Hello

i need to replace motors and esc because i broke motors and i will use a 50a esc 4in1;

components that i will use in the replacement are:

A) Racerstar Air50 3-6S 50A - ESC;

B) iFlight XING E Pro 2207 2450kv;

I look forward to your advice on how to proceed in an orderly way, maybe first thing to do is:

1) remove the engines that i have on it;
2) remove esc and PD;
3) as on the original wizard i would like to put these "protections " for amrs and engines:
https://i.imgur.com/lo9c10E.jpg

but in case they will fit i will not be able to use anymore the screws that they give me with these iFlight  engines,because i think is not long enought.

-The screws that i received with engines is 8mm
-the original screws that i took with drone are 12mm

but if you screwed them to the maximum there was a risk of touching the windings.

I took some measures,

frame thickness/height: 5 mm 
motor protection thickness/height: 1mm 
frame protection thickness/height: 3-4mm
EDIT: i forget to consider that screws have to do 3.5mm to screw the engine support

in that case i should use the 12mm screw ?

All looks good and it seems you have it all in hand.

Suggest get some loctite as with the protectors you cannot do up the motor screws as tight as normal as you will damage the protectors so the screws tend to come loose a bit more easily.

This is the one to get

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/produ...ue242.html

(03-Oct-2021, 09:02 AM)UrbanJungle1966 Wrote: All looks good and it seems you have it all in hand.

Suggest get some loctite as with the protectors you cannot do up the motor screws as tight as normal as you will damage the protectors so the screws tend to come loose a bit more easily.

This is the one to get

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/produ...ue242.html

that could be good too ?

https://www.amazon.it/Liqui-Moly-3801-Fr..._ADHESIVES

is not too strong ? say medium

on 8mm screws that i received with the new engines that is alredy been applied

Should be fine. I am not familiar with that brand but same same I feel. You just need something to slow down the screws vibrating loose.

you can remove the pdb and desolder the motors later, if you like... or store it i a box as one piece until you get use for anything.

i know you wrote you like to add them again, my suggestion woould be to leave the "the motorprotector" away, they arent a protection for the motors, they wont help there.
on your picture are two pieces? a blue arm protector and the black "motor protector"?
the "protectors" are good marketing, from community experience there is no benefit out of them other than the look.

two flexibal materials will result in a much lower diameter if tightenet, you will need to watch carfully while tightening, you could run into the same issue otherwise

(03-Oct-2021, 12:06 PM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: you can remove the pdb and desolder the motors later, if you like... or store it i  a box as one piece until you get use for anything.

i know you wrote you like to add them again, my suggestion woould be to leave the "the motorprotector" away, they arent a protection for the motors, they wont help there.
on your picture are two pieces? a blue arm protector and the black "motor protector"?
the "protectors" are good marketing, from community experience there is no benefit out of them other than the look.

two flexibal materials will result in a much lower diameter if tightenet, you will need to watch carfully while tightening, you could run into the same issue otherwise

is there a way to understand that you don't need to tightenet then anymore ?

yes i could leave the engine protector, even if in diameter they don't incide too much, 1mm is very low value. But arm protector can be good to have.

yes i would store in a box esc, old engines and pdb all in one all in one piece.

when i will go to unscrew the group, esc, fc and vtx from where do i start to unscrew it? from the top of vtx i think ?

yes, start from the top. unplug and mark it or do some fotos to remember how it was assembled.

all boards will need to be removed once, as the pdb is on the bottom. reask if you gtbinto troubles :-)


im sorry if i confused you, everything needs to be tightened well.
a flexibel material will lose diameter while tightening. the armguard in tpu might get from 3mm to 1mm from tight screw fit, you will need to be carefull about screw length and tighten it step by step.

(03-Oct-2021, 07:41 PM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: yes, start from the top. unplug and mark it or do some fotos to remember how it was assembled.

all boards will need to be removed once, as the pdb is on the bottom. reask if you gtbinto troubles :-)


im sorry if i confused you, everything needs to be tightened well.
a flexibel material will lose diameter while tightening. the armguard in tpu might get from 3mm to 1mm from tight screw fit, you will need to be carefull about screw length and tighten it step by step.

Mhh i think i will use 8mm screws and i will make a mark on the top of the screws like that:
https://i.imgur.com/V7RmH64.jpg

and I'll have to keep in mind the number of times I take him around to get back to the same place.

5 screwings are enough to fill, without coming out of the threaded motor support...is adviced make the screw come out a little bit more in order to have a better grip? (clearly leaving a safety margin from the copper windings);

while there is a point (1 of the 4), where there is a motor power cable that passes immediately under the threaded support of the motor, in this case the screw really cannot be pulled out very much.

any advice to have a reference to understand what is the right time to stop because you just can't go further?

