Keep in mind that a decent VRX module like the ImersionRC RapidFIRE of the TBS Fusion will set you back another $120-150 on top of the goggles.

I didn't think you were going to consider HDO2's because of their high price, so there is another pair I purposely didn't include. If money is no longer a barrier and you are already considering the HDO2's then also take a look at the $600 Orqa's. Again, with those you also need to budget for a VRX module on top of the price of the goggles because they don't come with one.

https://www.getfpv.com/orqa-fpv-one-oled...oggle.html

Oh, and you don't get antennas either with the HDO2's or the Orqa's, so add another $30-$50 on top of that for decent ones of those

Snow, you sold him the product but did not tell him about the hidden charges. I am not going to your used car dealership.

(12-Jul-2020, 12:49 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Keep in mind that a decent VRX module like the ImersionRC RapidFIRE of the TBS Fusion will set you back another $120-150 on top of the goggles.

I didn't think you were going to consider HDO2's because of their high price, so there is another pair I purposely didn't include. If money is no longer a barrier and you are already considering the HDO2's then also take a look at the $600 Orqa's. Again, with those you also need to budget for a VRX module on top of the price of the goggles because they don't come with one.

https://www.getfpv.com/orqa-fpv-one-oled...oggle.html

Oh, and you don't get antennas either with the HDO2's or the Orqa's, so add another $30-$50 on top of that for decent ones of those

Oh wow!!! I never checked out the price of the VRX module but I thought one YouTube video said like $30-$40 ... That's a big difference. I didn't know about the antennas though ... Ouch!
I saw the Orqas, someone was comparing the HDO2, Orqa and DJI on a YouTube video.

You can get VRX for about $40. Like the Achilles VRX which is one 9f the best traditional diversity VRX. Both the TBS Fusion and Rapidfire use more advanced technology to slightly get improved video. I personally have the Rapidfire, but it has been over a year. The current TBS Fusion is supposed to be the VRX to get due to performance and price.

(12-Jul-2020, 01:47 AM)voodoo614 Wrote: Snow, you sold him the product but did not tell him about the hidden charges. I am not going to your used car dealership.

So, you're one of those guys who just isn't satisfied with the "free" set of budget mats I gave you for you new car after I persuaded you to part with 3 times what you were originally intending to spend on a new car

(12-Jul-2020, 04:28 AM)Skamp284 Wrote: Oh wow!!! I never checked out the price of the VRX module but I thought one YouTube video said like $30-$40 ... That's a big difference. I didn't know about the antennas though ... Ouch!
I saw the Orqas, someone was comparing the HDO2, Orqa and DJI on a YouTube video.

I'm actually running a Realacc RX5808 receiver with Achilles firmware which cost ~$60 but I probably wouldn't go a lot cheaper than that and I'm now looking to upgrade. There is the Eachine Pro58 module which is probably the cheapest diversity module you can get (and is also capable of running the Achilles firmware) but updating the firmware is a hassle because it has no native built in USB port. If you are getting premium goggles like the the HDO2's or Orqa's then you would do well to get one of the premium modules as well otherwise it is like putting steel rims on your Ferrari  

The question you now need to ask yourself is that if you are going to end up spending ~$650+ on a pair of goggles, a decent receiver module, and decent antennas so you that can look at an image which is like looking at a something through muddy water, then why wouldn't you just go for digital goggles and have that nice crisp HD image for a bit more money? Of course you then need to consider your actual build as well because you would need to replace at least some of the stuff you already have and your frame would need to accommodate a DJI Air Unit or a Caddx Vista Unit.

See how fast things have moved on since 2017.

If you are only just starting out in FPV and haven't even built your first quad yet then analogue almost seems to be going in the wrong direction, unless of course you are on a budget, but if you are now talking about spending $500+ on goggles then I guess you aren't.

This is the way I see it. If you just want to try FPV to see how it is and if you really like it, continue building the 3 year old kit that you currently have and get a cheap pair of goggles like the EV800D knowing that you haven't spent a lot of money on them and they come with everything you need including the receiver module for $100. Then after that maybe look to go the HD route and build another quad with modern electronics and all the HD gear.

Sorry for putting you in this dilemma, but you did ask, and now is the time to choose analogue or digital before you end up spend too much wasted money.

