I've replaced the board on my TinyHawk 2 Freestyle twice, and it needs yet another one. These don't seem to take crashes very well, winter doesn't help.

They are not what I would consider inexpensive. For their size, a 20x20 stack is comparable in price it seems.

Is there an FC/AIO from a different manufacturer that could work? Stay 1-2s or go larger? Could I retrofit my Emax 200mw VTX, my Nano 2 cam?

I really don't want to buy yet another $60 Emax TH2 board, as fragile as they seem. I either need to upgrade, or...not crash.

All (2) of my quads are broken, please help! lol

Thanks!

As far as I know, there is no alternative. You can likely get a Betafpv whoop type FC to fit with some hackery. It has been discussed before here without much of a solution.

https://intofpv.com/t-replacement-fc-esc...-freestyle

I have looked, tried different aio boards..I even tried flipping the tinyhawk frame upside down. Then thought about swapping to another frame..motor screws don’t match.. the new babyhawkII looks like it has a standard 16x16 and standard motors.. I haven’t been in the hobby long but it seems like e-max pays attention to the customer issues..

Hi JSchubz,

You could make a simple adapter plate to mount a different FC. If I was going to do that, I would use a 26x26 whoop AIO board since the EMAX Tinyhawk Freestyle has short standoff columns; the lower height of the 26x26 AIO will likely fit.  {after all, the FC that EMAX used in the Freestyle is actually a whoop board that they originally put in their whoop quad}

In considering any stack, even a 16x16, the standoff columns will likely need to be replaced with 20mm ones. Next, the camera braces will no longer fit, so you would need a different camera mount. Not that it is a big deal, just something else to do. Personally, I would go with the Armattan Tadpole Cam Braces which are 20mm in height.

You might also consider buying a GEPRC Phantom analog version.

Anyway, just my thoughts 

(18-Mar-2021, 01:52 PM)Rob Axel Wrote: I have looked, tried different aio boards..I even tried flipping the tinyhawk frame upside down. Then thought about swapping to another frame..motor screws don’t match.. the new babyhawkII looks like it has a standard 16x16 and standard motors.. I haven’t been in the hobby long but it seems like e-max pays attention to the customer issues..

It does seem that Emax has some proprietary stuff. Non standard size motor holes, also? Their 0803 and 1103 are both oddballs, aren't they?

I can fabricate to make things fit, and I solder pretty well, but quadcopter electronics selection are not my specialty. I've been looking at tiny whoop aio's, but no clue what could fit. Is the Emax considered a 25x25? Could a 16x16 fit, probably silly question, but, I'm desperate. Weather is getting nice and I'm out of quads. ☹️

IFlyRotors, you must have been typing the same time as me. Thanks for the tips, I will look into those. I like that aluminum cam mount! Yes, the TH2 and TH2F both use the same boards. While I have conformal coated them, would "potting" them help? I know..just don't crash....

I'm looking at the Flywoo F411 V2.1 13A 16x16 stack. It's like 40 bucks

I assume IF I could make that fit, I could reuse my 200mw vtx and Nano 2 camera, just solder accordingly?

It's listed at 22x23mm, and 2.3 grams. Considering the TH2 AIO is 35x50, the length and width is fine, but the height of the F411 stack isn't listed. Taller standoffs, different cam mount, I'm fine with that, I just want the dang thing to fly again!

They say this stack is for 2-4S. I can't imagine the TH2F on 3-4S. I think it's safe to say this esc should last forever on just 2S, correct?

Rob, what other boards have you tried? Tiny Whoop size?

Hi JSchubz,

I would suggest the JHEMCU F411 AIO Pro 25A whoop format (26x26) board for 37 US dollars. This is a very good little FC and is cost effective; it has a good reputation, and I have used it in several builds.

So far, I have not had good success with the Flywoo 16x16 stack. I have an XBot 3 that had that stack in it; it went out after only a few flights. Next, I bought that stack for a build, but it didn't even make it through the build; I don't know why. Although I am willing to try it again, I am very cautious about using it. 

The Tinyhawk Freestyle 2 frame is not designed for either so an adapter plate will likely be needed regardless of what you choose.

In digging through YouTube, I found someone used a HGLRC Zues F4 15A, 20x20



Is that anybody here? Lol

(18-Mar-2021, 07:33 PM)iFly4rotors Wrote: Hi JSchubz,

I would suggest the JHEMCU F411 AIO Pro 25A whoop format (26x26) board for 37 US dollars. This is a very good little FC and is cost effective; it has a good reputation, and I have used it in several builds.

So far, I have not had good success with the Flywoo 16x16 stack. I have an XBot 3 that had that stack in it; it went out after only a few flights. Next, I bought that stack for a build, but it didn't even make it through the build; I don't know why. Although I am willing to try it again, I am very cautious about using it. 

The Tinyhawk Freestyle 2 frame is not designed for either so an adapter plate will likely be needed regardless of what you choose.

I have several JHEMCU AIO boards. FET died on one, but I replaced it.

Unless its a tiny whoop, I strongly urge not to use those cheap 12A/20A AIO. Several failed on me before I learned my lesson.

Correction:  the board that I have in the Katana-LR4 is the 30A version; an original {older} version before the  "Pro":  JHEMCU F411 AIO 30A.  On this build, I am running the Brotherhobby 1504.5 3950 Kv motors with HQProp T4x2.5 bi-blade props. Oh yeah, I also have a 1000 uf 35 volt capacitor attached. I always run a pretty large cap to handle and voltage spikes or shortages. So far, I haven't burnt a FET on anything.

The FC version that I used is the older original version in 30A. I don't think you can buy the older versions any more. It looks like JHEMCU now has upgraded "Pro" versions of these boards. Consider, unless it was the newer "Pro" version that burnt a FET, it is NOT a fair comparison.  