Is possible to unplug that Vtx cable from the vtx ?
https://i.imgur.com/LaeaWYx.png

just pull it or should it be unscrewed? I have noticed that it does not come off easily

(04-Oct-2021, 09:56 AM)Rosssiiii Wrote: Is possible to unplug that Vtx cable from the vtx ?
https://i.imgur.com/LaeaWYx.png

just pull it or should it be unscrewed? I have noticed that it does not come off easily

That's an MMCX connector and it just pulls out. It is clipped in with a C-ring so you need to pull on it hard. Make sure you pull it out straight and not at an angle otherwise you can end up with the end snapped off and stuck in the socket.

(04-Oct-2021, 10:03 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: That's an MMCX connector and it just pulls out. It is clipped in with a C-ring so you need to pull on it hard. Make sure you pull it out straight and not at an angle otherwise you can end up with the end snapped off and stuck in the socket.

yes i unplugged that cable and im going to next steps;

here some pictures that i did so far to remeber how to reasembly :
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1...sp=sharing

now im arrived to place the new esc on the frame, but i have some questions:

1) is that the correct verse ?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EnyVclW...sp=sharing

2) where should I solder and where to place in the frame the capacitor that they gave me with the esc ?
https://i.imgur.com/G6JrSEo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TyHUaod.jpg

3) the cable that connect the old PDB was with that layout:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xqPMJbO...sp=sharing
https://i.imgur.com/h5cfPDE.png

as we talked here:
https://intofpv.com/t-replacing-esc-on-w...#pid152170

where the user @iFly4rotors told me that i have to change the order of the JST a 8 pin cable (https://i.imgur.com/ktMSeeO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Uv8Daqx.jpg) that in the past was connected to between the FC and the PDB like in this way:
https://i.imgur.com/y8pCc7F.jpg

4) i always forget, what is the top and what the bottom of these JST cables ?
A) https://i.imgur.com/iaZ0eua.jpg (top)
B) https://i.imgur.com/3QWBzZg.jpg (bottom)

because i think that the top and to touch the wires that there are inside the plugin connector like that :
https://i.imgur.com/PH5IXtv.jpg

5) considering the order of how on the old PDB engines was connected ( https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xqPMJbO...sp=sharing ) is there a way to understand how to solder cables on new ESC to have immediately the correct verse of engines spinning ?

if not i will do later, i alredy did that questions times ago but i forget, sorry .

And sorry for all these questions, but i want to close that stuff sonner once again.

Hi Rosssiiii,

As mentioned, one of the critical things is the wiring between the Wizard FC and the Racerstar ESC board.

Notice in the order of the pins in the PCB picture. The FC should also have the pin labels.

The cable that you have shown appears to match the Wizard PCB as it is plugged in.


1) plug the cable into the Wizard FC {not the PCB} and notice what end has the GND; this will be Pin 1
2) plug the other end into the Racerstar 4in1 ESC board and notice the first pin closest to the M4 marking, Pin 1
3) I would mark that side of the connector so you know where Pin 1 is; where to start.
4) Keep the FC connector as it is and rewire the 4in1 connector. 
    Pin 1 on the FC should be GND ... goes to Pin 2 on the ESC ... GND
    Pin 2 on the FC should be BAT .... goes to Pin 1 on the ESC ... VBAT+
    Pin 3 on the FC should be M1  .... goes to Pin 8 on the ESC ... M1
    Pin 4 on the FC should be M2  .... goes to Pin 7 on the ESC ... M2
    Pin 5 on the FC should be M3  .... goes to Pin 6 on the ESC ... M3
    Pin 6 on the FC should be M4  .... goes to Pin 5 on the ESC ... M4
    Pin 7 on the FC should be CUR  .. goes to Pin 4 on the ESC ... CURR
    Pin 8 on the FC should be TX  .... Is not connected,  The ESC label is NC which means Not Connected.

How you re-pin the ESC connector is your choice; you could remove all of the pins from the connector
and then replace them one at a time tracing each wire from the FC and plugging it into the ESC
connector in the appropriate position. The method might actually be the easiest. 

This URL has a wiring diagram for the RacerStar ESC at the bottom of the product page. 

You might double check that this is the ESC that you have and refer to the wiring diagram.

I hope that this makes sense; let me know if it does not. 

ALSO...to others following this thread, please double check to ensure it is correct.

(04-Oct-2021, 02:50 PM)iFly4rotors Wrote: Hi Rosssiiii,

As mentioned, one of the critical things is the wiring between the Wizard FC and the Racerstar ESC board.

Notice in the order of the pins in the PCB picture. The FC should also have the pin labels.

The cable that you have shown appears to match the Wizard PCB as it is plugged in.


1) plug the cable into the Wizard FC {not the PCB} and notice what end has the GND; this will be Pin 1
2) plug the other end into the Racerstar 4in1 ESC board and notice the first pin closest to the M4 marking, Pin 1
3) I would mark that side of the connector so you know where Pin 1 is; where to start.
4) Keep the FC connector as it is and rewire the 4in1 connector. 
    Pin 1 on the FC should be GND ... goes to Pin 2 on the ESC ... GND
    Pin 2 on the FC should be BAT .... goes to Pin 1 on the ESC ... VBAT+
    Pin 3 on the FC should be M1  .... goes to Pin 8 on the ESC ... M1
    Pin 4 on the FC should be M2  .... goes to Pin 7 on the ESC ... M2
    Pin 5 on the FC should be M3  .... goes to Pin 6 on the ESC ... M3
    Pin 6 on the FC should be M4  .... goes to Pin 5 on the ESC ... M4
    Pin 7 on the FC should be CUR  .. goes to Pin 4 on the ESC ... CURR
    Pin 8 on the FC should be TX  .... Is not connected,  The ESC label is NC which means Not Connected.

