Why not buy a DJI Avata to start with? Is a terrible drone in terms of flight characteristics but is something to start with, you know is going to work, is covered by DJI warranty, and no messing around is needed.

I have an Electronics Engineering degree and I work for Arm, which designs the CPUs found in STM32 that are nearly on every flight controller. However, I'm still a beginner in FPV and I found it very challenging. I used to solder components for 25 years (as a hobby) and even so, I've still messed up 2 ESCs because I did not have a suitable iron station or the appropriate solder. I highly recommend TBS solder which is Tin/Lead: 63/37 and makes your life so much easier.

I still struggle with a lot of things and is true that it ain't cheap but is all about the journey and learning experience. You don't need someone around to help you, there are so many resources online and YouTube videos, just take it easy. If you youse Facebook there are plenty of groups that can help with problems you might encounter.

Like most things in life, the journey is painful and hard but the reward at the end makes it all worth it.

Learn to fix things yourself. The whole attitude of "I want to fly NOW and learn to solder and other stuff later" is a road doomed to failure. There are people I've helped in my community by fixing their stuff and I regret it, because those people - still, years later - have no idea how to fix their gear. They relied on me to do it every time. This is not a hobby where you want to have to depend on others, because things break all the time.

(12-Jan-2024, 07:04 PM)Birbal Wrote: I highly recommend TBS solder which is Tin/Lead: 63/37 and makes your life so much easier.

But does it?

I have TBS Solder and it's a real pile of doodoo.  At University i used some 60/40 solder that the Uni procured which isn't a patch on the kester solder I currently use.  But the TBS solder is just hard to use.  it doesn't flow and is too thick for micros.  I would still  go with the Kester solder I use over TBS solder.  But maybe he wants really thick solder, that doesn't flow, but just sticks to your tip and congeals.

I like the recommendations that Rossmann gave a long while back. Kester 63/37 0.015in solder and Amtech NC-559-V2-TF flux. Makes for some beautiful joints!

This is one of my ESCs and an LED PDB that has been soldered using 60/40 Loctite / Multicore branded solder and flux paste from a no-name tub that was sourced from AliExpress...

Any pictures or links to the products you are talking about, please

(13-Jan-2024, 03:26 AM)samysh Wrote: Any pictures or links to the products you are talking about, please

Both of the products I use can be found on Amazon. They're a little pricy, but I've had the same roll and tube for like five years now and they're still far from used up.

The Loctite / Multicore solder I use is linked to below. It's a 250g roll of 0.46mm 60/40 Tin/Lead. Loctite solder which tends to be easier and cheaper to get hold of in Europe than Kester, and it's every bit as good which is reflected in it's high price...

• Loctite/Multicore Solder: https://uk.farnell.com/multicore-loctite.../dp/419308
  

Below is a link to the cheap "no-name" flux I've been using. It is branded as "YH" (an abbreviation of Yihua) who are a Chinese company that make soldering related products (my soldering iron is the same brand) but that particular tub of flux is sold by other companies too who just slap their own label on it, so the actual manufacturer of it is unknown. It's not the best flux which you can probably tell by the price, but it seems to a good enough job in my experience as you can see from my solder joints in post #20. I just flood the pads with it so they never run dry of flux during soldering.

• Yihua Advanced Quality Soldering Paste 180g (ZJ-18): https://hobbyking.com/en_us/yihua-advanc...-180g.html
  

I also have a syringe of MG Chemicals 8341 no clean flux paste which I only tend to use for special jobs such as the replacement of an iPad Air 3 data/charging port (photos HERE) because it's quite expensive flux (~£15 GBP for only 10ml).

As mentioned, I use a Yihua branded soldering & hot air station (Yihua 995D+) which is nothing special like the Hakko or Weller stations are, but it works well enough for me and it does the job. I've had it for nearly a decade and it's never let me down (knock on wood).

>> I am not good at soldering, and I do not want to waste time soldering.

(13-Jan-2024, 12:44 PM)LiPoFly Wrote: >> I am not good at soldering, and I do not want to waste time soldering.

