am looking to buy one, to build an ultralight FPV kit that i could carry on a walking holiday (lightweight radio, lightweight goggles, 2S whoop, 3-4 Lipos and a USB charger).

If it's a LiteRadio 2 SE, they're ok. Potentiometer gimbals, but still fly ok. I upgraded one to ELRS a fortnight back. the only quirk I found (on mine) was to get the thing to arm, you had to pull the left stick (throttle/yaw) to bottom right (there was an offset issue).

If on the other hand it's a LiteRadio 3, they are more programmable and the gimbals can be upgraded to hall effect if you are electronically minded and don't mind removing some screws.

Oh and as for the rebuilding it, don't. Buy a Happymodel Cine8 ($120 @ GetFPV). No soldering required, 2-3S compatible, with onboard D8. It's a bit bigger than the one you have. To make it fly better, you could put the bits on a standard 85mm whoop frame. But I think we are getting ahead of ourselves. I shouldn't be suggesting you buy more quads.

So to get the switches on the Jumper to work you have to add them manually on the radio.  To do so is not the simplest task.  Watching some tutorial vids on YT is advisable.





These are all on the T-Lite, but the setup is pretty much the same.  Define mixes and channel outputs.

On the Computer Minimum thread in Beginners you said you have a Macbook. Have you tried running the MacOS version of BetaFPV Configurator on it?

https://github.com/BETAFPV/BETAFPV_Confi....1-RC1.zip

(27-Mar-2023, 11:25 AM)Nigels Wrote: Hi thanks for that.
I suspect if I could fly acro it would be controllable, but I don't yet have that skill, (I'm trying to develop it on a sim)
I might consider changing the FC board in the future, but atm it sounds like opening a whole new can of worms!
I'll definitely pursue the Silverware wiki whilst I wait until my proprietary TX arrives (see reply post below to Cst )

Air mode only works in Acro or Acro Trainer modes, and doesn't have anything to do with Angle mode so would not affect your landing. It is hard to feather in a landing, but as light as they are, Whoops can take a little bouncing easily.

The brushed Silverware boards never had an Arming switch, you just power up the throttle & it goes. My Jumper could fly the brushed Silverware boards on Bayang protocol, but I didn't have the extra toy switch settings the toy controllers had. I tried setting up the first couple switches on the radio to 2 position and save them, but they never matched up to anything with the brushed . . . but there might have never been anything there anyway. With the brushless board & it's setup, you may have more luck. The Arm switch is usually one of the first two switches assigned, which is why I tried setting up two switches. That Jumper is a good radio, it just doesn't like playing with certain toys . . .

I think arm is ch5. i defined Ch5-8 as switches on my Jumper. Due to the distinctly annoying layout of switches on the T-Pro, I have one 3 position for arming and the other one is down = angle, middle = acro, up = turtle. one day i will work out some way to use the other 8 buttons in some way. But literally all I use is arm/disarm, flight modes and turtle. Never could get buzzer to work for some reason, but then I tend to fly in pretty sterile environments where losing it is harder (quarries, car parks, etc).

(28-Mar-2023, 01:18 AM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: I think arm is ch5.  i defined Ch5-8 as switches on my Jumper.  Due to the distinctly annoying layout of switches on the T-Pro, I have one 3 position for arming and the other one is down = angle, middle = acro, up = turtle.  one day i will work out some way to use the other 8 buttons in some way.  But literally all I use is arm/disarm, flight modes and turtle. Never could get buzzer to work for some reason, but then I tend to fly in pretty sterile environments where losing it is harder (quarries, car parks, etc).

I shouldn't have said "channel", I meant the first two switches setting up the radio. I set my Arm switch as the first switch down the list on my screen, the top right 2-way switch on my T8. I use one of the left side 3 way switches for my modes, and the right top 2 way for my buzzer/beeper even when I don't hook one up. When I flick it, one of the LEDs starts blinking, which is great for night time & crashing it . . . if that would ever happen . . . 8^}

I never bother with a buzzer/beeper. If I have to go looking for it, I'll flip the Arm switch, give the motors a quick bump, and disarm. I can hear them rev a lot farther away than a buzzer, and even jammed up, never hurt a motor. Even if I did, it's still cheaper to replace a motor or two . . . or four . . . than replacing the whole quad.

