I was trying to flash latest firmware on my R9 Slim+ OTA, my both internal and external modules were off, i plugged the receiver on taranis led didn't turn on and when i hit the flash s.port device it said s.port device is not responding then i turned on the external module and chose (r9m access) then plugged again, this time led turned on(red/flashing) again i hit the flash s.port device while taranis says resetting device led goes off then taranis says device is not responding and led goes on again. On my 3rd try, i change external module to R9m only, this time led didn't turn on and receiver smelt a lil bit then led never turn on again   It's so freaking frustrating to have that kind of problem on my first ever build which i've been waiting it for about 4 months. How could this happen, what was the problem here? 

https://ibb.co/QM2S6br
https://ibb.co/GkyDG3r
https://ibb.co/99YTVVJ

It appears to me that the way your rx is pinned the red wire is ground and the black wire is VCC. Is it possible you hooked it up backwards?

Edit, just saw your 3rd pic and you have not reverse polaritied it.

You've got a red wire going into the GND pin of the connector plug on the Slim+ and a black wire going to the VCC pin (i.e. reverse colours than what you would expect for positive and negative connections).

Then you have different colour wires patching those to your Taranis. I can see it being really easy to momentarily confuse things and inadvertently connect something up the wrong way round by accident, especially the VCC and GND wires to the Slim+. Are you sure you didn't do this by mistake, because connecting reverse polarity voltage can damage the Slim+, and in the worse case, fry it completely. Even I had to double and triple check how things were connected end-to-end before I realised all the wire colour anomalies.

Why is there a black wire going to the VCC pin of the Slim+ and a red wire going to the GND pin? I would certainly correct that for starters, and then make sure the colours of your patch wires also match so there is zero chance of any confusion when connecting things up.

you should use flash external module, not s.port.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_conti...e=emb_logo

(12-Mar-2020, 12:03 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: You've got a red wire going into the GND pin of the connector plug on the Slim+ and a black wire going to the VCC pin (i.e. reverse colours than what you would expect for positive and negative connections).

Then you have different colour wires patching those to your Taranis. I can see it being really easy to momentarily confuse things and inadvertently connect something up the wrong way round by accident, especially the VCC and GND wires to the Slim+. Are you sure you didn't do this by mistake, because connecting reverse polarity voltage can damage the Slim+, and in the worse case, fry it completely. Even I had to double and triple check how things were connected end-to-end before I realised all the wire colour anomalies.

Why is there a black wire going to the VCC pin of the Slim+ and a red wire going to the GND pin? I would certainly correct that for starters, and then make sure the colours of your patch wires also match so there is zero chance of any confusion when connecting things up.

Slim+ comes with 2x connector. Con1 is for con1 side of receiver which you see on the photo and it's colors are correct so i kept that for FC and used con2 for flashing that's why wires are anormal. Vcc goes to 3rd pin(3rd from top), s.port goes to bottom, gnd goes to 4rd pin (middle at vcc+s.port).

(12-Mar-2020, 12:05 AM)pdawid Wrote: you should use flash external module, not s.port.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_conti...e=emb_logo

Yeah i know that however external module didn't show up. Only s.port and OTA options showed up and on my taranis, i have installed opentx companion 2.3.5 and flashed firmware as shown; https://prnt.sc/rezi53

I just realised you have the X9D+ 2019. When flashing a receiver using that new ACCESS equipped version of the X9D+ you need to use the 3-pin "Smart Port" connector inside the battery cover and not the pins in the JR module bay. It is that Smart Port connector where the "Flash S.Port device" data communication is routed to.

(12-Mar-2020, 01:18 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: I just realised you have the X9D+ 2019. When flashing a receiver using that new ACCESS equipped version of the X9D+ you need to use the 3-pin "Smart Port" connector inside the battery cover and not the pins in the JR module bay. It is that Smart Port connector where the "Flash S.Port device" data communication is routed to.

In every video i have watched people use external module and flash external module option shows up i didn't know that s.port connector is different. I was expecting to see flash external module which didn't show up then tried flash s.port so this explains why i couldn't flash but why external option didn't show up and how i fried the receiver? On first try the external module was off and receiver's led didn't turn on after that i turned on the external module (r9m access) and the led turned on when i hit the flas s.port device led turned off after failed it turned on again. Can this fry a receiver?

(12-Mar-2020, 10:59 AM)Frenzi3d Wrote: In every video i have watched people use external module and flash external module option shows up i didn't know that s.port connector is different. I was expecting to see flash external module which didn't show up then tried flash s.port so this explains why i couldn't flash but why external option didn't show up and how i fried the receiver? On first try the external module was off and receiver's led didn't turn on after that i turned on the external module (r9m access) and the led turned on when i hit the flas s.port device led turned off after failed it turned on again. Can this fry a receiver?

I think your Slim+ receiver is probably OK. Just try flashing it again using that S.Port connection in the battery bay.

The reason all the videos show the JR module bay connector being used is because they are all using the older (pre-2019) X9D+ which has been around for years (now discontinued) and doesn't have that S.Port connector, so the only way to flash receivers on those older versions is by using the JR module bay connector. FrSky added the S.Port connector to the new 2019 versions of the X9D+ to make it easier to flash receivers in the same way that you do with the QX7 transmitters which also have that S.Port connector. It's also a safety measure which means you can't accidentally flash receiver firmware to an installed JR bay module.