How you re-pin the ESC connector is your choice; you could remove all of the pins from the connector
and then replace them one at a time tracing each wire from the FC and plugging it into the ESC
connector in the appropriate position. The method might actually be the easiest. 

This URL has a wiring diagram for the RacerStar ESC at the bottom of the product page. 

You might double check that this is the ESC that you have and refer to the wiring diagram.

I hope that this makes sense; let me know if it does not. 

ALSO...to others following this thread, please double check to ensure it is correct.

Hello

thanks for reply me

yes that is a picture of the FC and have same labels of the Fc in our scheme;

https://i.imgur.com/UVRkLwX.jpg

Quote:The cable that you have shown appears to match the Wizard PCB as it is plugged in.

yes that because is the cable that in the past was used to connect the FC to the PDB.

Does i have to do like in this video to swap cables from the JST connector ?


do I have to lift the tab that holds the cable and remove it? perhaps it is better that I remove them all first and then put them back one at a time ?

Hi Rosssiiii,

That is a very good video and EXACTLY how to do it.  This guy is really good and the close up shows the process exactly.

Yes, on the connector for the new ESC side, take all of the wires out from the connector...so the connector is empty.

In my reference I have chosen the GND on the FC to be Pin (or wire) 1.
Correspondingly, the closest to the M4 mark on the ESC to be Pin (or slot) 1.

So, let's begin:

The wire on Pin 1 on the FC is Black   - GND. Follow it back to the ESC connector, put into slot 2.
The wire on Pin 2 on the FC is Red      - BAT.  Follow it back to the ESC connector, put into slot 1.
The wire on Pin 3 on the FC is Black   - M1    Follow it back to the ESC connector, put into slot 8
The wire on Pin 4 on the FC is Red     - M2    Follow it back to the ESC connector,  put into slot 7
The wire on Pin 5 on the FC is White    - M3   Follow it back to the ESC connector,  put into slot 6
The wire on Pin 6 on the FC is Yellow - M4   Follow it back to the ESC connector,  put into slot 5
The wire on Pin 7 on the FC is Green  - CUR  Follow it back to the ESC connector, put into slot 4
The wire on Pin 8 on the FC is Blue    - TX    This wire is NOT connected to the ESC.

When you are finished, plug the ESC connector into the ESC and 
NOTE that the Red wire is closest to the M4 mark on the ESC board (next to a corner mount hole).

There you have it. This is the way that I would do it. 

(05-Oct-2021, 12:56 AM)iFly4rotors Wrote: Hi Rosssiiii,

That is a very good video and EXACTLY how to do it.  This guy is really good and the close up shows the process exactly.

Yes, on the connector for the new ESC side, take all of the wires out from the connector...so the connector is empty.

In my reference I have chosen the GND on the FC to be Pin (or wire) 1.
Correspondingly, the closest to the M4 mark on the ESC to be Pin (or slot) 1.

So, let's begin:

The wire on Pin 1 on the FC is Black   - GND. Follow it back to the ESC connector, put into slot 2.
The wire on Pin 2 on the FC is Red      - BAT.  Follow it back to the ESC connector, put into slot 1.
The wire on Pin 3 on the FC is Black   - M1    Follow it back to the ESC connector, put into slot 8
The wire on Pin 4 on the FC is Red     - M2    Follow it back to the ESC connector,  put into slot 7
The wire on Pin 5 on the FC is White    - M3   Follow it back to the ESC connector,  put into slot 6
The wire on Pin 6 on the FC is Yellow - M4   Follow it back to the ESC connector,  put into slot 5
The wire on Pin 7 on the FC is Green  - CUR  Follow it back to the ESC connector, put into slot 4
The wire on Pin 8 on the FC is Blue    - TX    This wire is NOT connected to the ESC.

When you are finished, plug the ESC connector into the ESC and 
NOTE that the Red wire is closest to the M4 mark on the ESC board (next to a corner mount hole).

There you have it. This is the way that I would do it. 

Hello

now i have completed the work of change cable position and looks like that:

https://i.imgur.com/GFPz5It.jpg

as said above.

I checked that the cables are now locked and that they don't come out of their slots.

so for the blue cable, i can remove it as i did ?
why is not required on that esc the bue cable ?


-----------------
1) the next step will be to mount the motors on the arms right?

2) i received the solder now, i could do a bit o practice in meantime on the old PDB that i have removed right ?
Maybe unsoldering and re-soldering engines from the PDB pad or the same with xt60 connector ?

3)before screwing the FC onto the drone, I then have to solder the capacitor, but where should it be soldered?