Well, you gotta learn to walk (solder), before you can run (fly)..
Don’t think of it as “wasting time”…it’s a is part of the game..
… this is one reason I do not toss old / broken electronic components away.. I practice on them.. first soldering.. now I’m trying to remove / replace components..
  And YES, I do know how get to Carnegie Hall from here…

I have to agree. Even if you use FC boards with plugs for motors and for the vtx or camera, you still have to solder the power leads.

The problem with soldering tiny whoop stuff is that it is so TINY. This requires lots of delicate work and requires practice. It also requires really good equipment. You can read up on soldering equipment in these fora and from Oscar Liang and others.

I am still far from good at soldering but I recognize it is a necessary evil. So far I have not smoked anything. I need better eyes.

How are you "experts" using flux paste? I have good results soldering, I use Kester rosin core, and a nice Weller soldering station. But I never use flux paste. Are you priming the board pads with it and cleaning it away after?

(14-Jan-2024, 05:24 AM)husafreak Wrote: How are you "experts" using flux paste? I have good results soldering, I use tester rosin core, and a nice Weller soldering station. But I never use flux paste. Are you priming the board pads with it and cleaning it away after?

I'm no expert. Just a guy with a little practice.

I just dab some on so there is a light puddle around what I'm working on. It helps keep oxidation from occurring while also helping the solder flow into nice droplets on the pads. I also apply it to wires I'm tinning so solder quickly adheres to all of the wire strands. It's not a requirement, but it helps so much that I'd only ever skip it when removing wires from their pads. As for cleaning, I only really do that if it's made a serious mess or I'm trying to make things pretty. Just some isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush to clean. Spray, soft toothbrush, and spray again to drip it away, then dry with air. Of course, there are many different flux pastes out there, and some aren't optional to clean up as they'll slowly destroy things.

No man can do everything and certainly not all at once. 
Most things require starting at the bottom and then working
one's way up; one step at a time. If it is something that one
really wants to do or accomplish, then don't give up when
a hurdle is encountered. Relax, take it in stride, and continue.

You know, advice that is given to someone is often a result of 
the question that is asked and how much information is given 
about the situation by the person asking the question.

The more someone knows about the situation, the advice given 
will be better. Otherwise, it is sort of a shot in the dark. We all 
want to be helpful, but it takes an understanding of the situation.
The more a person knows about the entire situation (beyond 
just a simple question about a specific issue), the better the
advice will be. 

For a true beginner that has absolutely no skills, the best overall
option is a combo kit that includes the quad, the radio transmitter,
and the goggles, everything you need and all assembled; no need
to solder and the quad might even be bound to the transmitter.
From what I can tell, the EMAX EZ Pilot TinyHawk combo is one
such kit. This is as easy as it gets.

So, if the question is:  I know nothing, but want to fly FPV.
Then the answer is:    Buy a combo kit. 

Building is fine, but it requires a whole lot more of everything
including solder skills, assembly skills, selecting the right parts
for the specific type of build, making sure that things are (at the
very least) compatible, configuring and maybe a lot more. This 
is not a bad thing, but it is absolutely complex especially for a
beginner. 

Life is full of adventures, endeavors, and just things to do,
but almost always require some money and maybe some
skills.

Before laying down any money on anything, it is good advise
to do a lot of research; not a little bit, A LOT. Then, ask some
relevant questions such as the following:

1) How do I get into this?
2) What is required?
3) How much will it cost?
4) What are the major issues?
5) Where can I get help?

If skills are required, then it is whether or not one has those
skills and whether or not one want's to learn them. 

Hi Samysh,

If you want to fly, then buy a combo kit.

As for the parts, you can
1) Continue working on it, learn, and keep trying.
2) put them in a box until you want to try building again.
3) Have someone else do the assembly which might require 
    more parts and more money. This option may or may not
    work out how you plan so give it careful consideration
    before you do anything. 

Relax, have patience, and just take some time to consider
where you want to go with this and what might really be
involved before you make your next decision.

It will all work out if you want it to.

Later, iFly