(12-Mar-2020, 11:08 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: I think your Slim+ receiver is probably OK. Just try flashing it again using that S.Port connection in the battery bay.

The reason all the videos show the JR module bay connector being used is because they are all using the older (pre-2019) X9D+ which has been around for years (now discontinued) and doesn't have that S.Port connector, so the only way to flash receivers on those older versions is by using the JR module bay connector. FrSky added the S.Port connector to the new 2019 versions of the X9D+ to make it easier to flash receivers in the same way that you do with the QX7 transmitters which also have that S.Port connector. It's also a safety measure which means you can't accidentally flash receiver firmware to an installed JR bay module.

I wish there could be a more clear statement and manual lol. As i said i have tried several times, on last try i might have connected gnd-signal crossed i am sure about vcc but not sure about gnd and signal they might be crossed after that it smelt a lil and led never goes on again.

(12-Mar-2020, 11:29 AM)Frenzi3d Wrote: I wish there could be a more clear statement and manual lol. As i said i have tried several times,  on last try i might have connected gnd-signal crossed i am sure about vcc but not sure about gnd and signal they might be crossed after that it smelt a lil and led never goes on again.

In that case, you've probably unfortunately fried your Slim+, especially if you smelt burning and now it won't power on. A lot of small electronic items can't handle reverse polarity being applied to them and will just die if you do that.

There doesn't seem to be any documented information on the order of the pins in the Smart Port connector of the X9D+ 2019 and as per usual FrSky standards, on the QX7 and X-Lite the pin ordering is different between the two. You will therefore probably need to use a multimeter in DC voltage mode to work out which of the pins in the Smart Port connector are VCC (5V) and GND, which means the other one will then be the S.Port pin.

(12-Mar-2020, 11:48 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: In that case, you've probably unfortunately fried your Slim+, especially if you smelt burning and now it won't power on. A lot of small electronic items can't handle reverse polarity being applied to them and will just die if you do that.

There doesn't seem to be any documented information on the order of the pins in the Smart Port connector of the X9D+ 2019 and as per usual FrSky standards, on the QX7 and X-Lite the pin ordering is different between the two. You will therefore probably need to use a multimeter in DC voltage mode to work out which of the pins in the Smart Port connector are VCC (5V) and GND, which means the other one will then be the S.Port pin.

Dude, thanks for the information, i have asked that in frsky groups as well even though i stated my transmitter, people didn't notice that and keep saying me that i should use flash external module. I checked Taranis and pin order is clearly stated however i didn't know that i have to use s.port. Anyways i have fried the receiver and unfortunately should wait for 1 more month, thanks for your help. Can you check my wiring and soldering. ( I soldered 4 cables of receiver s.bus out, s.port, vcc and gnd will desolder sbus) and pigtail+capacitor solders have to be improved i guess. If everything is ok should i connect to betaflight and check the motors, cam vtx etc. w/o receiver?

https://imgur.com/ti75UWN
https://imgur.com/ennuso2
https://imgur.com/X6v5sDV
https://imgur.com/hJmwapd
https://imgur.com/W9ULfkQ
https://imgur.com/H7KwMnh

I'm not sure if you're asking for verification of the wiring or quality of the solder joints, but you don't show the receiver in any of the pictures so it's not immediately clear which wires are for the receiver and if they are connected to the correct pins at the receiver end. I guess it's probably all the wires at the bottom of the second picture where there are a 2 reds, 2 blacks, 2 greens, and 2 whites, but there is no clue where any of those go off to.

(13-Mar-2020, 08:25 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: I'm not sure if you're asking for verification of the wiring or quality of the solder joints, but you don't show the receiver in any of the pictures so it's not immediately clear which wires are for the receiver and if they are connected to the correct pins at the receiver end. I guess it's probably all the wires at the bottom of the second picture where there are a 2 reds, 2 blacks, 2 greens, and 2 whites, but there is no clue where any of those go off to.

Asking both for verification and quality of the solder joints. I didn't connect stuffs only cables are soldered so i didn't take photo of the ends of the cables.

https://imgur.com/a/SK5mZDZ
https://imgur.com/a/SInbioZ

That's better  

Your image of the Slim+ is for a Slim so that's a little bit confusing.

Unless you have a good reason to use SBUS/S,Port, then I would recommend using FPORT instead (you will need to flash the FLEX FPORT firmware to the Slim+). That will only use a single wire from the RX1 pad on the Slim+ to the T4 pad on the Kakute F7 instead of two wires, and means you can do away with a wire from S.Port to the T4 pad or a wire from SBUS to the R6 pad.

You don't need the RSSI connection which is for analog RSSI data. RSSI data gets sent with the serial SBUS or FPORT data connection which makes analog RSSI redundant.

I'm sure I've had the above conversation before (?) Maybe it was with someone else   

The solder joints look acceptable although one of the white wires has a little bit too much insulation cut off meaning there is a risk of shorting it out.