(11-Apr-2024, 07:41 AM)BadRaven Wrote: Tattu?  I'm not surprised!     YMMV, but them and their previous incarnation Gens-Ace have in my group been generically poor to abysmal.

That's odd. I consider Tattu to be the best most reliable brand of LiPo and it's the only brand I buy unless I have no other choice. Usually more expensive than other brands but I believe that you generally get what you pay for in life. I did once get one with a dead cell but the vendor promptly replaced it. All my others have been ultra reliable and I even have some 5 year old 4S packs that are still fine.

(11-Apr-2024, 10:09 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: That's odd. I consider Tattu to be the best most reliable brand of LiPo and it's the only brand I buy unless I have no other choice. Usually more expensive than other brands but I believe that you generally get what you pay for in life. I did once get one with a dead cell but the vendor promptly replaced it. All my others have been ultra reliable and I even have some 5 year old 4S packs that are still fine.

Are your Tattu packs from their R-line or regular model? Was thinking to give Tattus's a try and was wondering if they were worth the extra cost.

(11-Apr-2024, 02:37 PM)mstc Wrote: Are your Tattu packs from their R-line or regular model? Was thinking to give Tattus's a try and was wondering if they were worth the extra cost.

I have some of the regular Tattu's (not R-line), and have had no problems at all with them. I am guessing they are at least a couple of years old.

I have tried a handful of companies and for me, I have found the GNB's to be the most reliable. I have not had one fail or even start bloating (the same for my Tattu's). I keep all my batteries at storage voltage and try to land where the cell voltage comes back up to at least 3.5 volts per cell. If it ends up lower than that, I get it on the charger right away...

(11-Apr-2024, 07:41 AM)BadRaven Wrote: >>Tattu?  I'm not surprised!     YMMV, but them and their previous incarnation Gens-Ace have in my group been generically poor to abysmal.<<

So far I am not brand specific. I just buy whatever brand from which ever vendor that is willing to ship to Hawaii.

>>HOWEVER, a pack that has been taken down too far for a charger to re-charge (safety lockout) can usually be brought back. Whether its worth it is down to time available, replacement availability, funds, etc, etc, don't judge!    <<

Yes, for a larger and more expensive pack I may consider. For the small 450 mah packs I just replace them.

>>An an example, I have a Turnigy 1600mAh 3S that was trapped in the top of a large Oak for over a month in the weather still connected to the planes electronics. When finally recovered it had under a volt per cell.<<

Yeah I revived a few packs that was stuck in the trees for months.

(11-Apr-2024, 02:37 PM)mstc Wrote: Are your Tattu packs from their R-line or regular model? Was thinking to give Tattus's a try and was wondering if they were worth the extra cost.

I try to get the R-Line's if possible but I have non R-Lines as well. My current stash of 8x 450mAh 2S and 10x 1550mAh 4S LiPos are non R-Line versions while my current stash of 8x 550mAh 3S and 10x 1300mAh 6S LiPos are from the R-Line range. I also have a load of 300mAh 1S GNB LiPos. Maybe I just got really lucky with all the Tattu LiPos I bought over the past 5 years.

I get about 3 +/- minutes of fly time on my Meteor 65S with 380 mAh battery.

I have four Tattu 3S 450's and they are brilliant, but they are £10 each.  On sales you can pick up two CNHL 3S 450's for a lot less.  Even non sales, you can get them for a bit over £11.  Are they as good, no, If I get 6 minutes of flight on the Tattu, I get 4-5 on the CNHL, but that's 2x that, so I actually get double that for the same price.  In many ways it kind of depends on whether you can deal with the hassle of charging more packs.  I have my charging down to an art, with four SkyRC e3 balance chargers, so that (for me) is about 4 packs every 20 mins, even less on the 2S packs.  I also have a couple of the e455 that do 2-4S and if I bring them online, that's around 12-18 packs an hour.

For 1S, lol, I just don't do it now.  I don't find it a useful size.  2S is the base level for me and 75mm is the smallest I build. At 2S/75mm you can fly, have power and it will work both indoors and outdoors with no extra configuration.  I have 1S parts and motors, but have no interest in them all that much, but did see an interesting YT vid that Kabab did three years back that might peak enough interest to try and replicate what he did, but on Li-ion.  I have some ideas for making it work better.



