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Bearing replacement
#1
Hi,

Sorry to ask again!

I am trying to replace the bearings on my emax rs2205s motor with a dead bearing, but I can't seem to get it out using my allenkey and a hammer. I know to stay away from the small lip but the bearing just won't move. Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks
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#2
There is a method were you insert a wire or a clip on the center of the bearing and from the other bearing side you and put a screw driver thru that will catch the center of the other bearing but it will not go thru because of that clip. Then you can hammer it safely and the force will be evenly applied. I don't know if it is easy to understand, I'll try to find the video for you.
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#3
(12-Jun-2020, 10:02 PM)Maiden Flight Wrote: There is a method were you insert a wire or a clip on the center of the bearing and from the other bearing side you and put a screw driver thru that will catch the center of the other bearing but it will not go thru because of that clip. Then you can hammer it safely and the force will be evenly applied. I don't know if it is easy to understand, I'll try to find the video for you.

Thank you for your response. I am sorry but I don't understand what you mean Sad

Maybe should I just buy some punches and see if that works?
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#4
Check this
[-] The following 2 users Like Maiden Flight's post:
  • Ben975, sloscotty
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#5
(12-Jun-2020, 10:10 PM)Maiden Flight Wrote: Check this

WOW THANK YOU SO MUCH this worked. Damn the rs2205s bearings are SO TIGHT in place I needed to full on slam them out on a work bench 10 times. Now I have the fun of attempting to remove the other with a huge Allen key. Do you have a personal trick to stop the magnets and windings from being damaged when punching out the top bearing?
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#6
Good job Smile Yes the bearings have some tight tolerances. Usually the other bearing will come easier if you use a wider tool, close to the diameter of the bearing and then just invert the hammering using your table or the floor, grabing the motor by the base like when you are tightening a prop. If it is really stuck maybe you can try applying some heat. I've never done it myself but it can help.
[-] The following 1 user Likes Maiden Flight's post:
  • Ben975
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#7
(12-Jun-2020, 11:12 PM)Maiden Flight Wrote: Good job Smile Yes the bearings have some tight tolerances. Usually the other bearing will come easier if you use a wider tool, close to the diameter of the bearing and then just invert the hammering using your table or the floor, grabing the motor by the base like when you are tightening a prop. If it is really stuck maybe you can try applying some heat. I've never done it myself but it can help.
Never thought I would complain about quality motors ??

I'll try to get the other one out tomorrow and pray it works. If not I will do it properly and get myself a cheap punch. Thanks Smile
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#8
A punch is always a nice tool to have on your toolset. Wink You'll take it out easily, good luck. With the new bearing the motor will spin like new. Smile
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#9
(12-Jun-2020, 11:37 PM)Maiden Flight Wrote: A punch is always a nice tool to have on your toolset. Wink You'll take it out easily, good luck. With the new bearing the motor will spin like new. Smile

I mean the bearing isn't bad yet it's just on its way out. I had a bad bearing like this 2 years ago let it be thinking oh it still flies it can't do any harm!

Failed in mid flight and caused huge damage to my quad. Learnt my lesson ??
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#10
If somehow the grease of the bearing get out, the lifespan of the bearing decreases rapidly. It will produce a lot of friction and heat. Those bearing are sealed but of course they wear out. The bearing replacing is a bit of a hassle because of c-clips or stuck screws but from your experience it's better to do that then having it fail in mid air. Thanks for your feedback. I'll check mine regularly also Smile
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#11
(13-Jun-2020, 12:46 PM)Maiden Flight Wrote: If somehow the grease of the bearing get out, the lifespan of the bearing decreases rapidly. It will produce a lot of friction and heat. Those bearing are sealed but of course they wear out. The bearing replacing is a bit of a hassle because of c-clips or stuck screws but from your experience it's better to do that then having it fail in mid air. Thanks for your feedback. I'll check mine regularly also Smile

The second one is completely stuck it just won't come out. I also noticed when I took the motor apart that there was a lot of mud and a bit of corrosion on the inside. I might just replace the whole motor but do u have any tips for the last stuck bearing ??

This is such a hassle I'm sorry!

I have a feeling this one isn't coming out any time soon Sad

Edit: I just had a look inside the windings. They are really messed up which would explain the erratic twitching and behaviour of that motor which lead me to want to replace the bearing. I ordered some punched and this will be my practice motor to see if I can eventually get this stupid bearing out!
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#12
Is your punch the same diameter (very slightly smaller actually) than the bearing? This is the best fit because then there is a better chance of you banging the bearing out square to the hole and not at an angle that will cause it to skew and wedge itself harder in the hole.

Using heat is another method but with windings and the stator in close proximity you may just end up doing damage to those critical parts with direct heat. Maybe sticking it in the oven at something like 80°C for 30-60 minutes (i.e. uniform indirect heating of the whole thing) might expand the metal parts enough to allow you to bash it out. That might be worth a try.
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#13
(13-Jun-2020, 02:15 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Is your punch the same diameter (very slightly smaller actually) than the bearing? This is the best fit because then there is a better chance of you banging the bearing out square to the hole and not at an angle that will cause it to skew and wedge itself harder in the hole.

Using heat is another method but with windings and the stator in close proximity you may just end up doing damage to those critical parts with direct heat. Maybe sticking it in the oven at something like 80°C for 30-60 minutes (i.e. uniform indirect heating of the whole thing) might expand the metal parts enough to allow you to bash it out. That might be worth a try.

I just ordered a bunch of punches to see if that works. I think it's just typical emax I have another dead rs2205s somwhere where an esc fried it so I can try different methods on that one and see which works. This current emax motor is 4 years old and I have a spare so I might as well replace it entirely but I NEED to get this bearing out for satisfaction and I have some old escs so hey maybe build a plane?

I actually ended up ordering a 2.3mm, 3.2mm and a 4mm punch. I will try them all.
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#14
The EMAX RS2205S motors are generally bullet proof. I've been running a set on my 5" quad for over 18 months and have done in excess of 250 flights with them. They still feel and sound like they are brand new.

If yours have lasted 4 years then I think you probably got your moneys worth out of them, so I wouldn't be unhappy about having to replace the whole motor after that period of use Smile
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#15
(13-Jun-2020, 02:37 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: The EMAX RS2205S motors are generally bullet proof. I've been running a set on my 5" quad for over 18 months and have done in excess of 250 flights with them. They still feel and sound like they are brand new.

If yours have lasted 4 years then I think you probably got your moneys worth out of them, so I wouldn't be unhappy about having to replace the whole motor after that period of use Smile
Yup ?? have fun trying to remove a bearing though they don't budge! Warning though if the bearing sounds dodgy they will fail shortly after from personal experience!

I just got another set of emax rs 1408 motors for my 3" build as I enjoyed the rs2205s so much!
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