From what I've read and seen on YT they are exceptionally hard to tune and generally a real PITA. It seems every ICM gyro has been that way. My guess is they use them because they are cheap and available. I prefer the BM270 and MPU (6000/6500) based gyros. I've had no issues with them.

I don't what the solution is. I saw a video of a guy who bought a BNF with one from when they first came out, like 6-7 months back and he sold it in the end as he couldn't work with it or tune out the problems. Can you get gyro info from blackbox, if so could you do a 2 minute flight around the house and compare to something with BMI270.

Other thing, could you rip it out and put it on a bigger heavier quad, maybe a 2.5-3" light frame with whatever spare motors you have that will work with a 12A esc and that size. then grab blackbox for a flight around the house and see if it handles any better. I mean I can't see why it would be an issue specific to a whoop, but if you can test it, I would. in the end it adds to possible evidence if you need to send it back to HM for replacement.

I just noticed that the other almost identical quad (same FC and frame) has a capacitor on the xt30 lead. It dosen't have the same gyro but I think I will try adding a cap to see if that helps before attacking (learning) tuning.

I put a 330uf 16V cap on my Meteor85 after I got it and that fixed some of the drift issue I had on mine, but not all, but it wasn't noticeable unless hovering. Something similar for you might work.

(17-Dec-2023, 11:08 PM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: I put a 330uf 16V cap on my Meteor85 after I got it and that fixed some of the drift issue I had on mine, but not all, but it wasn't noticeable unless hovering.  Something similar for you might work.

I have a bag of 470uF 16v caps, I'll try one of those... The rest I have are 330uf 25v and 220uf 25v.

I just tried it with the cap soldered directly to the power input of the FC with no change at all (not pretty but it was a test).

It looks like I am going to have to learn how to tune.

   

After much digging on the net and many discussions about twitching motors (99% of them were for bad motor or esc which is not my problem) I found that the preset I used had Dynamic Idle at 0. I tried 20 and 28 with no change. Then I changed the Idle from 5.5 to 8 and all motors are spinning fine now. I am guessing that there is a slight difference between the motors and that was why two were spinning ok on the previous settings.

Anyway, had the first flights and got over seven and a half minutes of mostly laid back flying on a 2S 450mAh RDQ battery...

Glad you found out what was wrong with it and documented it for the next poor soul that has a similar problem.

I like your photos. What I like about the URUAV UR85/UR85HD 85mm frame is that it appears that the FC posts are high enough above the duct plane that big FCs (like your X12) fit onto it without interference. No need to cut or shave structure.

Problem is, the URUAV UR85/UR85HD 85mm frame appears to be out of production and out of stock anywhere, even in CN.

Does anybody know a source with it in stock?

If I want to do any future builds for 85mm, I guess I will have to get the Mobula 8 frame since the X12 fits down into the frame.

(28-Dec-2023, 05:46 PM)segler999 Wrote: I like your photos.  What I like about the URUAV UR85/UR85HD 85mm frame is that it appears that the FC posts are high enough above the duct plane that big FCs (like your X12) fit onto it without interference.  No need to cut or shave structure.

Problem is, the URUAV UR85/UR85HD 85mm frame appears to be out of production and out of stock anywhere, even in CN.

Does anybody know a source with it in stock?

If I want to do any future builds for 85mm, I guess I will have to get the Mobula 8 frame since the X12 fits down into the frame.

I really like this frame. I stocked up way back as then the only two places that had them were Banggood and Ali Express. I have four of the frames and builds on all of them. This was the fourth build.

As for altering the frame, where the camera plugs into the FC, I had to cut a notch in the frame or the jack is pushing against the frame putting the FC in direct contact with it. You can sort of see it in the original pic of it sitting on the scale.

Here are the four frames built out. Two of them are 1S, and two are 2S.