But for 1S those Dogcom packs are much better than the others I've bought.  They take longer before they sag out and tons of power on tap compared to the BFPV packs.  I also picked them up on sales at about £1 per pack, so got a lot of them, like 20 or something like that, probably half of them have never been charged so far. They will go to my nephew most likely.

Ok this test is based on 6S packs, but give a good comparison with Tattu R-Line, GNB, CNHL, Dogcom, and "The FPV".







https://youtu.be/vBi3B59NmZ0?t=1




But if you are interested in 1S packs, here's that comparison.



https://youtu.be/GIwe3eKpifA?t=428

Is there anyway I can check the firmware for the speed controllers on the Meteor65 Pro? The spec is a bit hazy. It may already have BlueJay on the ESCs but I am not sure.

Go to esc-configurator, connect to the FC using USB but load esc-configurator instead of Betaflight. plug in a Lipo and hit read esc's, next screen should tell you if they have Bluejay on or BLHeli.

(12-Apr-2024, 08:30 PM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: Go to esc-configurator, connect to the FC using USB but load esc-configurator instead of Betaflight.  plug in a Lipo and hit read esc's, next screen should tell you if they have Bluejay on or BLHeli.

Thank you. I will do that. I have to go to a computer running on Chrome now.

Edit: I managed. I downloaded the ESC-Configurator to the laptop instead of flashing online. Apparently the ESC's were running Blue Jay. There is one later version so I updated them anyway. Funny thing is that when I flash the motor direction got messed up. I had to get back to BetaFlight to try and figure out which way the motors supposed to turn. I did and I test hovered it.

Interesting side note. I ran a fan blowing air on the quad to cool the FC and VTX while the battery is plugged in. The fan air is so powerful it was a bit hard to figure out if the motors were spinning correctly and air was coming out the bottom of the quad. I have a hard time seeing which way the props spin.

Don't upgrade to 0.20.0, if you do you run the risk of tanking the ESC's. If you have upgraded to 0.20, downgrade to 0.19.2 before you fly it.

https://esc-configurator.com/ Wrote:Attention Bluejay users!
If you are still on 0.20.0, please downgrade to 0.19.2 - there have been issues with stall detection and motor protection which might result in broken ESCs and/or motors.

You can spin motors in esc configurator. It's on the first screen before you read the ESC's. i usually stick a piece of tape on the shaft, then spin them up one by one, then I set direction after reading the ESC's, depending on whether i'm using props in or out. i never set it in betaflight because someone warned me that sometimes it doesn't work, so i always do direction changes at the ESC level.

(13-Apr-2024, 12:14 AM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: Don't upgrade to 0.20.0, if you do you run the risk of tanking the ESC's.  If you have upgraded to 0.20, downgrade to 0.19.2 before you fly it.


You can spin motors in esc configurator.  It's on the first screen before you read the ESC's.  i usually stick a piece of tape on the shaft, then spin them up one by one, then I set direction after reading the ESC's, depending on whether i'm using props in or out.  i never set it in betaflight because someone warned me that sometimes it doesn't work, so i always do direction changes at the ESC level.

Thanks, I am on 0.19. There was no 0.20 when I flashed.

The problem with HD in a 65mm quad is weight. HD hardware is heavier than analog. With a 65mm quad that little bit of extra weight can really hurt flight times and flight performance. I have tried this and always go back to analog for 65mm.

Even 75mm quads are affected by the extra weight.

For HD hardware, in my opinion you want to go no smaller than 85mm and 2S power.

I like analog because I can tinker.

Yesterday some extra canopies showed up so I had to tinker.



That's a Foxeer Nano Razer. The lens is rather big but it did fit. I had to grind away the canopy a little bit. The VTX had a tiny connector but the solder pads on the bottom are not too small. So I soldered the wires.

I can't really tell if the camera is that much better but it did seem a little better than the original BetaFPV camera (I think it is an 03 something). Now that I have the wire soldered I can pretty much swap different nano cameras. Now that is interesting.

No it does not improve flight time. It is still only 3 minutes. However what else do I do with time on my hands.