Hi Rosssiiii,

The capacitor will be fine taped; you can leave it on. {on the other hand, electrical tape comes off pretty easily}. Yes, the short lead wire is Negative (-), Black wire; long lead wire is Positive (+), Red wire.  

"Dry Fit" means to assemble everything before you solder anything to be sure that the components fit, the wires are long enough, and you have room where you need it. 

Here is the thing about the wires. If you cut them too short, then you have to splice on more wire. Consequently, I generally make sure to have extra wire length on everything that I wire. When you are putting it together, if you think a wire is really too long then trim it at that time. This is just the way that I do it, but it is easier to have a bit more wire than to NOT have it long enough. You would be surprised how many times that you fit a wire, think it is just right, cut it, and then discover that is about 2mm too short and won't reach. Yeah, been there, done that, if ain't pretty. 

As SnowLeopardFPV indicates, there is no right or wrong way to route wires and no wrong place to locate components. Snow is a master at building quads and his layouts are shear beauty.  Me, not so much. I just want it to work. If it doesn't fly, then who cares what it looks like. I am a form follows function guy. Also, I change things often so I like leaving a little "extra" for the next use of the component, but that is just me. 

(09-Oct-2021, 12:01 PM)iFly4rotors Wrote: Hi Rosssiiii,

The capacitor will be fine taped; you can leave it on. {on the other hand, electrical tape comes off pretty easily}. Yes, the short lead wire is Negative (-), Black wire; long lead wire is Positive (+), Red wire.  

"Dry Fit" means to assemble everything before you solder anything to be sure that the components fit, the wires are long enough, and you have room where you need it. 

Here is the thing about the wires. If you cut them too short, then you have to splice on more wire. Consequently, I generally make sure to have extra wire length on everything that I wire. When you are putting it together, if you think a wire is really too long then trim it at that time. This is just the way that I do it, but it is easier to have a bit more wire than to NOT have it long enough. You would be surprised how many times that you fit a wire, think it is just right, cut it, and then discover that is about 2mm too short and won't reach. Yeah, been there, done that, if ain't pretty. 

As SnowLeopardFPV indicates, there is no right or wrong way to route wires and no wrong place to locate components. Snow is a master at building quads and his layouts are shear beauty.  Me, not so much. I just want it to work. If it doesn't fly, then who cares what it looks like. I am a form follows function guy. Also, I change things often so I like leaving a little "extra" for the next use of the component, but that is just me. 

Oh understand, yes before mount the condensator as i did i tested that later will be possible close the case.

yes i had to cut the cable and i also will leave a little extra because wouldn't be nice understand to have a too much short calbe
i did many checks to understand how much cut, if I let the cables pass from the inside, I should then have the possibility if something goes wrong to also pass them directly from the outside, since a longer cable is required to pass them from the inside i can cut later if needed.

I relate to this discussion, regarding welding:
https://intofpv.com/t-i-can-t-remove-the...#pid155720

in which I would like to understand if I can proceed to solder the motor cables once I have placed them in the hole on the esc, I would like to immediately solder everything without having to first pour the tin on the pad and then on the cable and then join them together

https://intofpv.com/t-increase-your-airtime
in here is an example how much spare i like on the motorwires, its on a tiny quad but its the same on a bigger one.