Posts: 125 Threads: 12 Likes Received: 86 in 45 posts Likes Given: 52 Joined: Jan 2017 Reputation: 8 As promised I will now start my Build Log. About 80% of my parts arrived, missing is the OSD, FPV Cam and... the frame -.- Parts: Frame: Martian II PDB: Realacc/Matek PDB-XPW OSD: MinimOSD VTX: Eachine TS5840 FCAM: Runcam Swift ESC: DYS XSD 30A Motor: RCX RS2206 V2 2400kv Remote/RX: Flysky FS-i6X X6B Antenna: Aomway Cloverleaf FPV Goggles: Kylin FPV Vision Goggles Charger: iSDT Q6 300W FC: SP F3 EVO Props: 5x4.5 DAL V2 LiPos:Turnigy Graphene 1300mAh Pretinning  First compact wiring, but the XT60 cable put to much stress on the USB connector  Now rewired with the PDB turned 180° to the FC  Top view (yes i remapped the 4 ESC signal Cables)  I like turtles Posts: 1,504 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 944 in 654 posts Likes Given: 2,142 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 24 Looking forward to the rest of your build... Now where is the f*cking frame?! Lol. Windless fields and smokeless builds Posts: 2,286 Threads: 38 Likes Received: 1,527 in 995 posts Likes Given: 1,881 Joined: Apr 2016 Reputation: 72 Looking good!
Personally, I'd have just connected the wires from the flight controller to the S1, 2, 3 and 4 pads on the PDB in the correct order to solve the problem of getting the correct motor signal to the appropriate corner of the board, but whatever works for you! Posts: 125 Threads: 12 Likes Received: 86 in 45 posts Likes Given: 52 Joined: Jan 2017 Reputation: 8 14-Apr-2017, 10:50 AM (This post was last modified: 14-Apr-2017, 10:51 AM by Apicalis.) (14-Apr-2017, 05:49 AM)Tom BD Bad Wrote: Looking forward to the rest of your build... Now where is the f*cking frame?! Lol. Don't ask me man, damn untracked chinese packages xD I am on edge! (14-Apr-2017, 10:04 AM)unseen Wrote: Looking good!
Personally, I'd have just connected the wires from the flight controller to the S1, 2, 3 and 4 pads on the PDB in the correct order to solve the problem of getting the correct motor signal to the appropriate corner of the board, but whatever works for you! Since I am a very forgetful guy the argument of issues when flashing firmwares and forgetting about the remap was too valuable for me ^^ I like turtles Posts: 2,286 Threads: 38 Likes Received: 1,527 in 995 posts Likes Given: 1,881 Joined: Apr 2016 Reputation: 72 Ah, you did a hardware remap rather than a software one.  ![[-]](https://intofpv.com/images/collapse.png) • Posts: 5,319 Threads: 673 Likes Received: 3,156 in 1,744 posts Likes Given: 2,031 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 139 so clean!  good job with routing the wires underneath the FC ! • Posts: 125 Threads: 12 Likes Received: 86 in 45 posts Likes Given: 52 Joined: Jan 2017 Reputation: 8 (14-Apr-2017, 11:04 AM)unseen Wrote: Ah, you did a hardware remap rather than a software one. Yup yup yup (14-Apr-2017, 06:49 PM)Oscar Wrote: so clean! good job with routing the wires underneath the FC ! Was surprisingly easy to route them there. Also they have a bit overlength so you can lift the FC up for like 1-2cm to quick solder something I like turtles • Posts: 267 Threads: 26 Likes Received: 37 in 25 posts Likes Given: 68 Joined: Aug 2016 Reputation: 2 Clean wiring. But i can not see ground wires from escs... • Posts: 1,773 Threads: 30 Likes Received: 1,199 in 755 posts Likes Given: 714 Joined: Oct 2016 Reputation: 45 (16-Apr-2017, 05:04 PM)lorentz Wrote: Clean wiring. But i can not see ground wires from escs... That's always a subjective subject. My current build only has signal wires going to the FC (no ground) as I'm using opto ESCs and FC is powered from PDB. Some guys always use negative, some guys say it's not necessary. But I' d like to hear other thoughts. • Posts: 2,286 Threads: 38 Likes Received: 1,527 in 995 posts Likes Given: 1,881 Joined: Apr 2016 Reputation: 72 Put it this way...
If the signal ground wasn't important, the manufacturers wouldn't put one on the ESC!
Absolutely nothing in electronics is subjective. The signal grounds, especially when twisted together with the signal wire will help ensure that the signal to the ESC has as little noise as possible. When the flight controller is talking to the ESC via pulses that need to have their length measured very accurately, everything that preserves the integrity of that signal is a good idea. Posts: 1,773 Threads: 30 Likes Received: 1,199 in 755 posts Likes Given: 714 Joined: Oct 2016 Reputation: 45 (16-Apr-2017, 06:45 PM)unseen Wrote: Put it this way...
If the signal ground wasn't important, the manufacturers wouldn't put one on the ESC!