I'm gonna have to take another look at the new compact Jumpers, I didn't notice anything odd about the setup on the radio. What's up with the switches? I was looking at those since they first came out, and have been tempted, but my old T8 does everything I need in a radio, and it has more bells & whistles than I'll ever use on it. I get great range, as good as the factory radios like the Frsky's & Flysky's get, and not into super long range anyway, so the ELRS doesn't mean much to me.

(28-Mar-2023, 06:22 AM)Brian_OH Wrote: What's up with the switches? I was looking at those since they first came out, and have been tempted, but my old T8 does everything I need in a radio, and it has more bells & whistles than I'll ever use on it. I get great range, as good as the factory radios like the Frsky's & Flysky's get, and not into super long range anyway, so the ELRS doesn't mean much to me.

So you get two switches that are three position, two gamepad style momentary switches, two pots and six more that can be made to be single switches by fiddling with the mixer tab (Bardwell has a video on YT on how to set them up to be single switches, but I also thought of setting three of them to be flight modes).  As a radio though I can't fault it.  The 1W ELRS is a bit of a misnomer.  It heats up to pretty warm on anything more than 100mW and keeps your hands warm in winter. I run mine on 100mW and on occasion have jacked it up to 150, but it gets warm at 150.  When i first got it, I did try 250mW and that was pretty toasty.  For those who think it won't have the power, it runs from 2x 18650's, so it does have the juice to do maybe 500mW, but it's going to be like holding a hot potato.  At 100mW It is good to half a mile or so, probably a lot more (but I didn't have a big enough set to try that over the summer).

I like my T-Pro and it's great for flying, but you have to be creative with the switches.  For me, I got rid of Horizon, so only angle/acro on one 3 way, with turtle on the top position of the same switch.  The other side is for arm/disarm, but i'm trying to work out how to setup the top position of  that switch to something else, maybe have that 3 way as disarm/arm/arm+airmode, not that i have need of switching airmode off (but it would be nice to know how to do it). Or I guess arm/disarm/buzzer could be another possibility.

Oscars review is pretty good.  Although he said his didn't come with an sd card.  Mine did, but when trying to get it out, it snapped.

https://oscarliang.com/jumper-t-pro/

It will also technically take an external module, like crossfire or maybe a 4-in-1.

If you were looking for a smaller handset, a la, something you can throw in a rucksack with some lightweight goggles, a whoop or two and a bunch of lipos.  It's pretty sweet for that.  i use it for that a fair bit.

I liked that game controller style since Frsky first came out with theirs. I'd probably be OK with the switches, but I usually just setup the three of them. My computer side wants the newest & greatest just because it is, the rest of me says your fixing something that ain't broke . . . and the computer just typed, "I let you type" . . . . 8^}

(27-Mar-2023, 11:19 AM)cst3x6 Wrote: No worries, glad that the info shared can be of some help to you.

Hopefully the "new" transmitter wont be a joke But in the mean time you can try playing around with the switches on the Jumper and check if they are actually configured or not according to the manual or at least identify which switch is doing what, if they turn out to be all good, you at least have a spare controller if you ever need it and if not.

So I got my Betafpv LiteRadio 3 yesterday and it took a little time to bind, but bind it did. I'm pretty sure it's performing as designed but it is a bit weird.
In its Angle mode the throttle can start activating
at different positions. I'm using it indoors and it generally stays in one place when I let go of the sticks. On one occasion though it gradually climbed up to the ceiling and 'stuck' there. It wouldn't come down by dropping the throttle to zero. So I had to disarm and let it drop onto the carpet!
I think the potentiometer gimbals work well, so I'll see if I really need to get my Jumper T-lite to control the Cetus X. I have a plan for it though!