I have also used the JHEMCU GHF-405 AIO 25A with NO issues. The 405 is a different processor and has more UARTs.

Another board that I like is the HIFIONRC F7 AIO 2-4S Whoop w 25A ESC which I have in the Phantom-4X seems to have NO issues.

I really like the HIFIONRC F7 board and believe it to be a better overall value, but it does cost a little more.

There are plenty of options for 26x26 whoop boards out there. If you want to go bold, use the iFlight BEAST 55A which will pull a 5 inch. Yeah, it is expensive, but just shows that you have all kinds of options in the 26x26 format.

Also, ALWAYS run a decent capacitor. If I was rebuilding a Tinyhawk Freestyle, I would certainly use a bigger capacitor than the original even with the original FC board. You know, that might be the issue. If you are burning things up,  the capacitor might be too small to handle the voltage spikes.   Keep in mind that you want the voltage rating of the cap to be larger than battery voltage in order to "soak" up spikes.

Thank you all for the great information! I am considering all the options, but, I am still a relative newb, and a little overwhelmed at that.

I was looking at the wiring diagrams, it seems to make sense, mostly.

It seems some of these boards have have the receiver built in, (SPI?) I have a TS16S, but no Crossfire Module, YET. I think it does Rxsr, XM+, etc, but I need a module for 900mhz, for R9 or CRSF.

Another newb question, can I reuse my Emax VTX, or at least untill I get something better? How would I connect that, I think there's 4 tiny pins stacking it to the FC.

The Emax is $60, I don't mind spending money, on something decent, as long as it's reliable. Seems I can get a F405 or even F7 for less, and those are 20-35+ amp, not...5.

That F7 would be nice, to be able to add GPS and..LED's? I'm still learning, I know F7 has more Uarts than F4 but that's still kinda foreign to me

You mean, I could actually turtle mode without frying anything? Crashes, snow, and turtle mode seem to kill things for me. I have more money in replacement AIOs than I do quads

These seem to be rated anywhere from 2-6S, but some are saying 2S isn't enough for some of the boards? I'm happy with 2S I can't imagine a 4S or even 3S TH2 Freestyle...holy crap, its still on 2.5 Avan Rush'.

I don't have a 3d printer, I see in that vid, he just drilled different holes. He did the same for using non Emax motors. I'm still using the 1103 7000kv, that may be another upgrade, if needed or recommended.

Any more votes on the HIFIONRC F7? Reviews look very good, extra Uarts, big, side solder pads, but no RX or Blackbox. I saw in a review, someone put one in a TinyHawk...!!

I would like help with a "what is absolutely everything I need", shopping list, please. Board, cap, wires, can I reuse my vtx? Looks like I'll also need an RX, 2.4 for now.

Thanks again, y'all are very helpful, and... patient

These would be my choices:

FC:   HIFIONRC F7 AIO 2-4S Whoop w 25A ESC       >>>>   Wiring Diagram
VTX:  Flywoo Goku VTX625  .................................. You might be able to use the Tinyhawk VTX, but I don't have a wiring diagram.
Capacitor:  I would use at least a 470 uf 35 volt... I might use a larger one depending on space and where I mount it.
RX:   FrSky XM+  (the ACCST version)   .... this will work with multi-protocol transmitters. I generally heat shrink it and use zip ties.

Fabricate a mount plate from thin plastic...old alcohol bottle or other light weight plastic. You don't need a 3D printer, just a drill and a knife.
Here is Pic of a plastic mount I made to hold a GPS unit.

Keep the motors, they will be fine and they fit the frame. 

Note: the Goku VTX625 has multiple mounting options and break away tabs. It can be mounted in a variety of positions...on top the FC...or use one of the mounting holes and zip tie or use it to mount to a stand off column. 

There are pictures of how I mount things in my various builds...My Build Index.

You can reuse the vtx.. I have a box of tiny hawk FCs and 25w vtxs ... I use them for testing .. don’t nickel and dime yourself .. a eachine nano is $14 and it goes to 400w... my tinyhawk freestyle has gone through hell.. I think the only original part is the battery strap..
Just fly, crash, fix, repeat...
me, I love my tinyhawks... yes, they have “issues” sometimes, but I have had worst issues with other FCs and components from other companies ..
The QC in China isn’t the greatest... THAT is a hard pill to swallow when u look at these parts at 50+$ a pop..
You will crash, and replace parts...there’s a reason u don’t see these in Walmart

IFlyRotors, thank you!! I follow a few of your builds. You seem extremely detail oriented, I appreciate that.

I found the wiring diagram for the VTX, but, I didn't realize they were that inexpensive. Seems a lot of BS for a 200mw.

Rob, you're probably right, I want it done right, but I want it NOW! Lol

No, really, I do..I'm out of quads.

Starting my shopping cart...now.

Hi JSchubz, Thanks. 

After my EMAX Tinyhawk Freestyle {which I still fly...still original parts, haven't had to replace anything yet}, I bought a GEPRC Phantom. I lost the first one, bought another one, and have built a "clone". The Phantom has more standard components; 4 bolt motors, XM+, a 16x16 stack, but the frame also has mounting for 26x26 whoop boards. All of my builds that begin with "Phantom" use the GEPRC Phantom frame.

I would still repair the THF, but would consider getting a GEPRC Phantom {yeah, you can buy it cheaper than you can build it}, then consider doing a custom build. That way you would be able to fly while tinkering with the build or repairing a downed quad. 

Interestingly, I have a Tinyhawk Freestyle frame that I picked up when I bought the quad just in case I broke the frame. So, now I am thinking about doing a build with that frame and a whoop FC. I would need to get motors or use adapters. Now that is a thought.   ...small arm extensions and 3 inch props