Absolutely nothing in electronics is subjective. The signal grounds, especially when twisted together with the signal wire will help ensure that the signal to the ESC has as little noise as possible. When the flight controller is talking to the ESC via pulses that need to have their length measured very accurately, everything that preserves the integrity of that signal is a good idea. Just another reason this is my favorite forum. Matters explained so that even I can understand hahaha. Thanks unseen, I'll be sure to add the ground wires Posts: 125 Threads: 12 Likes Received: 86 in 45 posts Likes Given: 52 Joined: Jan 2017 Reputation: 8 Update: I got my letter for the customs office today! Wish me luck that it's my frame and the PDB and not just my Runcam. The Runcam can wait ^^ Also I connected the motors with their full length wires for test purposes. I managed to bind my FlySky i6x to the x6b receiver and was able to setup my AUX Channels and the telemetry. I configured the ARM switch on the 3 way switch for Air/Angle/Horizon mode (which works, I can see the Modes turning on and off in Betaflight and of course the motors start to spin). How can I add the other 2 switchs I have on my remote so I can use it to trigger the buzzer ? Shouldnt the x6b Receiver support 10 Channels ? ESC settings in Beta flight set to "oneshot125" works fine and I can throttle them all up. On Dshot600 the Motor 4 doesn't work  [ I have the DYS XSD 30A ESCs ]. I also don't know how to switch the Rotation direction. All Motors right now run Counterclockwise. Any recommendations on the Rates so the Quad is not to quick in it's movements? (16-Apr-2017, 05:04 PM)lorentz Wrote: Clean wiring. But i can not see ground wires from escs... The Signal ground wire is not connected (16-Apr-2017, 06:17 PM)RENOV8R Wrote: That's always a subjective subject. My current build only has signal wires going to the FC (no ground) as I'm using opto ESCs and FC is powered from PDB. Some guys always use negative, some guys say it's not necessary. But I' d like to hear other thoughts. We will see how my build performs. I have also only connected the signal wires. For example the BAT Voltage Input for measurement on the EVO F3 is also only the positive connection as i wanted as little wires connecting as possible. The Ground connection of course is still there via the +5V and GND for the Rails on the board. (16-Apr-2017, 06:45 PM)unseen Wrote: Put it this way...
If the signal ground wasn't important, the manufacturers wouldn't put one on the ESC!
Absolutely nothing in electronics is subjective. The signal grounds, especially when twisted together with the signal wire will help ensure that the signal to the ESC has as little noise as possible. When the flight controller is talking to the ESC via pulses that need to have their length measured very accurately, everything that preserves the integrity of that signal is a good idea. Of course you are right that a twisted pair wire reduces noise influence. We will see how it performs. The ESC LiPo wires are of course one of the big reasons for noise on the board, caused by the high current and the quick switching. But right now I don't think noise will be a big issue on the ESC signal wires. BUT of course I have no expirience in the practical flight since this is my first build so this might be dead wrong, also the signal wires on the PDB might be really close to the positive Battery voltage which leads to a lower resistance of capacitive coupling. *Sidenote: I would've connected the signal GND if there was a dedicated pad on the PDB but there was none and I didn't want to add it to the big GND Connection for esthetic reasons. If I have issues with noise I will go ahead and use some thin diameter coaxial cable to give it some awesome looks (16-Apr-2017, 07:25 PM)RENOV8R Wrote: Just another reason this is my favorite forum. Matters explained so that even I can understand hahaha. Thanks unseen, I'll be sure to add the ground wires It's definetly a great forum here  I like turtles Posts: 1,773 Threads: 30 Likes Received: 1,199 in 755 posts Likes Given: 714 Joined: Oct 2016 Reputation: 45 Actually, the Lipo wires aren't the biggest cause of noise, the motors are the #1 culprit. (both voltage spike and vibration through the frame) Soft mounts for the motors and capacitors on the ESCs will help. Keep in mind I'm talking about "noise" affecting the FC's gyro, not video noise (that's a whole different matter) • Posts: 125 Threads: 12 Likes Received: 86 in 45 posts Likes Given: 52 Joined: Jan 2017 Reputation: 8 AAAAAAND of course the package i received today was the Runcam and not my Frame+OSD... The last damn thing I get delivered is my god damn frame ... *rage intesifies* (18-Apr-2017, 07:43 PM)RENOV8R Wrote: Actually, the Lipo wires aren't the biggest cause of noise, the motors are the #1 culprit. (both voltage spike and vibration through the frame) Soft mounts for the motors and capacitors on the ESCs will help. Keep in mind I'm talking about "noise" affecting the FC's gyro, not video noise (that's a whole different matter) The Noise gets into all the circuits via the LiPo wires (with LiPo wires I meant the wires coming from the PDB to the ESCs). Of course the high current draw by the motors over the ESC and their high switching frequencies are the cause but they all draw the current via the ESC power wires [previously called LiPo wires ^^ ] I like turtles Posts: 125 Threads: 12 Likes Received: 86 in 45 posts Likes Given: 52 Joined: Jan 2017 Reputation: 8 Aaaaaaaaaand the problems won't stop. Today i realised that the +5V Supply from the PDB doesn't work. After i desoldered all my wires and check every mm of the board for little solder drops I came out empty handed  So I measured everything again and came to the conclusion that the Regulator itself must be broken and desoldered it what lead to a surprise  One of the legs was appearently broken. When I desoldered the IC with the heatgun and lifted it gently up... one of the legs remained on the board.  This should be an easy fix with the same IC. But since I currently don't know which IC it is (it's only labeled AGCG) I ordered the same PDB for the doubled price (12€) on Amazon Prime. I will contact the manufacturer for the IC so i can order one and fix the board to have it as a spare part. I also contacted Banggood for a refund I like turtles |