Did anyone ever tell you that this hobby is a complete money pit 

I know my parts are dated, but they are a little pass the window for returning parts so I just want to have fun with what I got for now. Seeing that this is my first drone, I am bound to crash a few times and will have to replace parts. That is when I will get more current parts. Any parts that I do have to get now to get up into the air, I do want to be up on technology so I don't have to replace them again real soon though.
Yep ... Like almost all hobbies, it can be a real money pit ... I used to be into RC Cars.
 
Can you guys take a look at the attached schematic I made and let me know if I have everything wired correctly or if I should do something different?
 
Also, do you guys recommend a GPS and Compass?

Looks correct. Although I could not make out the actual order of the signal wires. You didn't wire the S. Port telemetry. You don't have to though.

You could also get rid of the PDB, your Omnibus is capable of taking up to 4S. Wire the pigtail to the 4in1. Run a small gauge wires from 4in1 to FC for power. You can then wire both the camera and VTX to J6 and J7. Anyways, just a thought if you don't have stack space.

(12-Jul-2020, 05:17 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: Looks correct. Although I could not make out the actual order of the signal wires. You didn't wire the S. Port telemetry. You don't have to though.

You could also get rid of the PDB, your Omnibus is capable of taking up to 4S. Wire the pigtail to the 4in1. Run a small gauge wires from 4in1 to FC for power. You can then wire both the camera and VTX to J6 and J7. Anyways, just a thought if you don't have stack space.

Thanks.
How would I go about wiring the S.Port telemetry?
What is S.Port telemetry by the way?

(12-Jul-2020, 05:28 PM)Skamp284 Wrote: Thanks.
How would I go about wiring the S.Port telemetry?
What is S.Port telemetry by the way?

Maybe I will take back my comment about S. Port telemetry. I always dread helping someone with an Omnibus because there is so many versions and pin changes, no one can keep up. On top of that clones that do not actually follow any particular design. You are pulling your hair out trying to guess pins and firmware and inverter. Just have a read below.

https://github.com/betaflight/betaflight...-OMNIBUSF4

Anyway, if you are correct about your FC, then please verify the following for me.

You are using OMNIBUSF4SD firmware.
The SBUS is on UART6 and not UART 1.

So basically wire up SBUS and verified that everything is working.

The easiest way (I am not going to mention other ways) to get S. Port is to use UART6 TX and soft serial. Once you have SBUS working, post your dump file. And I or someone else can give you the CLI commands to map TX6 to soft serial and turn on S. Port telemetry.

(12-Jul-2020, 06:25 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: Maybe I will take back my comment about S. Port telemetry. I always dread helping someone with an Omnibus because there is so many versions and pin changes, no one can keep up. On top of that clones that do not actually follow any particular design. You are pulling your hair out trying to guess pins and firmware and inverter. Just have a read below.

https://github.com/betaflight/betaflight...-OMNIBUSF4

Anyway, if you are correct about your FC, then please verify the following for me.

You are using OMNIBUSF4SD firmware.
The SBUS is on UART6 and not UART 1.

So basically wire up SBUS and verified that everything is working.

The easiest way (I am not going to mention other ways) to get S. Port is to use UART6 TX and soft serial. Once you have SBUS working, post your dump file. And I or someone else can give you the CLI commands to map TX6 to soft serial and turn on S. Port telemetry.

I got a soldering iron today, I will start wiring up everything and try to get the SBUS working and post a dump file .

Is there a step by stop tutorial that shows how to link my Taranis Q X7 with VelociDrone. I finally go my Taranis connected to VelociDrone but I am only crashing. I think I have the wrong assignments to the sticks. Thats why I am trying to find a tutorial, so I can verify the common stick assignments.

I never update my firmware on my Taranis, should I do so?

Thanks

try this one

(14-Jul-2020, 11:57 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: try this one

Thanks. It was his video I was following but a more recent one with a different radio.

I think I have the radio connected to the simulator correctly now, but man is it difficult to fly.

I'll get it eventually.

I can not seem to figure out how to mount my Eachine 1000TVL camera on my Liasam LS-210 frame. I have been looking online for a tutorial and can not find one either. All the builds that I find seem to more show detail of the wiring than the mount of the camera.